Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 27th Jul 2018 - Cinderella Crag | ||||||
Pitt Street Wall | ||||||
21 23 | ★★★ Unchained | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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19 | ★ Wee Bean | 12m | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★★ Django | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
real mix.
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Sat 26th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Boganville Right Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Mr Ed | 14m, 6 | Average | |||
Not sandy now. Nothing of note but surprisingly pumpy.
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21 | ★★ The Original Bogan | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Couple of cool moves, worth the extension.
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Sat 26th May 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Boganville Left Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Boganville | 28m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
I thought the traverse was a bit tricky and could do with a brush. Not much to remember after that.
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22 | ★★ Yobbo Cow Bait | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Fun start and then long ramble to the chains. Good warmup.
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22 | ★ Fluffy Dice | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Start wasn't horrible with some of the deepest jugs known to man. More interesting top 2/3 than it's left neighbours with a feature, more overhang and some pretty crazy rock.
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Sun 29th Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Bunker | ||||||
19 | ★ Blackall Bandits | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves down low, bit more goey than expected. Mantel over the bolt for better value - not any harder than the escape out right and cleaner. Let down by a forgettable top half. Don't think we were on Dr Benway.
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21 | ★★ BMATC | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely sequency climbing. Bit of a pump going by the end.
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21 | ★★ Keanu Roovs | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool off balance crack to cut-loose roof and a couple more moves over the lip,
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Sun 22nd Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area | ||||||
19 20 | ★★ Randy Rabbit Ridge | 280m, 99 | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Az. Beautiful and smooth day out. Beat the Chinese party of 10 by 5 minutes Chipped but better? Cleaned up nicely. Decent climbing on the 1st 2.5 pitches and then some nice positions to the top.
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Fri 26th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Bunker | ||||||
19 | Bug Powder Direct | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very engaging it's entire length.
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19 | Sand Miner | 15m | Average | |||
Some interesting moves and rock.
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Fri 5th Jan 2018 - Namphapayai Camp | ||||||
Bat Cave Wall | ||||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Emmenez-moi | 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Stunning climbing, beautiful rock, massive hueco, scoops, open hand pinches and slopes, spaced older bolts, deep layers of dust, bat shit, insecure, in a dark cave you can see out the top of, waves of bats pouring out on dusk, 60m rope stretcher. Get on it!
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5+ | ★ Ratatouille | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sharp but won't polish.
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4+ | Fourth World | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sharpish but won't poliah
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Wed 3rd Jan 2018 - Namphapayai Camp | ||||||
River Wall | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Sweet Lip | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
punchy polished start. Doesn't go where you wish. Fun finish. Tad short.
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6c | ★★★ You are a Legend | 26m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Technique to pump.
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6a | ★★ On the Rock | 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep super fun
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6a+ | ★★ Mineral Mystic | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep super fun
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6b+ | ★★ The Most ... of the World | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun roof crankin'
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4+ | ★ Tee Rek Soo Soo | 11m, 4 | Average | |||
polish
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5+ | ★ Hin Tok | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
polish
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6a | ★ Sadao | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
slightly less polish
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6b+ | ★★ Café Bolan (Cafe Bolan) | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
steep rad trad on bolts.
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Sun 24th Dec 2017 - Bukit Takun | ||||||
Ana's Garden | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Flacid | 70m, 24 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Jams!!! Stunning rock, cool moves and a punchy jamming 3d crux.
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Sun 24th Dec 2017 - Bukit Takun | ||||||
Battle Field | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Aaron Schwarzenegger | 24m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stalactite hugging. Slick off the ground and super punchy.
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Sat 7th Oct 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Little River | ||||||
20 22 | ★ Glue Tube Sensation | 30m, 15 | ★ Good | |||
More interesting slab than I was expecting. Great middle and jugs finish.
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22 | ★★ Drone Powder | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Cool slabbing to boulder crux.
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Sun 21st May 2017 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Vox Populi Wall | ||||||
18 20 | ★★ Three and a Half Thousand | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
2nd every 7 year repeat. New years day '02 comment was 'committing crux'. Now just another sport climb. 1 cool slopey (for both hands and feet) move. Very generous at 20.
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18 20 | ★★ Iclimb - with Jason | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A couple of really fun lay awayish moves with just enough holds and some interesting positions. Easy to get suckered straight up rather than going out left. More sustained than 3.5 thousand. 20 is very generous.
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17 | ★ The Red Room - with Jason | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some burl and then stunning balancy moves with just enough coming to hand when you need it. One of the best routes here. I thought more like 19. Felt harder than anything on Vox Populi.
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Sun 21st May 2017 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
The Main Cave | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Diagonal du Fou | 15m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
20 year repeat. Start was about as devious as I remembered. Top was pretty cruisy, every hold a jug, so I must've gotten slightly better. Lost a lot less leg skin this time.
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Sun 9th Apr 2017 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
The Main Cave | ||||||
19 | ★ What Would You Say if I Said to You that this Gun was Loaded? | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much easier/harder than it looks? Nice steep climbing.
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Sun 9th Apr 2017 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Manchester United Wall | ||||||
24 25 | ★★★ Quickie Quim Fill | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 year anniversary repeat. Stunning 3-d climbing, to thank $deity lock, mono-lock and glory knob. If only it was longer. So 23 downgrade was a sandbag but no more than FA 24 (even with the extra polish).
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Sat 1st Apr 2017 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
23 | ★ Check out my Junk | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly worthwhile.
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21 | ★ Sin City | 6m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Longer than it looks.
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Wed 29th Mar 2017 - Mount Keira | ||||||
North Face | ||||||
17 | Deb-ut De-view | 5m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
Worst climb I've done in 24 years. Every hold wet or dirty. Moves are decent enough but needs traffic.
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21 | ★★★ Wallyard Arete | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Onsighted with Karl in '98? Two alzheimers attempts since then had to skip last bolt and whip at the chain. Will fix the newish anchors chip sometime in the near future. Brilliant airy climbing.
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Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline Gonads Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Depleted Gonad Circumference | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool climbing for the grade. The traverse in removes classic status.
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21 | ★★ Word on a Wing | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool bouldery mid-route crux with a wacko undercling and a soapdish. Nice climbing above and below.
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22 | ★★ Violent Flemm | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool undercling crux and then sustained to the top. Lots of fun crimps. Looks dirty but is perfectly clean.
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Mon 27th Feb 2017 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek South Central | ||||||
19 | ★★ Silver Hands | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Bit reachy.
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19 | ★ Burping Burgers | 8m | ★ Good | |||
7 weeks off does wonders?
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Sat 7th Jan 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Spoilt Brats Wall | ||||||
22 21 | ★★ Shades of Grey | 30m | ★ Good | |||
A bit of a reachy crux and the initial throw is a wake-up. Start hold thankfully doesn't creak anymore. Longer than it looks too.
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24 | ★★★ Ritalin | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow! This is way more stunning than I remembered. Direct over the 3rd bolt is still the way to go and a good warm-up for the real mantle. Important right hand slot higher up.
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Fri 30th Dec 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Big Top | ||||||
22 | ★★ Llewd Dude | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Way better than I remembered. Follow the path of least resistance for a pleasant lower crux.
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19 | ★★ JinX | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Way better than I remembered and a great intro to the Big Top style. Go to top anchors for even more value and clasicness.
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20 | ★★ FliX | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Slightly insecure crux that looks worse than it is. Engaging from top to bottom.
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Wed 28th Dec 2016 - Mount Keira | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
9 12 | Slip Slab Slop | 6m, 3 | Average | |||
Brendan's 3rd lead
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14 17 | ★ Atheists Arete | 6m, 3 | Average | |||
Brendan's 2nd lead
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12 15 | ★ Archer's Arc | 7m, 4 | Average | |||
Brendan's 1st lead.
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Wed 21st Dec 2016 - Mount Keira | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
21 | ★ The Brainsnapper Variant | 14m | Average | |||
Fun but short. Sandy first move crank. Cool thin traverse with bad feet. Chipped footer not needed. Mantle would be hell. Two sandy (no I mean actual sand) excuses for holds.
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21 | ★★★ Sex Haunt | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Airy and insecure climbing between bolts. 20 years ago this was an easy clipup.
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Sun 18th Dec 2016 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Manchester United Wall | ||||||
20 23 | ★ Drill Attack | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Easier than Man U. Crux is clipping third bolt and stressing over levering biner.
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20 | ★★ Manchester United | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Huck you meat.
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Sun 18th Dec 2016 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Central Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Kiddies Chorus | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
Bad house with nice position. Half an interesting move with fun split finger hold. Started up D.
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Sun 18th Dec 2016 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Chook | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Nice first move, and punchy headwall. Keepin' it real.
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20 21 | ★ Chicken | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Made the start a bit harder than needed. Punchy headwall.
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18 20 | ★★ Corner from Heaven | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Another retrod trad climb with bonus grades!
13 years between Alexandra drinks.
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Sun 20th Nov 2016 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Hargraves Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Cane Toad | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun enough.
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20 | ★ Back to School | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
With Al in '96 on gear. Better finish going to up to ILotG.
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23 | ★★ In Lieu of the Gym | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 cool rooflets. Lay off the pocket on the 1st. Unlikely pinch undercling for the 2nd. Wild left hand undercling and right foot backstep level with your hand to finish. Slightly contrived to not wander over to BtS at the finish.
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Sun 30th Oct 2016 - The Hide Away | ||||||
The Prow Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Jack Spaniel | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Hard start and finish. Good moves
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23 | ★★ Hidden Gem | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Good top half. Sneakily pumpy with some weirdness over the bulge, leading it harder moves and final heartbreaker. Slight self sandbag at 22.
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Sun 30th Oct 2016 - The Hide Away | ||||||
Descent Gully Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Winter Soldier | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Worthwhile if short. Delicate finish.
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22 | ★ Gettin Wet | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Not the best warmup but fun climbing. Somehow didn't fall off.
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Sat 27th Aug 2016 - The Loony Bin | ||||||
The Loony Bin | ||||||
20 | ★ Mad Patty. | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Crag classic. Every move at the grade with deep pulls, bad feet, multiple variations and some sneaky moves to bring it to the grade. Quite the pumper.
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21 | ★★ Good Morning Nurse Ratched | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Two good but slightly contrived moves 7 grades harder than the rest of the climb does not a 3 star classic make.
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Sun 14th Aug 2016 - Frederick Peak | ||||||
South Sentinel Jungle Gym | ||||||
19 | ★ Arguable Arrogance | 40m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
Started right of WttJ up easy ramps to 1st FH. Very nice climbing with good crux at 2nd bolt and some more harder stuff higher. Spoilt by the climbing up the broken pillars and wondering whether you're meant to go direct. Long. Rapped to ground on single 60m from lower anchors to right. Don't know if 60m rope will get you down from anchor chains.
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19 | ★ Drill First Ask Questions Later | 19m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Awesome steep top section. Cool off-balance move down low. Spoilt slightly by leftwards diversion, and again wondering whether to go direct.
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20 | ★★ Made in the Shade (Terra Nullius) | 28m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fantastic sustained steep stemming on much better rock than expected. Longer than it looks.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2016 - Alfords Point | ||||||
Alfords Point Main Area | ||||||
22 24 | ★★ Sweet Charlotte | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
24 if you skip all the good holds.
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19 | ★ Suburbanitis | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nicer moves than I was expecting down low. Fun up top.
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19 | ★ Brown Hornet | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fun with funner headwall.
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20 | ★★ Brother Sun | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Feisty bulge. Way better on gear.
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21 | ★★ Sister Moon | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sneakily pumpy.
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23 | ★★ Show Us Your Form | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Bit of an onsight grovel in the middle spoiled it for me.
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22 | ★★ Roof Stalker | 16m, 7 | Average | |||
Awesome direct start move then meh.
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Sun 29th May 2016 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Sooty Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★ Abbey Road (Abbey Road (aka Chimera)) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Delicate and insecure. Not a single pull. Will be memorable on gear.
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20 | ★ Filed Away | 20m | ★ Good | |||
One hardish finger stack down low then quite straight forward. Fun crimps and steep jugs up high.
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22 | ★★ Vulcan | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Funky start followed by insecure arete, reachy flake and blissful jugging.
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19 | ★ Soo | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
At the grade, classy, delicate, mountains iron stone climbing with a thoughtful arete and flake. Not a single pull.
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19 | ★ Sweep | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
At the grade, classy, delicate, mountains iron stone climbing. Not a single pull.
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Sun 22nd May 2016 - Lucas Heights | ||||||
23 24 | ★★ Cortisone | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Slip low down first go.
Not quite as awesome as it looks but clean and dry! A few fun first crux moves (start right rather than direct over bolt) into some trad leg and potentially scrotum slicing sitdown action, a couple of quick slaps and then cool (mostly solid) jugs. Pumpy little number.
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21 | ★ Yo! Don Bosco | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Cool climbing spoilt a bit by dirt. Fun sidepull for the shorties. Probably 20 with a little less dirt at the start.
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18 | Fusions | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
Cool climbing spoilt by water. Did the warmup job. Try not to skip the roof bolt.
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21 22 | ★ Interior Castle | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
No wonder it used to feel hard at19. Lower is spoilt by some dirt in the seam. Still got some of the first bolt butterflies. Lovely committing but pretty straight forward crux. Bird poo has dried and isn't an issue. No gimme finish.
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Sat 14th May 2016 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Stonehaven | ||||||
20 | ★★ Handful | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fun start into cranky crux. Cool arete slopes up top.
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18 19 | ★★ Chain-saw | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Better rock than PLS but more straight forward. Small hidden holds at 3rd bolt make a casual 17 after pulling off the ground.
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18 | ★ Princess Lauren of Stonehaven | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting rock both low and high.
|
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Sat 14th May 2016 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Hargraves Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Dance Goes On | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun layaway finish too.
|
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Sat 7th May 2016 - Bourbon Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Bulleit | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Crag classic. A couple of proper crimps. Another cool press. Juggy steepness. Awesome stone.
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23 | ★★ Woodstock | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing stone. Cool press to avoid the ordinary slimps. Sustained. Hands free knee!
|
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24 | ★★★ Bundy | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Self-saucing sandbag, thought I was on Woodstock. Verging on classic. More amazing stone. Quite a while on this trying to used the ticked footer out right under the bulge. Weirdish tension move over the bulge using the only slightly dirty high side-pull. Pumparama finish. Probably don't need to hands on top, no jugs and some dirt. Crag definitely favours the tall.
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24 | ★★ Jim Beam | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Great top half. Tall people can stem rather than punch for the knob jug. Saviour hold under the roof or was that KS?
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23 | ★★ Kentucky Straight | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Punchy top half. Read the topo! Jugs over the top for easy chain clip.
|
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20 | ★ Wild Turkey | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great chicken pulling with a better start than SC.
|
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20 | ★ Devil's Cut | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome climbing and position even with the dirt and webs. Climbs great through to WT chain, no birds nest interference required.
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Suited my style, good conditions? But 4 weeks on the couch and a gammy knee? 21 seems right. Maybe the low traverse is 23 - looks slopy and awkward enough.