Ascents as various tick types as trad by Kate Hunt

This is a really nice crack climb, good variety of styles along the route. Fun 'classic canyon' bit at the top where it turns slabby and you have to shift styles.

Nice to have a chunk of overhang that's easy but still asks for some big moves. Took my time on the stairway, because I could: the stretch above is far better with all the dirt shoveled out of it. Rock to the left is apparently still loose in spots, as a new climber we had with us found out when he went that way and pulled some down. But the route itself is much cleaner. Stick to the obvious wide slot with the staircase in it. Last climb of the day: I took down the anchor from the NEW bolts.

This climb has real potential, particularly the crack in the upper half, but it will definitely need some gardening. The rock at the start felt friable: proceed with caution here. After the wide step right, as you start to move up, look out for loose rock in the mini-dihedral to your left. Then just enjoy the heck out of the finger crack that takes you to the top.

Followed David up this to start the day. More gear keeps presenting itself, which is a good thing. The top dihedral is still a bit run out. WATCH OUT on lowering: there's a notch (at the top of the second big blocky section, I think) that has a nasty tendency to catch the rope and stop it.

Glad to be on top rope when we noticed the missing hanger. The lower half is not particularly hard, the upper gets tricky: friction slab.

The warm up for the day. Somehow the first climb of the day always makes me regret that last cup of coffee.

Gorgeous: with a little dash of spice right at the end to kick it up a bit.

What it says on the tin: a jug wall. Nice starter for the day.

The one 'move' feels a bit bigger on lead, but protected so well it's not a big problem.

Looks deceptively blank from below: placements reveal themselves as you go. Protects very well.

Think we got off route, but had fun doing it.

Easy going and fun: pretty polished from traffic, gear was sometimes obvious because of wear.

A lovely route...

Still a great crack. Seconding was made more interesting here, because the leader just buried his gear: spent a lot of time trying to get it back out. Solid gear and some really cool moves.

The climbing is easy but the gear is super thin.

Got it clean this time! The crack's a bit awkward but a very satisfying pull up out of it and into the rest of the climb.

For some reason this time up rope drag was so bad it almost stopped me making it to the top: by the top stretch I was barely able to pull up enough to keep moving upward. No idea why - I extended. Maybe the two times I slung the tree? Problem being, not slinging the tree results in serious runout at the top dihedral and beyond (there's theoretically a nut placement in a tiny chink at the back of the dihedral, but it's not secure.)

Sent it this time! A beautiful climb.The lower flake is a really satisfying series of stemming moves followed by an undercling, smearing traverse and a burly pull up onto the top of the flake. The second half moves up a slab - not hard, but with a nice flow to it.

Felt a little easy for 5.9 but still has some really nice balance moves.

A really nice crack climb with some variation and a good flow.

Second ascent of the day, this time on top rope: actually got to enjoy the climbing. Which really is lovely.

Bolt placement is pretty awkward for a 5.5. If I'm climbing a 5.5 I don't expect some of the sketchy stances and odd reaches that you run into on this route. Climbs like it was bolted by a much stronger climber who possibly didn't put his- or herself into a 5.5 climber's shoes.

Just did the bottom pitch, as the top two were a bit easy.

For a 5.6 it has a few moves that make you think. The rock here is interesting, forces you to be creative.

The 'hell' is the stretch of loose dirt and choss above the stairway - but the stairway is so cool looking and the slab above it a nice long sustained friction climb. Watch out for loose rock, a lot of the lower part seemed a bit rotten. Be careful.

Placed more gear this time than on the last lead - and knew to extend my placements a lot, particularly low below the small roof.

The trickiest bit is trying to stem around a bulge: makes you think and trust your feet and a couple of small finger ledges at times.

I want to come back with gear and lead it: scoped out placements on the way and it looked good. Lots of medium-sized nuts and tri-cams.

A beautiful dihedral climb - interesting balance between big moves and technical ones.

A 5.5 that also makes you think a bit. A very pretty climb.

A 5.5 that also makes you think a bit. A very pretty climb.

It's not the climbing, it's the exposure: upper part of this climb is very airy.

Such a beautiful splitter crack. The edges are nearly square, and a little offset, so laybacking the whole thing is an option, although I went the less physical route of left-foot jams, right-foot small edges, and fist jams. Geometrically square in a way that made me think of trying to climb a building, but with a slight curve to the right to add interest.

Climbed in the rain: the lower part stayed dry-ish, but the upper half, above the dihedral, was pretty wet, which made the hold less secure. Still, a gorgeous climb.

If you don't find the kneebar, the starting moves on this route could be a lot more work. But after some messing around, my friend and I found the sequence and it went pretty easily. I was surprised to discover the rating, actually.

When you see this dihedral from one of the other routes it looks like it could be quite technical. But, when you get on it, it's much easier than it looked. Nice finger pockets in the corner in the top half, and some great feet on the left face: the bottom is easy, and it gets harder as you go. Crux at the top. For extra credit, exit right 1m below the top of the dihedral, and up the relatively featureless right arete, climbing up to a large tree at the top.

Good variety on this route - you're shifting gears every 5m or so. The base seemed a bit awkward to me and it's very 'undeveloped trad', with bushes and lichen complicating matters, but all in all a nice, long, wandering, varied climb. Keeps you on your toes.

Sort of unremarkable; nice warm up though.

Where the crack narrows there are a few thin moves but friction is good and there are generous edges. Great variety in this climb - a little crack, a little corner, a little dihedral, a little slab, all at once.

Fun - for the first lead of the day I thought it went easy for the grade: speaks to the really good protection, I guess.

Climbed this as the second pitch of Lapin agile, traversing sideways off Lapin agile to the bolts at the top of Encore! mon lapin. Kind of short as a second pitch, but what the hey. It was fun. With a 40m rope we couldn't do the whole of Lapin in one pitch.

Nice dihedral with some nifty layback moves past the small roof. And it's jugtastic at the top.

Easy climbing but with some lovely elegant moves on great holds in the top section. And the top half is a little haven of clean rock in an undeveloped, lichen- and moss-covered area! Plus, the view of the lake from the climb is unbeatable.

Watch out for that tree! (Here's your choice: awkward moves to sling it and then get away from it again - it'll be your last easy placement before the runout end - or forego using it and get into the (R) part a little earlier.) I tried to sling it. Quite possibly the goofiest lead I've ever done. But the dihedral beyond was lovely climbing. Extend your placements! This thing zigzags around edges, and rope drag at the end was a killer.

Like David said. Lots of junk rock: there was more 'spice' as we rapped back down over it and David kicked even more loose stone free.

We did the variant, up to the rap station at the top of Rocketman. Second on the first pitch: led the variant second pitch.

I climbed it twice because it was so gorgeous I just wanted to do it agan.

I've been trying to get this route clean for a while, and scoffing incredulously at the 5.6 rating. I still think it's very hard for the grade! But for me at least, fist jams were the key. Classic crack technique finally clicked for me with this route. A thoroughly satisfying route to get clean.

Led pitches 2 and 3: second on pitch 1.