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Farm Rock 🚫

Climbing in this area is closed.

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Description

This area currently closed to climbing by the NCC.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

After rappelling straight down from the "One Pine" bolted anchors, climbing straight back up the rope route, through trees and bushes.

Closed

Start 20m left of the corner of One Pine, at a corner with a big ledge 3m off the ground, and with a smooth overhanging right wall.

Pitch 1 (5.6) Go up from the big ledge for a few feet, then go diagonally left to a clump of birch trees. (The trees can be reached by a scramble from the left.)

Pitch 2 (5.1) Climb up the broken corner behind the trees for 4m. Go right for 2m. (One can go straight up from here to intersect the last pitch of One Pine.) Go back left and up to a pine tree. Continue 4m past the tree to a short rightwards slanting ramp which is followed to another pine tree. Belay.

Pitch 3 (5.0) Easy slabby rock terraces.

Closed

Start at a large arched corner with a smooth right face, about 20m left of One Pine.

Climb this corner, then up towards some broken rock, over the broken rock then trending slightly leftwards continue upwards to the anchors for One Pine.

Closed
Closed
Closed

Start at the foot of a large corner capped by a big overhang.

  1. (5.4) Climb 3m to a large ledge. Climb the corner to a ledge, still well below the overhang. Step down and traverse left to a wide crack. Climb the crack until level with the overhang on the right. (Variations exist.)
  2. (5.3) Traverse diagonally left up a crack to a pine tree, then scramble up slabs to the top.

Can be done in one pitch with a long rope and a lot of rope drag.

Closed
Closed
Closed

Start at the arete right of One Pine.

  1. (5.8) Climb up and slightly left, then back right and step around the arete to a belay stance.
  2. (5.5) Climb straight up above the stance, passing a bushy tree to a thin crack splitting the face. Follow it to a narrow ledge, then climb the wider crack directly above.
Closed
Closed

Bolt line to the left up the cliff.

First bolt is high, consider a stick clip, or traverse in from the the corner to the right to get the clip, then re-start with it clipped.

Closed

Climb up the bolt line on the right side of the face until the ledge (after the 5th bolt, where the route becomes far steeper and thinner), then traverse left and continue up the bolts for the left route, finally veering right again to finish on the anchor for the right bolt line.

Closed

Obvious bolt line that goes up the face just left of "Epinephrine".

Closed
Closed

Start at the foot of the large corner (as per "Wall Climb"). Climb up about 3m to a large ledge, go slightly left, then up the wall to a corner. Follow the corner to a wide ledge. Exit right from the ledge and finish up a short gully.

Epinephrine historically was 5.7 R, but 3 bolts have recently (2009?) been added to the R section, making it a safer (though less bold) climb. Still some run-out in places, probably 5.7 PG now.

Closed

From the first ledge, step right into the smooth open book and climb the corner to the normal route on Epinephrine.

(May also be bolted, now?)

Closed

A logical, longer, and more aesthetic extension of the normal route. From the end of the ledge on Epinephrine, continue up following some steep cracks to the top.

Closed

A few meters right of of the main corner (which "Epinephrine" ascends) is another corner, with a cave at its base.

Climb up to this corner, ascend the corner (past one old piton) exiting leftwards, then up to the same last bit and to the same anchors as "Epinephrine".

Closed
Closed

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Sat 29 Apr
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