Ascents as Flash as sport by Paul Frothy Thomson

Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.

Short, but intense and unlikely.

The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.

An okay face climb.

An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.

A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.

Super exposed arete climbing. Would be 3 stars but the rock is slightly less than perfect. Very technical, yet steep and pumpy.

Gentleman's Sit Flash. Flashed with a "gentleman's sit" at a no-hands rest near the top. Mitch's draws and beta (super key for the start) with little/no chalk on the route.

Wow... Just... wow! Like Subliminal, but for climbing connoisseurs. This thing is destined to be a classic, especially given the relatively easy approach. Probably 23/24 after the first 10m, but it simply never lets up its entire 70m length. Even the top "Grey rock" headwall is tricky and awesome.

Best of all: it completely makes sense given the fact that there isn't really a "stance" to rebelay until you're almost at the top. Rope drag was fine as well.

An utter joy to climb.

Short but awesome quality. A hard, powerful crux at the grade.

A fun, wandering journey... but with a rather nails crux. Up-climbed and down-climbed on lead for a warmup.

Wild and improbable steepness at the grade, following blocky crack features through roof after roof.

Awesome second half up the steepness, but the lower half (on funkey blocks) was too slippery to be enjoyable.

Great climbing up linked features. Great flow and excellent warmup.

A surprisingly hard slab, leads to a wild, but scarily finale through the rooflet, and up the prow above.

Chose not to tame this by extending anything, but you would not want to fall on at least 2 sections (including the crux). Thin, balancy, and technical.

Found the slippery feet on this kinda scary. Thr final steep bit was fun.

First route in Frankenjura! Get used to those small pockets!

In approach shoes. Way better and less chossy than it looks. This was actually quite fun.

Aside from a horrible start, and a silly anchor position, the other 30m of this route is enjoyable, sustained, an varied. There are a handful of hardish moves that probably make this 23, but for the most part it's continuous, rather than cruxy. The fact it tackles 3 rooves at the grade is pretty cool.

A lot of this was sopping, so I chose to chalk and equip the draws on the way down. Like everything here, the quality was so high that crappy connies didn't impede the fun. Super classy face climbing.

Short and punchee!

I probably had more trouble keeping it together through the start boulder, than the upper powerful, morpho section... but I did have Michael's good foot beta.

Some cool, delicate moves... but I thought the crux was absolutely brutal at the grade. Not a bad introduction to the crag, though.

The top section up the headwall is briefly Red River-esque.

Mega! Brilliant rock and wild moves once you leave the ledge. Always worth a lap.

Some sections of great climbing, but marred by crappy carrots (albeit, lots of them!), plenty of bad rock, dirt, moss, and the really weird line it takes up the feature.

My recommendation for the pitch grades are 24, 24, 23.

Pitch 1 COULD be great, but the key holds are very very temporary, and I had to climb it on eggshells for the flash. We placed draws as we rapped over it, and ticked up key holds, though I had no climbing beta for the send.

I went for the onsight epic on P2, and had just stuck the upper slab crux (certain it was in the bag) when I ripped off a huge -unlikely- jug and whipped. After belaying Monty, I had to settle for seconding it clean taking off the bolt plates.

Pitch 3 had a tough start, then simply oodles of delicate climbing on crap rock at about grade 21.

All in all, a fun day out with friends (and not quite the epic we were anticipating) but far from classic.

Surprisingly good! Would be a proper classic but for the no-hands rests at half height. Two engaging, long boulder problems in differing styles, split by a couple of ledges. Definitely only 24.

Flash placing most of the bolt plates on lead, but I had the full beta spiel from Neil. Some sections of average rock, but quite sustained slabbing with no real shutdown moves. The mantle is ridiculous! The in situ carrots are in completely the wrong places almost the entire way up.

Lots of moves, but no shutdown crux. A climb of two halves, and both worthy. The upper section is hilariously unlikely.

Awesome. No bad rock, and never a boring bit as it meanders up radical, improbable features. Possibly the best route at the crag.

Awesome, unlikely climbing with some mega positions. Even staying on the arete direct this isn't too hard, but it IS brilliant.

Much better than it looks. Some technical face/slab up fairly nice grey rock. The bolts are terrible, though.

Climbs better with a single point of aid than in the hideously bouldery free version. I had a bit of a crack at the crux, but was too shouldery for me at the moment. Otherwise: a nice start on great rock, and a fairly punchy pleasant section above the crux.

A few interesting moves, and an engagingly steep finale.

Sweet. Quite sustained, and on awesome rock, though not as steep as some of the stuff here. I watched Lucas and Magui go hard on this, then went for the lots-of-beta techo ascent, whereby it felt fine and fun.

Flash but for a "gentleman's sit" at a no-hands stance. Probably a bit easier if you're my height, but the entire steep section at the top is quite sustained regardless. A fairly cruisy lower half, and a fairly intense upper half.

I really enjoyed the upper half of this, despite it being dirty as a pig in a wallow. With some brushing it cleaned up nicely. Has a rather gritstone-esque finish.

Awesome! Despite some crap rock, this is a proper gnarly sustained stemming corner, with good technique a must. Seemed rather hard for the grade.

Route #4 of 4 of the Crag Classics. Intense, featured sloper climbing on some of the best rock of the crag.

Onsight but for the shared start with the righthand 24 (which I'd fallen off previously). Probably about gr22 to the top once you're past the shared start, and its some pretty outrageous climbing at the grade. The steepness is freaking nutty.

Flashed with the full beta spiel from Monty. I also really appreciate being one of the namesake elements for this route

A few okay moves, but the start seemed hideously hard, and kinda sketchy. My skin was wrecked 3rd day on, and was hard to enjoy this.

Great! Quite sustained through the orange-arete section (with a surprisingly tricky crux), then a pleasant slab to the finish.

Certainly much more sustained than its neighbour, and with a proper hard crux at half height. Fortunately the ending is easier. I had to give this some welly to get through it. A route feels really long when you aren't ever "really" just cruising

A nice long pitch of slabbing on generally good rock. The finale in particular is rather exciting through steepness and a wild mantle.

Once you get to the orange rock, this is genuinely good face climbing. The moves themselves aren't hard, but I suspect the counter-intuitive nature of some of the sequences might ruin a few onsights. Steeper than you think!