Showing all 39 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 28th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Rod's Ravine | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Friendly Jackal | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Climbed to get Guns gear back. Only placed 2 cams (the rest was wires and hexes). Nice climbing, and a friendly introduction to trad with tonnes of great pro.
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Wed 18th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Wally World | 75m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Gene. If it weren't for the hideous V3 start, this entire route would be classic. P1 - Red Point. Took a few goes to get off the ground. P2 - Onsight. Both pitches are great climbing with good moves, good position and solid rock... Just ignore the semi-manky carrots. We had an epic finding the second rap (Hint: its at the bottom of the grey slabby section before the first undercut) so I got some prussiking practice. Slings for a useful thread or some supplemental gear might be a good idea.
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Sat 14th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sunbath | ||||||
20 | ★★ Radioactive Man | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Warm-up in approach shoes. Only clipped the bolt before and the bolt after the crux. Awesome little 20, still heaps of fun.
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Wed 11th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side | ||||||
25 | ★★ Cicada - PROJECT PAUL | 45m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
P3 only. Rope soloing lap. Can now climb every move in good style EXCEPT for the crux move. I'm going to move one of the bolts and redirect the route slightly.
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Sat 7th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Colosseum | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Wake of the Flood | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow. No wonder this is a test piece crack. Amazing trad climbing. P1 - Clean 2nd. P2 - Onsight. P3 - Red Point (took a huge fall back to the ledge onto C3s on the final move on the onsight). The Chimney on P1 is one of the most amazingly WEIRD I've climbed, the jam crack on P2 is strenuous and the coffin slot (and its exit) is weird and techy, and P3 is a sporty, bouldery finger crack. Stoked to finally get on this with Taib. Great rock the whole way.
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Sat 7th Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sunbath | ||||||
19 | ★ Empty Chairs | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Short'n'sweet. Nice climbing which is harder than it looks. Good rock and a bit techy.
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Sun 1st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Sweet Dreams | 130m, 20 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Climbed out with (heavy) packs rather than walking out of the crag. Lead Pitches 1 & 2 (linked) and Pitch 5 via the grade 17 variant. Entertainingly picturesque.
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Sun 1st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
22 | ★★ La Niña | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Climbed to retrieve a stuck rope. Fortunately it was THIS route that the rope got snagged on and not Thai Virus, because I actually enjoy lapping this beauty.
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Sun 1st Dec 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Iliad Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Iliad | 87m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. P1 only to get to the ledge at the start of P2. P2 was then climbed via the Trojan (23) variant start for the FA of that pitch. The first pitch has cleaned up nicely, and was genuinely pleasant to lead.
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Wed 20th Nov 2013 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches In The Trenches | ||||||
V2 | ★★ The Rude Bomb | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Maybe the best route on this part of the trenches. Tricky pocket-match. Nice arete.
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V2 | ★★ Dubya's Dyno | 3m | ★ Good | |||
No dyno for me, I can do this static with a high rock-over.
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V1 | ★ George | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Alright bouldering.
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Wed 20th Nov 2013 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches Bunker Wall | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Exodus-A-Day | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice way to do this little problem, and less contrived than the originals.
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V3 | ★★ Friendly Fire | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite hard to get established, then some scary balancy moves to the top. Enjoyable.
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Sat 16th Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Seamstress | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. Stunning climbing, and quite long. Right up there as one of the best 22's in the mountains,
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Fri 8th Nov 2013 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Betty Blue Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ A Day at the Beach | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Enjoyable and cruisy, but the crux finale surprised me in its thin-ness. I don't remember it being that difficult.
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Sat 2nd Nov 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Jewel Thief | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. No pushover at the grade, but stunning and worthwhile climbing the whole way. Some long draws will help. Did the unprotected (bouldery) direct start, probably better to start up the vague corner to the left. Great!
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Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Catch the Wind Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Catchit | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Hasnt become any better since last time, but its an okay warm-up. The first move isnt fun, tbe rest is pleasant, and the rock is good.
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Sat 28th Sep 2013 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Old Baldy Upper Cliff | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Stiletto | 90m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
P1 - Clean 2nd; P2 & P3 (linked) - Onsight. Much better than Day of the Long Knives. Pitch 1 is a sustained endurance test piece, with two distinct crux moves that keeps you fighting to the belay 45m off the deck. Technical and demanding. Pitch 2 is bold at the grade, with two hard moves a long way above the gear, and spaced bolts in-between. I linked it into Pitch 3 (the top 20m of Scimitar) necessitating challenging 2-rope management to avoid drag from the 15m traverse in the middle. Great!
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20 | ★★ The Day of the Long Knives | 92m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Gene. P1 - Onsight, P2 - Clean 2nd. P3 - Onsight. P4 - Clean 2nd. Predictable climbing (lots of small ironstone edges) but generally quite sustained and in an awesomely exposed location. Some bad rock, but we didn't break off much. Tricky route-finding with the other nearby routes (eg. central direct) which necessitated a re-belay when I ended up at the wrong belay. Pitch 2 has the hardest single move of the route, but P3 is quite sustained thinness. Classic in an old-school vein.
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Sat 21st Sep 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass West Side | ||||||
19 | Wrath of Delilah | 60m | ★ Good | |||
With Taib. P1 - Clean Second. P2 - Onsight. Pretty good climbing, but a lot of rubbish rock. Both pitches have some pretty bold sections with tricky climbing on dubious gear and questionable rock. But both pitches also have their charm. Quite adventurous. Getting off the top was an epic (Taib sacrificed a prussik cord to sling 2 carrots and rap off that). Worthwhile IF you like this sort of thing.
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Sat 21st Sep 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side | ||||||
25 | ★★ Cicada (Cicada - PROJECT PAUL) | 45m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
P1 (Grasshopper Access Pitch) ONLY - Flash. Probably grade 15-16 climbing, but with the amount of dirt in it at the moment it felt hard. Bring a rack of wires.
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Tue 27th Aug 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Sublime and the Beautiful | 75m | ★★ Very Good | |||
P1 - Onsight. P2 - Flash (onsight after the first 4 bolts, part way into the crux), P3 - Onsight. I climbed P2 and P3 as a giant 50m pitch. Pitch 1 is an access doddle. P2 is stunning and sustained, with a long, thin, and bloody hard technical crux at the grade. P3 is good climbing with mega exposure, but the rock is a bit crap. A good outing all around.
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Sun 25th Aug 2013 - Mt Gibraltar | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Slow Twitch | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat as part of a giant linkup to the Slow Twitch extension. I've climbed this enough times that the funky trickiness of the slab section is under control, but still required my full attention. A totally worthwhile route in its own right.
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20 | ★ the Italian Route | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Warm-up. Nice friction slabbing, but still awaiting a nice rainy downpour to wash away the sandy rock after its recent cleaning.
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Sun 18th Aug 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Perry's Lookdown | ||||||
22 24 | ★★ Beggars Banquet | 160m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Gene. Top 2 pitches (5 & 6) only as a rap-in climb-out affair before midday departure. P5 (22) - Onsight. P6 (21) - Second Unclean. I broke a hold off about 2m from the anchors and fell on the last pitch. Pitch 5 is a long, varied and wandery route, getting harder all the way to the last bolt. The final move to the ledge is a killer. The best pitch I climbed at Perrys today. Pitch 6 has a bouldery start, then okay climbing to a final tricky mantle. I can't wait to do the full link.
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22 | ★★ Fat Yak | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
With Gene. P1 - Onsight, P2 and P3 (linked) - Clean Second. Pretty good, and probably makes a good hard-ish multi for any wanting to get into this obscure vein, but I found most of the climbing very "typical" Blueys (though not necessarily in a bad way). Predictable, but quality climbing. The first pitch is a nice sustained number to get you warmed up. The 2nd and 3rd pitches combine well to make a worthwhile varied pitch. Great in the sun and with no wind, and awesome position.
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Sat 17th Aug 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Leif Ericsson | 93m | ★★★ Classic | |||
With JengA. P1 - Clean Second. P2 - Onsight. P3 - Clean Second. P4 - Onsight. Nails hard 1st and 3rd pitch at the grades (where written-up grades are irrelevent), but starkly different climbing between each pitch, and an overall stellar route. P1 is an absolute unrelenting thin face test piece, and a pitch I'm coming back to repeat on lead. P2 is interesting but typical slabbing. P3 - varied and tough pumper. P4 - A bit cruxy, surrounded by much easier climbing. Classic.
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15 | ★★★ Fuddy Duddy | 95m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm-up, with JengA. P1 - Onsight. P2 - Clean Second. P3 - Onsight. An easy-ish old school classic with varied climbing, and some rather spaced (or creative) pro. The second pitch has some rad off-widthing (large cams might be good for the headspace), and the third pitch has some exciting chimneying. Good value at the grade, and it's great to soak in the history.
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Sun 11th Aug 2013 - Mt Gibraltar | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Slow Twitch | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Warm-up. Great, weird technical slabbing which just gets steeper until you're climbing an overhanging corner on jugs. Awesome.
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Sat 10th Aug 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bowens Creek Main Wall Left | ||||||
21 | ★★ Mr Pink | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Warm-up. Great fun with a tough finale.
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Sun 4th Aug 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Again. Good techy face climbing. Better than the slab next to it. Read my previous comments.
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19 | ★★ Birthday Bolts | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Again. Good slab. Read my previous comments on this one.
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Sat 3rd Aug 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. P1 only for a change, placing the gear for Youngie to lead it. Much better as the full linkup.
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Sun 28th Jul 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
16 | ★★ Knight's Mare | 130m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Climbed at EOD to escape the crag with heavy packs (alpine style!). Multiple guide descriptions don't seem to match the climb. A bit adventurous and vegetated. The super-exposed traverse is great, but the worryingly runout, tricky, manky corner system after it is scary. Good, not great. P1 & P2 of SD (linked) - Neil; P3 (shortened to belay at tree at half length) - Me; P4 (to huge ledge above chimney) - Neil; P5 & P6 (linked - traverse, then up corner system) - Me.
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Sun 28th Jul 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Iliad Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Iliad | 87m | ★ Good | |||
With Neil (who brought pruning shears for the journey). Mostly enjoyable old-school trad romp, with minimal bad rock and only 10m or so of vegetation in the entire climb. Could be really good with repeats (Neil did his best to clear vegetation and loose rock). P1 - Easy, with a nice (short) crack, and a vegetated finish. P2 - Tricky move to initial run-out, then nice crack to belay. P3 - Great, challenging moves to get started, then nice corner crack. P4 - Funky corner system in a great position
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Sat 27th Jul 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Duckling | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. With good conditions, and having NOT been bolting all day, I actually think this is probably more 19 than 20. Still worthwhile for a short little route, and a decent warm up.
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18 | ★ Gosling | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat as a warm up. I still think it's on the money at 18. Not bad.
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Sun 7th Jul 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Megalong Valley Crags The Phoenix | ||||||
20 | ★★★ The Phoenix | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another repeat. A speedy lead ascent (25min) to escape the crag as the sun went down. To save time, I simply ran it out as much as possible. Still nothing less than CLASSIC. It's good to see that EVERYONE I've taken out to this climb has reached the top singing its praises. GET ON IT!
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Showing all 39 ascents.