Ascents as Red point by Jason Nguyen

Repeat, setting up

Repeat, setting up

Definitely easy at 25 (with the bolt pull), but did it free with the dyno so taking 26 for it, as per 2019 guidebook. First few draws were on from doing WWS.

Less cruxy than Thai Virus, a touch more sustained, pretty good!

Minging on that right crimp is not my idea of a warm up, didn’t use the side pull. Linked into Stereo.

Wouldn’t pull on it again, but it’s good that it gives you another way to start these routes.

Taking Yui abseiling / climbing with Caitlyn

Repeat with Robin and Caitlyn but a total Alzheimers onsight, including going the wrong way on P1; future reference, just stay on the right side.

P2 was easier than I remembered with no off-widthing required.

P3 start was still hard as shit and I didn’t remember the chimney being that tight but I still had an absolute blast of a time. So good!!

Definitely sections of “do not fall” on P1 and P3.

Placing draws for Van and Caitlyn

Cleaning up a 10 year old hangdog, crux done directly on the bolt

End of day cooldown lap, forgot everything so cranked off the sloper at the top

Stoked to send first go today putting on the draws, didn’t remember a thing from 6+ years ago, wish I could claim the onsight! Very possible with the amount of chalk on this thing…

Good climbing the whole way and lots of rests too! Definitely on par with difficulty to Taxi Driver. No fancy beta just paste feet and throw?

Not fun putting on some draws, quite humid today so I was drenched in sweat by the top!

Quite a hard / cruxy start; bit of a run out at the top!

Blocks didn’t seem too loose?? Easy for 20

Repeat

Via the new (to me) direct start, only placing first two draws (after Jack did the OG start)

Had to send something after the abysmal efforts today, first time in 10+ years while putting the draws up; how this gets the same grade as other 25s on Main Wall is baffling.

Great sequence and holds though!

Started up direct, but got scared and just started traversing and kind of ended up on this line?

Repeat

Forgot how good the top of this is 2x

Nice climbing, 50m rope leaves plenty of rope spare

Route stayed quite dry despite the rain, good fun

Still a little bit pumpy, yes. Heaven opened up on us when I pulled onto the top slab.

Small hail stones when being lowered!!

My 10th lap of this, and it had to be with Ben - BEN TEN!

Lead 1/2/4/5 Exited on Left 17 variant

Rpt, the only free route on this side of the wall

9th lap, nicer than walking out! In the dark, led p3 and p5 (left variant)

Forgot how to do the start so took at second bolt and came down to restart, just had my hands mixed up!

Used a different footer at the crux and it was considerably easier than yesterday! Didn’t warm up and was worryingly pumped on the head wall!

Thought I was on the 20, setting up for caitlyn

Not the best conditions for this today, but somehow managed to send it putting on the (upper) draws! Very surprised but stoked!

Just keep crimping the life out of the holds and you’ll get there!

Lead 1 middle of rope and belayed Van and Daphne for their first outdoor climb.

Caitlyn lead P2

Finally taking Adam for his 20th birthday climb up BBB a few days shy of his 22nd birthday!

Climbed as 2 groups of 2: Me and Jack; Adam and Casey.

Left the car approx 8:15am and back by 3:25pm; got to lunch ledge around 12:20pm. Waited about an hour until I started climbing once we got to the start. A LOT of people on it today! 4 people in front and 2 that passed us on lunch ledge simul climbing.

Overall, probably 2 or so hours of waiting (at the start, lunch ledge and then at most anchors) but who cares when you’re having a good time and the climbing is super fun and cruisy!

Jack lead odds and I lead evens, except we simul climbed 4/5 and I was in front and “linked” them. Remembered the juggy head wall but my goodness, I couldn’t stop smiling up P7!

Realised I left my keys in Adam’s car so our car shuffle didn’t work out as intended, woops. Thanks to Alex/Hannah for the lift down though!!

Taking Tinam on his first multi, with caitlyn!

Lead all pitches, probably placed the most trad I’ve ever placed on this; was actively looking for placements. Middle 17 finish.

2 idiots abseiled the entire wall with their 100m+ static, dislodging a heap of rock onto a party doing Saccharine nightmare and some onto my party on p2 of sweet dreams. They didn’t even climb the route, they fixed the rope and walked out and pulled it up later? No climbing gear, no helmet, no brains.

Alzheimers onsight! 10+ years later. Felt much harder than Little Red Riding Hood. No necessarily hard moves but the pump steadily builds!

Placed 26 pieces of gear adding to the pump and making Jacks top out harder, doubles .5 to 2. A single 0.4 & 4, set of BD wires (10), two chickenhead slings and small totems (4).

Carried 2 3s to the top but didn’t use them. Left them at the crux for Jack!

Bit scared at the start on the small gear but settled after a 1/3rd or so.

Didn’t have all the gear I had hoped for, didn’t look at the route on the way down, did it with most of 1 BD rack and totems + wires. Got to place Jacks 5 and 6 hehehehe.

Definitely an Alzheimers onsight.

Setting up for Cams and Caitlyn, still don’t think it’s a good beginner lead though.

Approach shoes Lead 1/3

Nice to come back 9 years later and send this! Didn’t remember a thing but really nice climbing on P1, and some cool holds on P2! P3 easy but tread carefully, P4 isn’t as hard or ugly as people say!

Definitely a bit run out, especially the second to third bolt. I would recommend a panic draw if you’re short, hah. Mine got some use!

Nice day heading in with Ben, Laura and Caitlyn (they did Shandy, it was super busy today! They were 3 out of 10 climbers we saw on it?)

With Jack, I led pitches 1/3/5.

P1: felt very sore, from too much training this week, biceps were not happy! P2: felt good to laugh at jack being scared, exactly where I was many years ago. He got a bit lost trying to find the belay (it is not the chossy cave, stay on the arete and follow the carrots longer) P3: didn’t remember a thing from last time, was a bit scared traversing but all easy ground for the mild run out P4: easier than I remembered, with some v cool holds after the first set of double rings; a 120cm sling on the right is the right length. P5: slung a tree towards the end for extra protection, run out at the top but very easy.

2 hours 40 mins worth of climbing, unsure of c2c time as waited for a party before we started (they were retreating after their seconder fell on the start)