Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 15th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 瑞士墙 Swiss Wall 巧克力墙 Chocolate Side | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 旅游伙伴 The Traveling Alon (The Traveling Alan) | 32m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really, really good climb. Get on it.
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Sun 15th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 瑞士墙 Swiss Wall 奶酪墙 Cheese Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Philly Cheese Steak (Philly Cheese Cake) | 34m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
Warming up with Matt. Nice wall in a nice area.
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Sat 14th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.10a 5.10b | ★ 甜筒 Vedro (No Name ???) | 12m, 6 | ||||
With Terry.
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5.11a | ★ 斯洛文尼亚 Jeja (Jeja) | 14m, 6 | ||||
Managed to clean up the dog from last week. Sweet.
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Thu 12th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg Fantasy Area | ||||||
17 5.9 | ★★ Absent Friends | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky start.
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Wed 11th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ The Dark Side of the Moon (The Dark Side of the Moon 1st pitch) | 25m | ||||
No mistakes today. Still felt really hard.
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5.12b | ★★★ Proud Sky | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome. 2nd shot today. Tested Matts belay skills on the first shot, by falling while trying to clip the bolt just below the lip. Quite the fall.
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Mon 9th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 大榕树 Banyan Tree | ||||||
5.11b | ★ False Reality Extension (Name? 2pitch 6c) | 38m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Straightforward to half height, then bloody hard crux moves.
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5.11b | ★★ Open Team | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great looking line. Climbs well too. Felt an impossible sandbag as I dogged my way up it, but felt great second shot. Really technical with polished feet.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Beautiful Day | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Happy Hour | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyable. Tweaked something in my side.
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Sun 8th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.10b | ★ New Moon | 25m | ★ Good | |||
The tufa seems like it is going to break, but I remeber thinking that 3 years ago, and its still there....
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 小雷劈 Entreprise's Crag | ||||||
6b+ 5.11a | ★ Mei Nu (Mei Nv) | 10m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Climbed this in super poor style. Lots of grovelly tufa humping, that provided mush ammusement.
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6a+ 5.10d | ★ No Spicy | 11m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Worthwhile.
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.10d 5.11a | ★ 马佳 Ma Jia (Ma Jie) | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Much more overhanging than it looks.
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Sat 31st Mar 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Great Tier | ||||||
16 | FA ★★ kabling | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good route, best moderate overhang on the pipes? If I had the technology i would add a bolt at 6m, and a rap point, and this would be a classic.
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Sat 31st Mar 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
23 21 | ★★ Shrapnel | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is a sweet route. Only the first 8 metres of bridging up the right hand butress detracts.
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Sat 31st Mar 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
26 | ★★ Gun Ho | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Most effort ive put into ticking a route. ? The dynow at the start is the crux for me.
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Fri 30th Mar 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ||||
Wed 28th Mar 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ||||
Another night at the hoff.
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20 | ★ Bondage and Discipline | 18m, 4 | ||||
this felt harder tonight.
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Sat 24th Mar 2012 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Dungeon | ||||||
25 | ★★ Bozon | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt pretty solid on start. Clipped bolt 2 of the slope, then went up and left. From roof jug, used jeds right, then left hand gaston beta.
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26 | ★★ Art of War | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Cj had put the draws on then talked me through the moves. A bolder problem really. I dont flash 26, so might need a downgrade.
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Sat 24th Mar 2012 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso Golgotha | ||||||
22 23 | ★★ Resurrection Sunday (Unknown) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
route isnt in the guide, but is awesome. Slabby start is crux, then route steepens on big holds to the very top of the crag.
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19 | ★★★ Ghost Rider | 27m, 10 | ||||
Warmup
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Tue 20th Mar 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ||||
20 | ★ Bondage and Discipline | 18m, 4 | ||||
Sun 18th Mar 2012 - Oatlands | ||||||
Top Dam Rumble Cave (Dry) | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Rumble in the Jungle | 5m | ||||
V6 | ★★ Flounder | 3m | ||||
Shweeet.
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Sun 18th Mar 2012 - Oatlands | ||||||
Bottom Dam The Yellow Cave (Dry) | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ Sanguine | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This always feels hard!
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Sat 17th Mar 2012 - The Paradiso | ||||||
21 | ★★ Shock Wave | 13m, 5 | ||||
17 | ★ High Noon | 10m, 4 | ||||
25 | ★★ Captain Napalm | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Came together well. Sequency and powerful through the roof.
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Wed 14th Mar 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ||||
Sat 10th Mar 2012 - Oatlands | ||||||
Top Dam Warm Up Blocks (Dry) | ||||||
V6 | ★ 10. Dull Blade V6 (sds) | 3m | ||||
Felt staightforward. 2nd or 3rd try. Fingers felt strong (I think the dull blade injured me last time I tried it).
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V1 | ★ 11. Warm Me Up V1 | 3m | ||||
Took a break from trying Flounder. Good to see the water level has dropped a little.
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Sat 10th Mar 2012 - Oatlands | ||||||
Top Dam Rumble Cave (Dry) | ||||||
V3 | ★ Congaline of Suckholes | 3m | ||||
Warm up
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Tue 28th Feb 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ||||
22 21 | ★ Plastic Extras | 18m | ||||
24 | ★ Play Launch | 15m, 6 | ||||
Used Anaphalaxis start.
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Sat 25th Feb 2012 - The Paradiso | ||||||
21 | ★ K2 | 55m | ★ Good | |||
With Claudio. 1st pitch only. 38 degrees today, but conditions great. Bone dry rock, and in the shade.
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24 | ★★★ Offender Of The Faith | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool. Fell at 7th bolt putting the gear on, so was pretty confident id get it next go. Found a better way to do the start which heped.
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22 21 | ★★ Man's Machine | 32m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up. I did this a week or two ago, and didnt think it was great. Today I though it was good value.
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Thu 23rd Feb 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
23 | ★ Bad Habits | 18m, 4 | ||||
Lead as warm up.
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Sat 18th Feb 2012 - Oatlands | ||||||
Top Dam Rumble Cave (Dry) | ||||||
V3 | ★ Congaline of Suckholes | 3m | ||||
Warming up.
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Sun 12th Feb 2012 - The Paradiso | ||||||
17 | ★ Mixed Groceries | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
This route climbs well.
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21 | ★★ Shock Wave | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 21 | ★★ Man's Machine | 32m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Felt straightforward with chalk on the holds. Would be a tough onsight with no chalk up high ( a bit of devious moving around needed)
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Wed 8th Feb 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ||||
24 | ★★ Anaphylaxis | 15m, 5 | ||||
Sat 4th Feb 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Sphinx Rock Main face | ||||||
24 | ★★ Phoenix (Pheonix) | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Second try today. Roof straightforward, getting established on headwall clearly the crux. Bens beta got me there second try.
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22 | ★★ Walk Like an Egyptian | 12m, 5 | ||||
Warming up, no problems, other than some bug flew into my ear as I pulled into the roof, then burrowed its way in noisily for the rest of the route. Disturbing.
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Sun 29th Jan 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Great Tier | ||||||
21 | ★★ Schizophrenic | 70m, 24 | ★ Good | |||
Climbed this with tom. Well bolted route, with 3 pitches about the same difficulty. Will get tonnes of traffic!
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Thu 26th Jan 2012 - Kempton Quoin | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Felcher | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up. This was great! Good climbing and nice exposure.
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22 | ★★ The Smoking Gun | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing. A little bit of lichen in the last 4 or 5 metres made it feel a bit sketchy.
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21 | ★ Steel Prophylactic | 15m, 4 | ||||
Almost fell of the start. Feels harder to second than lead for some reason.
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24 | ★★ Mixed Emotions | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd pitch only. Felt straightforward. Hard moves are straight off the belay, then eases to 21.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Heat Pump | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome! Had tried this a couple of times a few years ago. Ben lead P1. I went up P2 to put the draws on and get sussed. Ended up ticking it. Really good climbing. Trying to lower of the top anchor to the ground with a 55m rope is, how do I put it...., not ideal.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes University Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Carpe Diem | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome pitch of climbing. Lots of good gear. Had climbed this before,remembered it feeling straightforward....Didnt feel straight forward today! Crux for me was getting to the jug in the r facing corner when you first get established on the colum proper.
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Sat 21st Jan 2012 - Oatlands | ||||||
Top Dam Rumble Cave (Dry) | ||||||
V3 | ★ Congaline of Suckholes | 3m | ||||
Warm Up
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Sun 15th Jan 2012 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Dungeon | ||||||
23 | ★★ Dr Pepper | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route, balancy then big deadpoint, then good rests to the top. 3rd try.
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Sun 15th Jan 2012 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Leviathan | ||||||
19 | ★ Viral Infection | 12m | Average | |||
Warm-up. Felt hard to me.
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Sat 14th Jan 2012 - Oatlands | ||||||
Top Dam Rumble Cave (Dry) | ||||||
V3 | ★ Congaline of Suckholes | 3m | ||||
Warm up. Took a couple of goes.
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Thu 12th Jan 2012 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
20 | ★★ Serial Driller | 20m, 9 | ||||
This route seems to have shed some rock in the last few months, seems to be getting easier.
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23 | ★ Sequels of the Light | 10m, 5 | ||||
Felt solid today on this.
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22 21 | ★★ Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I'm Talking to You Arsehole | 10m, 4 | ||||
20 21 | ★ Oh Joyous Lobotomy | 10m, 5 | ||||
Tue 10th Jan 2012 - Fruehauf | ||||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ||||
Sat 7th Jan 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Great Tier | ||||||
22 | ★★ Clouds of Obsession | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Never in doubt. Knowing eactly what gear to place (and having it all shamelessly pre racked on my harness in order of use) certainly made it feel easy. A really good pitch of climbing.
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21 | ★★ Schizophrenic | 70m, 24 | ||||
P1 only. Tony & Ian were climbing a route under P2, so we though it smart to not tempt fate on a 2nd ascent. Hard bouldery start. Well bolted pitch.
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Sat 7th Jan 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Neika Green Cliffs | ||||||
22 | ★ Supermassive Black Hole | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
A bit of poxy rock to start, but good value through the ohang and headwall.
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20 | ★ Confabulation | 10m, 5 | ||||
Friday night warm up.
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Mon 2nd Jan 2012 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Great Tier | ||||||
22 | ★★ Clouds of Obsession | 30m | ||||
No problem on tr. Guess ill have to go back & lead it clean.
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17 | ★★★ Blue Meridian | 90m | ★ Good | |||
Had to relocate the trad rack. Lots of wrong guesses about sizes. I think this route is not as good or well protected as the guide suggests.
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Tue 27th Dec 2011 - Adamsfield | ||||||
Bear Pit | ||||||
24 | ★ Get a Grip | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought this was ace. Steep and sustained, with long moves and uncomplicated footwork. Didnt find it particularly sharp. Dicy anchor clip the only problem.
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Tue 27th Dec 2011 - Adamsfield | ||||||
Pyramid Rock | ||||||
22 | ★ Soft | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Steepish. No hard moves, but hard to read, and pumpy.
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19 | She's Lump | 6m, 2 | Average | |||
Reachy climbing.
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17 | Millions of Pieces | 6m, 2 | Average | |||
Good short warm up
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19 | ★ Doon Buggy | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A bit contrived, but I enjoyed it.
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Sat 24th Dec 2011 - Fruehauf | ||||||
25 | ★★ Suck Ethics | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took the big whip from the last hard move twice (nice catches tom) before getting it third try. Awesome climb.
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20 | ★ Bondage and Discipline | 18m, 4 | ||||
Warm-up.
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Thu 22nd Dec 2011 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ||||
Up & downclimb to warm up.
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23 | ★ Bad Habits | 18m, 4 | ||||
Tue 20th Dec 2011 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ||||
24 | ★ Play Launch | 15m, 6 | ||||
With Anaphalaxis start.
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Sun 18th Dec 2011 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Neika Green Cliffs | ||||||
20 | ★ Confabulation | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not bad!
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22 | ★ Bad Books | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Took a lot of dogging to work out the bottom moves. Nice rock up high.
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21 | Harden Up | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Some suss rock, but nice moves. Had to retreat of the start and call for a stick clip. No 'hardening up' for me.
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21 | ★ Being Green | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Again much dogging required to work out the start. Im dubious about it being 21. Cool moment higher up when a foothold crumbled just at I grabbed a jug of the undercling. Full Tom Cruise style swing.
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Fri 16th Dec 2011 - Fruehauf | ||||||
23 | ★ Bad Habits | 18m, 4 | ||||
Draws on for tom.
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Wed 14th Dec 2011 - Fruehauf | ||||||
24 | ★ Play Launch | 15m, 6 | ||||
Direct start again too hard. Did Anaphalaxis start instead.
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20 | ★ Bondage and Discipline | 18m, 4 | ||||
23 | ★ Bad Habits | 18m, 4 | ||||
Tue 13th Dec 2011 - Fruehauf | ||||||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | ||||
Led up and down to warm up.
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24 | ★ Play Launch | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Cant do direct start. Clean tr with Anaphalaxis start (24). Pumpy.
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21 22 | ★ General Benefit (General Benefits) | 15m, 4 | ||||
Felt slghtly less hard than normal. Sweet.
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