Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 19th Aug 2013 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Nishimatazawa Taigan Chichi Iwa | ||||||
5.10c | Ku wa kuraimā no ku - with lead Rope Solo | 22m | Average | |||
5.9 | ★★ Ogawayama Street - with Lead Rope Solo | 26m, 5 | Average | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Ogawayama Story - with Lead Rope Solo | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 18th Aug 2013 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Hachimansawa Shuuhen Hachimansawa Hidari Iwa Slab | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ German suplex | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c | ★★★ German suplex | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 13th Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Kasameri Sawa Akibasho Rock | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tenshi no kaidan | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 13th Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Kasameri Sawa Motsurando | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Nanshi no Roof Crack (Unknown Roof Crack) - with Ken | 26m | ★ Good | |||
5.11c | ★★ Platinum - with Ken | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 11th Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Shichimen Iwa Hakusen Mi-ne | ||||||
★ 5.10a Off-Width | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
★ 5.10a Off-Width | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ 5.9 Fist - with Tomoko | 14m | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | 5.10a Corner - with Tomoko | 14m | Average | |||
Would be better once the lower section is cleaned. Some very lose rock for the first 1/3rd of climb.
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Sun 11th Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Shichimen Iwa Tousen Iwa | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Nanashi no Gonbee - with Ken | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 10th Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Fudousawa Saikaryuu Hebi Iwa | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Snake Pit - with Ken | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Would be a great route if we took the time to give this route a good clean.
There are some interesting moves on the route and could be more popular if this area saw more traffic.
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5.11a | ★ Snake Route Migi - with Ken | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Foot slipped out on the first try . This wasn't surprising because the route had only seen less then 5 ascents in the last 4 years and so was very slippery and dirty.
We did a bit of a clean and then got it the next try.
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5.10c | ★ Snake Route Left - with Ken | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 4th Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Kanmanboron | ||||||
5.11a | Departure - with Ken | 12m | ★ Good | |||
5.11d | ★★ Iwatsubame Sanjūrō - with Ken | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 3rd Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Fudō Sawa Byōbu Iwa Emperor Tower | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Emperor Jam - with Ken & Tomoko | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Yoromeki Crack - with Ken & Tomoko | ★ Good | ||||
Off Width. The is route is one of the gate keepers that is a must do before you can venture into the world of OW. A real test piece for the grade.
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Fri 2nd Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁 Hidari Ganpeki | ||||||
★★★ Berujuēru - with Rope Solo | 250m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This was my first Multi-pitch rope solo. The total round trip took 12 hours.
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Thu 1st Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Kasameri Sawa Akibasho Rock | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Nanashi no Gonbee - with Shigeta | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 1st Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Kasameri Sawa Motsurando | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Nanashi no Gonbee - with Shigeta | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
5.11c | ★★ Olive - with Shigeta | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c 5.10d | ★★ Laser's Edge - with Shigeta | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.11d | ★★ Tara Ko - with Shigeta | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very thin and technical boulder moves to reach a good stance parallel with the second bolt. The location of the second bolt loos wrong but you will find that it is located at the perfect location to prevent a ground fall.
This is a very committing climb.
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5.11b | ★ Mentaiko - with Shigeta | ★ Good | ||||
Nice sequence of powerful boulder moves to obtain the first three bolts. After this it is huge jugs all the way to the top. Nice fun climb worth a repeat.
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Thu 1st Aug 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Kasameri Sawa Akibasho Rock | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Nanashi no Gonbee | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 28th Jul 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Kasameri Sawa Akibasho Rock | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Walk On - with Ken + Tomoko | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Succeeded on my 2nd try. This is a classic climb that should be more popular.
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5.10a | ★★ Nanashi no Gonbee - with Ken + Tomoko | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing, slightly overhanging to begin with some interesting moves of the ground to a massive handle like jug. From here go up and traverse left under the overhang and then blast straight up the hand to fist size crack above. This is a great line and should be more popular.
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Sat 27th Jul 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Ebisu Iwa | ||||||
5.11b 5.11c | ★★ Ningen Sengen - with Ken + Tomoko | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got it on my second try
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Sun 14th Jul 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Mizugaki Bouldering Area Shinotani Shūhen Gari-gari Iwa | ||||||
V1 | ★★ 5 kyuu - with Takahiro | 4m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Sharishari Kun - with Takahiro | 3m | ||||
Sun 14th Jul 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Fudō Sawa Byōbu Iwa Emperor Tower | ||||||
5.11c A0 | Kōshitsu e no Shōtai - with Takahiro | 45m | Average | |||
This line would be much better if it was cleaned a bit. The scale and dirt on the route takes the edge of what could be a great slab route.
If you don't like slabs stay away from this route. Pitch two of the climb feels much harder then 5.11c.
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5.7 | ★★ Samu Zamu Route - with Takahiro | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 14th Jul 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Fudō Sawa Byōbu Iwa shōmen kabe | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Kouga - with Ken | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★ Fudōsawa Aikōkai Route - with Ken | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 13th Jul 2013 - Mizugaki Yama | ||||||
Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁 Toitimen ima Mattan Heki /十一面岩末端壁 | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Astro Dome | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Jul 2013 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Worrying Heights | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fantastic
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20 | ★★★ Cock Crack - with Luke | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great off-width and face climbing. I had to have a scary run-out since I only had one #4 and one #3 and two #2 cams to protect the 40m route.
Definitely could have done with two #5 and another #4.
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20 | ★★★ Odin - with Luke | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
18 | ★ Straight Man's Fear - with Luke | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 5th Jul 2013 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Monty Python's Flying Circus - with Luke | 25m | ★ Good | |||
24 | ★★★ Impulse - with Luke | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got this second attempt. I missed the onsite by 1 move. Instead of stepping right I went for the direct finish which has not been freed yet.
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22 | ★★★ Child in Time - with Luke | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
More like a Retro Flash, my last unsuccessful attempt on this climb was back in August 2010. I climbed it clean 1st attempt.
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22 | ★★★ Black Light - with Luke | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A thin start that looked hard until you found the numerous edges to stand on. The finger locks and thin hands worked well provided you kept upward moment. Look hard for the thin edges, it makes the climb miles easier.
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16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution - with Luke | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Always a classic. A real joy to warm up on.
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Thu 4th Jul 2013 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
19 19 R | ★ Dysentery DF - with Josh.G | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★ Cucumber Castle - with Joshua. G | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Flew in from Melbourne and headed straight for Crag. Climbed at night 8:00pm under flood lights. First tima back at KP since 2011.
Lead the climb clean first go. It felt very smooth and controlled. It actually felt easy this time around!!!
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Sun 30th Jun 2013 - Hayes Creek | ||||||
Trad Gully Sports Plus / Vodka Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Sports Plus - with Mike | 22m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 30th Jun 2013 - Col's Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★★ So where the bloody hell are you? - with Mike | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is a classic climb, great combination of power and technique. This is classic Test piece for the grade.
Jason, you are becoming a legend route setter, this is another classic line.
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23 24 | ★★★ You'll never never know if you never never go - with Mike | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Missed the on-sight by 1 move. Rested for 20min then attempted again and got the send on the second attempt. This is a great line but probably not a 24. I would reckon it is 23.
It is classic climb. Good work Leigh you are putting up some good lines. |
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Sat 29th Jun 2013 - Hayes Creek | ||||||
Trad Gully The Nursery | ||||||
13 | Weather Vain | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
Sat 29th Jun 2013 - Hayes Creek | ||||||
Trad Gully The Sanctuary | ||||||
19 | ★★ Gobby Jug - with Mike | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wasn't taking the climb serious and my foot slipped, I missed the off sight.
Lowered straight away and then made the next send.
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10 | ★ Safe Haven - with Mike | 18m | Average | |||
22 | ★ The - with Mike | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Very thin face climbing. The first move can be protected by slinging the tree root that winds up the left hand side of the route.
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18 | Bavarian Bum Burner | 9m | ||||
If you don't know how to finger lock then this climb will feel very difficult.
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19 | Where Dick Goes Down | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
The crux is a huge mantle move over the overhang to a rest at 5m. This route is a one move wonder (Sand bag, 19 grade) The move across to the mantle and the mantle move should probably be graded 20.
Past this the climb is easy and probably a grade 16.
Great Mantle move is the crux and definitely a test piece for grade 19.
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Sat 29th Jun 2013 - Hayes Creek | ||||||
Trad Gully The Nursery | ||||||
6 | ★ Storm in a Teacup | 20m | Average | |||
9 | ★ Fairweather Sailor - with Mike | 21m | Average | |||
Solo Ascent and Down Climb
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9 | ★ Fairweather Sailor - with Mike | 21m | Average | |||
9 | ★ Fairweather Sailor - with Mike | 21m | Average | |||
Solo Down climb
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13 | ★ Cyclone Racheal - with Mike | 22m | Average | |||
Sat 29th Jun 2013 - Hayes Creek | ||||||
Spider Gully | ||||||
13 | Ride My Ramp | 15m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
20 | ★★ Skunk Hour | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★ Black Betty | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Coming home after long day climbing I was was told that the top rope set up that I had left in the morning was still set up because no was was able to climb the top rope to bring it down. I had to climb the route again to bring down my gear. Problem was that I forgot to bring my shoes up from the car so I decided to climb Bare foot.
Success!!! My hardest Bare foot climb thus far.
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19 | ★ Black Betty | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 28th Jun 2013 - Hayes Creek | ||||||
Spider Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ Anthrax | 28m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Anthrax | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed this at 10pm at night. This is the hardest on-sight night climb that I have done so far, pretty exciting climbing.
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Sun 23rd Jun 2013 - Hayes Creek | ||||||
Spider Gully | ||||||
24 | ★★ Red Bull and Chico Babies - with Gavin | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
19 | ★★ Palmerstone - with Gavin & Angie | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Beat Root - with Gavin & Angie | 21m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★ Linkshänder | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another nice climb. Shares the same start as Red bull & Chico Babies, at the second bolt take the obvious diagonal line to the left.
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Sat 22nd Jun 2013 - Hayes Creek | ||||||
Spider Gully | ||||||
20 | ★ Beth and the Butterflies | 25m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
This is only worth trying if you have completed everything else.
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20 | ★★ Spanner in the Works - with Meg | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
24 | ★★ Red Bull and Chico Babies | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic Climb. Very crimpy and technical. The moves are very diverse and sustained and combine to make a great line. This is probably the best line in Spider Gully.
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22 | ★★ Bougainvillea - with Meg | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Lead climbed again to set another Top Rope anchor for other climbers.
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22 | ★★ Bougainvillea - with Meg | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Not a bad run however the more natural line up this wall is still "Palmerstone".
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Sun 9th Jun 2013 - Tanigawa Dake | ||||||
★★ Ichinosawa ・ Oujou Ganpeki - with Sato | ★★ Very Good | |||||
IV | ★★ Ichinosawa ・ Oujou Ganpeki - with Sato、Honnma、 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 8th Jun 2013 - Kuro Iwa | ||||||
South Minami Face | ||||||
5.11a | Tsuru no Tomo - with Sato | 5 | Average | |||
5.11a | ★ Nishi Ryō #18 Route (Nishi Ryou) - with Sato | 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Okera | Average | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Gaku Yukai Route - with Sato | 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Gaku Yukai Route - with Sato | 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.11b | ★★ Tsuru - with Sato | ★ Good | ||||
5.10c | ★★ kyonshii (kyonshin) - with Sato | ★ Good | ||||
5.10b | Raacona - with Sato | Average | ||||
Thu 6th Jun 2013 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Hachimansawa Shuuhen Hachimansawa Hidari Iwa Slab | ||||||
5.7 | Haru no Modori Yuki - with Family | 5 | Average | |||
Wed 5th Jun 2013 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Mawarime Daira Shuhen Mori no Naka no Boulder Kujira Iwa | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Eihab Senchou | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Eihab Senchou | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 5th Jun 2013 - Ogawayama | ||||||
Mawarime Daira Shuhen Campsite Boulder D Boulder | ||||||
V0 | Kante Hidari - with Takahiro | |||||
Mon 3rd Jun 2013 - Yukawa | ||||||
5.9 | ★ KITA KAZE KOZOU - with Takahiro | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Jun 2013 - Yukawa | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Degenaa | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★ Degenaa | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ TSUBU KAKUSAN | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Cork Screw | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Cork Screw | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Cork Screw | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 31st May 2013 - Tenno Iwa | ||||||
Upper Rock Area | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Hat - with Takahiro | 22m | ★ Good |