Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 17th Sep 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Cala Gonone Linie 8 | ||||||
8- | ★★★ Mancher wird weiß (Struktur) | 13m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tue 17th Sep 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Raily Beach Linie 107 | ||||||
7- 7-/7 | Five Minutes More | 13m | ||||
6- | Notab | 13m | ||||
Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Känzele | ||||||
Wanzenburgboulder | ||||||
6- | ★★ Operation Hinkelstein (Operation Hinkel) - with Anika | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Im Vergleich fast schon henkelig. Schwerer Einstieg.
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6- | ★★ Paradiesvogel - with Nicky | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sehr schön homogen, für mich die beste Linie hier.
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Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Känzele | ||||||
Ameisenpfad | Kipit | ||||||
7- | ★★ Ameisenpfad - with Nicky | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Toll! Schier endloses Kieselgeziehe ohne echte Schlüsselstelle. Und die versprochenen Ameisen waren auch nicht da.
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Sat 14th Sep 2019 - Känzele | ||||||
Wanzenburgboulder | ||||||
6 6-/6 | ★★ Green mile - with Nicky | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Oben recht knackig...
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6 5+/6- | ★★ Jolly Jumper - with Sandra † | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 14th Sep 2019 - Känzele | ||||||
Via Johanna | ||||||
6+ | ★ Keuchhusten - with Sandra † | 15m | Average | |||
Sehr hart am Anfang. Im Schnitt vielleicht schon 6+, die oberen 2/3 sind eher 4er Gelände...
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4+ | ★ Gärtnerstolz - with Nicky | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Gehört mal wieder ausgefegt
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Thu 5th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6b | ★ Avlentu - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Have to correct myself: purely on the wall without arete goes, and solid 6b seems reasonable.
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6b+ 6c+ | ★★ Aficíon y desorden - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Weather didn't hold, but overhanging enough to be dry Not that hard if you know the way. And not 6c+ for sure.
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Wed 4th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Aficíon y desorden - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Project for tomorrow if the weather holds!
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Wed 4th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c 7a+ | El capitan Memo - with Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
Got it! Used a bit the dihedral half a metre to the right in the easier upper part for security reasons (last two bolts are very rusty), but purely on the wall goes quite easily, too. What should I say? For me 6c max, quite reachy however.
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Wed 4th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
6a 6b | ★ Avientu (Avlentu) - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice and very soft for 6b. Maybe defined without the arete? But that would be illogical (and very hard).
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6a+ | ★ Koko Beach - with Sandra † | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fight, short and intense. Found it quite stiff for the grade.
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Wed 4th Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
5a 5 | ★ La Central - with Sandra † | 14m | ||||
Very warm (up)
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Tue 3rd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c | El capitan Memo - with Sandra † | 17m, 6 | ||||
2 really hard moves out of the tufa, easy upper half. Seems pretty soft to me for 7a+, being tall helps for sure.
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Tue 3rd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Mar | ||||||
6b | ★ Esclavo de Amor - with Sandra † | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not harder than 'El Cielo Puede Esperar'.
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6a | ★★ El Cielo Puede Esperar - with Sandra † | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Reachy move out of the tufa, committing after. Not so easy.
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Tue 3rd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Oculto | ||||||
6a | ★ Makina de discutir - with Sandra † | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty stiff start, upper part needs some gardening - got some blackberry thorns stuck in my nose
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Tue 3rd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6a | ★★ Paisaje vs Paisanaje - with Sandra † | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue
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Mon 2nd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Playa | ||||||
4a 4 | ★★ Don't Push the Red Button - with Sandra †, Jarno | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 2nd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Oculto | ||||||
4a 4 | ★★ Verano Fukishima - with Sandra †, Jarno | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 2nd Sep 2019 - Oriente | ||||||
Cuevas del Mar Cuevas | ||||||
6c | ★ El Paso Residual - with Sandra † | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Solved with an over-the-head kneebar / heelhook, which turned the fierce crux almost into a no-hand
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6a+ | ★★ El Repris de Rafita - with Sandra † | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit polished, but nice climb out of the cave
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6a | ★★ Paisaje vs Paisanaje - with Sandra † | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
What a cool place: nice beach, a bar, sunshine and lots of routes to do, what do you want more?
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Fri 30th Aug 2019 - Marabio | ||||||
Los Bloques | ||||||
6b | El murin - with Sandra † | 17m | Average | |||
Only toprope due to rusty bolts. Too close to 'La fea' and not an own line.
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5+ | ★★ La fea - with Sandra † | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and varied climbing.
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5+ | La placa - with Sandra † | 23m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Quite cruxy in the middle, upper half very easy.
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Wed 28th Aug 2019 - Serra da Freita | ||||||
Campismo | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Diedro - with Sandra † | 6m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard, short, and not bad. Nice roped boulder problem...
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5 | ★★ Escada rolante - with Sandra † | 7m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
And another sandbag slab. What a fight...
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5 | Estrelinha Real - with Sandra † | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
The planned easy evening session turned out to be a real challenge. Slab, really short but what a sandbag!
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3 | ★ Via do pastor - with Sandra †, Arvin, Jarno | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Found a little sector behind the camping. Evening family climb.
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Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Redinha | ||||||
Bivaque do Caracol | ||||||
★★★ Bivaque do Caracol - with Sandra † | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Quickdraw rescue after Sandra † failed to do the job
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6b 5+ | ★★★ Bivaque do Caracol - with Sandra † | ★★★ Classic | ||||
"Only 5+ in guide, but looks like 6c and very cool, let's see". Crazy short route, tufas, roof, hidden jugs & big fun.
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4c 4+ | ★★ Versos Satânicos (Versos Satanicos) - with Sandra † | ★ Good | ||||
Steep & quite stiff for the grade. Not good for the kids.
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6a+ | ★★ Cocó Ranheta e Facada (Coco Ranheta e Facada) - with Sandra † | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Would be classic if a bit longer. A bit escapable to the left, hard start out of the bulge.
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Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Redinha | ||||||
Árvore | ||||||
6b | ★★ Diedro dos Físicos (Diedro dos Fisicos) - with Sandra † | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Looked much easier than it actually was. Strange positions, strange moves. Nice one, though.
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Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Redinha | ||||||
Parque (left) | ||||||
6b 6a+ | ★ Diga a Frase - with Sandra † | Average | ||||
Several rusty bolts (new glue-in screws already in place)
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Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Redinha | ||||||
Caveira (right) | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Orelha - with Sandra † | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice climbing along the big caves
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Wed 21st Aug 2019 - Farol da Guia | ||||||
Bloco Escadas | ||||||
6a | ★★ Utopia | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★★ Bicepes - with Sandra †, Arvin, Jarno | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
The name committs. A bit too polished for my taste.
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3 | ★ Dragon Ball - with Sandra †, Arvin, Jarno | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pure plaisir, but really not boring. Recommended!
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6a | ★★ Utopia - with Sandra †, Arvin, Jarno | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, very technical and pretty stiff for the grade.
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Mon 19th Aug 2019 - Sintra | ||||||
Capuchos Ovo | ||||||
4 | ★★ Água Mineral - with Sandra †, Jarno, Antonio | ★ Good | ||||
Not a 4, more like a 1C
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5 | ★★ Ovo Rachado - with Sandra †, Jarno, Antonio | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice crack onto the egg.
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Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Reguengo do Fetal | ||||||
Tripeiro | ||||||
6a | ★ Tripas à moda do Porto - with Sandra †, Jarno | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Hard bouldery start, then easy.
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6a | ★★ Penso logo desisto - with Sandra †, Jarno | 12m | ★ Good | |||
6a only if you don't escape the difficulties to the right. Straight up really not that easy.
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6a+ | ★★ Acção indirecta - with Sandra †, Jarno | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice but pretty short line, looks harder than it is.
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Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Reguengo do Fetal | ||||||
Lágrimas | ||||||
6b | ★★ Chaparro - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
From the start very nice climbing with a hard and reachy crux at the end.
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6a | ★ Depois só mais difícil - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Either good holds or good feet, but never both and a nasty traverse in the upper part
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Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Serra da Estrela | ||||||
Pedra do Urso Tubarão Pro Activ | ||||||
V1 | ★★★ Acesso alpinista - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Such a cool looking blank block, totally inaccessible almost everywhere. Jump to jug and mantle up!
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Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Serra da Estrela | ||||||
Pedra do Urso Tubarão Pornográfico | ||||||
VB | Caminho da família - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | Average | ||||
VB | Caminho da senhora - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | Average | ||||
Fri 2nd Aug 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Raily Beach Linie 104 | ||||||
7 7/7+ | Down To My Boat | 13m | ||||
Ausdauer pur, fast sind die Unterarme geplatzt. Hopfen zur Druckminderung rät der Arzt!
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Fri 2nd Aug 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Raily Beach Linie 109 | ||||||
7 7- | Salzwasser | 13m | ||||
Sicher keine 7/7+, eher 6/6+. Aber am Stalaktiten ist's trotzdem immer cool!
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Fri 2nd Aug 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Raily Beach Linie 108 | ||||||
8 | The Wonder | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yep, fütter mein Ego! Sehr schöne Kletterei; wenn auch wohl etwas überbewertet.
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7 7- | Association | 13m | ||||
7 | Association | 13m | ||||
Fri 2nd Aug 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Raily Beach Linie 103 | ||||||
7- | Sweet Soul Music (Volcano) | 13m | ||||
7- | Sweet Soul Music (Volcano) | 13m | ||||
Tue 9th Jul 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Cala Gonone Linie 1 | ||||||
7+ 8- | ★★★ Stoneland (Struktur) | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Durch die zusätzlichen Pyramiden links ist die 2. Crux dahin, nur ist es deswegen 7+ oder immer noch 8-?
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7+ | ★★★ Stoneland (Struktur) | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 9th Jul 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Ceüse Linie 49 | ||||||
8- | Funky Nassau | 13m | ||||
Alzheimer-Onsight, irgendwann schonmal vergeigt.
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Tue 9th Jul 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Massone Linie 24 | ||||||
7+ | Could've Been | 13m | ||||
Tue 9th Jul 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Schleier Linie 116 | ||||||
7 | Cordula Gin | 13m | ||||
Nicht ohne im vertikalen Teil
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7 | Cordula Gin | 13m | ||||
Tue 9th Jul 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Kalymnos Linie 120 | ||||||
6+ | Moonglow - with heike horlacher | 13m | ||||
6+ | Moonglow - with heike horlacher | 13m | ||||
Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Raily Beach Linie 109 | ||||||
7 | 500 PS | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Kalymnos Linie 117 | ||||||
7+ | Loca | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sehr sehr super - Knifflige Untergriffparty!
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Tue 2nd Jul 2019 - DAV Kletter- und Boulderzentrum Gilching | ||||||
Raily Beach Linie 103 | ||||||
6+ | Whatcha Gonna Do? - with heike horlacher | 13m | ||||
6+ | Whatcha Gonna Do? - with heike horlacher | 13m | ||||
Thu 27th Jun 2019 - Kochel | ||||||
Atlantiswand Atlantis | ||||||
7- | ★★ Probier's mal mit Gemütlichkeit - with Georg, Kollegen | 32m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Für mich die beste Kochelroute bisher. Fordernde und anders als der Name eher ungemütliche Traumverschneidung an wie mit dem Messer geschnittenen Fels, 30m freihängend abseilen über den Überhang. Genial, wird demnächst gepunktet. #Betriebsausflug
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Thu 27th Jun 2019 - Kochel | ||||||
Erdbeerwand | ||||||
5- | ★ Abgelehnt - with Georg, Kollegen | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
4 | ★ Debohrator - with Georg, Kollegen | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
4 | Ärdbärhund - with Georg, Kollegen | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sonne, 34 Grad, schwül. Ein perfekter Tag um klettern zu gehen
#Betriebsausflug
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Fri 21st Jun 2019 - Vosges du Nord | ||||||
Rocher du Point de Vue Face ouest | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Moulinette autorisée - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route with diverse moves, the crux is to get over the blank ramp in the middle.
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6a | ★ Wonder-bras - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Boulder start, 2nd half overhanging fun on jugs.
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6a+ | Longhorn - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | Don't Bother | ||||
Similar than 'Coup de bouse', but probably a tad easier!?
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5c | Coup de bouse - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | Don't Bother | ||||
Extremely short, steep & powerful, ends in the moss. Very very hard for the grade, more a boulder than a route. Not recommended (should have read the route's name before)
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Wed 19th Jun 2019 - Vosges du Nord | ||||||
Château du Waldeck Courant d'air | ||||||
5c | ★★★ Courant d'air - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow, great route at this grade! Really long, airy and only nice moves. Like climbing into the sky, could go on forever
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Wed 19th Jun 2019 - Vosges du Nord | ||||||
Château du Waldeck Corbytheque | ||||||
6b | La limace visqueuse - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Awkward crux
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5c | ★★ Moule à gaufre - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool bouldery climbing on huge flakes
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5c | ★ Rougail saucisse - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | ★ Good | ||||
Even in 2nd try pumpy and tricky in the upper part. Bad Warm-up.
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Tue 18th Jun 2019 - Vosges du Midi | ||||||
Roches Plates L'allemande | ||||||
5b | ★ CV express - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 12m | ★ Good | |||
5c | ★★ Vasipolette - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 11m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fels immer noch komisch, aber echt cool zu klettern!
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6a | ★★ Sois belle - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6a | ★★ L´allemande - with Arvin, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 14th Jun 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Apremont Apremont Butte aux Dames Blue circuit D (N°2) | ||||||
4A | ★★★ La Fissure Parfaite - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra † | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tatsächlich ein perfekter Riss, allerdings als "Dülfer" zu klettern wie der Franzose sagt.
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5A | ★ Voyage au Bout du Grès - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra † | ★ Good | ||||
4A | ★ Les Croissants - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra † | ★ Good | ||||
Megaschwül, kein Tag für ernsthaftes anziehen
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4A | ★ Les Sacoches - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra † | ★ Good | ||||
4A | ★ Le Coin à Raoul - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra † | ★ Good | ||||
4C | ★★ Mur Mur - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra † | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 14th Jun 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Apremont Apremont Butte aux Dames Orange circuit AD+ (N°1) | ||||||
2C | C'est Ça Ksé Bom - with Arvin | |||||
3B | Ça m'est Égal - with Arvin | |||||
Thu 13th Jun 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons West 95.2 Blue circuit (nº 1) D | ||||||
4C | ★★ Boulet Rouge - with Sandra †, Arvin, Jarno | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 11th Jun 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
North Fontainebleau Rocher Saint-Germain East Off circuit boulders | ||||||
6A | ★ Le Bijoux direct | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Naja, 6A ist wohl eher übertrieben, FunBloc-Grad halt. Aber schon ganz nett.
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