Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5.12d | ★★★ Devil Doll | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd Oct 2007 | ||||
Often over looked climb that breaks left after first 3 bolts on Lactic Acid Bath. Last couple of moves are frequently wet due to run off; unfortunately they are not gimme moves but still doable if moist. Well worth a run if the top looks dry.
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5.12b 5.12c | ★★ Minstrel in the Gallery | 21m | Red Rock | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.12a 5.12b | ★★★ Thieves In The Temple | 24m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.12a | Fantasy Face | 24m, 6 | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Schneezal | 30m, 10 | Meadow River | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Apr 2007 | |||
The book states 8 bolts, plan for two extra bolts and the full use of a 60m rope.
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5.12a | ★★ Fine Motor Control | 26m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.12a | ★★ M.E.N.S.A. | 15m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11d | ★★ All the Right Moves | 24m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Hooked On Bionics | 9m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.12a 5.11d | ★★ Sweet Pain | 15m, 5 | Red Rock | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11c | ★ Doer, Not A Critic | 15m | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11c | Andoullie | Meadow River | Average | Mon 14th Jul 2008 | ||||
5.11c | ★ Stim-O-Stam | 21m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Sister of Pain | 20m | Red Rock | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11c | Andoullie | Meadow River | Sun 4th Mar 2007 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ Bikini Line | 24m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.11c | ★ Mr. Fantasy | 14m | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | |||
5.11c | Andoullie | Meadow River | Mon 14th Jul 2008 | |||||
5.11c | Andoullie | Meadow River | Average | Sun 4th Mar 2007 | ||||
5.11d 5.11c | ★★★ Yaak Crack | 15m | Red Rock | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Barb Wire | 26m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Wild Seed | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11b | Aquatic Ecstasy | 12m | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Stone Wave | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Mar 2008 | ||||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent climb, starts with in a roof and continues through roofy bulge with a crack that continues throught the head wall.
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5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | Meadow River | Mon 14th Jul 2008 | ||||
5.11b | ★★★ Fuzzy Undercling | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
They don't get much more fun than this
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5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | Meadow River | Sun 4th Mar 2007 | ||||
5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | Meadow River | Average | Sun 4th Mar 2007 | |||
5.11b | ★ Not on the First Date | 17m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Slave to the Grind | 20m | Red Rock | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Smore Energy | 26m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11b | ★ Oh, It's You Bob | 21m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11a | ★ Grit and Bear It | 17m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11a | ★ Maypop | 15m, 4 | Red River Gorge | Don't Bother | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10d 5.11a | ★★ Cross-Eyed and Blind | 24m, 6 | Meadow River | ★ Good | Sun 4th Mar 2007 | |||
5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.11b 5.11a | ★★ Glitter Gulch | 20m | Red Rock | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Mellifluus | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10d | ★ Possum Lips | 12m | Red River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10d | ★ Load | Meadow River | Average | Tue 1st Jul 2008 | ||||
Good warm up for the area
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5.10d | Chameleon | 15m | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | |||
short
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5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack | 110m | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Jun 2007 | |||
Partnered with Bill. Lead pitches 1&2. The bolt was removed from the first pitch protecting the first 30 feet of climbing. Managed to get in a .75 with two lobes at about 15 feet, and good piece right next to where the bolt used to be located.
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5.10d | ★★ Lieback and Enjoy It | 18m, 7 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.10d | ★ Load | Meadow River | Tue 1st Jul 2008 | |||||
5.10d | Boing | 21m | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10d | ★★★ Oz | 150m, 10 | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 12th Jun 2007 | |||
Partnered with Bill. I lead pitches 1 & 3. Pitch 1 is a little run out at the start, but all there. Pitch 3, dihedral is one of the most enjoyable pitches I've done.
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5.10d | ★ Hot Flash | 18m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 24th Jun 2005 | |||
Trad. No anchors. Schetchy top out on moss roots.
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5.10d | ★ Load | Meadow River | ★ Good | Tue 1st Jul 2008 | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Finger Lockin' Good | 15m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 23rd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent finger crack. Mega Classic of the area for a reason, although I think the 10c rating may be pushing it by two letter grades or more.
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5.10c | ★★ Points O' Contact | 27m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent finger to roof to finger crack.
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5.10c | ★★ Kinesthetica | 27m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10c | ★★ First Steps | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Digital Macabre | 23m | Tennessee Wall | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Pulling through the roof was not all that difficult and is not the crux of the climb.
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5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10b | ★ Glass Onion | 23m, 5 | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed wit Bill M. Starts on "spider wand" off width, wrap around corner about halfway to fun face crack.
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5.10b | Second Thoughts | 17m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 5.10b | ★★★ Crescent Arch | 150m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Jun 2007 | |||
Partnered with Bill. I lead pitches 1 & 3. Excellent climb. 2nd & 3rd pitches are just plain fun and the 4th pitch is stellar.
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10b | ★ Fantasy Direct Finish | 38m | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Face crack.
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5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | New River Gorge | Average | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Orangeaid | 38m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent line, dihedral under roof back to face crack.
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5.10b | ★★★ Springboard | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Mushrooms | 24m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Aug 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Face Crack.
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5.10a | ★ Sixth Sense | 17m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Pollux | 12m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10a | ★ Totally Tammy | 18m | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Cottonmouth | 27m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.10a | ★ Ben Dunne | Meadow River | Average | Sun 4th Mar 2007 | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | 20m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★ Sunshine | 15m | Red River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy | 170m | Yosemite National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jul 2002 | |||
Climbed with Bill
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5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | New River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Marshall's Madness | 50m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.9 | Celtic Sun | 15m, 5 | New River Gorge | Average | Sun 17th Sep 2006 | |||
5.9 | ★ Moonbeam | 15m | Red River Gorge | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Super Chicken | Yosemite National Park | ★ Good | Sun 10th Jun 2007 | ||||
First pitch not much to write home about. Second pitch very nice
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5.9 | ★★★ In Pursuit of Excellence | 27m | Tennessee Wall | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 23rd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent corner hand crack, extremely fun.
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5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | |||
Excellent route, though a little short.
Mike K & Bill |
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5.9 | ★ Bullocks | 15m, 4 | Meadow River | Average | Sun 22nd Apr 2007 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Razor Worm | 32m | Tennessee Wall | Average | Sat 22nd Mar 2008 | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Leisure crack climbing. Little short due to starting at the top of a 25' block.
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5.8 | ★★ The Burn | 29m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy | 40m | New River Gorge | Average | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | |||
5.8 | ★ Jeff's Bunny Hop | 21m, 6 | Summersville Lake | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Alcoa Presents | 30m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Conn's East Direct Start | 34m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.8 | ★ Sniff the Drill | 21m, 6 | Summersville Lake | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.8 | ★★★ Triple S | 27m | Seneca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.8 | ★★★ Frogland | 290m | Red Rock | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Sep 2006 | |||
Climbed with Bill. Six pitches. Fun, cruser climbing. Completed the route in about 3-3.5 hours.
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5.7 5.7 R | ★★ Hobbit Book | 200m, 1 | Yosemite National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 12th Jun 2007 | |||
Partnered with Bill. We did this after OZ to round out the day. Fun climb. The run out face climbing on pitch 3 is nothing to worry about despite the description in Supertopo; very solid rock with easy climbing. I wouldn't expect anyone solid at 5.8 would have any problems, the issue would be keeping a cool head. You can also sling some of the flakes.
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5.7 | ★★★ Pleasant Overhangs | 88m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
If you are looking for exposure, it is here.
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5.7 | ★ That Eight | 21m, 5 | Summersville Lake | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.7 | ★★★ West Pole | 41m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 |