Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 10th Sep 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron North Apron | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Whirlwind - with Deano and Simon | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell on p4, trying to stick to the arete too much. Whole route is quite dirty.
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Thu 8th Sep 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Neat and Cool | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Raging Duck | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Not the best gear, and not the best climb!
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5.8 | ★ Stumps | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.6 | ★★ Cat Crack | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Sally Five Fingers | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 15th Aug 2016 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Little LuLu | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★ 3M | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Shake your lettuce | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than I remembered. Really nice climbing.
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5.10b | ★★ Dynamic Duo | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 12th Aug 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Boulder Gully | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Talking Holds - with Deano | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun, and a pumpy warmup!
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5.11b 5.11c | ★★ Turbocharger - with Deano | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Second shot. Took too long trying to place gear after bolts on first shot. Gear is completely bomb-proof, and not that hard to place once you figure out where! Yellow metolious in finger crack, which is easily passed.
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Fri 12th Aug 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Supervalue | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue - with Deano | 35m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great fun, and has a few marginal moves going around the arete. Longer than I expected!
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Thu 11th Aug 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
The Sanctuary The Basement | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Placebo | 9m | Average | |||
As the guide says, not the best warm-up. A pretty ugly climb, really. Nowhere near two stars!
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5.11d | ★ Pleasure Dome | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second shot. Dyno past the 4th bolt cuts out a lots of moves. Once the sequence was figured out, was easy enough to go fast and beat the pump.
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Thu 11th Aug 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Magic Carpet Ride - with Deano | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing. Hard to get off the ground, and a long way to the first clip, but rest of p1 fairly easy, with a harder step left at about 2/3 height. Second pitch gets 11a in the guide, but is definitely the hardest/most sustained. Awesome slabbing. p3 has a couple of hardish moves, but generally felt easier than p2. p4 fairly straight-forwards, with one slightly harder move going past the 4th(?) bolt.
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Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Century Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Unknown | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Amphitheater | ||||||
5.11a 5.11b | ★★ Addicted to War (Unknown 2) | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Century Wall | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Quarter Century Girl - with Deano | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One slip and one sit. Would definitely feel soft with a bit of endurance. Almost all jugs, with a couple of great rests on the way.
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Mon 8th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Amphitheater | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ You Enjoy Myself - with Deano | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pumped out the first time, got it second go just fine. Easy moves, just steep!
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Sun 7th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Amphitheater | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Fuzzy Slippers (Unknown 1) | 15m | Average | |||
Got too pumped trying to figure which way to go. Not the most inspiring route here.
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5.12b | ★★★ Moonraker - with Deano | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Found the mid-height crux hard, but apparently I missed a pocket...Almost let go just before the anchors. Just the one go. Couple of falls midway, and one sit higher up.
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Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Stage Right | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Isa's Eyes | 25m | Average | |||
Sharp rock! Becomes more fun with height.
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Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Century Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Lee'king - with Deano | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Horne Lake | ||||||
Stage Right | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Body p1 - with Deano | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.11b | ★★★ The Body p2 - with Deano | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had a fall at the flake just before the chert bands. For some reason, we thought there was only 9 bolts on the second pitch, but there's 12! Super pumpy just before the chert bands, easing off after second bolt into chert.
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Sat 2nd Jul 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Olesen Creek Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Wiretap - with Tim and Deano | 120m | ★ Good | |||
Linked pitches 1 and 2. First pitch trickier than expected, and third pitch is great fun. Rambling but fun final couple of pitches.
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5.10b | ★★ Thriller on the Pillar - with Tim and Deano | 35m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice climbing, with a couple of places where it's easy to go the wrong side of the cracks.
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Fri 1st Jul 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Gobsmacking Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Chewbacca - with Deano | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed in two pitches, linking first two. More like 80m, but great climbing. Each pitch felt about the same difficulty to me.
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Fri 1st Jul 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Papoose | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Mercury Vapor - with Deano | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Transit of Venus - with Deano | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome. Huge variation between pitches, and all of it great fun.
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Wed 29th Jun 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Fern Hill | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Burp the Worm - with Deano | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Made me sweat, especially getting the final jug. Some pretty burly parts, but unfortunately (fortunate for me) it's not very sustained.
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5.11a | ★ Solitary Confinment - with Deano | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Followed Deano up. Very distinct cruxy moves, with a bit of reach helping towards the top.
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5.11a | ★★ Typical Squamish - with Deano | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed after Deano. It might be dirtier than a lot of the other climbs here, but it climbs really well.
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Tue 28th Jun 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Petrifying Wall DOA Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Underwire | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Good fun, with a thankfully good jug after the roof.
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5.10b | ★★ Heavy Petting Action | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unexpectedly long, and climbs very well. A bit confusing right at the top, trying not to cross onto the route to the left.
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Tue 28th Jun 2016 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Petrifying Wall Pleasant Pheasant Area | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Pleasant Pheasant - with Deano | 22m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gets you pumped if you're unfit, but otherwise pretty simple climbing.
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Mon 2nd May 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Cave Hill Slab | ||||||
5.3 | ★★★ The Caves - with Janet and Shauna | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Much more fun than expected. Would have been even better if the photocopier was longer though!
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Mon 2nd May 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Stouthearted | 34m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Plum Line | 34m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Definitely easier than the climbs to either side, but just such fun climbing!
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5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Sagging Bumline | 36m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The new guide gives it 5.9, but it's harder than Plum Line and Stout Hearted, especially near the top. Good run-outs!
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Morning Glory | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Black Acid | 14m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great fun, Steep and juggy with incut sidepulls.
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5.10 | ★★ Supercharger | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Steep start! Crux off the ground, with another slightly difficult section above the lip
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5.11a | ★★ Villainous | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy access to upper pitch
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5.11a | ★★ Totally Villainous | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Combined with Villainous into one pitch. Had to rest on second last bolt. Next time!
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Claim It All | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Piggy Monster | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Felt tough for a 5.9 warm-up! But perhaps I'm just soft.
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5.10a | ★ Homers Wake | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good fun, making me think in a couple of spots
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Odyssey | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definite cruxy section near the top
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Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Claim It All | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Faint Hope Claws - with Janet | 24m, 9 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Fathers Day - with Janet | 22m | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Stubborn Streak - with Janet | 25m | ||||
5.9 | ★ lliad - with Janet | 25m | ||||
Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Skaha | ||||||
Morning Glory | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Red Dawg - with Janet | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Blue Bull - with Janet | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 18th Jan 2016 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Brown Madonna - with Tom Remenyi, dave | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
following dave. great, long single pitch. chimney is really easy, just run-out. short cruxy sections of fist and offwidth higher up.
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Mon 18th Jan 2016 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Great Tier | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Blue Meridian - with Tom Remenyi, dave | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 11th Jan 2016 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Step Tier | ||||||
15 16 | ★★★ Moonraker - with paul | 70m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 1st Oct 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron Squamish Buttress | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ The Squamish Buttress - with Shauna | 210m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun rambling for first 4 pitches, then when you start to want some real climbing, you're at the base of the 10c pitch, Awesome, sustained and involved climbing on this guy. Makes you work hard for the grade.
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Thu 1st Oct 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron Above Broadway | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Memorial Crack - with Shauna | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 1st Oct 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron North Apron | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ St. Vitus' Dance - with Shauna | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wed 30th Sep 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief Dihedrals | ||||||
5.11a 5.11b | ★ Millennium Falcon - with Shauna | 500m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Only climbed to Bellygood, but led everything except the two 5.8 pitches above the 11a. Linked the next two 10d pitches together, would be much better with roller draws, and if the corner crack wasn't dripping!
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Tue 29th Sep 2015 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Little LuLu - with Barb | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★ 3M - with Barb | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a 5.9 | Moss Pit - with Barb | 12m | Crap | |||
Not that mossy since someone cleaned it, but still as good as the name sounds. Shitty cruxy move off the ground and then shitty climbing above that.
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5.10b | ★★ Dynamic Duo - with Barb | 22m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 21st Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The North Walls The Sherriff's Badge | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Angel's Crest Direct Finish - with Jed Parkes | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can't remember which one of us led this pitch.
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5.10b | ★★★ Angel's Crest (The Angel's Crest) - with Jed Parkes | 600m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great morning. Was going to do High Plains Drifter too, but by bum didn't want me to.
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Thu 20th Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron South Gully | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Rock On Direct - with Deano, Alice | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got the crux pitch. Felt tough for 10c, but I also kept moving my feet up instead of sideways on the undercling...Finished up last pitch of Rock On
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5.10b | ★★★ Mercy Street - with Darren | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great! Would feel more comfortable with 2 #3BD, but was just a bit run-out at the end otherwise. Can rap off to the right with a single 60m rope.
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Wed 19th Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Sugarloaf | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Lieback Crack - with Barb and Alice, topher | 20m | ★ Good | |||
5.11b | ★ Heavy Charge - with Alice | 15m | ★ Good | |||
The anchor was already there from Stairway, so just toproped it. Would be a scary start if leading it. Cruxy moves before any decent gear.
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5.7 | ★ Stairway - with Barb and Alice | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Book says sparse protection, but there is lots, especially if you sling the spike.
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Wed 19th Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron South Apron | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Banana Peel - with Barb and Alice | 250m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led every pitch while Alice tried to keep Barb under control.
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Tue 18th Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Slhanay | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ The Great Game - with Jed Parkes | 220m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.11a | ★★ Supernatural - with Jed Parkes | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hadn't done the second pitch before, and it isn't anywhere near as good as the first. Best to rap off after p1.
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Tue 11th Aug 2015 - Yak Peak | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Yak-Check - with Simon and Larissa | 650m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
4:45 on route with simul climbing up to the traverse pitch. Was even more fun than I remembered, possibly because it was still warm at the top!
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Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
The Belfry | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Flat Wire - with Jed | 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Two falls around final roof. Get right hand in jug below roof, then big move to face hold on left above roof. Bring right into jam in roof, then left to sharp fingerlock and move feet up.
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5.12a | ★★★ Blade Runner - with Jed | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second shot of the day.
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5.12a | ★★★ Orrgazmo - with Jed | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed it really well, but would have been harder without Jed calling out every hold.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Sex Machine - with Jed | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup for the day.
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Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Diamondback | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Sidewinder - with Jed | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11a | ★★ Cytotoxic - with Jed | 26m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky after a couple of days on steep, juggy stuff
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Sat 8th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
The Belfry | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Blade Runner - with Jed | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell off on last bolt. Wasted too much energy trying to go straight up instead of left to the jug a bit lower.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Sex Machine - with Jed | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Steep climbing with mostly massive jugs. Good fun!
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5.11b 5.11a | ★★ Goin’ Shrimpin’ (Goin' Shrimpn') - with Jed | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Fun moves past the roof.
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Fri 7th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
The Fortress | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Winston's Choice - with Steve | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Fun start, with trickier finish than expected.
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5.10a 5.10- | ★★ Primal Dream - with Steve | 55m | ★ Good | |||
Runout in places - could probably place some gear. There is a wasp nest in the overlap just after the second last bolt on p1.
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Fri 7th Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Maternal Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Pink Cosmo Girls - with Jed | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Definitely not 11a like the guide says, but a little harder than 10b I think.
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5.11b | ★★ My Mother Loves Me - with topher | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit too pumpy to be a good warmup!
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5.11c | ★★ Banana Bypass | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaning the draws after Simon led it. Pumpy number!
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Tue 4th Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Campground Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ A Pitch in Time - with Steve | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great, just wish it was longer! Wanted to do the extension, but Didn't have any gear below 0.4.
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Tue 4th Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Bulletheads Bulletheads North | ||||||
5.11c 5.11b | ★ Chimp Dip - with Steve | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Hard start! Messed up by putting first piece (blue alien) in pod, but got green alien and wire in just above. Had to come off once they were in, almost losing a chunk of my finger in the first good lock. Crack was dirty, but still got up it and placed heaps of gear up to #2BD
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Sat 1st Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Fern Hill | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Serenity Now - with Steve and Alice | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sandbagged onto this by Steve. Has some hard moves, but main difficulty was finding all the hidden holds!
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5.11a | ★★★ Good Times - with Steve and Alice | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really fun finish.
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Sat 1st Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | ||||||
5.10b 5.11a | ★★ Local Boys Do Good - with Guillaume | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First pitch only. Was just starting to get a bit of sun, so had to get up it quick!
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5.10a | ★★ Split Decision - with Guillaume | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 1st Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Gobsmacking Wall | ||||||
5.10c 5.10a | ★★ Man of Leisure - with Guillaume | 42m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing in a good position. Got on it early enough to beat the sun.
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5.10d | ★★ Poultry in Motion - with Guillaume | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice crack. Most of it climbs as 10a, just the one little cruxy section
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Aug 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Diamondback | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ On Yer Bike - with Jed Parkes | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Second shot. Missed a couple of huge jugs the first time and got pumped. Fun, steep climbing.
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Thu 30th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Area 44 Insite Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Rifle - with Barb | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Some hardish moves for a 10a. Reasonably well bolted, but a fall on most of the route would be pretty shitty.
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Thu 30th Jul 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Area 44 Preview | ||||||
5.9 | ★ I Might Possibly Consider That | 21m, 7 | Average |