Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 17th Feb 2010 - Illawong | ||||||
17 | ★ Dodgy Bolt | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rather like the others on this wall
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13 | Shlonging the Nurse | 10m | Average | |||
All a bit dull
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17 | ★ Bulges | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fantastic smearing
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18 | ★ Pissing With the Wind | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Strenuous onto the face
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Wed 10th Feb 2010 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
18 | ★ Borcat Blues | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Flared, sandy breaks make for some dubious cam placements - you're happier when you clip those bolts!
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19 | ★★ Not Your Average Cab Sav | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sustained throughout - some classic BJ thinness with great pro
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Wed 3rd Feb 2010 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Hartley Kangaroo Corner | ||||||
14 | ★★ Ivory Tower | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great varied climbing: slab, crack and an awesome roof traverse.
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12 15 | ★ Black Velvet | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slab, slopers and big runouts make an unusually freaky 13!
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Wed 3rd Feb 2010 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Cave Climb | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First half punchy for the grade and then eases into a ladder
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Wed 27th Jan 2010 - Mount Keira | ||||||
West Face | ||||||
11 | ★ Gum Tree Wall | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Top bolt is loose which is a worry on a popular beginner route
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14 16 | ★ Short Legs | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lovely juggy climbing
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Wed 20th Jan 2010 - Mount Keira | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
15 16 | ★ Trembling | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty much on the money
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13 16 | ★★ Travail | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Delicate slab moves that seem fairly tough for grade
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16 | ★★ Mind Games | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Technical on first face to ledge
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Wed 20th Jan 2010 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area New York West (Left) Side | ||||||
17 | ★ Schizophrenic Sideburns | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Hard going in the runout between bolts
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16 | ★ Lyrebird Corner | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Get pro in where ever you can on this slightly overhung corner crack
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17 | ★ Fox Force 5 | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Slightly overhung all the way
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18 | ★ Synchronicity | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Vintage slab climbing
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17 | ★ Factotum | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Not as challenging as Sync
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Sun 17th Jan 2010 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab | ||||||
18 | ★ The Answer is Obvious | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A great climb with excellent reachy moves.
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13 | ★ Trinity | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Good beginner climb, but a bit clunky for anyone else
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17 | ★ Good Fortune | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Thins near the top
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18 17 | ★ Burning Jowls | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
An enjoyable line with a bulgy runout top
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20 | ★ Nude Tuesday | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin and reachy RB1-2 and a bulge runout top
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17 | ★ Stormy Monday | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Perhaps a little bland compared to its neighbours
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18 | ★ The Bandoline Grip | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fairly easy 18, but great fun nonetheless
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19 | ★ Country Special | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looks hecticly runout but is actually very well bolted, especially over the bulgy top.
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Sun 10th Jan 2010 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Sloper for Saddam (Left Variant) (Sloper for Saddam) | 15m | ★ Good | |||
A pretty desperate sequence of starting moves.
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Sun 10th Jan 2010 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Mossy Wall | ||||||
14 | Unknown | 12m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Not really worth the bolts.
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14 | Unknown | 12m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Not really worth the bolts.
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20 | ★ Truancy Officer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Seriously overgraded - this is 17 to me.
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19 | ★ B1 | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thin crux past 3rd bolt.
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Fri 8th Jan 2010 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Vox Populi Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Hugh Town | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Slopey crux 2/3rds way up
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17 | ★ The Red Room | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Missed the foot on the arete after RB4 - sharpens the mind!
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17 | ★★ Dorothy the Dinosaur | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thin balancy bulge crux
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Fri 8th Jan 2010 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
The First Cave | ||||||
20 | ★★ Galvanise | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained enjoyable climbing, but way easier than 20.
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Sat 2nd Jan 2010 - West Roseville | ||||||
19 | Flame Trees | 7m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Soft rock and a very mossy domed topout - don't bother.
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19 | Flame Trees | 7m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Soft rock and a very mossy domed topout - don't bother.
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Sun 20th Dec 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Krell Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Here and Now | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of those classic roof moves.
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Thu 17th Dec 2009 - Bangor West | ||||||
16 15 | ★★ Andrew's Bulge | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Easy juggy climbing suitable for a beginner.
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21 18 | ★ NFM | 8m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rebolted since the SSS guide, now an awesome reachy climb.
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18 | ★ Egg Rings | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Easy for the grade with an interesting domed topout.
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21 | ★ Killer's Kidneys | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Punchy thin, reachy moves.
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16 | ★ Dorothy May | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Certainly not a 16 start!
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Fri 11th Dec 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area New York East (Right) Side | ||||||
18 | ★ Deathburger Highway | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The very homemade hardware is an interesting touch.
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17 | Islamic Cowgirls Cry "Jeehad!" | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
A rediculously high first clip and some sharp holds.
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16 | Two Carrots Purple (Unknown 0) | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
Thinness between BR1-2 is the crux.
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18 | ★ Terror Couple Kill Colonel | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Good slab climb to overhang, then 3 committing moves to rings.
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15 | Two Carrots Yellow (Unknown 3) | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
Some well connected moves.
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18 | ★ Tall Dwarfs | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The best of the three roofs. Bring some small wires for the crack.
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20 | Jewish Cowboys Yell "(Netan) Yahoo" | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Thin and punchy between bolts/rings.
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15 | Two Carrots Orange (Unknown 2) | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
Bring a cam to protect after BR2
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18 | ★ Deathburger Highway | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The very homemade hardware is an interesting touch.
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18 | ★ Terror Couple Kill Colonel | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Good slab climb to overhang, then 3 committing moves to rings.
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16 | Two Carrots Purple (Unknown 0) | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
Thinness between BR1-2 is the crux.
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14 | Two Carrots Red (Unknown 1) | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
Juggy
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Tue 8th Dec 2009 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Diamond Bay Diamond Bay Southside | ||||||
23 | ★ Mompox | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Slopey, reachy and greasy.
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18 | ★ Honeycomb Arete | 15m, 5 | Crap | |||
Like climbing a vertical beach.
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20 | ★★ Gloucester Buckets | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great juggy reachy moves for most, then a killer crux past the last bolt. Large boltheads and very sandy.
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Sun 6th Dec 2009 - Berowra | ||||||
Positive Ape Factor Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Wall Thing | 12m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Reachy pocket to pocket climbing, with a thought provoking top move - overall a real pleasure.
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Sun 6th Dec 2009 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Marsala | 8m | ★ Good | |||
A jolly little crack climb.
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Sun 6th Dec 2009 - Berowra | ||||||
Positive Ape Factor Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Wall Thing | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Reachy pocket to pocket climbing - a real pleasure.
|
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Sun 6th Dec 2009 - Berowra | ||||||
Pimple Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Look Blue Go Purple | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Tough through the scoop past RB1, then fairly straight forward face climbing.
|
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Sun 6th Dec 2009 - Berowra | ||||||
Positive Ape Factor Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Kenneth's Climb | 10m | ★ Good | |||
A good little crack climb, but careful with pro in the flaring crack.
|
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Sun 6th Dec 2009 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Marsala | 8m | ★ Good | |||
A jolly little crack climb.
|
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Sun 6th Dec 2009 - Berowra | ||||||
Positive Ape Factor Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Boundary Rider | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Much thinner than WT.
|
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18 | ★ Boundary Rider | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Much thinner than WT.
|
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Fri 4th Dec 2009 - Bangor West | ||||||
16 | ★ New Generation (Grandma's Python) | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A kneebar on the transition past RB1 certainly helps the punchy cave start.
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23 20 | ★★ Lucky's Roof | 5m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I went with the jump start to RB1. Classic roof action!
|
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16 | ★ Grandma's Wheelchair | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sporty first clip then easy jugs all the way up.
|
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17 | ★★ The Whorl | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Find the good pockets near BR2 before clipping and make your life so much more pleasant!
|
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16 | ★ New Generation (Grandma's Python) | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A thigh-hook on the transition past RB1 certainly helps the punchy cave start.
|
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Thu 3rd Dec 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ The Obituary | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Episodic pro opportunities, so throw it in whenever it looks good. Bring a full rack.
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Thu 3rd Dec 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Unethical | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
No rests means this pumpfest needs to be led fast and boldly.
|
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18 19 | ★★ Public Pressure | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Strangely I found this juggier and easier going than Mezzaluna (16). Weird grading.
|
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18 | ★ Salubrious | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good flow and well bolted.
|
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17 | ★ Unethical | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
No rests means this pumpfest needs to be lead fast and boldly.
|
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16 | ★★ Mezzaluna | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Full of reachy, balancy, sustained goodness.
|
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Mon 30th Nov 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Echo Gully | ||||||
9 | Hollow Echo | 15m | Average | |||
Easy climbing with walk-off
|
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Mon 30th Nov 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Crackle Area | ||||||
16 | ★ Crackle | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Thin at the top with no pro opportunities - beware.
|
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13 13 R | ★ Pop | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Once you get going pro is essentially limited to slinging features
|
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12 | ★ Snap | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Easy well protected climbing
|
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Mon 30th Nov 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Currawongs & Chocolate Cakes | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
1st to 3rd BR is very thin. Unusual for the grade, but great climbing!
|
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Sun 29th Nov 2009 - Middle Cove | ||||||
Harold Reid Reserve Middle Cove Crag | ||||||
16 | ★ Ringo's Revenge | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Stay on the face and out of the corner-crack and this one is pleasantly engaging.
|
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Thu 26th Nov 2009 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
Lower cliffline | ||||||
17 | ★ Natie Head | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Short and straight-forward.
|
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16 | King Kong | 15m | Average | |||
Contrary to the guide, I don't think this is very good for a beginner.
|
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Thu 19th Nov 2009 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
14 | ★ Domino | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Bring some big pro and wedge yourself in
|
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15 | Tropico | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Get inventive with the pro because it's a bit sparse to the first bolt
|
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19 | ★★ Central Pillar of Mordor | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The cam placement mentioned in the guide looked pretty flakey to me, which is a great pity because this line has all the makings of a total classic. Oh, for a bolt!
|
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18 | ★★ Liquid Insanity | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin start to run-out first bolt
|
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Fri 13th Nov 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Think Kink | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great move over bulge to 2nd ring!
|
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Fri 13th Nov 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Hornes Point | ||||||
14 | ★ Yellow Crack | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Flaring cracks makes for thoughtful pro placement
|
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17 18 | ★ Yellow Wall (Unknown Climb right of Yellow Crack) | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome juggy overhangy action.
|
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Fri 13th Nov 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Descent Gully Area | ||||||
11 | ★ The Bonatti Crack | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Good crack/jamming tutorial
|
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Thu 12th Nov 2009 - Middle Cove | ||||||
Harold Reid Reserve Middle Cove Crag | ||||||
15 | ★ Gruntled | 10m | ★ Good | |||
A cheerful little trad lead with plenty of good pro.
|
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Fri 30th Oct 2009 - Mt Ku-ring-gai | ||||||
Middle Wall | ||||||
17 | Well it Ain't Everest | 7m | Average | |||
Needs a bolt lower down to make the full-commitment first move safe.
|
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17 | ★ Well it Ain't K2 | 7m | Average | |||
Bring a bouldering mat if you want to start this safely.
|
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18 | ★ Ecstatic Addict | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Best climb on an otherwise shit wall.
|
||||||
Thu 29th Oct 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Little Diego | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Quite thin in places.
|
||||||
Thu 29th Oct 2009 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Mossy Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Jug City | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
An beginner-appropriate lead.lead.
|