Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 26th Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella Central Bunker Bunker | ||||||
5c+ 6a | ★★ Silvester | 26m | ★ Good | |||
6b | ★★ Magic woman | 30m | ★ Good | |||
6c+ 6c | ★★ Intermezzo | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
crux is the final balancy leaning layback
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6a+ 6b+ | ★★ Vietato sporgersi | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 24th Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella Central Portella delle Vacche Destra | ||||||
6b+ 6b | ★ Vamos a pilus | 19m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
slick start, sharp at the end. Consioder rapelling to save your rope
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6a+ 6b | ★ Blind date | 17m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
umcomfy move past the bulge, beware
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Sat 24th Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella El Bahira | ||||||
6b | ★ Findus | 25m | ★ Good | |||
nice stemming, crux are final moves of Panorama
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Sat 24th Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella South Pietraia | ||||||
5b | ★★ El Bahira | 22m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
versatile
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6a 6a+ | ★★ Rumba | 30m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
sharp, surprisingly easy over the overhangs
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6a 6b | ★★ Samba | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
like its neighbour to the right
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6a+ 6a | ★★ Wilkinson | 29m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
quite sharp holds
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Fri 23rd Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella South Pietraia | ||||||
6b | ★★ In Summe Gelungen | 28m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
single crux move at 8th bolt
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5b | ★★ Easter Sacrifice | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
4c | ★★ Just For Fun | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
a bit slick in some places
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6b+ 7a | ★★ Knochenmanderl | 28m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
if stemming is not forbidden, surprisingly easy for the proposed grade
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Wed 21st Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella North Cala Mancina Zoo | ||||||
5c 6a+ | ★★ Natalie | 16m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Alicia | 18m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 21st Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella North Cala Mancina Grotta Cala Mancina | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Red Necks - with Melwin Quacke | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Quite smooth, but holds just where you need them.
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Tue 20th Oct 2015 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella South Pineta | ||||||
5c | ★ Bashful | 8m, 5 | ||||
reachy
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5c | ★★ Doc | 8m, 4 | ||||
6a | ★★ Happy | 8m, 5 | ||||
5c | Grumpy | 8m, 4 | ||||
Crux is initial layback move past bulge, jamming helps
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Sun 27th Sep 2015 - Landsberg | ||||||
Gützer Berg Kleiner Steinbruch | ||||||
VI 4C | ★ Plitsch-Platsch | ★ Good | ||||
reachy
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Sun 23rd Aug 2015 - Tisá | ||||||
Malé stěny Vyhlídka | ||||||
VIIc | ★ Zelené kobylky - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 2 | Average | |||
demanding moves at start; crispy holds and mediocre pro; exit moves not hard but somewhat runout
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VIIb | ★★ Fotbalové klání - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
better quality than it looks, crux shortly past first bolt and around corner
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VIIa VI | ★★ Po třech sudech - with Reiko, Jeremias, Lina | 17m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
plenty of pro; exit crack demands some jamming
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VIIIa | ★★ Hřbitovní kvítí - with Tilli, Danilo Hondo | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
crimpy move past first bolt, then easier but still interesting to top. Good 7 mm sling somewhat above second bolt
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Sat 22nd Aug 2015 - Tisá | ||||||
Malé stěny Kočka | ||||||
VIIa | ★★ Tschunkova cesta - with Lina, Nona | 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
somewhat sandy start, then easy climbing to ring. Short harder traverse, good 9 mm sling in left crack, then traverse back right to exit
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Fri 14th Aug 2015 - Telfs | ||||||
Arzbergklamm Tal ohne Weiher | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Tal ohne Weiher - with Danilo Hondo | 20m | ★ Good | |||
nices moves along edge
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Fri 14th Aug 2015 - Telfs | ||||||
Arzbergklamm Extreme | ||||||
6a 6a - b | ★ Riss - with Danilo Hondo | 12m | ★ Good | |||
bouldery start, then easy
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Fri 14th Aug 2015 - Croda da Lago | ||||||
Cason di Formin | ||||||
4+ 5- | ★★★ Dallago - with Danilo Hondo | 270m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bring plenty of slings for threads: stoppers and Friends were less useful. Tiresome walk-off through steep talus slopes.
I lead the odd pitches.
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Fri 14th Aug 2015 - Telfs | ||||||
Arzbergklamm Load | ||||||
6c 6a | Wasting my hate - with Danilo Hondo | 15m | Average | |||
Without bailing out left below the overhang, this won't go for 6a. Awkward clip at anchors.
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5c 5b - 6a | ★ King Nothing - with Danilo Hondo | 15m | Average | |||
6b | Lo schiaffo - with Danilo Hondo | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
very sought line
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6b 6c+ | ★★ Load - with Danilo Hondo | 15m | Average | |||
bouldery start
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Wed 12th Aug 2015 - Cinque Torri | ||||||
Torre Grande Cima Nord | ||||||
6b+ |
★★★ [corner left of Dibona]
- with
Danilo Hondo
1
lead by
Danilo
2
lead by
Melwin
3
lead by
Danilo
| 70m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Well-bolted interesting climbing. First hanger of last pitch (crux!) was missing, bring replacement.
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Wed 12th Aug 2015 - Cinque Torri | ||||||
Torre del Barancio | ||||||
4 |
★★ Via Ignazio Dibona
- with
Danilo Hondo
1
lead by
Danilo
2
lead by
Melwin
3
lead by
Melwin
4
lead by
Danilo
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome climbing that needed me to force myself still to remember placing some pro now and then. We exited straight to the summit (instead of traversing right) which was somewhat sketchy.
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Wed 12th Aug 2015 - Cinque Torri | ||||||
Torre di Mezzo | ||||||
4+ | ★ [North ridge] - with Danilo Hondo | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 12th Aug 2015 - Cinque Torri | ||||||
Torre Quarta Alta | ||||||
4- | ★ Via Normale - with Danilo Hondo | 95m | Average | |||
Wed 12th Aug 2015 - Cinque Torri | ||||||
Torre Quarta Bassa | ||||||
3+ | ★★ Normalweg (Southeastface) - with Danilo Hondo | 70m | ★ Good | |||
Sweet! Expect crowds.
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Mon 10th Aug 2015 - Reiteralpe | ||||||
Hinteres Feuerhörndl | ||||||
7- |
★ Willis weiter Weg
- with
Danilo Hondo
1
lead by
Danilo
2
lead by
Melwin
3
lead by
Danilo
4
lead by
Melwin
5
lead by
Danilo
6
lead by
Danilo
7
lead by
Melwin
8
lead by
Danilo
9
lead by
Melwin
10
lead by
Danilo
| 370m | ★ Good | |||
Perfectly protected. I liked 7th pitch best, 9th was somewhat wet. Slightly greenish in between.
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Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Katastrophenfels | ||||||
D | ||||||
6+ 7c+ | ★ Schwächeanfall (Poseidonplatte) - with Danilo Hondo | 9m | Average | |||
6 7c+ | ★ Schwächeanfall (Cool bleibn Sepp) - with Danilo Hondo | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Overhang resolves itself by some stemming
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Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Katastrophenfels | ||||||
B | ||||||
7- 6a+ | ★★ Ökolopoly (Ökopoly) - with Danilo Hondo | 22m | ★ Good | |||
5+ 5a | ★★ Rosenmontag - with Danilo Hondo | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Katastrophenfels | ||||||
C | ||||||
6 5c | ★ Schneemann - with Danilo Hondo | 15m | Average | |||
5 4c | Leichtes Weißbier - with Danilo Hondo | 15m | Average | |||
Sun 9th Aug 2015 - Katastrophenfels | ||||||
D | ||||||
6 7c+ | ★ Schwächeanfall (Der lange Weg zum Ausstieg) - with Danilo Hondo | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did the direct finish, which seemed somewhat harder than 6.
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Sat 18th Jul 2015 - Rothsteiner Felsen | ||||||
VI 5 | Kurze Kante | 3 | ★ Good | |||
reachy start
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6- | Linkes Wändchen (Linkes Wämdchen) | 2 | Average | |||
5+ 5+ - 6 | ★★ Rothsteiner Weg | 4 | ||||
VI 5 | Alter Winkel | Don't Bother | ||||
Sun 21st Jun 2015 - Almaty | ||||||
Водопад Бутаковка Lower | ||||||
5c | Справа от Трубы (Sprava ot Truby) - with Katy, Abror | Average | ||||
anchor "chains" are crap
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Sat 6th Jun 2015 - Freiberger Mulde- und Bobritzschtal | ||||||
Muldenzacke | ||||||
5+ 5 | Freundschaftsweg - with Melwin Quacke | 27m, 5 | Average | |||
a stopper between 1st and 2nd bolt might be nice
|
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Wed 27th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Podhradí Větrná | ||||||
VIIa | ★★ Kokšova - with Till | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
lots of pro
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Fri 22nd May 2015 - Teplické skály | ||||||
X Bašta / Bastion 3 Machovanka | ||||||
VIIc | ★★ Vitamin A - with Danilo Hondo | 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
reasonably protectable; harder than it looks just before ringbolt. Friction moves off the bolts quite hard.
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Sun 17th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Království Hroche | ||||||
VI V | ★★ Tomáška - with Danilo Hondo | 20m | ★ Good | |||
reasonable pro at start of crack, which climbs as perfect hand crack.
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Sat 16th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Království 86 Bratranecká / Cousin Tower | ||||||
II | ★★ Stará cesta / Normal Route (Stará cesta) - with Danilo Hondo | Average | ||||
Sat 16th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Podhradí Věž Tondy Rouska | ||||||
IV | Milanův komín | Average | ||||
somewhat reachy and committing move onto summit, probably less suitable for kids
|
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Sat 16th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Podhradí Olympijská | ||||||
II | Stará cesta | Average | ||||
pleasant
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Sat 16th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Podhradí Drážďanská | ||||||
VIIa | ★★ Studená - with Danilo Hondo | 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
wide split to reach the first thread, then easier with good pro, reachy move to bolt. Final edge well protected.
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Sat 16th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Podhradí Větrná | ||||||
VI | ★ Umlaufův traverz - with Emilia | 1 | ★ Good | |||
lots of protection, slightly awkward for second because of some downclimbing in traverse. Somewhat balancy move into final chimney, then easy.
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Fri 15th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Království 85 Hurajda | ||||||
V IV | ★ Traverzová / Traverse Route (Traverzová) - with Danilo Hondo | 40m | Average | |||
I found the chimney at the start somewhat streanous: took the left one, instead of the right one. The traverse if benign, the final slab still requires some concentration.
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Fri 15th May 2015 - Adršpašské skály | ||||||
Vstupní obvod Ty-tydýt | ||||||
VIIb | Klaksonek | Average | ||||
harder than it looks, somewhat sandy
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V II | Sestupovka - with Matze | Don't Bother | ||||
Hard bouldery start, the rest unspectacular
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Thu 14th May 2015 - Teplické skály | ||||||
X Bašta / Bastion Slunečná | ||||||
VI IV | ★★ Jižní - with Danilo Hondo | 30m | ★ Good | |||
continued from ledge straight up layback crack, instead of going left around corner. Well protectable.
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Wed 29th Oct 2014 - Siurana | ||||||
L'Herbolari | ||||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ Farigola | 28m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
without the tree, the start will be much harder.
Surprising final moves involved some jamming.
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Mon 27th Oct 2014 - Siurana | ||||||
El recingle del Titi | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Piolin | ★ Good | ||||
crux at short traverse right below bulge.
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5a 5 | ★★ El Coyote | 22m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Beautiful rock structure!
bring a sling for another thread after second bolt.
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5b+ 5+ | ★★ El Rovello Fredolic | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful rock structure!
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Fri 24th Oct 2014 - Siurana | ||||||
Grau dels Masets Esquerra | ||||||
5b+ 5+ | ★★ Super Fisura | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
nice stemming
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6c 7a | ★★ Super Final | 10m | ★ Good | |||
short but nice extension
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★ Mandarina | 12m, 6 | Average | ||||
6a 6b | ★★ Black | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 23rd Oct 2014 - Siurana | ||||||
Grau dels Masets Camí | ||||||
6b+ 6b | ★ Suape | Average | ||||
hard crimpy start
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5a 5 | L'escola | Average | ||||
5b+ 5+ | ★★ Fam Facil | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a | ★ Baronia De Cabaces | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 22nd Oct 2014 - Montsant | ||||||
Roca de les Hores Centre | ||||||
6a+ 6b | ★ Joaquin er nesio | 15m | ★ Good | |||
removed some ivy and found nice climbing
|
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6a+ | ★★ El nene | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★ Insert coin | 15m | ★ Good | |||
lots of pockets
|
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5c | A rajatanga | 15m | Average | |||
harder than it looks
|
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6a+ | Jose Mític | 15m | ||||
demanding upper half
|
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Mon 20th Oct 2014 - Olvena | ||||||
Garrapatillos | ||||||
5c 6a | Directa - with Efren | 22m | ||||
5b | Fisura calentamiento - with Efren | 22m | ||||
Sun 19th Oct 2014 - Valle de Isábena | ||||||
Merlí Pared del Chordal Sector Fisuras | ||||||
5b+ 5+ | Garrerida Espanola - with Erik | 30m, 10 | Average | |||
some lychens in the lower part, then interesting moves with some balancy friction. Watch out for loose stones.
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Sun 19th Oct 2014 - Valle de Isábena | ||||||
Merlí Agulla de la Craba | ||||||
5b+ 5+ | (7) - with Erik | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
watch out for loose rock at the top
|
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6a+ 6a | ★ (6) - with Erik | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
some technical smearing moves in the rightward traversing section
|
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Sun 10th Aug 2014 - Pfahl | ||||||
Happy Wall | ||||||
7- | ★ toprope | 8m | ★ Good | |||
7- | Happy Wall | 8m | ||||
6 6- | ★★ Piaz | 8m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#5 stopper useful 1 m above bolt. Powerful first move, then easier.
|
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4- | ★★ Schuppe | 10m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crux at start. Takes lots of pro. Flake sounds a bit hollow.
|
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Sun 10th Aug 2014 - Pfahl | ||||||
Großer Turm | ||||||
6- | ★★ Südkante - with Daniel | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
steep moves, but good rests on the three ledges. No pro except big stopper and 2 slings.
|
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6 | ★ Variante - with Daniel | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
single powerful move past overhang, rest easier. #2 cam and sling useful.
|
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Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Kaitersberg | ||||||
Rauchröhren Steinturm | ||||||
4 5- | ★★ Alte Westwand | ★★ Very Good | ||||
balancy move past 1st bolt, then pure pleasure.
|
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7- | ★★ Kraftwerk | ★★ Very Good | ||||
jug fest
|
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6+ | ★★ Hilti | ★ Good | ||||
athletic first move, then slightly easier
|
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7 | Cool running | 20m | ||||
crux: clipping the second bolt. Use short quickdraw in first bolt.
|
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6 | ★★ Wintertraum - with D | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
balancy move past 1st bolt, then pure pleasure.
|
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Sun 27th Jul 2014 - Labské údolí | ||||||
Pravý břeh Podskalí Půlnoční kámen | ||||||
I | Stará cesta | 10m |