Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 24th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Fern Buttress Central, Right | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ritz Cracker | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool splitter! then short but cool corner.
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Tue 24th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Fern Buttress Orchard Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Springboard | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The start is a bit burly and then it's easier.
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5.10a | ★★★ Triple Treat | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit awkward around the roof and then good to finish.
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Mon 23rd Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | ||||||
5.10b 5.10b R | ★★★ Angel's Arete | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing rock and great climbing and fantastic line.
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5.8 | ★★ Zag | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Englishman's Crack | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic but only in a "classic line" kind of way.
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5.7 | ★★ Easily Flakey | 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Polished plus.
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Sat 21st Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Leave It To Jesus | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
They don't come better than this!
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5.11a | ★★★ Raging Waters | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great hidden nut on top of a flake at the crux (near the ground)
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5.10c | ★★ Can I Do It 'Til I Need Glasses? | 29m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quite cracky.
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5.10d | ★★★ Straight Up And Stiff | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Remission | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great line.
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Sat 21st Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Black And Tan | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Engaging classic.
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5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool juggy crack. Green and red for a fair while but the face holds keep the grade down.
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Fri 20th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall The Undeserved Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ The Undeserved | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Loose block is exciting!
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5.11a | ★★★ Mig Squadron | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tricky trav but not too bad. Great moves.
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Wed 18th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super unlikely and intimidating for the grade! A great climb.
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5.9 | ★★ Happy Hands | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10b | ★★ Spider Wand | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Blue camalot crack in a steep dihedral to a roof section.
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5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool swinging around the arête
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5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Such a great route! Technical finger crack with perfect nut slots the whole way.
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Wed 18th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Brain Wave | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★ Out Of Mind | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★ Journey To The Center Of The Brain | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Someone stole this route from Arapiles! Fantastic and steep for the grade.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not as good as its namesake at Arapiles but still worth doing.
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice thin facey crack.
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5.11a | ★★★ Stuck In Another Dimension | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing route! Steep bulgy line. Crack skills required.
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5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Feels a bit goey in one spot. Cool line.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great but not very continuous. Probably would be 5.7 in Yosemite
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5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not too bad. A bit thoughtful in spots.
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5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great rock. A couple of nice locks on this one.
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Sat 24th Oct 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Roadside Crag | ||||||
5.11a 5.10d | ★★ Synchronicity | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
It's only crack climbing for the first 4m then back to face.
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Sun 18th Oct 2015 - Devils Tower National Monument | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Direct Southeast | 66m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice techy incipient finger crack
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Sun 18th Oct 2015 - Devils Tower National Monument | ||||||
East Face | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Hollywood and vine | 84m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great slab crack with hardly any features. Memorable route.
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5.9 | ★★★ Soler | 79m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great if not a big polished and a loose section up high.
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Sat 17th Oct 2015 - Devils Tower National Monument | ||||||
West Face | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Tulgey Wood | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I only had one #3.5 and one C4 #4. Not a recommended rack haha. Pitch 3 could happily take 7 or 8 #3.5's!!
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5.11a | ★★★ Mr. Clean | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This route is in my top five crack lines of all time. I love it! Mostly 0.75s and 1s. I mostly placed nuts though. There are lots of constrictions.
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Fri 16th Oct 2015 - Devils Tower National Monument | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
5.6 5.7 | ★★ Durrance | 150m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Scooted up this from 3-5pm after arriving. Great place!
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Tue 13th Oct 2015 - Paradise Forks | ||||||
The Gold Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Grievous Angel | 15m | ||||
5.10 | ★★ Waterslip Down | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short but good
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Tue 13th Oct 2015 - Paradise Forks | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.11- | ★★★ The Prow | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great physical climbing!
0.75 - everybody's favourite right?
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5.10 | ★★ Jolly Roger | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Weird crux move. Strange foot jam mantle.
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5.10- | ★★ Ship Of Fools | 20m | ★ Good | |||
I broke some holds off the start. It's now solid 10? For a couple of moves. The rest is good but a little loose feeling in spots.
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Tue 13th Oct 2015 - Paradise Forks | ||||||
Raindance Buttress | ||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Raindance | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Steeper and better than it looks from the other side. A great route
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Mon 12th Oct 2015 - Paradise Forks | ||||||
Obsidian Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Black Rose | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super cool 5.8! Looks WAY harder. Intimidating overhanging wall.
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Mon 12th Oct 2015 - Paradise Forks | ||||||
The Prow | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fool's Game | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Mayflower | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice climbing. Pity the start is off to the side.
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5.12- | ★★ Mayflower Direct | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Diabolical! I could only get pinky and ring tips in at one point.
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Sun 11th Oct 2015 - Paradise Forks | ||||||
The Pillow Wall | ||||||
5.10 | ★★ Pillow Fight | 15m | ||||
5.11+ | ★★★ Davidson Dihedral | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Perfect finger corner. Very clean line. Virtually no feet but in the finger crack! Mostly first knuckle.
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5.9 | ★★ Pillow Talk | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Geekus Amongst Us | 15m | ||||
5.9 | ★ Pillow Case | 15m | ||||
5.10 | Ivory Snow | |||||
Thu 8th Oct 2015 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Mariuolumne Area Drug Dome | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Oz | 150m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The 3rd pitch is pretty outstanding! No laybacking required contrary to what some say. Amazing rock and route overall.
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Mon 5th Oct 2015 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face | ||||||
5.7 5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Somehow I had never done this!?! It's really really good. Well protected where it counts.
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Wed 30th Sep 2015 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap East Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Scimitar | 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 29th Sep 2015 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap West Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Hospital Corner | 73m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great sustained crack on the second pitch.
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Tue 29th Sep 2015 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap Main Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Corrugation Corner | 140m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing arête section for the grade and when it was first put up!
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Mon 28th Sep 2015 - Plumas National Forest | ||||||
Silver Lake | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Right of TN | ★ Good | ||||
Steeper (and harder) than it looks
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Sat 26th Sep 2015 - Trout Creek | ||||||
The Main Wall | ||||||
5.10+ 5.10 | ★★★ The Ruiner | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Every route here is good. This one gets ignored but is fantastic.
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5.11- | ★★★ Dame El Oro | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
5.10 | ★★★ Gold Rush | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10 | ★★★ JR Token | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The top is a bad size for me.
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5.10 5.10b/c | ★★★ Mr. Squiggles (Mr. Squiggle) | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great wiggly crack
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5.10+ | ★★★ Suzuki | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sustained
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5.10 | ★★★ Wonder Twins | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
My favourite all day.
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Fri 25th Sep 2015 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Overboard Area | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Lion's Chair | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Steeper and pumpier than I thought it would be. Did an actual Houdini move for real! The rock deteriorates up higher but it's smith so what do you expect. Escaping into the shade for a bit before going to rope de dope.
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Fri 25th Sep 2015 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
Rope De Dope Block | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Rope De Dope Crack | |||||
Fri 25th Sep 2015 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
The Dihedrals | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ Cinnamon Slab | 37m | ★ Good | |||
with Don and Jess
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Sun 20th Sep 2015 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
The Lower Gorge West Columns Wildfire Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Cornercopia | 24m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Badfinger | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Like the creek but steeper and with jugs along the way.
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Thu 10th Sep 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The North Walls The Sherriff's Badge | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Angel's Crest Direct Finish | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Angel's Crest (The Angel's Crest) | 600m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did all the variants except the OW.
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Sun 6th Sep 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Malamute Starr Wall | ||||||
5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Paul's Crack | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Stefanie's Tears | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 5th Sep 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Slhanay | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ The Great Game | 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
With Louise. Very cool excursion. Each pitch is totally different style.
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5.10c 5.10c/d | ★★★ Right Wing | 150m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Couldn't resist the splitter first two pitches!
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Fri 4th Sep 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Penny Lane | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Clandestine Affair | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11b | ★★★ The Yorkshire Gripper | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Saw a photo once of Croft soloing this. Not as hard as I thought it would be. I love finger cracks.
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Popeye and the Raven | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A few wet spots added some excitement. Tech stemming
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5.8 | ★★ Quarryman | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fantastic finger splitter. Had to do another route a couple of times before I could get on as this was so busy. Deservedly so.
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5.9 | ★★★ Penny Lane | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Busy but worth it. Great crack
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5.11a | ★★★ Partners in Crime | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tricky with a wet start but didn't slip. Such a cool line. I love it.
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Wed 2nd Sep 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Diamondback | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Ready to Strike | 26m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A little slippery feeling down low but great steep trad corner. Had to rush off after this one into the shade.
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Wed 2nd Sep 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Great White Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Gang bang | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great proud trad corner up the middle of the wall. Steep in a few sections.
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Tue 1st Sep 2015 - Skaha | ||||||
Grassy Glades | ||||||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Grassy Glades | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 23rd Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Malamute The Cage | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Pinky Locks | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
tricky for 5.7 ie harder than 5.7
|
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Sun 23rd Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Malamute Starr Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ High Mountain Woody | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Slap and Tickle | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Unlikely finish. With Geordie and Jess
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Sun 23rd Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Malamute The Cage | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Chasing Rainbows | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A bit goey at the crux
|
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Sun 23rd Aug 2015 - Squamish | ||||||
The Malamute Grub Street | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Old Style | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 31st Mar 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Leadership Spill | 25m | ★ Good | |||
24 | ★★ No Standing | 25m | ||||
Tue 31st Mar 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Oh Bondage | 15m | ||||
21 | ★ Not Like a Hurricane | 18m | ||||
The line on the topo is in the right place. I tried to go up too early but realised my mistake and came back down then went right!
|
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21 | ★ Suckin' Snag | 39m | ||||
A great bit of adventure.
|
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Sun 29th Mar 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | ||||||
6 | ★ Revolver Crack | 20m |