Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 7th Nov 2023 - Avon Gorge | ||||||
Sea Walls Area The New Quarry | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Bushmen... (Chepstow Zombie Finish) - with Jess | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better defined than it’s neighbours. Feels less squeezed.
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Flat Rock | ||||||
West Flank | ||||||
17 | ★★ Dirty Bomb | 15m, 7 | ||||
18 | ★ MOAB | 20m, 8 | ||||
20 | ★★ Alpha Decay | 17m, 9 | ||||
22 | ★ Minutes to Midnight | 30m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The start had smaller holds than I though but they were closer together than I thought.
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22 | ★★ Without Warning | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Steeper than it looks at the top
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20 | ★ The Big Red Button | 15m, 5 | ||||
21 | ★ Fat Boy | 15m, 7 | ||||
I missed something and it seemed tricky.
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Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting - with Matt Dal Santo | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Taught Matt to belay and away we went.
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18 | ★ Tigger's Mark - with Matt Dal Santo | 12m, 2 | ||||
16 | Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy - with Matt Dal Santo | 12m, 2 | ||||
17 | ★ Piglet Gets Porked - with Matt Dal Santo | 15m, 3 | ||||
19 | ★ Pooh Gets A Dip In The Honey Pot - with Matt Dal Santo | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 5th Jun 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
27 | ★★ Hot Coq | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Managed all the moves in a few sections. Packs it in for a shorty.
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Thu 12th Jul 2018 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Halfway House | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Voluptuous | 11m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route. A little short but packs it in. I always seem to do this when I come up here. So good
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24 23 | ★★★ The Elite Republican Guard | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice one. Throws you around a bit but is all there.
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Thu 12th Jul 2018 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Aphelion (Aphelion p4 / Rubicon p3) | 87m | Average | |||
18 22 | ★★ Rubicon (Rubicon p1) | 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First 20m was wet through and about grade 28 haha
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22 | ★★ Aphelion (Aphelion p3) | 87m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really cool climbing, rock and position. I'd forgotten how good it is!
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Sun 8th Jul 2018 - Pages Pinnacle | ||||||
21 | ★ TOS Extension | 19m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Thought I was going to fall off this when I missed some holds haha! I also somehow missed a clip. I even already had a draw on it!
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19 | ★★ Gnarley | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
26 | ★★ Meter Maids | 18m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good but unfortunately eases off in the top half. 7 or 8 move sequence on nicely featured rock.
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22 | ★★ Bombay Rock | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Couldn't remember doing this one before. Apparently that's because I'm 40 now. It's quite good
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18 | ★ TOS | 12m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 16th Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ John and Betty | 23m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Haden done this for a while. Go right at the upper section instead of left to get extra value.
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Fri 9th Feb 2018 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
20 | ★★ Try Land - with Gregor | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Pains Ford - with Gregor | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
23 | ★★ Pain Criminals Link-up - with Gregor | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 | ★ Minced Beef Eaters - with Gregor | 20m | Average | |||
Thinner than I remembered.
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Tue 16th Jan 2018 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Harrop Track Ruined Castle | ||||||
15 | ★ The First Crusade Pitch 1 | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good rock. More like arapiles
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23 | ★★ The First Crusade Pitch 2 | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Steep on mostly good jugs but not that long.
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22 | ★★★ Christendom | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting climbing. Easier and better than it looks and it looks pretty good to start with!
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24 | ★★ Catapult | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Great rock but not super consistent. Easy jugs, one hard move and then slightly awkward groove bit. The position on this wall is magic. Would be super popular if it was closer to the car or ground.
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Tue 28th Nov 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Dial-A-Lama - with Callum Dougall, Geordie Webb | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I might've done this twenty years ago but don't remember. Great climbing.
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Sat 8th Apr 2017 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Olive Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Taser (Tazer) - with great climbing! | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Supposed to be a comeback project but it went second go! After 5 months off I'm feeling strong but unfit.
With Josh
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Thu 26th Jan 2017 - Bundaleer Area | ||||||
Bundaleer | ||||||
24 | ★ Lunging For Melons Extension | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Took quite a few cracks at the hard bit before I figured it out. Hard to onsight overall I reckon. Really cool subtle moves after the big move. Happy to get this after three months of not climbing. Pumped as at the top and has to pull a bit of technique out to stay on.
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28 | ★★★ Touchstone Pictures | 46m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Had a play at the end of the day. The diabolical bit is diabolical.
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Fri 4th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
26 | FA ★★ Project | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dusted and done. Not sure on the grade. Felt 25-26 ish. Let me know what you think.
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Sat 15th Oct 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Project | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got up it first go figuring the bolt positions out. Now to add the bolts. 25 or 26
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Sat 7th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Cogito Ergo Wobble | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Almost z-clipped!
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19 | ★ I Am Not A Pork Chop | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good but the business is very short. Maybe one star.
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Sat 13th Feb 2016 - Montanejos | ||||||
Barranco de la Maimona Placas del Sol | ||||||
7a | ★★ Tres semanas y pico | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit fiery for 7a. Not overbolted.
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7b | Directa italiana | Average | ||||
A bit disappointing. The start is nails.
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6c+ | ★★★ Romeo y Loleta | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Don't solo the start. See, I told you so.
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6c+ | ★★★ No te rÃas que quemas calorÃas | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a+ | ★ Hombres de pastel | ★ Good | ||||
6a+ | ★ Los Elefantes Llevan Tirantes | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit same samey
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Tue 9th Feb 2016 - Los Vados | ||||||
La Guarderia | ||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Via 7 (R3) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
These routes were all way better than we thought they would be!
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6c 6b | Pocoyó (R4) | 18m | ||||
Cool flow stone to start
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6b+ 6b | ★★ Petit Cheri | 38m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great finish
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6a+ | ★★ Hello Kitty | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Noddy (R1) | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Calliou (R2) | 19m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 5th Feb 2016 - El Chorro | ||||||
Makinodromo Makinódromo | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 32m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Crazy popular.
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6c | ★ Salida de emergencia (L1) | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Two hard moves on mega polish.
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7a+ | ★★ Estoy Mortimer | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice slopey finish.
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6b+ | ★★ Mystic Rhythem | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One move is much harder than the rest but still worth doing.
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6c | ★★★ Life is Sweet | 32m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really liked this one.
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7b | ★★★ La Columna de Gollum | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Probably would be more classic (and slightly easier) without the extension but what a feature! So cool.
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Thu 4th Feb 2016 - El Chorro | ||||||
Frontales Frontales Medias Momia | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Anak Sunamun | 32m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super cool. Just keeps going
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6c+ | ★★ Insomnio de equipmento | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I missed something at the crux haha!
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7a+ |
★★ Seco y Pedro
1
2
3
| 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the first pitch. Quality dihedral.
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6a | Canal (New route 2) | 37m | Average | |||
Ok
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6c | ★★ Makita Power | 30m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky and on the feet.
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7a | ★★ El Orejazo | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Prickly rock in first half. Seems like it's going to be desperate but then isn't.
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Fri 29th Jan 2016 - Los Vados | ||||||
La Canal | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Metamorfosis | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Odin | |||||
6c | ★★ Rolling Stones - short (Rolling Stone) | |||||
Solid for 6c. Continuous at the grade.
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6a+ 6a/a+ | ★★ 1994 - Short (1994) | |||||
Fri 29th Jan 2016 - Los Vados | ||||||
Pared de La Canal | ||||||
6a+ | ★ La Chica del pijama | |||||
Fri 29th Jan 2016 - Los Vados | ||||||
La Canal | ||||||
7a 7a - b | ★★★ Inmortales (Los immortales) | |||||
6b+ 6b/b+ | ★★ La canal | |||||
A little runout in parts. Both new and old bolts.
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Sat 5th Dec 2015 - San Luis Valley | ||||||
English Valley | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Big Monkey Left | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic climbing on slightly less than classic rock quality. Cool route.
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5.12a | ★★ Big Monkey Right | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fantastic jutting jugs in one section. Cool rock.
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5.12c | ★★★ Chim Chim | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing. The feet get pretty bad for a while right when you don't want them to.
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5.12b | ★★ Me Tarzan | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seemed trickier than the other routes here. I had to hang on and figure a couple of sections out.
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Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | ||||||
The North Forty | ||||||
5.10d 5.10c | ★★★ Crimp Scampi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two thin sections.
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5.9 | ★★ Leonid | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | ||||||
The North Forty Circus Walls | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Fat Hand | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Boulder problem and then still sustained until the angle eases.
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5.12c | ★★ Corn Grinder | 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not exactly sustained but good quality. Steeper than it looked.
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5.9 | ★★ Dancing Outlaw | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Long and steep and diagonal. A 5.9 with perma-draws!
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Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | ||||||
The North Forty | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ The Controversy | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Cool arete
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5.9 | ★★ Strongman | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ The Greatest Show on Earth | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ African Herbman | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★ Adult Supervision | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Unfortunately the harder bit id too short
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5.9 | ★ Smooth Criminal | 12m | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Mefloquine Dreams | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | ||||||
The North Forty Circus Walls | ||||||
5.12- | ★★ Lavender Eye | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Missed the heel hook the first time
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5.9 | ★★ Green Goblin | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★ Ace in the Hole | 19m | ★ Good | |||
5.11+ | Trapeze Artist | Average | ||||
Only one super hard bit and the top is too easy.
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5.11 | ★★ Big Top | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great! Sustained goodness
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Fri 27th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Methane Rising | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
pretty friendly apart from one move (which is still pretty friendly)
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5.10d | ★★ Return of the Manimal | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This one is a winner! The rock quality deteriorates slightly up higher but not too badly.
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5.11a | ★★ Critters on the Cliff | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The routes on this wall are great fun. Long moves on mostly big holds
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5.10a | ★★ Rat Stew | 23m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Interesting moves and a bit longer than other walls around. I can see why this place gets so rammed.
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Fri 27th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Sunnyside | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Machete | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.11b | ★★ Weed Eater | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
a few hard sections separated by big rests. Not that impressed with this wall
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5.9 | ★ Kokopeli's Dream | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
a bit slopey and then a lot easier
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