The Olive Cave Rock climbing 10 routes in crag

Steep with two bouldery moves and a very big novelty diving board! The left most route in the cave. 5 ringbolts and lower-off. Last few meters is chossy.

A very steep link-up of 'Bees Knees' and 'Spunky Monkey'. Up 'Bees Knees' to the diving board, place some optional medium cams then traverse right into the super exposed finish of 'Spunky Monkey'. Route needs to be back-cleaned or 2nded.

Central line of least resistance and most steepness! Easily up slabby face in centre of cave to vertical wall. Bouldery moves to reach the horizontal break (2nd and 3rd bolt are hard to clip). Swing and monkey leftwards along break to thank-god bolt then keep going left with rapidly disappearing holds. Eventually scuttle onto big jutting diving board. Rest then monkey back right (scary!) then out out out past three FHs to final easy grey wall and rap chain.

The best warm-up here. Well protected and interesting climbing throughout. Starts at ground level on the right side of cave. Up sandy slab to orange funnel. Up this and onto steep left arete, then mantle onto ledge. Swing right and then crimp up grey face above. 6 ringbolts and lower-off.

Proud Taipan-wall style black streaked rib up the centre of the southern cave. Outstanding and sustained. A mysterious rusty FH was in the top of this route already. The top seeps in heavy rain and requires 24 hours to dry out.

If this route is at your limit expect to be tested from the first dyno to clipping the chains. If you don't like the dyno start, you can do a variant start a few metres left that joins at the 2nd bolt (easier moves but smaller bragging rights).

Although the route is often criticised for weird bolting, this can be ameliorated by adding a 60cm sling to the 3rd bolt, and a 120cm sling to the 4th bolt.

CB - Big Bird Beta

Jack - Small Bird Beta

The gobsmaking left leaning line in the centre of the cave finishing near the end of 'Tazer'. One FH at start and one right near the finish. The rest is old school trad! Malcolm flashed it for the second ascent.

aka The Infected Fist - Neil needed antibiotics after his jam scars become septic whilst working this! In the vein of The Ogive or Procal Harem. The second roof crack 1m right of Adams Crack with a few bolts. Tape gloves, knee pads and cloth to soak up blood required. At the end of the roof crack traverse right along horizontal break for 6m to anchor. 3 FHs and assorted cams to #5 size, multiples of thin hand size recommended.

Lovely, varied climbing which makes rising traverse through right side of the Olive Cave. Chimney to bottom R side of cave. Rising traverse up left through cave to its left arete. Short, steep wall on good holds. (Descend gully immediately to left.)