Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | ★★ Sea Lion - with Anton Steketee | 55m, 13 | Waitpinga | ★★★ Classic | Thu 26th Feb 2015 | |||
Each segment gets progressively harder. The second pitch was beyond my comfort zone. Only 2 bolts I think - there is a hole left where another was up higher. Top anchor shackles look pretty rusty.
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20 | ★★ Gladiator - with Nick Chappell | 16m, 3 | Morialta | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Nov 2014 | |||
Hard start, placed a cam before the 1st bolt. Great sustained steep climbing. Clipped the low chains and then got very concerned about the enormous blocks so traversed right and up the arete to the top chains.
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19 | ★★ Cheops - with Elisa | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Oct 2014 | |||
Kind of hard to see where to go starting off the tree. Went up little depression between bulges heading towards leftmost crack. Seemed a bit dangerous so I'm feeling this is closer to 19 than 18.
The rest of the climb was great though. |
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19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams - with Elisa Chaplin | 20m | Morialta | ★★★ Classic | Sat 31st Jan 2015 | |||
This made me work! Not much gear down low but plenty where you need it. The wide crack stalled me for some time. Exciting finish too
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19 | ★★ Hard People - with Anton Steketee | 25m | Onkaparinga | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Feb 2015 | |||
Sustained, exciting. A 40m static is required to establish a toprope off the bollards.
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18 | ★★ Lost Socks | 31m, 4 | Waitpinga | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Nov 2011 | |||
Scared myself pretty good on this one, with numerous foot slips and exclamations of discomfort.
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18 | ★★ Dutchy's Route | 48m | Waitpinga | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Mar 2012 | |||
Bolt bravery! Deb seconded
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18 | ★★ Georgie Rose - with Anton, Starkey | 30m, 5 | Waitpinga | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Oct 2012 | |||
Tough up to bolt, the pleasant until the final hard traverse.
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19 18 | ★★ The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1 - with Anton Steketee | 27m, 4 | Waitpinga | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Nov 2012 | |||
Hard to first bolt, then nice climbing almost to the top. Then spent 15 minutes working out a move about 5m below the belay. Very difficult, no footers, certainly as hard as "Clearing Your Mind"
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18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur - with Elisa | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 13th Aug 2014 | |||
I found the crux a little harder than asteroid, but I thought asteroid was more sustained and enjoyable. Missed the dinosaur but Elisa pointed it out while seconding.
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18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid - with Elisa | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Aug 2014 | |||
More sustained and enjoyable than dinosaur.
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18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Elisa | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Aug 2014 | |||
Great route, good gear. Small footers through the crux.
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18 | ★ Wascal - with Nick | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||
Reachy. An excellent wire at the crux helped a lot.
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18 | ★★★ Skink - with Nick Chappell | 110m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 2nd Sep 2014 | |||
Yeah baby! Superb line, awesome climb.
Got a couple of wires stuck in the belay so had to abseil down with a rock. |
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18 | ★★ Island Cruise - with Darren Thompson | 30m | Bundaleer Area | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Oct 2014 | |||
Really loved this route - it deserves a star in my book. Face climbing with no chalk to lead the way. The last move was a bit exciting too!
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18 | ★★ Aardvark - with Philippe Brodeur | 18m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||
Made me work a bit.
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18 | ★ Dude Boobs - with Philippe Brodeur | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | ||||
I felt the 2nd bolt wasn't required. It could be 17 with 2 bolts or 18 with just the 1st bolt.
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18 |
★★★ Eurydice
- with
Philippe Brodeur
1
18
lead by
Cameron
2
18
lead by
Philippe Brodeur
| 65m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||
Move onto the belay ledge was spicy! It rained while we were on the ledge so I got scared and Phil did the 2nd pitch.
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18 | ★★★ Death Row - with Philippe Brodeur | 45m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Thought I might have been condemned in that cell for life. Eventually worked out how to escape (there is chalk everywhere and most of it is no use.) The second crux at 2/3 height is also pretty nice.
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18 | ★★★ Entertainer - with Philippe Brodeur | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 8th Oct 2014 | |||
Stellar route. Good protection. Very sustained after the low crux, strenuous to place gear there, then continuously absorbing before the final climax through the roof.
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18 | ★ Free Beer - with Elisa | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Nov 2014 | |||
Pretty good. Funky move at the crux.
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18 | ★★ King Rat - with Elisa Chaplin | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Nov 2014 | |||
Required a bit of grunting to get up this. No time to hang around! Gear was pretty good but the rock is a bit average in places - i knocked a bit out while placing a cam.
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18 | ★ Shanghai - with Elisa Chaplin | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Nov 2014 | |||
Crux leaving the ground with no gear. Really nice climb after that. Loose blocks on top
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18 | ★★ Virginia - with Elisa Chaplin | 25m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Nov 2014 | |||
Awesome line. Very sustained. Gets steeper and steeper as you go. Great summer climb.
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18 | ★★ Paua Crack - with Altair | 33m | Waitpinga | ★ Good | Thu 12th Feb 2015 | |||
Not much of a "line" as such until after Its Barque. Nice climbing. Only one hard section, which I think I made much worse than necessary. Felt like 19 but I think there was a better way.
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18 | ★ Scotch Missed - with Anton Steketee | 22m, 1 | Onkaparinga | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Feb 2015 | |||
A little nervous until I clipped the bolt.
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18 | ★★ Huey - with Elisa Chaplin | 16m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Mar 2015 | |||
Man i love placing wires like this! Stellar route.
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18 | ★★ Lepus Offus DS - with Geoff | 20m, 4 | Warren Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Jul 2015 | |||
Great position, superb climbing, beautiful area. Maybe I just love the flinders ranges? My first climb here.
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18 | ★ Pestilence - with Geoff | 15m, 5 | Warren Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 31st Jul 2015 | |||
Some tough moves, depending on what you avoid. Can place a cam between 1st and 2nd bolts.
2 bolts on top to belay from, or build a toprope and lower off. |
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17 | ★ Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight | Waitpinga | Sun 20th Nov 2011 | |||||
Finished up the arete - tough going and very little gear. Belaying at the CTD top anchors extremely picturesque an great to sit down.
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17 | ★ Macbeth - with Anton Steketee | 30m | Morialta | ★ Good | Sun 25th Nov 2012 | |||
Stacked loose blocks down low, but alright climbing. Took me a few tries to commit after the bolt.
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17 | ★★ Swinging - with Starkey | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Dec 2012 | |||
Took some natural pro as well, seemed like a good first 17 at Arapiles.
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17 | ★★ Dirge | 85m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 21st Dec 2012 | |||
Only a short crux, first two thirds of the climb is relatively easy. My first trad 17 at araps.
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17 | ★★ Surface To Air - with Starkey, barnsey | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Dec 2012 | |||
Tough start, need a small cam. Then superb climbing.
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17 | ★★ Vandal - with Viv Hughan | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd May 2013 | |||
Linked P1+2. Start fairly strenuous. Second pitch nice. Third pitch superb.
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17 | ★★ lphigenia - with Sam Moffat | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | |||
Felt really strong on this, or maybe it's soft at the grade? Bit of farting around to get off the top.
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17 17 R | ★★ Oedipus Rex - with Nick Chappell | 150m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th May 2014 | |||
Unprotected boulder problem off ground, took me a few attempts. I suggest anchoring your belayer/spotter. After that it was a fairly pleasant route. Traverse on P1 exciting. Some nearby climbers made some suggestions for pulling around the roof on P4.
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17 | ★★ Garden Gnome - with Nick Chappell | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th May 2014 | |||
Was a little worried after seeing it was previously rated 18 here on thecrag, but it felt like an easy 17 to me. My reach might have helped.
Takes great pro, I laced it up waiting for the crux that never came. |
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17 | ★★ Discord Direct - with Nick Chappell | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 8th May 2014 | |||
Loved it. Gear was sufficient. Didn't see the old carrot mentioned in the guide.
|
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17 | ★ Mexican Madness - with Nick | 10m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||
Pretty goey moving up to the flake! Placing gear was strenuous.
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17 | ★★ Gerontian - with Darren, Chris | 46m | Bundaleer Area | ★★★ Classic | Thu 2nd Oct 2014 | |||
Led up the arete on the left. Linked p1 and p2. A bd 4 cam would have been great for p2! P2 was excellent.
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17 | ★★ Absolute Alcohol - with Nick Chappell | 23m, 1 | Onkaparinga | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Oct 2014 | |||
Jamming! Exciting route.
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17 | ★★★ Mari - with Elisa | 35m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 25th Oct 2014 | |||
Got a bit scared at the jam crack so built a belay and brought Elisa up. Got braver and headed up. Super awesome climb. Placed more gear than was necessary but that's what I do when I'm peaking...
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17 | ★ Cruxless Knickers - with Elisa | 25m | Arapiles | Sun 26th Oct 2014 | ||||
Exciting route but it's only 2 moves long. Didn't see any loose blocks (as mentioned in the description.) There was one large flake though.
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17 | ★ Reunion - with Elisa Chaplin | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 8th Nov 2014 | |||
I'm 193cm tall. Placed a high cam at the start at full stretch to protect the crux rockover move.
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17 | ★ Lucky Charm - with Geoff | 15m, 3 | Warren Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Jul 2015 | |||
Tough move at the first overhang. Are the bolts rusty or is that just the paint?
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17 | ★ Anodised Rabbit - with Geoff | 15m, 3 | Warren Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 31st Jul 2015 | |||
Pleasant enough.
|
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17 | ★★ Buckley's - with Geoff | 20m | Moonarie | ★★ Very Good | Thu 30th Jul 2015 | |||
Great finish to Outside Chance. Shame it doesn't last long until it's broken by the ledge.
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16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga - with Dylan, Chewy | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Nov 2012 | |||
Borrowed a bunch of small/micro cams (ended up with 17 cams total) for this (my first 16 lead at Araps) and it didn't seem runout at all. Placed just 1 nut.
|
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16 | ★ The Shaman (The Sharman) - with Anton Steketee | 12m | Morialta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Nov 2012 | |||
Any hard moves are well protected.
|
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16 | ★★ Saracen | 110m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Dec 2012 | |||
3rd pitch super awesome. 4th a disappointment.
|
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16 16 R | ★ Blow by Blow - with Mike Barnes | 59m | Arapiles | Average | Thu 20th Dec 2012 | |||
Not worth a star. Could easily see a ground fall happening near the start (which is the crux). Would not climb it again.
Once you get to the first decent gear at about 8m it's quite nice climbing. |
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16 | ★ Kamikaze - with Mieka Webb | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jan 2013 | |||
Maybe half a star. Found the crux quite tough, not sure if it's because I am tall? Mieka cruised it on 2nd.
Good small wires at crux. |
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16 |
★ Decibel
- with
Toby
1
lead by
me
2
| 50m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 29th Jan 2013 | |||
Climbed P1 only. Ambling until the quite pronounced but well protected crux.
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16 | ★ Jason - with Viv Hughan | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||
some slick moves through the initial corner.
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16 | ★ Jason - with Viv Hughan | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||
some slick moves through the initial corner.
|
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16 |
★★ Skylark
- with
Anton Steketee
1
16
lead by
Cameron
| 85m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Jan 2014 | |||
One definite crux - very pleasant though.
|
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16 |
★ Deathwatch Beetle (Deathwatch Beetle Linkup The Lute Direct)
- with
Anton Steketee
1
13
linkup The Lute Direct
, lead by
Anton
3
16
lead by
Cameron
4
10
lead by
Anton
| 130m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 8th Jan 2014 | |||
Climbed Menz + Tempest version. Crux pitch very nice - very thin face moves followed very closely by steep jugs - contrasting. The rest of the route was a bit mediocre though.
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16 | ★★ Arab - with Sam Moffat | 110m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 25th Apr 2014 | |||
Started in wrong R facing corner (closer to eskimo nell.)
Linked P1+2 (horrible rope drag)
Crux felt very hard at 15. A solid 16 I would say!! I went across and back about 7 or 8 times before committing to a very awkward sequence.
Sam led the final 2 pitches.
Ropes got stuck on top part of abseil
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16 | ★★ Coming on Chris - with Sam Moffat | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | |||
Felt tough, but well protected so all good. Quite sequency traversing left.
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16 | ★ Stentor 3rd Pitch - with Sam Moffat | 12m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th Apr 2014 | |||
A little gem.
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16 | ★★ The Frog - with Darren Thompson | 45m | Bundaleer Area | ★ Good | Wed 1st Oct 2014 | |||
Linked p1+p2. For p3 I stepped left into the mossy chasm which detracted from the climb. I wonder if it might have been better to go straight up.
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16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution - with Tim Grinter, Cassie | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Jan 2015 | |||
Stellar line. Got into the Flow. Not much of a crack climber but thought i did pretty well on this.
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16 16 R | ★★ The Confession - with Elisa Chaplin | 45m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Mar 2015 | |||
A few moves above your gear
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15 |
★★ Crack Up (Crack Up P1)
- with
Geoff
1
lead by
Cameron
| 38m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jul 2015 | |||
P1 only. Very pleasant, nice moves and being in the sun on a winter afternoon was great. Abseil chains - 20m? 2nd and 3rd bolts of The Scarlett Pimpernell are too close to this route in my opinion.
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16 | ★★ Tim Tam - with Geoff | 30m | Moonarie | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Jul 2015 | |||
Finish was unexpectedly challenging. Good route. 30m abseil from chains at top.
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15 |
★★★ Outside Chance (Outside Chance Linkup Buckley's)
- with
Geoff
1
lead by
Cameron
2
linkup Buckley's
| 50m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 30th Jul 2015 | |||
Stellar position, absolutely amazing. Well protected. I think grade 15 but maybe it's just because we'd been at the moon for 4 days. Did Buckley's finish.
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15 | ★ Clea Direct Finish | 16m | Morialta | Wed 20th Oct 2010 | ||||
Hard work at the top, but great to get it out!
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15 | ★ The Thinker | 16m | Morialta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Mar 2011 | |||
Nice climb. Steep dirt on the exit a bit unpleasant.
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14 15 | ★★ Toccata | 50m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Jun 2011 | |||
Grade 15 in volume 2 of Araps Selected. Loved it - protection great. With Anton.
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15 | ★★ True North Easy Variant | 17m | Waitpinga | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Mar 2012 | |||
Great pro.
|
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15 | Pony Express | 14m | Morialta | Average | Thu 22nd Mar 2012 | |||
Good fun getting out of the cave.
|
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15 | ★★ Absolute Alcohol RHV | 23m, 1 | Onkaparinga | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Mar 2012 | |||
Very enjoyable
|
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15 | ★★ Agent Orange | 25m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st May 2012 | |||
Great climbing, very sustained. Loved it!
|
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15 | ★ Bozo | 12m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jun 2012 | |||
Exciting top-out.
Building the top anchor required some creativity also. |
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15 | ★ Orange Crush | 10m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jun 2012 | |||
Enjoyed it!
|
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16 15 | ★★ Another Man's Juliet - with Toby | 48m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Oct 2012 | |||
Linked pitches. Steep and airy through the crux moves. Seemed to be some extra bolts between this and The Eyrie above the cave.
|
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15 | ★★ The Carthaginian (The Carthagenian) - with Toby | 33m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Oct 2012 | |||
Crack climbing! Not something I have done much of. This got me pretty excited.
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15 | ★ Puppy Love - with jess | 35m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 20th Oct 2012 | |||
Plenty of variety, big ledge detracts somewhat.
|
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15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities - with jess | 30m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Oct 2012 | |||
Beautiful
|
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15 | ★★ Bulger - with Anton | 60m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd Oct 2012 | |||
Very exciting and committing. Wind added to the atmosphere.
|
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15 | Aga - with Dylan | 13m | Morialta | Don't Bother | Fri 2nd Nov 2012 | |||
Squeezing yourself between two other routes for 3m of climbing doesn't appeal to me.
|
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15 | ★★ Kaiser - with Starkey | 110m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Dec 2012 | |||
Pitches 1-3. Great traversing at end of 3rd pitch.
|
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15 | ★ The Philanthropist - with Starkey | 30m | Arapiles | Average | Tue 18th Dec 2012 | |||
Nothing specialStarkey
|
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15 | ★★ Indigenous - with Kate Lord | 20m | Red Rock | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Dec 2012 | |||
Superb. Step left at the top for full value.
|
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15 | ★★ Jabberwocky - with Kate Lord | 20m | Red Rock | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th Dec 2012 | |||
Tough overcoming the first bulge to get into the crack.
|
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15 | ★★ Sundance - with Darren, Norman | 140m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Jan 2013 | |||
2nd pitch was the best bit. Linked pitches 2+3. Pitch 4 wandered a bit, doubles were handy.
|
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15 |
★ Viagra (Viagra P1)
- with
Mieka Webb
1
15
lead by
Cameron
| 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Jan 2013 | |||
Pitch 1 felt stout at 15, but then we ran out of light (mostly due to P1 being harder than expected and taking me a long time) and so I chickened out of p2. Tried to lead out right and up to what I thought was the top in the dark. Arrived at large ledge, not the top, well and truly dark. Rapped of a sling. Will have to come back for pitch 2!
|
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15 |
★ Viagra
- with
Toby Phillips
1
15
lead by
Me
2
15
lead by
Me
| 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Jan 2013 | |||
Came back to get this out in daylight. First pitch has interesting moves, utilising both the chimney and the crack. Second pitch very thin to start, then it eases off.
|
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15 | ★★ Ejaculation - with Viv Hughan | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st May 2013 | |||
first pitch quite nice, stellar curving sickle layback on second pitch, then mediocre
|
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15 | ★ Smooth Journey - with Anton | 44m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th Jan 2014 | |||
Great climb. Surely worth two stars if it wasn't for the bees.
We finished at the Gay Olympics anchor. |
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15 | ★★ Necrophilliac - with Nick Chappell | 25m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 6th Jun 2014 | |||
Jams are not my strong point, but I got through it. There was only really one section that didn't have any face holds.
|
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15 | ★ Scylla - with Elisa | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Aug 2014 | |||
Exciting, great route.
|
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15 | ★ ScarIet Sage - with Nick | 10m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||
Great gear. Good to get back on the sharp end after a slightly sore shoulder over the past few days. A few tough moves at the top.
|
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15 | ★★ Siamese Crack - with Nick | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||
Full on! I think I'm still on my jamming L plates.
|
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15 | ★ The Venus Trap - with Elisa Chaplin | 15m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Nov 2014 | |||
Cool climb. Not sure about putting gear behind some of the flakes on the traverse.
|
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15 | ★ Iron Butterfly - with Tim Grinter, Cassie | 28m | Frog Buttress | ★ Good | Wed 21st Jan 2015 | |||
The first half is quite nice but the top detracts from the experience. Felt it was a big step up in difficulty from Electric Lead.
|
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15 | ★★★ Hangover Layback - with Geoff | 90m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th Jul 2015 | |||
Felt like 16 but perhaps only because it was freezing cold and windy. Shade from mid morning in winter. Holds are huge but you have to commit to the move!
Every pitch is awesome, an iconic route. |
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15 | ★★ Moondance - with Geoff | 35m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Jul 2015 | |||
Well protected and not sandbagged! Great route. I kept on looking out left for chains but in the end the crack leads you straight to them.
|
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16 15 | ★★ Melodrama - with Geoff | 45m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Jul 2015 | |||
I'm going to call this 16 if you don't touch the Yanama corner. Anything from 12-15 if you do touch it. Took 4 and 5 BD cams which were helpful. Ended up reversing a move and putting a foot in Yanama to rest which was disappointing. Belay is awkward if you are block leading, but might be ok if you were swinging leads. Maybe better to belay on the huge ledge as for yanama. 2nd pitch was superb!! (not 12 though.) Abseil chains at top - 5m to your right 50m abseil.
|