Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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19 | ★ Pacemaker - with Ray | 110m, 3 | Arapiles | Fri 7th Sep 2018 | ||||
Led all. Found the first crux hard but managed to not fall off. Not completely relaxed about the construction job holding bits of the next pitch together but it seemd to work.
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19 | ★★ Touch-Type - with Nod | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | Thu 27th Jun 2019 | ||||
Finally got around to this. Chalk-free, found myself reaching for the missing chalk-bag a few times but my jacket being blown up around my ears provided suitable distraction.
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19 | Unemploid | 15m | Arapiles | Average | Sat 5th Nov 2011 | |||
Bit contrived. Gear not so good after crux. Nice moves though
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19 | ★ Voidoid | 20m | Arapiles | Average | Sun 6th Nov 2011 | |||
19 | ★ Psalm 69 | 36m | Arapiles | Average | Wed 25th Apr 2012 | |||
With Steve. Felt like 18. Bees in Nativity at stance above first bulge
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19 | Antiquity | 22m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 21st Apr 2012 | |||
With Steve, Nod, Norm. Quite good climbing. Avoided the hanging block, it looked dangerous.
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19 | ★★ Little By Little - with Pat Ford | 32m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Mar 2018 | |||
Finally got onto this and it lived up to expectations. Got some good gear clusters on the top wall.
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18 | ★ Interlude - with Maureen, Ray | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | Tue 13th Mar 2018 | ||||
18 | ★★ Omaha Beach | 80m, 1 | Arapiles | Average | Sat 14th Apr 2012 | |||
With Ray. Led 1 &2. Start felt insecure in warm conditions. Lots of easy climbing between the harder bits.
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18 | ★ Artificial Insemination | 130m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 24th Nov 2011 | |||
Good line and great cut loose move on lip of overhang high on cliff. Wasn't sure of grade but compares with top pitch of Transatlantic crossing. Worth doing but peregrines are a bit frisky at the moment though.
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18 | ★★ A Whale Of A Time Direct Finish | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 14th Jan 2012 | |||
Nice moves. Not hard but initial pro is not cliff-towing
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17 | ★★ Creon - with Geoff, Norm | 95m | Arapiles | Wed 4th Jun 2014 | ||||
Did 1st pitch and then rained. No problem as this was the pitch I waned to do.
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17 | Tallness is something Other People Suffer From | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 30th May 2016 | |||
With Ray. Not bad. Easier lead than 'I am a Banana Expert' despite having a harder move. Loose rocks on the traverse to the rap anchor makes it dangerous having more than one party in the area. We had a close call when a loop of rope flipped a sizeable rock off. Needs a clean up there.
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16 16 R | Ship of Fools | 40m | Arapiles | Crap | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
15 15 R | Drone Bee | 60m | Mt Rosea | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Great line but poor protection, fragile rock, vegetation
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15 | ★★ Mr Hyde | 15m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 19th May 2012 | |||
Quite nice really. Much more elegant than it looks. Exciting finish. With Steve and Norm
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16 15 | ★ I am a Banana Expert | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 30th May 2016 | |||
With Ray. Good climbing but being able to step off right into the grade 8 at many points lower down detracted a bit. Puzzle at the top bolt as the obvious moves were on uncleaned rock just left of the bolt. Moves up to the top bolt were quite committing, having to high-step above the #3 camalot which is the only effective piece and while good, not what I'd call beyond doubt bomb-proof. This lead took me a deal longer than that of 'Tallness is something other people suffer from' (but then I do have some degree of tallness. Impressive leads from Wendy who does not have tallness.
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14 | ★ Razor's Edge | 7m | Summerday Valley | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
14 | ★ West Coast Dogma - with all and sundry | 33m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 12th Nov 2012 | |||
Difficult start.
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8 | Heath Row | 48m | Arapiles | Average | Sun 27th May 2012 | |||
Had to check out the grade given that it has been graded both 8 and 15! Definitely on the easy side of 8 but quite a long and enjoyable pitch. Do it now while the vegetation is suppressed!
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20 | FA ★ Surfacing - with Maureen | 88m, 4 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 19th Oct 2013 | |||
19 | FA Trotskyist Tendency | 35m, 3 | Arapiles | Sat 12th May 2012 | ||||
19 | FA Renunciation - with Maureen, Norm | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | Sat 16th Mar 2013 | ||||
Amazing weather. Wind gusts, rain, dust-storm and sun all on 1 pitch.
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18 | FA ★ To Say Nothing Of The Dog - with Nod | 77m, 4 | Arapiles | Sat 28th Jul 2018 | ||||
18 | FA Ept - with Nod | 2 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jan 2019 | |||
18 | FA ★★ Zabriskie - with Nod | 22m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 7th Jun 2019 | |||
Aded second pitch. Stunning day.
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17 | FA Beetlemania | 35m, 1 | Arapiles | Mon 30th Apr 2018 | ||||
16 | FA ★ Yatungka | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | Sun 17th Jan 2016 | ||||
with Maureen, Sean Smallacombe
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15 | FA Lacuna | 40m | Arapiles | Sat 26th May 2012 | ||||
17 | FA ★ The Empty Quarter - with Nod, Maureen | 50m, 1 | Arapiles | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | ||||
Crack of dawn approach on a hot day paid off
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14 | FA ★★ Out On A Limb - with James McIntosh | 20m, 2 | Mt Rosea | Sun 18th Jan 2015 | ||||
15 | FA ★★ Out On A Limb | 20m, 2 | Mt Rosea | Sat 9th Apr 2016 | ||||
Added the cleaned-up new start which was harder than expected but much nicer than the original.
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15 | FA Drifting Sand | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | Sat 8th Apr 2017 | ||||
I lived
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15 | FA ★ Kempt - with Nod | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 8th Jan 2019 | |||
14 | FA ★ Ngarrinarri | 35m | Arapiles | Sat 22nd Mar 2014 | ||||
13 | FA Gruntled - with Norm | 20m | Arapiles | Sat 5th Jan 2019 | ||||
20 | ★ Zero Gravitas | 25m, 4 | Arapiles | Fri 27th Jan 2012 | ||||
With Louise, but it really needs the middle bit sorted out.
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20 | ★ Zero Gravitas | 25m, 4 | Arapiles | Sat 4th Feb 2012 | ||||
With Norm. Marvellous what a couple more bolts can do for a climb.
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20 | The Long, the Short and the Tall | 140m | Arapiles | Crap | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||
Worthless
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19 | ★ Velvet Green - with Ray | 25m | Arapiles | Tue 27th Mar 2018 | ||||
19 | ★ Not Invented Here | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 31st Dec 2011 | |||
FA. Quite going for it at one point.
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18 | ★★ Golden Fleece (The Golden Fleece) - with Nod, Maureen | 35m | Arapiles | Sat 7th Jul 2012 | ||||
Felt good. Placed a sling I've never used before. Don't know why I wasted my strength
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18 | ★★ Crooked Mile - with Sol, Zac | 20m | Arapiles | Fri 13th Jul 2012 | ||||
Didn't realise it was Friday 13th. Maybe accounts for the total hash I made of it. Pumped out hanging around too long placing gear.
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17 18 | ★★ Sweet Surrender - with Norm | 60m | Arapiles | Sat 13th Oct 2012 | ||||
Backed off 1st pitch. Too pushy as 1st pitch after long break. Up start of Vandal then did 2nd pitch which I hadn't done before. Good fun moves.
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18 | ★★★ Eurydice - with Norm | 65m, 2 | Arapiles | Fri 21st Dec 2012 | ||||
Been a long time since I did this.
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18 | ★★ Morgul Khan - with Maureen and Norm | 40m | Arapiles | Sat 16th Mar 2013 | ||||
Haven't done it for donkey's years. Topo in The Crag looks a bit wonky, depicts it going way up into Morgul Can't.
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17 18 | ★ Ground Cummin | 18m | Arapiles | Mon 9th Jun 2014 | ||||
18 | ★★ Kinkaid (Kincaid) | 20m | Arapiles | Sat 25th Feb 2017 | ||||
18 | ★★ Cantata - with Ray | 35m | Arapiles | Fri 27th Apr 2018 | ||||
Ptich 2 only
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17 18 | ★★ Zabriskie - with Ray | 22m, 1 | Arapiles | Sat 29th Sep 2018 | ||||
18 | ★ To Say Nothing Of The Dog - with Ray | 77m, 4 | Arapiles | Thu 4th Oct 2018 | ||||
Repeated to see how it climbed with the cleaning on the easy bits and the new belay spot (shifted a lot of loose rock from that ledge). With that and loads more slings to extend runners no drag problems at end of pitch 2. The relocated belay makes it a very direct pitch now. Ray is pitching 19 as the grade but I don't know.
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18 | ★ The Iliad Connection - with Lee | 40m | Arapiles | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | ||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Pat | 35m | Arapiles | Thu 30th May 2019 | ||||
18 | ★★ Falcon | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 7th Aug 2011 | |||
Good, well-protected alternate start at 19 is first 10m of They shoot Pigeons... . Be careful with blocks on ledge though.
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18 | ★ Serious Callers Only | 28m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 14th Jan 2012 | |||
FA. Finally, after rained-off first attempt.
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18 | ★ Serious Callers Only - with Ray, Norm, Nod, Kurt | 28m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2012 | |||
18 | ★ Trump Tower - with Nod | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | |||
Actually quite good climbing
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18 |
★ Riding the Quayle
- with
Louise, Pat, Me
1
18
lead by
Louise
2
18
lead by
Me
3
18
lead by
Louise
4
| 130m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 5th Jun 2018 | |||
Really enjoyable despite a bit of moss and lichen. Thought all pitches were of equal difficulty, certainly felt that I might fall off each of them. I think Louise might have gone more direct on the third pitch than the original, hence a bit harder than we were expecting. Or that could just be me.
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17 | Big Silver Rocket - with Ray, Norm | 20m | Arapiles | Sat 20th Oct 2012 | ||||
Attractive feature and nice moves through overhang. Took easy right-hand finish. Left-hand groove looks best finishing option. Abseil for Verge
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17 | ★★ Behemoth - with Norm | 45m | Arapiles | Tue 18th Dec 2012 | ||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air - with Norm | 30m | Arapiles | Sat 8th Jun 2013 | ||||
Low-energy day. Felt very gumbyish
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17 | ★★ Preludes - with Norm, Maureen | 35m | Arapiles | Sat 16th Nov 2013 | ||||
Still very nice and at least a grade easier than Huey.
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15 17 | Stinkbug Shuffle - with Norm | 50m | Arapiles | Sat 14th Dec 2013 | ||||
Didn't read description properly so continued up front of buttress on top pitch. Initial moves on the pitch were quite OK but very tempting to step off right
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17 | Beetlemania - with Ed, Norm | 35m, 1 | Arapiles | Sat 2nd Jun 2018 | ||||
17 | ★★ Dirge - with Pat | 85m | Arapiles | Thu 7th Jun 2018 | ||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air - with Pat | 30m | Arapiles | Sun 1st Jul 2018 | ||||
First time I've led this on a single. No rope drag even though I stitched it up.
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17 | The Shipping News - with Rox | 68m | Arapiles | Wed 2nd Feb 2022 | ||||
Started up Hurricane Lamp Cracks. Was running first two pitches together when I encountered a death block on the traverse. Belayed early to keep control of the ropes near the block then Rox finished the short bit left of pitch, which was a bit scrubby and dirty. Rox led top pitch which had an exciting overhang which apparently looks pretty spectacular from Oceanoid. Worth doing the top pitch via The Shroud. The second pitch would have to lose its detached block to be a reasonable proposition.
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17 | Squirrel | 25m | Arapiles | Wed 9th Mar 2022 | ||||
Bit of a toughie. Logical to combine this with Marcias but best done as 2 pitches as you really want your belayer to be watching closely on the crux.
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17 | ★ Hindenburg Disaster | 45m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 15th Aug 2008 | |||
Not bad. Thin gear on easier upper half.
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17 | ★ Greenwich Reach | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 20th Feb 2016 | |||
17 | ★ Gunk In The Pimms | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th May 2016 | |||
With Nod. Gave it a good clean beforehand. Think it's probably 17 rather than 18 in it's clean state. Said it's very good, but then I'm biased.
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16 | ★ Wooden Heart | 20m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Sat 28th Jan 2012 | ||||
16 | ★ Bowler | 13m | Summerday Valley | Sat 11th Aug 2012 | ||||
Old favourite
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18 16 | Leasehold - with Ray, Norm | 22m | Arapiles | Sat 20th Oct 2012 | ||||
Character building. Followed the wide crack all the way then moved back right. Lower part of orange groove looked much harder than 16 but may just have been that I was shattered.
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16 | Shelf Life - with Norm, Geoff | 30m | Arapiles | Tue 6th Nov 2012 | ||||
16 | ★ Matador - with Norm | 100m | Mt Rosea | Thu 25th Apr 2013 | ||||
Did first 3 and a third pitches but running late so rapped off.
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16 | ★ Deathwatch Beetle - with Norm | 130m, 1 | Arapiles | Sat 15th Jun 2013 | ||||
Started up the first little bit of 'Shaggys Route' then the crack of 'Shtarde' and then left to the 'Broken Song' anchor. Not bad but drag was problem. 'Beetlemania' would have been better.
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16 | Shelf Life - with Maureen, Norm, Nod | 30m | Arapiles | Sun 19th Jan 2014 | ||||
16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack - with Sean, Maureen, Christophe | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | Tue 6th May 2014 | ||||
Mass ascent. Froze stupid on belay ledges. Still fun though.
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16 | Zorba - with Norm, Maureen | 33m | Arapiles | Sun 11th May 2014 | ||||
Fairly casual til I realised that the roof is just a huge detached block. And then the large flake on the left side of the upper groove is just another almost totally detached thing. Fun and games.
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16 | ★★ Libretto - with Norm | 50m | Arapiles | Sat 31st May 2014 | ||||
Mid-Saturday, fine but cold weather, and not another party in the Pipes
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16 | ★ Jason - with Norm, Maureen | 30m | Arapiles | Sun 25th May 2014 | ||||
Struggle. Maureen said the crack was wet but I was just all over the place.
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15 16 | ★ Resignation Left Hand Start | 35m | Arapiles | Sat 14th Jun 2014 | ||||
Reasonable climbing if a bit escapable and fiddly gear.
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16 | ★★ Skylark - with Nod, Pitch1 only | 85m | Arapiles | Sat 15th Nov 2014 | ||||
16 | ★ Pegleg | 19m | Flat Rock | Thu 17th Mar 2016 | ||||
With Norm. The piton is wonky as, make sure to hang out and place wires instead.
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16 | ★★ Yo Yo | 90m | Arapiles | Mon 31st Oct 2016 | ||||
with Geoff. One pitch to top of Central Buttress. Really satisfying way to do it. Double ropes and a few slings to prevent rope drag.
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16 | ★ Celeste | 25m | Arapiles | Sat 5th May 2018 | ||||
16 | Led Zeppelin - with Ray | 45m | Arapiles | Mon 14th May 2018 | ||||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga - with Forrest Templeton, Nod | 90m | Arapiles | Mon 23rd Jul 2018 | ||||
16 | ★★ Skylark - with Forrest Templeton, Nod | 85m | Arapiles | Sat 21st Jul 2018 | ||||
First pitch
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16 | Flying Foxes - with Norm | 30m | Arapiles | Sat 8th Dec 2018 | ||||
16 | ★★ Skylark - with Steve | 85m | Arapiles | Fri 25th Oct 2019 | ||||
Both pitches as described.
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16 | Led Zeppelin - with Rox | 45m | Arapiles | Mon 30th Oct 2023 | ||||
5 years since I last did this and looks like probably no other ascents in that time. Second pitch is good.
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18 16 | Leasehold - with Noddy, Norm | 22m | Arapiles | Average | Sat 17th Nov 2012 | |||
Properly this time. Orange groove is nice but hardish (gaston on a grade 16?)
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16 | ★★ Absolutely Fabulous | 88m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Oct 2015 | |||
With Ray. Really good first pitch. A couple of spicy runouts.
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16 | ★★ Absolutely Fabulous - with Ray | 88m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | |||
16 | ★★ Saracen - with Steve | 110m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | |||
Hadn't done this for a while. Good value.
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15 | ★★ Flake of Fear | 25m | Summerday Valley | Sat 11th Aug 2012 | ||||
Cold day. Good to start on this after a few weeks off. A rare face climb that would actually be better protected if you caried a couple of hexes.
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15 | ★★ Sundance - with Ray | 140m | Arapiles | Sat 8th Sep 2012 | ||||
Pleasant. Visit 4 to do this (crowds, weather). Ran pitche 2 &3 together.
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15 | ★ Angel Black - with Nod, Norm | 12m | Arapiles | Sat 8th Dec 2012 |