Showing all 69 ascents.
Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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670
points
| 5.10d | ★★★ The Great Game | 220m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
one of my new favorites in squamish, really nice climb
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648
points
| 5.10d | ★★ Climb and Punishment (Climb and Punishment (aka Crime and Punishment?)) | 20m | Squamish | ★ Good | Sun 14th May 2006 | |||
644
points
| 5.11c | ★★★ El Indio | 20m, 1 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Start on the left, direct is way hard. keep your eyes open and climb to the rests.
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644
points
| 5.11c | ★★★ Grand Daddy Overhang (Grandaddy Overhang) | 30m, 3 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Awsome undercling traverse, A little easier than it looks. Crux towards the end with good bolts
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644
points
| 5.11c | ★★★ Golden Road | 150m | Index Town Walls | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
5 pitches of sustained, clean, awsome face/arete climbing.P1-11c was soaked so we had to aid it, looks realy sweet, crux looks like it comes after the 2nd or third bolt. Also cosider doing a short pitch(2 bolts on face to big ledge and make belay) this way you wont ledge out going through the crux. P2-11b Super fun and sustained first crux grab the big flake and yard up to little holds, get feet up high and enjoy the stance because it gets tougher, look for a good hold out left then de-pump before the third crux gaston to slap around the arete, nice pitch. P3-10c enjoy some steep juggy climbing to a crux just before the anchors. P4-11a/b nice positive holds up the face and arete lead to a big ledge nice clip takes some of the sting out of this nasty smear/slab move. My buddy opted to dyno for the good hold and it seemed to work better than the smear, easier climbing leads to the anchors. P5-11c Starts out nice and mellow untill you get to a nice stance below a side pull. This side pull/rail feature starts off positve but then peters out. Lay it back, get feet up and reach for nice pocket/crimpy thing. Easier climbing gets you below the big roof. Again starts out with positive holds, as they peter out, reach up high to the triangle arete out left then back right for nice holds, feet up then go for nice crimp with the left hand. My feet wanted to kick out on this thing. Above the roof stays kind of tricky stay slightly left and utilize the crack feature as long as you can, dont get sucked in too far right. Easy climbing from here gets you to the anchors, very, very nice climb.
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644
points
| 5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
first nut placement is smaller than first thought. Blue omega. Remember that where it feels a little flared up top it will soon give you a nice pinch then easier finish.
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644
points
| 5.11c | ★★★ Horrors of Ivan | 20m, 2 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
juggy and steep, dont forget the knee bar after the hand travese, nice rest then thump through to the top, gear is a lttle tricky
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644
points
| 5.11c | ★★★ Crime of the Century | 15m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
blue stopper, then .50 camalot, the rest of it is nuts and aliens, dont forget the nice pinch toward the top
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544
points
| 5.10c | ★★★ Just Blessed | 35m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
A great crack climb that should recieve a bit more attention.
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520
points
| 5.11b | ★★ Even Steven | 25m | Index Town Walls | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Sweet finger stacks and locks. Two cruxes, the harder one is off the ledge the other at the top. Bring lots of aliens especially green.
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520
points
| 5.11b | ★★ Block and Tackle | 18m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Funky burly roof, very first hand jam is tricky to move off of, a little polished and slippery. Then undercling and step over and make a long reach for the horn like thingy which is good, rest, place a piece and thump through the last bit then easy slab to the top. Packs a punch for such a short climb
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520
points
| 5.11b | ★★★ The Yorkshire Gripper | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Lay back 1st crux pro is good but a little below the feet woo haa. Upper mantle move is not too bad, move out right a little.
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520
points
| 5.11b | ★★ Thriller off the Void | 20m, 3 | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
lean left, crux comes around the 2nd and third bolt, I had a nice foothold with one foot and a little smear with the other and up to a nice jug.
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520
points
| 5.11b | ★★★ Clean Crack | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
left foot in crack at crux, I got fooled into using the face holds instead. Perfect finger jams one of the best pitches Ive done
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520
points
| 5.11b | ★★ Thriller off the Void | 20m, 3 | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
520
points
| 5.11b | ★★ Silver Surfer | 35m, 8 | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
fun intresting climbing but very slippery
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520
points
| 5.11b | ★★ Famous Last Moves | 24m, 7 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
at the pull over at the end of the bulge look for a hold out right dont get suckered left, the slab at the top stay a little left.
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394
points
| 5.11a | ★★★ Thin Fingers | 35m | Index Town Walls | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
wow! crux off ledge beautiful crack climbing above
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394
points
| 5.11a | ★★ Great Grandaddy | 15m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Really fun route, tricky mantle leads to holds that are nice and positive but facing strange directions. Pull around the corner into the easy crack, be sure to rap this route because of nasty edge for rope
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394
points
| 5.11a | ★★ Xodus | 20m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Heady lead which luckily I didnt have to do. A fun one to toprope but It is a tough lead. Bring some small wires or RP's. Kind of blind placements
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394
points
| 5.11a | ★★ Perspective | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
#1 camalot at the roof, awkward above there, face crack didnt feel as bad as the bottom section. Ass kicker for the grade.
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394
points
| 5.11a | ★ Howe Unsound | 35m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
394
points
| 5.11a | ★★★ Rutabaga P2 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
One of the best at the GW base
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394
points
| 5.11a | ★★★ The Brunser Overhang | 20m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Very strange back handed back to the wall press out to a reachy jam then fun pull around the corner. I went through the crux fine and then ran out of gas at the juggy finish. Use the jugs out right not the big flake jug out left.
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371
points
| 5.11a | ★★★ The Grand Wall | 300m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th May 2006 | |||
Sweeeeet!
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371
points
| 5.11a | ★★★ The Sword | 25m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 14th May 2006 | |||
Awsome exposure!
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295
points
| 5.11b 5.10c A3 | ★★★ Lamplighter (lamp lighter to heavens gate) | 120m | Index Town Walls | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
return for the rest
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295
points
| 5.11b 5.10c A3 | ★★★ Lamplighter (lamp lighter to heavens gate) | 120m | Index Town Walls | ★★★ Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Finished it up and the top pitch is great. 2nd roof is tricky. Im not sure what grades have been given but I felt like it went as follows,
Lamplighter 1st pitch 11a
step over to move belay 5.7
Over roof follow bolts 11a
Follow more bolts using arete 5.10b/c
More bolts through the awsome double roofs 11b/c
Great route
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295
points
| 5.11b 5.10c A3 | ★★★ Lamplighter (lamp lighter to heavens gate) | 120m | Index Town Walls | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
1st 2 pitches were great, need to return for the top 2. pitches go 10c (sandbag, really 11b), 11a, 10+, and 11b/c.
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295
points
| 5.11b 5.11b A3 | ★ Dana's Arch | Index Town Walls | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
287
points
| 5.11b 5.11b A3 | ★ Dana's Arch | Index Town Walls | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jul 2006 | ||||
Great way to end the day after davis holland route, dana's arch is nicely retro bolted (a bit of spice making the first clip)
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270
points
| 5.10d 5.10d II | ★★★ Zoom | Index Town Walls | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
Fun knobs, kept me on my toes, bring small rp's, Better is cool weather
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270
points
| 5.10d | ★★ Pulling Muscles (pulling mussles) | 23m, 6 | Squamish | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
nice climb but like silver surfer awkward and slippery
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144
points
| 5.10c | ★★ Paul Maul | Tieton River Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
nice jams and edges
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144
points
| 5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
144
points
| 5.10c 5.10c/d | ★ Lust | 22m, 4 | Squamish | Average | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
144
points
| 5.10c | ★ Hot Wire | 18m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
144
points
| 5.10c | ★★ Lovin' Arms | Index Town Walls | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
Chimney above is not as dirty as it looks and you can stem around the moss and wetness. Getting to it I climbed the offwidth because both it and the hand crack to the right of it were soaked and I felt more secure in a wet offwidth than a hand crack. The next pitch I first tried the 11c var. but got a little spooked traversing over to the sling. The move doesnt seem too bad but the fall would be nasty. Its a little like the sensless thoughts var. lower down, the 10c var. was really nice though and you can protect the horizontal crack nicely. Then fun face/crack climbing above. The final pitch had some steep juggy features but gets pretty run out and it was wet right on the key hold so I clipped the bolt and went up a few feet and then went hard left traverse through some loose blocks to the top. All in all a fun addition to Davis Holland. The pitches are much better lower down on Davis Holland. Ive heard climbers compare this route to the Grand Wall in Squamish. In my humble opinion it is a great route but doesnt come close to The Grand.
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144
points
| 5.10c | ★★★ Even Steven | 35m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Nice varied climbing, long pitch with a couple cruxy sections. The top out was the harder part for me. Sequence hands differently next time
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144
points
| 5.10c 5.10c/d | ★★★ Right Wing | 150m, 4 | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
BURLY! Damn tuff, wide, and long, long pitches. two 200 ft pitches, and the Filibuster is pretty sustained. Turn right shoulder in the first offwidth section and utilize face crack better. The top "bird beak" pitch is a wide undercling to a straddle then a little more offwidth to the top. You can retrieve your #5 from the undercling by reaching down through the flake and pulling it through the top. A memorable climb.
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144
points
| 5.10c | ★ Hot Wire | 18m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Great warmup. After the roof which is pretty straight forward, feel around on face holds for the good ones. Make sure you double up the pro where you can get it because through the face moves your a bit above your piece
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144
points
| 5.10c | ★★★ Centre Street | 45m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Long pitch! Crux above (skip the anchors), pro the crack out right, sweet climb
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144
points
| 5.10c | ★ Hot Wire | 18m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
144
points
| 5.10c | ★ Side Street | 45m, 2 | Squamish | Average | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
98
points
| 5.10 | ★★★ Gold Rush | 24m | Trout Creek | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
wow! Not a bad jam all the way to the top, Little bit of funk right at the end. Name of the game at Trout Creek is to climb fast. Rack was like so- Camalot sizes- 3 #3's, four#2's, 1 or two #1's, 1 #4 for the bottom, I cant remember if any .75's are necessary.
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74
points
| 5.10 5.10b/c | ★★★ Mr. Squiggles (Mr. Squiggle) | 24m | Trout Creek | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
A tough little move down low, red alien and then .50, two or three #3's, 3 or four # 2's, 2 or 3 #1's, and another .50 for the top. I was so pumped after gold rush I didnt stand a chance, I would like to try this one earlier in the day, no real hard moves, just really pumpy after 3 other Trout Creek cracks
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20
points
| 5.10b | ★★ Wildfire | 20m | Smith Rock State Park | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
20
points
| 5.10b | ★★★ Badfinger | 25m | Smith Rock State Park | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
20
points
| 5.10b | Trixie | 8m | Squamish | Average | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
20
points
| 5.10b | ★★ Orange Sunshine | Tieton River Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
beautiful finger crack, funky gear
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20
points
| 5.10b | ★★ Rutabaga P1 | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
20
points
| 5.10b | ★★★ Caboose | 25m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
I didnt enjoy this as much as I thought I would. Awkward, but demanded good technique
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20
points
| 5.10b | ★★ White Rabbit | 10m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
20
points
| 5.10b | ★★ Arrowroot | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
Rattly
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0
points
| 5.10b | ★★★ Arrowroot | 33m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th May 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.10b | ★★ Rutabaga p1 | 30m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th May 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.10b | ★★ Birds of Prey | 180m | Squamish | ★ Good | Sun 7th May 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Jabberwocky | 20m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.10a | ★★ Breakfast of Champions | 12m | Index Town Walls | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.10a | ★★ Jungle Warfare | 120m | Squamish | ★ Good | Sun 7th May 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.9 | ★ DGS (DGS route) | 110m | Index Town Walls | Average | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
might be ok if it saw a little traffic, 2nd pitch is pretty long about 140ft or so but not very sustained after the first 50ft. Dont bother with the last little pitch. There is some potential for a short variation here.
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0
points
| 5.9 | ★ Jam Exam | Tieton River Canyon | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | ||||
good warm up
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0
points
| 5.9 | ★★ Cold Comfort | 20m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.9 | ★★ Joe’s Crack | 15m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.9 | ★★ Clandestine Affair | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
Nice
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0
points
| 5.9 | ★ Roger's Corner | 36m, 1 | Index Town Walls | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.9 | ★★ Wonderland | 30m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.8 | ★★ Pixie Corner (Pixie's Corner) | 15m | Squamish | ★ Good | Thu 27th Jul 2006 | |||
0
points
| 5.8 | ★ Free Willy | 24m, 3 | Squamish | Average | Thu 27th Jul 2006 |
Showing all 69 ascents.