Ascents by Noah Boudreau-Richard

Fun unclimbed route. It is not on the topo provided at the SEBKA entrance. It is not as cleaned as most of the routes at Kamouraske because of Liberté 55 which is climbed more often.

Pas capable de retrouver la séquence de départ

I have mixed feelings about this one... The climbing undoutebly sucks. It's a long chossy, runout scramble with too many beginners tossing rocks down. But then the scenery of the fall and the tunnel are exceptionnal. I'd say if you're planning on climbing this, stay at the campground and alpine start (4-5 am) to make sure you're the first party on the climb. As many have said, it's a runout sport climb (1-2 bolts per pitch) with a few trad pieces options. That said, it is quite easy to go off route (everything is easy and doesn't look too appealing) and having trad gear offers you many more options. Rock quality is poor so there are runout sections that you wouldn't want to protect with cams.

Descent: the new descent beta on MP is the way to go. Backlead the traverse and rappel the first 2 pitches. Pulling ropes WILL toss down rocks on parties below.

Variant pitches: After the long traverse, it's it possible to head around the right of the pinnacle (p6-7?) if the waterfall isn't too big. Much nicer ambiance and climbing. 0.5-#2 were useful.

Trés beau 2e pitch mais souvent mouillé. Amenez des tricams!

Was originally going to climb La petite Delphine but ended up on this climb.

P1 Climbs all sport with a tricky move up the chimney at the start.

P2 Is a very nice climb that follows the crack. I placed a few tricams and 2-3 cams. Almost ran short of draws but finally made it to the top.

You can't see your second climbing from the belay and since it is a traverse if the second takes a fall it is hard to get back onto the route.

Can be sport climbed if you're willing to run out the 5.7 hand crack. Otherwise, bring a single no.1

Nice movement on surprisingly ok rock.

Climbed the tree start to get to angel crack to free an old cam. Rappelled back down after.

Most pitches are good but intertwined with forest "pitches".

Took the bolted slab start. 8h ascent. 2h hike off. Partner dropped an approach shoe.

Midnight ascent. 2 pitch, simul. 57 min. Took the 5.10a var. by accident.

Placed a .75 (slightly runout in the easier part) and the rest was sport. Feels like a red river gorge climb! Pumpy for the grade.

Well worth the climb, protects very well (especially with tricams)

Still a little drity (we broke a 50cm*50cm*20cm piece off). Pretty airy pitch, nice moves up the overhanging arete. This is a one move wonder with a pretty far reach. I worked the move until I found the way to do it. Lowered and redpointed the pitch. 5'9", +1 ape index.

Quite a lot more tricky than it looks getting over those bulges. Took many falls. Definitely a future project.

This route is not climbed often. We cleaned the crux section of the climb. The first (easier) part is trad and takes good pros. The rest is sport with a 4-5m crux section that is very hard on the fingers with a hard sequence.

Was still wet and icy. We went up to clean a deathblock from above. Protects well.

If you're in for a little challenge try the direct start, brings it up to about 10d for that little section.

Could be a bold but easy sport climb.

Great first half, the second not so much.

Went full on chimney on this one. Quite strenuous

Climbed with a set of nut, a few tricams and two bolts.

Almost lost private pinky but the rescue mission was successful.

Tricky route finding! Especially P2!

Pretty consistent at the grade. Technical moves feel like 5.8 but the angle brings it back down to 5.6

One chopped bolt at the last move of P4 feels like it should of stayed.

Used small gear. Do not under estimate.

49m Last pitch needs its bolt back...

This was my first real trad lead, felt good to come back and climb it.

Linked P1+P2 into a 71m pitch