Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon 11th Mar 2024 - Portneuf | ||||||
| Lac Long La Plage | ||||||
| 5.8 |
Salopette
- with
Phil
| 30m, 3 | ||||
|
Was still wet and icy. We went up to clean a deathblock from above. Protects well.
|
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| Fri 16th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Outrage Wall | ||||||
| 5.11b |
★ Moctezuma'z Tufa
- with
Lea
| 14m, 5 | ||||
|
Watched someone pull the crux which helped a lot.
|
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| 5.10b ~5.10a |
★★ Little Route, Big Tufa
- with
Lea
| 16m, 7 | ||||
|
Great 3 moves of 3D tufa climbing. I managed to get two handjams, three knee bars and a hip jam going while leading on twin ropes. Classic outrage wall techniques.
|
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| 5.13d |
★★ Slippery Down Under P1
- with
Lea
1
| 100m, 13 | ||||
|
First pitch only. Great climbing. Watched two people pull the crux sequence before me, which helped a lot. Great rest ledge, then don't blow it to the anchors. Staying left after the last bolt is slightly harder but a lot of fun!
|
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| 5.10d |
★ Grocals
- with
Lea
| |||||
|
Great climbing. Holds are hard to spot. Traverses left near the end and most people tend to climb too high and run out of holds. I high clipped, then used the massive tufa jugs to traverse far left before reaching the anchors.
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| Thu 15th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Front Side El Mirador | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★ Access Denied
- with
Lea
1
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
2
| 100m | ||||
|
We got denied access. Lead P1 in the rain and decided to call it quits considering the description.
|
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| Wed 14th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Mini Super | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★ El Volvo Scorcho
- with
Lea
| 24m, 10 | ||||
|
The guidebook states "more bolts than holds". I found plenty of both!
|
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| 5.9 |
★ Left-over Man
- with
Lea
| 26m, 8 | ||||
|
Not bolted for a 5.9 leader. First bolt is not a cruise.
|
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| 5.8 |
★ Honor Among Thieves
- with
Lea
| 27m, 7 | ||||
|
Yes, I took a fall...
|
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| Wed 14th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Buzz Rock | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Five Pitch Harmony
- with
Thomas Brassard
| 140m, 12 | ||||
|
First speedrun attempt with Thom. 38.51 minutes. That approach is a bitch...
|
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| Tue 13th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Buzz Rock | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Sphincter Squeeze
- with
Lea
1
lead by
Lea
2
lead by
Lea
3
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
4
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
5
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
| 120m | ||||
|
Much like it's sister (5p harmony). Still has some loose pebbles, but mostly cleaned. Climbing has more interesting sequences than 5ph but is much more wandery. Linked P1+2 and P3+4+5 with a 70m. Rope drag was a pain but could of have been managed by skipping the first 2-3 bolts of P5.
|
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| Mon 12th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.12a |
★★★ Yankee Clipper
- with
Lea
1
5.8
2
5.8
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.9
6
5.10b
7
5.9
8
5.9
9
lead by
Lea
10
5.10b
11
5.9
12
5.9
13
5.8
14
5.10b
15
5.12a
| 460m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Linked 2 pitches everytime. Stopped at p13. 5h climbing. We both felt like the entire climb was 5.9 with a 5.10 move here and there apart from P10's crux. The 3rd class anchor had cheap hardware store carabiners. We decided to backlead on the way down to avoid dislodging loose rocks and trusting that hardware.
|
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| Sun 11th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★ Jungle Mountaineering
- with
Lea
1
lead by
Lea
2
lead by
Lea
3
4
| 120m | ||||
|
The first three pitches are very similar. 90% positive holds, pockets and good movement. 10% has polished feet, making the cruxes harder and scarier. The bolts are spread out but not runout. The last pitch is the hardest 5.10a I've done in potrero. Linked P3+4.
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| 5.9 |
★★ Las Chimuelas
- with
Lea
| 69m | ||||
|
Linked P1+2. I beleive I had enough rope to link it into one pitch but minimal simul might be required for that. Much better access to the jungle blowl than "Jungle mountaineering". The climb showed me that overhung 5.8 moves exist! I didn't feel like the second pitch was harder than the other two.
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| Sat 10th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Cat Wall | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Eterna Luz
- with
Lea
| 30m, 9 | ||||
| 5.10a |
★★ Putas de Fuego
- with
Lea
| 30m, 10 | ||||
| Sat 10th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Virgin Canyon Lower Virgin Wall | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★★ Selam
- with
Lea
| 39m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 9th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Front Side Zapatista Wall | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Satori
- with
Lea
3
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
4
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
5
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
6
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
7
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
| 210m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Climbed after descending from "Off the couch". Linked P3+4, P6+7. On the rappels, linked P7+6+5 with TWO 70m ropes.
|
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| 5.10d |
★★★ Off The Couch
- with
Lea
1
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
2
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
3
lead by
Lea
4
lead by
Lea
5
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
6
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
7
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
| 180m, 13 | ||||
|
The best route we've been on this trip. The last three pitches are mostly a continuous 5.10a face with a few slightly harder moves. Linking any combination will have you salivating in awe of the climbing and swearing at the bolting. Bring runners.
We linked P1+2, P3+4, P5+6. Linked the rappels for P7+6+5 with TWO 70m ropes and P4+3 with ONE 70m rope. |
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| Wed 7th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| The Jungle Wall | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★★★ Black Cat Bone
- with
Lea
3
5.6
lead by
Lea
Easy but very runout. No fall terrain.
4
lead by
Lea
Beware of loose rocks. Mind your rope. Fixed rope was in place (feb 2024)
5
5.9
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Hollow flake balancing on hollow flake. Well bolted considering the rock quality limitations. Use precaution and alpine climbing technique.
6
5.10d
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Technical face climbing that gets harder and harder the more you climb. There is a rest before pulling the roof for the leader, but the second will be exposed. Boulder problem to pull the roof.
7
5.10b
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Short but very nice and well bolted. Technical stemming and a few finger jams.
8
5.10b
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Between a closed dihedral and a flaring chimney. The climbing is not confidence inspiring and the pitch packs a punch.
9
5.9
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Not as runout as it used to be but very badly bolted. For confident 5.9 leaders. | 270m, 14 | ||||
|
Sandbagged compared to the rest of potrero. Great climbing throughout. Crux pitch is (very) well protected and the roof sequence can be french freed easily. The last pitch is not as runout as it used to be but is very badly bolted. Not for limit leader. Linked P1+2 and P3+4. Most of the anchors are hanging or semi-hanging.
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| Tue 6th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Buzz Rock | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Babylon Sister
- with
Lea
| 24m, 7 | ||||
| 5.8 |
★ Graphite and Glitter
- with
Lea
| 21m, 6 | ||||
| 5.9 |
★ Dig Hay Zoose P1
- with
Lea
1
5.9
| 50m, 6 | ||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Five Pitch Harmony
- with
Lea
1
lead by
Lea
2
lead by
Lea
3
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
4
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
5
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
| 140m, 12 | ||||
|
Linked P1+2, P3+4 and had plenty of rope left to link P5. 70m rope
|
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| Sun 4th Feb 2024 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
| Canon de los Lobos Los Lobos Main Wall | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★ Palm Snake
- with
Lea
| 12 | ||||
|
P1 is a little softer (5.8?) but has some loose rocks in the second half. Linked P2+3 with a 70m. What a mega pitch! P3 is a little easier grade/move wise, but the first few moves are not on positive holds. I even got a bonus pitch in! (read: stuck ropes...)
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| 5.9 |
★★ Zombie Wolf
- with
Lea
| 43m, 12 | ||||
|
Worth climbing in a single long pitch to enjoy the route fully. Make sure to either extend/skip starting bolts to avoid rope drag, or, if crowding permits, climb the start of the climb to immediately to the right and traverse into the dihedral.
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| Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.8 |
Temps de Cure
- with
PAB, Léa
3
5.8
Finished straight up through the bush to avoid soaking wet rock.
4
5.7
A few loose rocks remaining. Great pitch. Long but not much rope drag. | 210m | ||||
| 5.7 G |
★★ Voie de Rappel
- with
PAB, Léa
1
lead by
Léa
2
lead by
PAB
Finished in the dihedral and large flake leading to "Temps de cure" second anchor. | 150m | ||||
| Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | ||||||
| 5.4 G |
★ La petite ecole
- with
Léa, Charle-Antoine
| 15m | ||||
| 5.5 |
Unknown easy route
- with
Léa, Charle-Antoine
| 15m | ||||
| Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Passerelle
- with
Léa
1
5.6
A little runout. I did a long pitch (70m) hoping to reach the tree anchor of P2. Didn't make it so I build a gear belay on an uncomfortable stance.
2
5.7
3
5.3
4
5.6
Tried going up the 5.7r but found it too committing while wet. Downclimbed and a few shenanigans later, found myself pulling a nice 5.7 roof crack move and then linking into the last pitch of "Soutien gorge" to avoid the (unfortunately) wet traverse and crack exit.
5
5.8
| 170m | ||||
| Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
| 5.12a G |
★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee
| 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
New highpoint: hands in the top crack, placed the .75 but didn't clip. Found new beta for that section as well as the exit sequence.
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| Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Le diedral
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 180m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Only climbed the first pitch while waiting for "wet dream" to clear up. Second half need a little cleanup. Great climb. The crux (5.7) protects very well.
|
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| 5.9 PG |
★★★ Wet Dreams
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
P3 can actually be pretty well protected but the gear is tricky to get in.
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| Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Lone star | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★ Rencontre au sommet
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 28m | ||||
| 5.5 |
★★ Trois fois rien
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 26m | ||||
| 5.4 |
★ Gourgandine
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 20m | ||||
| 5.3 |
★★ Mécanique non-autorisé
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 12m | ||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Mysophobie
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 12m, 6 | ||||
| 5.7 |
★ Gros orteil
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 12m, 5 | ||||
| 5.6 |
★ Esprit de famille
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 12m, 4 | ||||
| 5.5 |
★ La lili
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 12m, 5 | ||||
| Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
| Mur Cathédrale | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★★★ Flying Frida
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| |||||
|
Give me more of this please
|
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| 5.7 |
★★ Metal Cheetah strikes again
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| |||||
| Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
| Mur de l'Université | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★★ C'est beau, man!
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 8 | ||||
| Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Panorama - Bowman | ||||||
| Mur École | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Clair de lune
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 17m, 7 | ||||
| 5.7 |
★ Début d’un temps nouveau
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 17m, 7 | ||||
| 5.6 |
★ Je s’appellais Grout
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 17m, 8 | ||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Surprise sur prises
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 20m, 10 | ||||
| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.8 PG |
★★ Au bouleau mon homme
- with
Léa
| 25m | ||||
|
Thin moves getting to the bolt. Protected as high as I could in the crack with a black totem.
|
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| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- with
Léa, Thomas, Sophie
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Lots of people on the wall. We had two parties and decided to climb at the same time in parallel. Had a blast chatting while leading. It really goes pretty much anywhere on P2 and P3.
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| Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
| 5.12a/b |
Jambe droite
| |||||
| 5.10- |
★ Unknown
| ★ Good | ||||
| Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★ Le Paradoxe des formes
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.10b PG |
Eclipse
| 28m | ||||
|
We ended up climbing it in two pitches, building a gear anchor after the slab, before the crux. I fell once on the crux, came back down to the anchor and made it. Interesting one to protect if you have a short reach.
|
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| Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Cap Trinité | ||||||
| 5.12d |
★★★ Les Grand Galets
1
5.8
2
5.12d
3
5.10a
4
5.12a
5
5.11d
6
5.12c
7
5.12b
8
5.12a
| |||||
|
3 great days with great people. Big wall style. Hauled P1+P2 in one long haul. Camped at P3 anchor. Fixed P4+5+6 with a 100m static line. Single rope rappel for all raps is best. Double rope rappel isn't worth it. From the P2 anchor (after the pendulum) we made it down with a 75m rappel. 70m, would get you to a ledge that is easy to downclimb. Lead P3 free, P7+8 clean aid.
|
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| Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
- with
Kexin Huang
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
P1 of "Pinnochio" into the direct P2 of the "Directe de l'Ours".
|
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| Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | ||||||
| 5.6 |
Les jumelles
- with
Léa
| 70m | ||||
|
Climb in one pitch if you have a 70m. Watch out how you protect the end of the second pitch to not risk dislodging a death bloc
|
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| Mon 21st Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.12a/b |
Jambe droite
- with
Léa
| |||||
|
Gave it two tries from the ground. New highpoint: the jug before the last bolt.
|
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| 5.10- |
★ Unknown
- with
Léa
| ★ Good | ||||
|
This is probable the only moderate that is well bolted for someone climbing at that grade. Nice technical moves.
|
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| Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.10b |
Agoraphobie Direct
- with
Yasmina
| 20m | ||||
|
Took a fall in the opening moves. Came back down and sent it. There is a good runout in a tricky section up higher. I added an extended draw for the second leader.
|
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| 5.9 |
★ 5.95
- with
Yasmina
| |||||
| 5.12a/b |
Jambe droite
- with
Yasmina
| |||||
|
Start of the line was wet so we aided to the first overlap and worked the moves ground up to the chains. Well protected. A flake marked with an X might come out soon-ish but held my weight fine.
|
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| Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
- with
Martin
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
| Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- with
Martin
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Cap Trinité | ||||||
| 5.12d |
★★★ Les Grand Galets
- with
Léa, Jonathan Chardrand, Marina Lancon
| |||||
|
Everything was going well until our leader pulled a sizable rock from P2, breaking their hand in the process. The injured climber and another party member retreated. Two of us stayed to clean the pitch and bring the everything down.
|
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| Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
- with
Léa, Jonathan Chardrand, Marina Lancon
| 230m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Mon 3rd Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.10a G |
Jeu du gear
| 25m, 1 | ||||
| 5.8 PG |
★★ Au bouleau mon homme
| 25m | ||||
| 5.6 |
★★ Voie d'evitement P1
1
5.6
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
| 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
The climb was still wet when we started so I opted for the 5.6 variant right of the OW. Nice moves. On the way down, we TRed the direct second pitch (5.8)
|
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| Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.7 PG |
★★ Onglee
| 160m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Climbed the first 70m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up.
|
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| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Linked P1+P2 into a 71m pitch
|
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| 5.7 PG |
★★ Onglee
- with
Chantalle
| 160m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Only climbed the first 60m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up
|
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| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- with
Chantalle
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★ Le Paradoxe des formes
- with
Léa
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Super humid day made this climb's crux interesting. We were also swarmed with little black flies. They chased us off the cliff after this climb.
|
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| Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★★ Campanule
- with
Cedrick, Simon
1
5.8
2
5.9
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.5
| 200m | ||||
| Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
1
5.5
45m
2
5.7
60m
3
5.6
35m
| 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Swung leads with a new partner
|
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| Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★ 5.95
| |||||
| 5.11c |
Fruit d'homme
| |||||
|
Fell on the move to gain the arete (missed a hold).
|
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| 5.11b |
La Poule
| |||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
| 5.12a/b |
Jambe droite
| |||||
|
Worked the first crux (overhang), then retreated two bolts from the top.
|
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| Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Astro
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
LRS in 3 pitches with GG2 + duck backup and MT cache loop. A few practice falls at the start. Fixed a line and rappels on the left to look for new lines. Then went back up through 4th class terrain and rappelled the normal line.
|
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| Tue 30th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.8 |
Fantaisie Spatiale
- with
Paul
| 100m | ||||
|
Paul lead P1, then I linked with P2 of "Blues de la brosse à dents"
|
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| 5.8 |
★★ Astro
- with
Paul
1
5.8
30m
2
5.7
55m
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Swung leads with Paul who got all the good pitches (1 and 3).
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| Mon 29th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
- with
Léa
1
5.6
2
5.5
3
5.4
4
5.4
5
5.4
6
5.4
7
5.6
8
5.5
9
5.5
10
5.4
| 210m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Never gets old! swung leads with Léa who went direct through the headwall!
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| Mon 29th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.10- |
Das ist mir wurst
- with
Léa
1
5.10-
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.6
| 250m | ||||
|
Definitely more sustained than Hals-und. The first pitch is not the main attraction and definitely guards the entry to the climb. The rest of the climb offers great, varied sections with good belays. Retreat is possible with double ropes until the P4 bolted anchor. Has been mostly cleaned until halfway through P5. Small gear on P1, standard double rack with a single #4. Never placed the #3. I linked P3 and P4 but good rope drag management is required.
|
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| Thu 18th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.7 |
Sinus
- with
Pier-Alexandre, Kexin Huang
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.7
4
5
5.7
6
5.7
| 200m | ||||
|
Route is severely under apreciated. Once the start is located, The rest of the routefinding is relatively easy (for the area). We climbed it in 5 fifth-class pitches and one 4th class (6 total). The first half of the climb is very clean. The second half could use a small amount of love but is still clean relative to local standards.
The climb was perfectly dry up to the ramp with two or three soaked moves. Our last pitch (exiting the ramp) was soaking wet (dry lesser quality options seemed available). The grade is consistent with local old school grades. |
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| Sat 13th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Astro
- with
Léa
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Went to support Léa in leading the climb (she had previously sent it on pre-placed gear). On top of the usual wind, we were greeted with a light (but violent) snowstorm. 2-3 small falls and a few tears later, she made it and I cleaned!
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| Sun 7th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.10b |
Agoraphobie Direct
| 20m | ||||
|
Fun sequence down low, well protected. Not as sandbagged as other 5.10 in the area
|
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| Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Quebec City | ||||||
| Champlain | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★ Chemine 2
| 9m | ||||
| 5.8 |
★ Miroir
| 9m | ||||
| 5.7 |
★ Chemine 3
| 9m | ||||
| 5.11c |
★★ Plaisir d'amour
| |||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Le tombeau
| 11m | ||||
| 5.11c |
★★ Evolution direct
| |||||
|
TR solo aid training. No cams.
|
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| Thu 13th Apr 2023 - Shawangunks | ||||||
| The Trapps The Uberfall | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★★ Maria
| 77m | ||||
|
Fun varied climbing. People who found the traverse hard to climb and protect went too high. Traverse right after the frog bulge. Trad anchor at the bottom of the dihedral. Last pitch can be linked but I decided not to do so for rope drag and encouraging the second.
|
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| 5.8 |
★★★ Son Of Easy O
| 49m | ||||
|
technical moves down low that protect with small gear. The overhang is fun jug hauling but the protection is scarce so it's better to not spend too much time searching. One pitch with a 70m to the top.
|
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