Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mon 11th Mar 2024 - Portneuf | ||||||
| Lac Long La Plage | ||||||
| 5.8 |
Salopette
- with
Phil
| 30m, 3 | ||||
|
Was still wet and icy. We went up to clean a deathblock from above. Protects well.
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| Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.8 |
Temps de Cure
- with
PAB, Léa
3
5.8
Finished straight up through the bush to avoid soaking wet rock.
4
5.7
A few loose rocks remaining. Great pitch. Long but not much rope drag. | 210m | ||||
| 5.7 G |
★★ Voie de Rappel
- with
PAB, Léa
1
lead by
Léa
2
lead by
PAB
Finished in the dihedral and large flake leading to "Temps de cure" second anchor. | 150m | ||||
| Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | ||||||
| 5.4 G |
★ La petite ecole
- with
Léa, Charle-Antoine
| 15m | ||||
| 5.5 |
Unknown easy route
- with
Léa, Charle-Antoine
| 15m | ||||
| Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tour de controle | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Passerelle
- with
Léa
1
5.6
A little runout. I did a long pitch (70m) hoping to reach the tree anchor of P2. Didn't make it so I build a gear belay on an uncomfortable stance.
2
5.7
3
5.3
4
5.6
Tried going up the 5.7r but found it too committing while wet. Downclimbed and a few shenanigans later, found myself pulling a nice 5.7 roof crack move and then linking into the last pitch of "Soutien gorge" to avoid the (unfortunately) wet traverse and crack exit.
5
5.8
| 170m | ||||
| Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
| 5.12a G |
★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee
| 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
New highpoint: hands in the top crack, placed the .75 but didn't clip. Found new beta for that section as well as the exit sequence.
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| Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Le diedral
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 180m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Only climbed the first pitch while waiting for "wet dream" to clear up. Second half need a little cleanup. Great climb. The crux (5.7) protects very well.
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| 5.9 PG |
★★★ Wet Dreams
- with
Lea, Chantalle
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
P3 can actually be pretty well protected but the gear is tricky to get in.
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| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.8 PG |
★★ Au bouleau mon homme
- with
Léa
| 25m | ||||
|
Thin moves getting to the bolt. Protected as high as I could in the crack with a black totem.
|
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| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- with
Léa, Thomas, Sophie
1
2
3
4
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Lots of people on the wall. We had two parties and decided to climb at the same time in parallel. Had a blast chatting while leading. It really goes pretty much anywhere on P2 and P3.
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| Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
| 5.12a/b |
Jambe droite
| |||||
| 5.10- |
★ Unknown
| ★ Good | ||||
| Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★ Le Paradoxe des formes
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
| 5.10b PG |
Eclipse
| 28m | ||||
|
We ended up climbing it in two pitches, building a gear anchor after the slab, before the crux. I fell once on the crux, came back down to the anchor and made it. Interesting one to protect if you have a short reach.
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| Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
- with
Kexin Huang
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
P1 of "Pinnochio" into the direct P2 of the "Directe de l'Ours".
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| Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Les Dalles | ||||||
| 5.6 |
Les jumelles
- with
Léa
| 70m | ||||
|
Climb in one pitch if you have a 70m. Watch out how you protect the end of the second pitch to not risk dislodging a death bloc
|
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| Mon 21st Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.12a/b |
Jambe droite
- with
Léa
| |||||
|
Gave it two tries from the ground. New highpoint: the jug before the last bolt.
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| 5.10- |
★ Unknown
- with
Léa
| ★ Good | ||||
|
This is probable the only moderate that is well bolted for someone climbing at that grade. Nice technical moves.
|
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| Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.10b |
Agoraphobie Direct
- with
Yasmina
| 20m | ||||
|
Took a fall in the opening moves. Came back down and sent it. There is a good runout in a tricky section up higher. I added an extended draw for the second leader.
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| 5.9 |
★ 5.95
- with
Yasmina
| |||||
| 5.12a/b |
Jambe droite
- with
Yasmina
| |||||
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Start of the line was wet so we aided to the first overlap and worked the moves ground up to the chains. Well protected. A flake marked with an X might come out soon-ish but held my weight fine.
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| Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
- with
Martin
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
| Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- with
Martin
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
- with
Léa, Jonathan Chardrand, Marina Lancon
| 230m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Mon 3rd Jul 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.10a G |
Jeu du gear
| 25m, 1 | ||||
| 5.8 PG |
★★ Au bouleau mon homme
| 25m | ||||
| 5.6 |
★★ Voie d'evitement P1
1
5.6
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
| 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
The climb was still wet when we started so I opted for the 5.6 variant right of the OW. Nice moves. On the way down, we TRed the direct second pitch (5.8)
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| Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.7 PG |
★★ Onglee
| 160m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Climbed the first 70m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up.
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| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Linked P1+P2 into a 71m pitch
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| 5.7 PG |
★★ Onglee
- with
Chantalle
| 160m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Only climbed the first 60m while waiting for "Granuleuse" to clear up
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| 5.6 G |
★★★ La Granuleuse
- with
Chantalle
| 170m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★ Le Paradoxe des formes
- with
Léa
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Super humid day made this climb's crux interesting. We were also swarmed with little black flies. They chased us off the cliff after this climb.
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| Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.10b |
★★ Campanule
- with
Cedrick, Simon
1
5.8
2
5.9
3
5.10b
4
5.8
5
5.5
| 200m | ||||
| Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
1
5.5
45m
2
5.7
60m
3
5.6
35m
| 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Swung leads with a new partner
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| Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★ 5.95
| |||||
| 5.11c |
Fruit d'homme
| |||||
|
Fell on the move to gain the arete (missed a hold).
|
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| 5.11b |
La Poule
| |||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
| 5.12a/b |
Jambe droite
| |||||
|
Worked the first crux (overhang), then retreated two bolts from the top.
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| Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Astro
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
LRS in 3 pitches with GG2 + duck backup and MT cache loop. A few practice falls at the start. Fixed a line and rappels on the left to look for new lines. Then went back up through 4th class terrain and rappelled the normal line.
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| Tue 30th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.8 |
Fantaisie Spatiale
- with
Paul
| 100m | ||||
|
Paul lead P1, then I linked with P2 of "Blues de la brosse à dents"
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| 5.8 |
★★ Astro
- with
Paul
1
5.8
30m
2
5.7
55m
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Swung leads with Paul who got all the good pitches (1 and 3).
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| Mon 29th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
- with
Léa
1
5.6
2
5.5
3
5.4
4
5.4
5
5.4
6
5.4
7
5.6
8
5.5
9
5.5
10
5.4
| 210m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Never gets old! swung leads with Léa who went direct through the headwall!
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| Mon 29th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.10- |
Das ist mir wurst
- with
Léa
1
5.10-
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.6
| 250m | ||||
|
Definitely more sustained than Hals-und. The first pitch is not the main attraction and definitely guards the entry to the climb. The rest of the climb offers great, varied sections with good belays. Retreat is possible with double ropes until the P4 bolted anchor. Has been mostly cleaned until halfway through P5. Small gear on P1, standard double rack with a single #4. Never placed the #3. I linked P3 and P4 but good rope drag management is required.
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| Thu 18th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.7 |
Sinus
- with
Pier-Alexandre, Kexin Huang
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.7
4
5
5.7
6
5.7
| 200m | ||||
|
Route is severely under apreciated. Once the start is located, The rest of the routefinding is relatively easy (for the area). We climbed it in 5 fifth-class pitches and one 4th class (6 total). The first half of the climb is very clean. The second half could use a small amount of love but is still clean relative to local standards.
The climb was perfectly dry up to the ramp with two or three soaked moves. Our last pitch (exiting the ramp) was soaking wet (dry lesser quality options seemed available). The grade is consistent with local old school grades. |
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| Sat 13th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Astro
- with
Léa
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Went to support Léa in leading the climb (she had previously sent it on pre-placed gear). On top of the usual wind, we were greeted with a light (but violent) snowstorm. 2-3 small falls and a few tears later, she made it and I cleaned!
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| Sun 7th May 2023 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.10b |
Agoraphobie Direct
| 20m | ||||
|
Fun sequence down low, well protected. Not as sandbagged as other 5.10 in the area
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| Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Quebec City | ||||||
| Champlain | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★ Chemine 2
| 9m | ||||
| 5.8 |
★ Miroir
| 9m | ||||
| 5.7 |
★ Chemine 3
| 9m | ||||
| 5.11c |
★★ Plaisir d'amour
| |||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Le tombeau
| 11m | ||||
| 5.11c |
★★ Evolution direct
| |||||
|
TR solo aid training. No cams.
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| Wed 9th Nov 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Astro
2
5.7
55m
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Léa tried to lead it but adverse conditions brought her back to the ground at the crux. I lead it, then she pink-pointed it on my gear. I then followed it to clean. Only the first pitch.
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| Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
1
5.6
210m
2
3
4
5
6
7
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
8
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
9
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
10
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
| 210m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fun lap with Léa. She lead 2 pitches to the headwall. Then I lead one bloc to the top.
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| Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Portneuf | ||||||
| Gros Bonnet Principal | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Grimpe dans le piton
1
5.7
139m
2
5.9
3
5.9
4
5
| 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Late start. Had fun making it to the top of P3 as two parties of 2. I lead the second party, coaching the first second on the way up. On P3, we climb a few moves of purgatory.
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| Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Tache blanche | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Voie d'evitement
- with
Léa
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme Wet Dreams | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
| 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Best route I've climbed on 'le Dôme' so far. First pitch is a stellar 5 star climb in itself. Good rack management is required for this long pitch which offers constant exposure and difficulty. The remainder of the climb offers great climbing interrupted by a short "not so great" section. P2 and P3 can be linked but careful rope drag management is required, as well as being very comfortable at the grade.
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| Wed 7th Sep 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Palissades de Charlevoix Les Grandes Dalles | ||||||
| 5.7 5.7 R |
★★★ Granuleuse
| 350m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Simul in one pitch with a few 4-5m belays for cruxes. This climb is great. Much much better than the 'sport 400'. 1h55min ground to top. 51min rappel.
Gear spoiler: we brought single from #0 to #3, doubles from 0.4 to #2, triples from 0.5 to #1 with a full set of stoppers and tricams (2 black, two pink and one red). A standard double rack would be fine if climbing normally. I did place the 0.1 and 0.2 in the first pitch. Stoppers would probably work provided some gardening. #4 or #5 might be usefull if planning on doing the p5 dirty off-width variant. |
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|
Voie normale
| 400m | |||||
|
We started way off route on a friction slab with few protections. PA lead a ~200m simul-block to a tree belay. Not recommended. The pitch had few protections with friction and balance moves up to 5.9 over ~10m runouts. We then proceeded to climb 3 70m pitches to the top, swapping leads. We believe to have been back on route for those pitches. 1h51min for the simul-block, and 1h52min for the remaining three pitches. ~1h for the rappel.
Total time car to car for the three climbs: ~12h30min |
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| 5.7 |
★★ Sport 400
| 400m | Average | |||
|
Simul in one pitch. PA onsight-lead the block. 24 draws (30 would be better). 46 mins ground to top. 47 mins for the rappels. Rappel beta: with double 70m 8.4mm ropes, we did a 35m single rope rappel, then 4 full lenght simul-rappels to the ground. Note that the second rappel (first full lenght) we did bypassed the anchor shared with the climb and rope stretch got us exactly to the next anchor. Make sure you understand what that implies if you attempt this method.
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| Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.8
4
5.7
| |||||
|
Followed Léa with a new climber up this. She stopped at the end of P1 (already a lot of drag) and then climbed P2-P3-P4 in one long 72m pitch. Rapelling P2 with a single 70m rope got us to the slung tree without having to unrope.
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| Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme épaule gauche | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★★ L'initiation
| 210m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Quick lap with PA. 57m08s car to car.
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| Wed 31st Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.11c |
★★★ Stimulateur Cardiaque P1
1
5.11c
35m
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
PA lead the opening to the roof (free) then aided to the fixed anchor. I followed on the fixed line with jumar, practicing aid techniques. We hauled some weight up, replaced the cordelette on the three fixed nuts with quick links and chains. Rapelled to the ground.
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| Mon 29th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont du Gros Bras | ||||||
| 5.11c |
★★★ Stimulateur Cardiaque (Stimulateur Cardiaque P1)
1
5.11c
30m
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Started climbing the face climb when it started pouring rain. Made my way to the roof (free) and continued aiding my way up to an abandoned #2. It was getting quite dark at this point so we retreated at this point.
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| Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Palissades de Charlevoix Serpentin | ||||||
| 5.9 |
Serpentin
| 90m | ||||
|
Very nice climb. Should get more traffic. The poison ivy at the base had us bushwhack the ramp left of the climb until we met with the first bolt. Raph linked the two first pitches using a few long draws to manage drag. He built a tree anchor at the beginning of the "Garden" to avoid horrendous drag. I did a 5m short-rope pitch to move the anchor over to the bolts. Then I linked the last two pitches into an enjoyable 40m pitch. We rappelled into "Microgravité" for an extra pitch.
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| 5.10a |
★★ Microgravité
| 35m, 17 | ||||
|
Bonus pitch! Great climb. Good movement. Many many bolts with mostly secure climbing.
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| Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Palissades de Charlevoix L’Arête | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ L'Arrête
1
5.6
2
5.7
3
5.8
4
5.7
| |||||
|
With Raph, he lead the first two pitches as a bloc and I led the last two. He had a lot of drag and a terrible belay stance. We had double ropes and rappelled pitches 2-3-4 in a single rope stretcher to the anchor of P1. We then walked (unroped) to the slung tree and then a single rappel through the trees back to the ground.
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| Sat 20th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★ 5.95
| |||||
|
Slipped (wet rock) coming out of the crux,
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| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
|
French freed the crux. Holds were slipery under the rain. The rest was mostly dry or damp so still climbable
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| Tue 16th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
| 5.12a 5.12a G |
★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee
| 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Second try. Linked the moves from the ground to the end of the chimney, found a new beta for the link between the chimney and the finger crack and then made my way up the finger crack with a few falls.
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| Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont Eudore-Fortin Secteur de Droite | ||||||
| 5.8 |
Dora l'exploratrice
| 250m | ||||
|
Climbed in 5 pitches. Lead all of them. Climbed what is more likely the start of '40 prinptemps' and bypassed a section of the dihedral by climbing clear rock on the right back into the dihedral for the last two pitches. Some loose rocks but not more than should be expected in such adventure terrain. The bushwack took longer than expected, never found the flagged route between 'Les Dalles' and 'Secteur de Droite'. Headlamps were usefull on the way back as well as orientation and terrain navigation skills. Do not under estimate.
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| Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
| 5.12a 5.12a G |
★★★ Le baiser de l'homme araignee
| 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
First try. One slip two meters into the chinmey. Then linked the chimney but spent way too much energy. Fell repetitively trying to get out of the chimney into the finger crack. Didn't have much energy/time left so I aided the finger crack to the top glue ins. Very nice creative climbing with great protections. Placed two #4, first one was before getting into the chimney and could be substituted for a #2, second was at the end of the chimney and was pretty useful.
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| 5.9 5.9 PG |
★★ La vache folle
| 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Better than the description in rakkup gives it. Placed a #5 because I had it but it's not necessary. Nuts #3/#4 were very useful to protect the crux
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| Tue 2nd Aug 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres le Dôme King Can / Les Toits | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★ Le Paradoxe des formes
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Affordable 10+ climb. Multiple crux sections with good rests in between. Well protected. Anchor is on a good (08-2022) bolt and a completely rottent 1/4 inch bolt
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| 5.7 5.7 G |
★★ Derobade
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Very nice climb with varied styles yet not hard. Start as an OW/chimney style in the diheedral into a nice OW section to finish on a finger crack. #6 could be used if you dont trust old pitons. Alternatively, you can cross right around the pillar to avoid the last bit of the OW section. #5 tipped out. Otherwise, .3-#3 single rack was fine.
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| Tue 26th Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.10 |
★ Unknwon left side
| 10m, 5 | ||||
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Finished on the left chains then traversed back to the real finish.
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| 5.9 |
Groundhog day
| 10m, 2 | ||||
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Climbed with a set of nut, a few tricams and two bolts.
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| 5.9 5.10- |
★ Unknown
| ★ Good | ||||
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Probably a little easier now that it's cleaner. Good holds, great movement. Probably the best "first lead" of the area.
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| 5.12d 5.12d/13a |
★★★ Abominable
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
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Hard... Took about a dozen or so falls making my way up. Linked the first 3 bolts. Crux will be the start of the headwall for me. Great holds out right for the last two bolts.
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| 5.10c |
★★★ Le Slip
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
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Technical crux down low whent fine. MP topo said to go left after the third bolt but it should probably 4th now. Great movement wwith exposure seperated by good rests. Longest climb of the area!
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| Mon 11th Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Parc national des Grands-Jardins / ZEC des Martres Mont de l'ours | ||||||
| 5.6 |
L'Arete sud
| 150m | ||||
|
Simul in one pitch to the top to cap off a day of 10h, 19 guidebook pitches.
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| 5.7 |
★★★ Puf! Puf! Puf!
| 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Climbed in one 55m pitch.
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| 5.7 5.8 |
★★ Astro
| 85m | ||||
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Simul in one pitch. Very nice climbing. The starting dihedral and finish crack are the best feature of this climb.
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| 5.9 |
Aero
| 20m | ||||
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Would benefit from a little brushing but climbing still feel mostly solid. Bring small stoppers. Can also place a few cams under 0.75.
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| 5.10a |
★★ Pinocchio
2
5.8
| 140m | ||||
|
Only climbed P1 and P2. Climbed the left variant start through the overhang. Quite fun but harder (5.10?) leads to the left anchor.
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| 5.7 5.8 |
Fantaisie Spatiale
| 100m | ||||
|
Climbed in one simul pitch. finishing in Astro's second finish crack. Felt much easier than 5.9
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| 5.7 |
★★★ La Directe de l'ours
| 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Simul in one pitch through the 5.7 crack variant. Lots of drag at the end.
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| 5.8 |
★★ Le Blues de la brosse a dents
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Climbed the left and then the right variant. Both felt pretty much similar, the right variation being more fun.
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| Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Cap Blanc | ||||||
| 5.12a |
Propriété Privée
| |||||
|
Fell at the 3rd, 5th and 7th bolt. Nice movement with a good rest, once you can actually stand on it. Passing the roof isn't bad with a good finger lock.
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| 5.10b 5.10b/c |
Hanche Gauche
| |||||
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Fell at the 3rd bolt, holds aren't obvious but with the right beta, the move, although quite sportish, isn't that bad. The ending sequence is beautiful.
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| 5.9 |
★ 5.95
| |||||
|
The overhang sequence requires some strenght but is around 5.9+ with the right moves.
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| Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Charlevoix | ||||||
| Le Vieux Quai (Baie-Saint-Paul) | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★ Right Route
| 8m, 7 | ||||
| 5.8 |
★ Left Route
| 15m, 8 | ||||
| 5.8 |
Middle route
| 15m, 5 | ||||
|
Bad bolting in the lower section. The upper section is dirty with large loose boulder. Dangerous to climb. Bailed on a tree.
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| 5.6 |
★ Right Route
| 8m, 7 | ||||
| 5.7 |
Right Route (Direct)
| 8m | ||||