Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 2nd Jan 2012 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Enticer | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up for "Dreamcatcher", but fun climbing in it's own right.
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16 | ★★ Sun Chaser | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun climbing on a great piece of rock.
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Wed 30th Nov 2011 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Idiot Wind | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Such a nice climb. Good little crimps and pockets all over it. You can't miss the next hold, it is the bit of rock covered in chalk! Will be leading it next time.
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15 16 | ★ Tombstone Row | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Nice easy little climb.
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17 | ★ Bombadil | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Run of the Mill KP.
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Sun 20th Nov 2011 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
18 | ★★ Annabelistic | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty typical Brooyar, little overhung, lots of holds, really fun.
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18 | ★★ Pink Panzer | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprised this route has not had more ascents, great climbing, scary looking roof but big holds always within reach. Second you partner on that hanging belay, brilliant stuff.
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15 14 | ★ The Dog's Paw (Dogs Paw) | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Great way to get those sore arms back into another day of climbing.
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Sat 19th Nov 2011 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
17 | ★★ 2,4,5 T | 42m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climb of the Brooyar trip and what an introduction, overhung and two spots high up but holds everywhere! Awesome.
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Sat 19th Nov 2011 - Brooyar | ||||||
Point Pure | ||||||
16 | ★ Cold Fusion | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Guide says go right after 5th bolt... I went left, ending at the same spot as "Islamic Cowboys Say Jihad RHV"... damn it was hard. Just those last three bolts, way harder than 17, harder than most of the 19s and quite a few of the 20s that I've done. Took two big falls at the second last bolt with big cheers from the people watching at the lookout. Got over the top just in time to see the sun drop below the ridge. One of the most memorable and satisfying climbs I've ever done. Love Brooyar!
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Sat 19th Nov 2011 - Brooyar | ||||||
Eagle's Nest | ||||||
18 | ★ Prima Diva | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Fun first move, rest is boring, and very sandy.
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16 | ★★ It's A Long Way To Tip A Fairy | 45m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another great climb, the top overhangs look scary but the climb's bark is worse than it's bite, it's Brooyar and there are holds everywhere. Maybe a little run out but no need for natural pro as the description says.
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16 | ★★ The Pioneer | 40m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Done with Terry, this climb has a great variation in it's 40m; face climbing, Brooyar pockets then nicely overhung and exposed up top. Great fun.
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17 | ★ Little Ray Of Sunshine | 45m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I may have ticked this when I was actually on 245T???
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Wed 16th Nov 2011 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Tiger Stripe | 18m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Hard for the grade, feels a little run out as well. Doing it at night by head torch made it harder than it really is I suspect.
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Sat 5th Nov 2011 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
16 18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p5) | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Mmmm traversing Little bit more challenging than the previous pitch. Great fun. Make sure you have a 60m rope if your rapping this route with a single rope. Especially if you want to combine pitch 3 and 4 for the rap. Loved this entire route.
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15 18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p4) | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Really easy after the previous pitch, but great position and enjoyable climbing.
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18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p3) | 110m | ★ Good | |||
One section on this pitch is hard, easier ground to the right but becarefull of a fall here, you'll take un unpleasent swing into the wall. Stoked to have led this.
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17 18 | ★★ Troposphere (Troposphere p2) | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Starts to get a bit more dawnting to the end of this pitch, I combined it with P3.
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15 | ★★ Troposphere p1 | 110m | Average | |||
Seconded after Dan, just really an access pitch to the real climbing. Although the last few meters are more interesting.
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Sun 30th Oct 2011 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Crap | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not as crap as the name would have you believe. Big holds, plenty of feet. Second bolt is dificult to clip with style
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14 | ★ The Lemur's Femur (The Lemur's Femur (was: SI)) | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice and easy lead, consistent.
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13 | ★ The Hyena's Heinie (The Hyena's Heinie (was: MB)) | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Nice and easy warm up, think I did a harder variant at he start, left of the arret, still not much harder than the rest of the route.
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Sun 16th Oct 2011 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Standing Room Only | 18m, 5 | Average | |||
Hard moves to a high first bolt, rest of route pretty is easy, not a great warm up if you're looking for a chilled lead.
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Sun 9th Oct 2011 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Challenging enough to be fun, nice and consistent
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Sun 2nd Oct 2011 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Slow Cure | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Bit harder than I expected for the grade, that overhang especially. Have to admit that I skipped the overhang and used a bolt of 'Standing Room Only' at the overhang when I first lead it.
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Sun 2nd Oct 2011 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Euthanasia | 17m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some tough moves, gets easier from half way up.
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Sat 16th Oct 2010 - El Chorro | ||||||
Valle de Abdalajis El Tajo Fisuras y Diagonal | ||||||
4+ | Menos mal! | Average | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Fisuras armoniosas | 35m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
My last ad favourite climb of the whole El Chorro trip.
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Sat 16th Oct 2010 - El Chorro | ||||||
Encantadas Area Las Encantadas | ||||||
6b | ★ Variante (Para que disfrute la canalla) | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Damn this felt hard. Once I was over that blank section I thought it would ease up... not the case at all. Never been more pumped at the top of a climb!
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Fri 15th Oct 2010 - El Chorro | ||||||
Escaleras Escalera Arabe | ||||||
5 | ★ Las Cocas de Lucas | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Just done to stand on top of the pinnacle!
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Fri 15th Oct 2010 - El Chorro | ||||||
Frontales Frontales Medias Austria | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Valentines Day | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I led first and third pitches. Brilliant climb. Must do at El Chorro. With Knut and Joe. Crux looks scary but there are good holds and lots of bolts.
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Wed 13th Oct 2010 - El Chorro | ||||||
Desplomilandia Pozo de la Mona | ||||||
6b | Poda higuera | 16m | Average | |||
This route made me painfully aware of the effects of gravity.
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6a+ | ★ Fauna | 12m | Average | |||
6a | ★ Flora | 11m | Average | |||
6a | Buen amigo | 20m | Average | |||
6b | ★ Laguna betiko | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Another tough climb that just kept on going!
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Tue 12th Oct 2010 - El Chorro | ||||||
Frontales Frontales Medias Austria | ||||||
5+ 5c | ★★ Nitti | 40m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great short little double pitch climb, great way to ease into multi pitch at El Chorro. Led first pitch. Climbed with Joe.
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Mon 11th Oct 2010 - El Chorro | ||||||
Escaleras Escalera Arabe | ||||||
6b+ 6a+ | ★★ Engendro Caneri (Engendro caneki) | 31m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Really pumpy and sustained, try geting over that overhang with some style... I certianly could not
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Sun 10th Oct 2010 - El Chorro | ||||||
Escaleras Escalera Suiza + Navegador Pillar | ||||||
6a | ★ Mas que un Carreta | 16m | Don't Bother | |||
Unpleasent, just did not feel good, fell on second or third bolt. Maybe it was me, maybe it was hard for the grade.
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Sun 10th Oct 2010 - El Chorro | ||||||
Escaleras Escalera Arabe | ||||||
6a | ★★ Sergio y Antonio (Antonio y Sergio) | 22m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Another great El Chorro route.
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