Ascents by Rory Hentshel

A pretty cool climb, get on it while the holds and gear placements are clean. Easy enough to use the two carrots above hangover for the anchor.

What an adventure. Had to rest and pull on gear to get over the lip of the starting crack which I would grade as at least 20. Got the rest clean which I was pretty happy about. A #5 and #6 cam would have been good for the offwidth. As it was, I had a bit of a run out to the top of the offwidth above a #1 wallnut and blue microcam that I got in near the start of the offwidth...The finishing roof was pretty memorable too, cheered on by the crowd at the bottom.

Such as awesome line. Twice as high as the west face, good rock, and easy to protect if you have some big cams. A well placed rap line helps with the detractions of this climb being access and the top out.

Left the ground with 2 each of #3, #4, #5. While lowering, the rope bumped a #4 cam and it was totally stuck. Could only move one lobe a few mm and it was looking very grim. Placed a #3 just above it, clipped it to my harness and bounced on it while applying light force on stuck cam and it came free!

Like a warm hug.

Will come back with large cams for the lead ascent. Pulled a chunk of rock off on the 1st try.

Went 2nd try.

Was getting dark so skipped the sandy start

Fixed a 60m static to rap from the top anchors to P1 anchors, then used lead rope to rap ~10m to the ground. Had to rest on a cam about 1m above the P2 bolt, in sight of the anchors. Then broke a hold going slightly off route to fall on the same cam.

Rock failure induced fall.

Two attempts, took a few falls.

Nice climb. Stoked to get it as my 1st 22 onsight.

Such an awesome climb. Got it 1st go this time.

Warm up

Turned out to be a great day despite the forecast. 6h20m return from the top carpark. So glad to not have a back pack and the 1.5L of water each was enough for a mild day.

Used the rap rings 5m north of the top out carrots to fix a 60m static rope and rapped ~57m to a ledge then walked 10m north to the anchor bolts at the start of P2.

Less loose blocks than CSR which was nice. Approx 6.5hrs round trip from the hut, climbing as a party of 3. Didn't really see much looking diagonally right on P2 so just went up following the good gear.

So stoked to tick this climb after first seeing this line on a bushwalking trip almost 3 years ago. We decided to rack up at the hut and departed at 7:15 with 2x sets of wires, cams 0.3-3 with doubles 0.3-2, some hexes and 16 alpine draws. We lost the track a bit when crossing the side creek as we were too far from the confluence but were at the base by 8:15 and climbing as a party of 3 by 8:30. Pitches 1-3 were combined into two pitches with minimal gear placed putting us ahead of schedule. P4 was the one to remember, traversing out onto the face to gain all that exposure, putting in some gear and trying to follow the path of least resistance up was a highlight. Michael bravely look the lead at P6 after lugging the backpack up the 1st 5 pitches for a 2:30pm top out. Leisurely lunch on the summit with the skinks and chatted to a hiker on the return to the hut for a 10.5hr day total. The descent took longer than expected however it was not helped by me tossing 100m of rope off the 1st 10m down climb/rap into a big tangle in the bushes below. The radios were very useful and our 2L of water per person was adequate.

Lead all pitches bar the P2 bushwalk and linked pitch 4+5 for some mild rope drag. My 40m static was too short to rap from P3 belay to the ground.

Struggled to get over the starting roof and took a rest as the last bolt.

A Mt Keria highlight

A 40m static reaches from the rap anchor to the start of the climb.

Fun climb. Don't let the ferns put you off.

Enjoyable

Nice climb. Was glad to have a few cams to anchor the belayer at the bottom.

Not sure if I traversed at the correct height but the top flake was pretty nice.

Great climb

Two falls at the dyno

Helpful beta from Gavin.