Ascents climbed between 2023-00-00 and 2023-12-31 by Vanessa Wills having Trad CPR

Hadn’t really looked at guide. Great moves to a literal nails crux but I think I could do it, though I was doing a karate kick to the right after matching on the thin rail. Sticking the thin rail was the only move I didn’t do.

Got to half way mantle clean and almost got through it it, then easy to the crimp crux and faded on the top third again.

P2 and3 , got through the first half of P2 to the mantle, then faded towards end. P3 start is dire, then gnarly finger crack that will be tricky on lead

Well the start and end were good, suspect some rope assistance through the low crux and the upper one needed more work. Spent some time brushing someone else’s excessive chalk and tick marks- lest anyone think it was us, but it needs a good shower to clean it off. Will have to get fitter and return

Led pitches 1,3,5 all clean. P2 clean. The crux pitch, did all moves free but needed a few ( quite a few) rests. The God of death, that’s how you feel after doing the 45 m overhanging hand crack. Mega classic.

Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack

2 sits, better friction than last week. Worth it to get john Wilde back in the saddle

Rpt to clean. 2 snakes visible but neither impacting the route. Required a few rests, was hot in the sun.

A couple of rests remembering the sequence post footer breakage

Thanks to whomever put in the new anchors since I was last here. This I think is my favourite route in the gorge. Got here a bit late, and it was damn hot, so had a single go to reacquaint myself, with one slip on the lower part, then time to go packrafting the Gorge!

I had to divert back into holiday after falling off the thin finger crux to make upward progress then moved right again. The stalactite feature was amazing but vibrates.

Painful and not appealing

Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.

Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.

Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.

Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.

Reaching up into the roof at the crux was a huge move, no idea what Norwegian 6 is, felt like grade 20

Rpt. Really needs a bolt added, the cam placement can get quite sandy, hardest move of day at start

Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.

Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.

Personal top rope grade 19, probably feels worse on lead. We did the start but finished through roof to right

Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3

My left hand strayed towards the HS holds down low, as the right heel, lay off sloper to side pull felt more 25 for my height, and still tough up top. Not sure where the wires go, would be shallow placements in a flake I think- would be better with extra bolt and a second anchor bolt

Thought this was great, but confused by the topos. There is a shorter direct crack which we bypassed and went right along arch, so thinking it was this. Certainly felt quite challenging, great balance moves and some burly underclings. Could feel a bit sketchy placing gear on the traverse

My hand greased off one hold and unexpectedly slipped. Got back on and went through. The mantle up the top is seeming tougher than before.

Quick run up this morning before the weather changed.pitch 1, finally sussed the start, Pitch 2 amazing.P3 some pretty shallow placements.

Rpt

One slip in off fingers section

Rpt, enjoyable 3 d climbing, probably deserves anchors after all the trees burnt a few years back

I still can’t believe I led this 17 years ago. I must have been mad.

Rpt. Would need a bit of cleaning testing out the new anchors over burning spear.

Felt sketchy in the spooge

Harder for me due to large hand size than DC. Spent the mid section with a hand in a cam hook configuration. The chimney felt like a relief!

The pitch only. The hype is worth it, what a great crack. Nice size for girl hands, varied throughout, it just keeps going. Only downer was the increasing weight of the mega rack Dave used. Seems like it had been done yesterday, so maybe was cleaner than normal. Shame the top pitch isn’t clean, it actually looks like it would be good climbing. Comments from yesterdays ascent made me laugh. That may have been me before I learnt to hand jam…

Worthy of rebolt, the carrots and FH are pretty manky, but some good moves. In todays spooge and 100% humidity it felt super hard. Gave horizontals a good clean out first go.

No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs

Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.

Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.

Rpt

Unexpected foot slip on first attempt. Came down and then went up. Nice movement

Gnarly and no protection until half height

This is the route we intended to do but did only first two pitches. Should have headed left of second dihedral after this, but went up between dihedrals. Dave linked both pitches.

5.9 on MP and in guidebook that seems fair, hardest start of the day. Stellar route once above the slippery start

The most enjoyable route of the day

Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there

Fun trad climb. #5 handy.

Did the last 2 pitches in 3. Stopping at the notch seemed sensible. I led the last bit only which was not bad, but the crack below was good, though the chimney exit felt hard

A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb

Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them

Did this the evening we arrived, always good to suss out the descent route. Ended up “ scrambling” up too far and did first pitch of Varussen before getting onto route. 24 hour daylight is great.

First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day

Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock

Good sequences following Dave

What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.