Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 28th Apr 2015 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Short Sharp Loud | 8m, 5 | ||||
Got on this after Lewy tossed on the draws. 2 shots, and almost sent it. Pumpy with a V2 move (crux) in the middle and then some sloper action up high. Like a 22-23 at South Central .
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24 | ★★★ The Junkyard Dog | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3 laps because most of the crag was flowing water. Getting well into the extension now. Finally learning to rest upside down and control the heart rate.
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Sun 26th Apr 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Taxi Driver | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
First shot today, executed the crux statically. That move is way harder than Swinging in the Rain, and with a pumpier headwall before hand. I don't like raising grades, but that is the conclusion drawn by a few of today's ascensionists.
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25 | ★ Digitalicious | 20m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Got on this little ditty because the line up for Binary Neil was too deep. Loved the lower half, balance and pump. I did all the moves on the first go, but couldn't repeat the crux on the following redpoint...super reachy to get to the pocket, but it's easy peasy from there. Did get an inverted double kneebar rest in the choss scoop, so boss.
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Sun 19th Apr 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
21 | ★★ Thirty Three Years - with Lewyy | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
My god there is some desperate reaching through the crux. This cool down route was the biggest battle all day. Best slab route on the wall.
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25 | ★ Thunderstruck - with Lewyy | 45m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A great line, slightly tainted by some choss through the middle, but the location doesn't get much better. Second shot today.
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Sat 11th Apr 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Theory of Negativity - with Lewyy | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Warm up. Doesn't get much better at the grade.
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Sat 11th Apr 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Taxi Driver - with Lewyy | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
2 burns. Got it down to one sit, with repeatable beta. That crux is tough even from a sit.
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25 | ★★ Swinging In The Rain - with Lewyy | 20m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Went easily on the second shot. Well earned after a face full of semi-dry bird poo in the roof.
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Tue 7th Apr 2015 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Betty Blue Area | ||||||
17 | Kicking Dogs Balls | 8m | Average | |||
I feel bad for putting a newbie on this in the rain. Might be good as part of the 24.
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Mon 6th Apr 2015 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Pocketed Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Hide The Salami | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Received the sacred beta handed down through the ages. Very sustained, but also so very close to success for me.
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Sun 5th Apr 2015 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Pocketed Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Lick The Pig - with Lewyy | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Great with a bit of crack lowering the quality through the middle. It helps to have big muscle strength with strong fingers for the shallow pockets.
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Sat 4th Apr 2015 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek South Central | ||||||
22 | ★ Hunted Child - with Lewyy | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Worked my butt off for this. Just had to tweak my beta at the high crux, sendage.
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23 | ★ Strike - with Lewyy | 7m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Should have got this yesterday, stuck the crux throw then stuffed up the feet. Easy for a SC 23, just got to get back here soon.
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23 | ★★ Crime Is Art - with Lewyy | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did this back in 12/14.
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Fri 3rd Apr 2015 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline Iceman Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Dawes Solution | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Watching someone do the first move will not guarantee a send...v7 boulder to start.
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Fri 3rd Apr 2015 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline The Grotto Proper | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Amazon Queens Right Hand (flake) Variant - with Lewyy | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
24 | ★★★ How Much Can A Koala Bear? - with Lewyy | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tough nut and reachy. Did all the moves, but was too spent to give a second shot.
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19 | ★★ Alien Space Monsters - with Lewyy | 25m, 9 | Average | |||
So very overrated.
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20 | ★★ Spinning Blades of Steel - with Lewyy | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Up and down in one go. Jugs everywhere.
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Sat 28th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Blowhole | ||||||
24 | ★★ Blowtorch - with Lewyy | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First shot today, second overall, stoked. Bomber rock, and nice bouldering moves between great rests. Thanks for hanging the draws Luigi!
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Sat 28th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
19 | ★ Belayer's Root - with Lewyy | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Sharp and has that surprise choss vibe so prevalent on this part of the wall.
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21 | ★ Cock Blocker - with Lewyy | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Would be even better with a direct finish.
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Fri 27th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Nylon Happy - with Lewyy | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yeah, those moves were rad. Fell up high by mixing up my sequence. 2nd shot
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19 | ★★ Powerbra Rangers - with Lewyy | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
So many jugs to choose from, and then a great top sequence.
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Fri 27th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
20 19 | ★★ Flaming Flamingo pitch 1 - with Lewyy | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Love that first move off the deck.
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24 | ★★ Flaming Flamingo - with Lewyy | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1 lash, and the crux is not where I thought it would be. Sorted after a quick hang, this will definitely get sent next visit.
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Sat 21st Mar 2015 - The Woolwash | ||||||
The Junkyard Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Junkyard Dog Extension - with Lewyy | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I got mauled. Day 1 getting back on the steep stuff. Easy moves, there are just a helluva lot of em.
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21 | ★★ Negative Funk - with Lewyy | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Up and down early funk to warm up and sussing trad placements. Perfect conditions today.
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Sun 15th Mar 2015 - Forestville | ||||||
Sissy Crag | ||||||
V0 | ★ I'm Too Sexy By Far | 3m | Average | |||
Unreal holds on this side of the wall.
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V4 | ★★★ The Sexy Wall Traverse | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got all the moves, but didn't have the juice to link it.
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V4 V5 | ★ Gladheateher variant (Galdheateher var) | 3m | ★ Good | |||
An easy thug climb for sissy. Traversed into bill smith, and down climbed.
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V6 | ★★ Vitamin C | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Couldn't hold the finish jug.
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V2 | ★ Copo Cabana | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 | ★★ I'm Too Sexy For My Cat | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 | ★★ Hookuna Toetata | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The beginning moves are great. Unstylish finish to my send.
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Sat 14th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Pallets of Pies | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Should not have gotten on this in full sun and with the heat. Very average roof climbing. Couldn't be bothered to go again.
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Sat 14th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Hot Flyer | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic. Stuffed the high undercling crux on the onsite. Second go, no worries.
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22 | ★★ Lardy Lady's Lats (The Lardy Lady's Lats) | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great route. Harder slab to start and then an easier (than hot flyer) crux, but very techy (my fail). Second shot.
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Mon 9th Mar 2015 - Queanbeyan area | ||||||
Black Range bouldering Atlantis Mooney Sector | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Half Of A Yellow Sun | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second Shot, might be a bit squishy if you have good power.
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V7 | ★★ Simian Deficiency Low Start | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The sloper pinch was the bane of my existence in the heat. Very delicate and balance oriented, worth coming back to when it gets frosty.
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Mon 9th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ These People are Sandwiches | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell at the roof using silly footwork, then straight to the top. Second Shot ticked, and a great way to end the extended weekend.
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Mon 9th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab | ||||||
19 | ★ Country Special | 18m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ The Bandoline Grip | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
20 | ★ Nude Tuesday | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Placed a .75 cam above the ledge, just to say I have done every conceivable type of climb in the past week.
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18 17 | ★ Burning Jowls | 18m, 8 | ||||
Better than Bandoline Grip.
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Sun 8th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Off the Lip | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Done hanging the draws
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25 | ★★★ Rubber Lover | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The trigga nigga of the blueys. Power endurance shut me down for the crux. 5th day on in 6th.
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Sun 8th Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Original Hot Flyer | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Felt tough with well spaced bolts
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19 | ★★ Jack High | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Loved it, very thin.
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Sat 7th Mar 2015 - Evans Crown | ||||||
Deckout Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Johnny Dawes start for the win!
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17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The whole third bolt decking mandate is so 80s.
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19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Every crux here is getting up to the first bolt. Freaking runout after you pray the flake won't snap.
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Best climb of the day. Sequencey start.
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Fri 6th Mar 2015 - Queanbeyan area | ||||||
Black Range bouldering Hinterland | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Stumpy | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V3 | ★ A Fine Slap | 2m | Average | |||
Sharp
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V0 | ★ Little Arete | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Started far left for a longer warm up.
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Thu 5th Mar 2015 - Queanbeyan area | ||||||
Black Range bouldering Atlantis Mooney Sector | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Your Child should have a name | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Did the V5 start many times, but spooged off the high mantle twice. This is one to come back for, and the start unlocks a few traverse extensions.
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V5 | ★★ Crip Walk | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
EOTD, light was fading and my shoes kept sliding. Looks easy, but not really.
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V1 | ★ You'll never see him with high heels. | 3m | ||||
Do the opposite of what you think. This is the finish to crip walk, good to have it dialed in.
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V0 | Please don't snap | 2m | ||||
Just because it was there.
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V2 | ★ Dave's Warm Up | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Very short, but you gotta prep the fingers
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Sun 1st Mar 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Jaws | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up, better than I remember.
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23 | ★ Off the Lip | 15m, 7 | Average | |||
Tried for the euro onsight at the end of the day, but ironically slipped off at the lip. Incoming storms prevented a second shot.
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24 | ★★ Jaqueline Hyde | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Would be classic if the third bolt wasn't such a task to place the draw. Had a look at the extension... Two easy moves then (?).
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24 | ★★ The Tube | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Your choice of hand placement on the first move likely determines success. Wish it was ten meters longer. Jugs the whole way.
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Thu 26th Feb 2015 - The Cathedral | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
19 | ★★ Vitez (Vitez Direct finish) - with Heath Black | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed on Neil's gear. Very interesting movements throughout, with a few toughies at the high flake.
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24 | ★★ Prevenge - with Heath Black | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I am not good at slabbing, but you have to appreciate this climb. I didn't get very far, but the conditions were shit, and Neil worked out a good sequence for the future.
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20 | ★★ Retro Crack - with Heath Black | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The dog stays in his kennel, 2 attempts 1 hang. Improving technically, but still have to work on my hand jams...finger locks no problem, so weird. The crux is at the third bolt transitioning from jamming to laybacking.
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Sat 21st Feb 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
23 | ★ Truffle Shuffle - with Heath Black | 15m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Way easier when fresh, hanging the draws today. Enjoyable, but could be even better connecting this start to Rocky Road.
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24 | ★★ Rhubarb Crumble - with Heath Black | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I loved this climb, very much my style. Decided to work the crux with a unique sequence, but a crucial footer blew on my RP attempt. Doesn't matter, new sequence, such a gem.
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Sat 21st Feb 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Daffy | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I surrendered at the low crux to conserve energy for the remainder of the day...uber pumpy. Second shot was a great experience Could be a suitable warm up if you are familiar with the route.
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18 | ★ Gosling - with Heath Black | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
20 | ★ Duckling - with Heath Black | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Strange bolting
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Thu 19th Feb 2015 - Coalcliff | ||||||
Powerline Lookout | ||||||
24 | ★★ Trespass - with Heath Black | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
1 Shot after a 50 minute hike from Lawerence Hargrave Drive in hot, humid, and somewhat rainy conditions. I did eventually do all the moves, but this ain't my style. Super thin, technical, and sustained face climbing for 15m, then it's easier...but the rock gets sandy and you're still getting worked mentally. Probably a grade harder than what Monty is willing to pay.
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Sun 15th Feb 2015 - East Killara | ||||||
The Promised Land Top Tier King Davids Overhang | ||||||
V5 | ★ Out Of The Lions Jaw | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Second shot. A bit squishy at v5.
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V5 V6 | ★★ Giant Slayer | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Soft v5, maybe v4. Best starting moves of the lot. Link into out of the lions jaws, for a more solid number. Second shot.
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V4 V5 | ★★ Going Goliath | 4m | Average | |||
This wall is a dynamic chossfest, crumbling like a pastry. Head down the hill for better rock quality.
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V3 | ★ James The Son Of Alphaeus | 5m | Don't Bother | |||
Warm up
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Sun 15th Feb 2015 - East Killara | ||||||
The Promised Land Middle Tier Genesis Right Wing Christianity | ||||||
V1 | ★ Cleanliness Is Next To Godliness | 4m | Don't Bother | |||
Thong ascent
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V5 | ★★ Can I Get A Witness | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably my favorite problem of the day. Taped up the index and middle fingers on my left hand, then sent.
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V5 | ★★ Deep In The Belly Of The Whale | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Throwing to a sloper ain't happening in 30 degrees with high humidity.
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V4 | ★★ Thy Mighty Right Hand | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 14th Feb 2015 - Mt Gibraltar | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
22 20 | ★ the Italian Route | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The crux sequence is as hard as the 22 next door, but not as good, and with heaps of chossy flakes.
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22 | ★★ The Anty Climb | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb and a super route to learn good footwork.
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20 | ★★ Slow Twitch | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Old school, hilarious bolting past halfway... don't fall if you're approaching another bolt. Really interesting movements, a little groveling down low, but a great excursion overall. A brown snake slithered underneath my foot on the northern exit, but still coming back for the extension!
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20 | ★★ Big Bird | 65m | ★ Good | |||
Way over-rated, especially p3. Pitch 2 is super funky, combine it with pitch 1 (basic access). You can probably rap off the p2 anchors directly to the ground with a 60m rope, we had 67m. Led p1 and p3 clean, p2 second clean.
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Thu 12th Feb 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower) | ||||||
23 | ★ Truffle Shuffle - with Jason Lammers | 15m, 12 | Average | |||
Single burn at the end of the session. Wasn't crazy about the moves on this one. Bolted well.
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22 | ★ Rocky Road - with Jason Lammers | 15m | ★ Good | |||
The moves get better in quality above the tough start. Rock quality brings down the rating a bit... Might have flashed if a handhold stayed put, who knows.
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Thu 12th Feb 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag The Blowhole | ||||||
17 16 | ★ Blow Dry | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Harder than PHM. Cleaning duties.
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24 | ★★ Blowtorch - with Jason Lammers | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A bit disappointed in myself for not seeing the crux sequence on the headwall. The moves are difficult, but well within my ability. Shouldn't have left it to the 5th tie in, 1 shot before the cyclone arrived.
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21 | ★ Perkins Paste (Megan 2) - with Jason Lammers | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Best warm up, I kept trying to take a harder line than necessary. Good route for eliminates.
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20 | ★ Araldite (Megan 1) - with Jason Lammers | 20m | Average | |||
Fell at the 1st bolt like everyone else. Just start to the right, I imagine it would be more pleasant. Rad move at second bolt.
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19 | ★ Aquadhere - Extended (P H M 2 - Extended) - with Jason Lammers | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Nice warm up.
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Fri 6th Feb 2015 - Lucas Heights | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Reactorvate - with Heath Black | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A super route, and I wish it was longer. Hot tip, just keep punching after the sloper traverse. Just because other people are bringing in the comparison, Lean Beef is definitely harder, but not as technical.
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23 | ★★ Hills Have Eyes - with Heath Black | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tall man route. Neil was instructing me how to hand jam after tossing up some protection. My thumb muscle is a bit too beefy to get bomber jams that allow you to pull perpendicular to the break, and the reach upwards is just too far for my wingspan. It will be desperate if attempting again.
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18 19 | ★ Fission Trip (Project (closed)) - with Heath Black | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Best warm up option here.
|
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Mon 2nd Feb 2015 - Lucas Heights | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Reactorvate - with Heath Black | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great moves with a beautiful traverse, followed by a funky move to the high traverse back. I had to work the roof transition (2nd shot) to find a sequence that worked with my style. Should go next visit!
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18 | Fusions - with Heath Black | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
It's definitely the strangest climb here. Tough moves until the roof
|
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Sat 24th Jan 2015 - Bourbon Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Bulleit | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Conditions were South East Asian today. Blew off the top jugs after taking my sweet time through the hard bits.
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