Ascents by Graham Jones having Sport CPR

Lovely. Over too soon.

Absolutely fantastic. Loads of fun and some nice really exposed bits that will get your blood pumping. There is a fair amount on choss and rock that will break right off in your hand, mostly around the route periphery and at pitch ends, so be careful and don't put total faith in anything if you're not safely protected. With Mike Corkin. I led p1 and p3, Mike p2. All clean.

15/16 most all the way up, then 18 crux on the last move. Went left for the crux and Ali went right. Staightahead is a no go I think. Thought this was Country Special (as many do) but I checked with John Smoothy and Country Special is to the right and still on carrots.

Run out as hell but easy ground (15) all the way up. Then, like its buddy to the left, another tough crux that makes the grade. Fun but try 'Country Special' first and if you make it, skip this for something else.

Nicer than it looks.

Thin indeed. Two rests working this on top rope.

Repeat of this fun one (and was still thinking it was Country Special). Now I have to onsight Country Special for real....

Repeat with Albi

x2

Made more of a meal of it than necessary. More brain needed than brawn.

With the arête; without the crack.

Alzheimer's onsight. Easier if you stay out of the cave. Really fun.

Really fun juggy warm up.

In the rain. Led p2. Need 2 ropes for p3, which was the whole idea. Never mind. Next I'll read the guidebook before we pack.

Came back to lead it and caught a flapper at the start.

While we waited for everyone to get off Landmines. It beat sitting around getting eaten by mossies - just about.

Guide and ACA say the crack is out but don't preclude the arête. So I used the arête and not the crack. Not sure if that makes this Spook Eyes or Wanker? but we're getting a bit contrived anyway so it probably doesn't matter.

Led P1 only. Almost clean but rested (aka faffed about) too long just before the 4th bolt crux and had to rest on the rope to cure the elvis leg.

Topped to clean

First lead - first onsight! Nice.

Wished I'd led it now, but the rope was there.

Tricky crux start unless you are really tall. Plain sailing from there, though sustained.

Pumpy.

Only did P1 and it was crap. First hold broke off in my hand that set the scene for the pitch. Scrubby and chossy (and also not 13), P2 looks more interesting but it was getting late and the troops restless...

Freezing, windy and after 3 months off. Easy climb except for the crux move on the small sharp side crimp. Couldn't make it as a static move but it turned out to be an easy lunge.

Juggy fun but I was too pumped already. This was supposed to be my redpoint of this easy 18. Dog day afternoon it would seem.

A few awkward bits. Stuffed up the top mantle right by the bolts.

Top roping again coz we had no hangers. Couldn't find the jug after the mono so popped off and had to hang for a minute. Shame, otherwise pretty straightforward.

Just to clean it from Albi's first lead. Did it with the direct, totally-not-14, start though just for extra fun.

Had to top rope - Andy forgot the hangers. Stupid carrots.

Easy and fun

So nearly onsighted - fell off right at the top. Lots of swearing... Guide said 17; I agree.

Tougher than 16, mostly on the sustain. Crux got the better of me, mostly on confusion and indecision, and I had to have a little rest. Should have just ploughed though. Either left on the side pull jug or right on the delicate little stuff work - just have to keep moving.

Either I hate this route or it hates me. Got spanked even harder than last time by the evil start. 33 degrees with kamikaze mossies and the extra 5 kgs from Christmas probably didn't help much though. Regardless, this isn't 17; more like 19.