Ascents by John Pitcairn having Sport CPR

Draws on to crux after Amy had a go. Spent considerable time getting up, feeling around, getting down, repeat. In the end it was really only one or two tricky moves, and 4 people all found different beta. Mine kept the feet on and the body mostly upright. Quite fun.

Consistent all the way. A lot of lichen makes it hard to spot the feet and at times you are on lichen slopers. High priority for a clean. Topped out through some dead bushy stuff I didn't remember being there, couldn't find the anchor, then discovered a tree had died and fallen right onto it. Considerable swearing while balanced on more lichen. Got anchored then spent a while wrenching the tree off and sent it down. Rap cleaned. This will be bloody great after a good brush.

Draws on. Grubby but climbable, monkeying around on a juggy overhang. Fun enough but feels a bit gym, and short. Would probably be more pleasing if cleaner. And not 21.

Gotcha! Just a bit different after ManBearPig. Avoided drifting right to the tempting thin horizontal crack at the start, that just sets you up for a really tenuous wide move left. Stayed just a whisker left of the bolts the whole way from the start, on smaller holds, but smaller moves are required. Linked into P2, got all crossed up and made that harder than necessary. A happy ending to a good trip in excellent company.

Draws on. Started a smidge right of the bolts in the shallow scoop, crossed left at break and bulge with a little pocket beta from Jonno. Maybe that's not how it's supposed to go, but pretty soft for 21? 20 at most, maybe even hard 19.

7.30pm and finally starting to cool off a bit. No warmup just punch it and milk the rests. Got a bit too focused and accidentally skipped the crux bolt. Bloody great, and off the unsent list.

This is pretty cool, a long rising traverse with some thinking moments. Still a bit grubby and gritty, and some fragile holds. Didn't need quite that many bolts. When the dust settles it'll probably be 19 and 2 stars.

Seems I've never been on this. I'd remember. Bastard hard start, very thankful for the stick clipped first bolt. Missed the good holds over the bulge to arrive on the slab surprised I was still on. High left foot rock up and right palm down over the top lip, worked well. Vague sense of accomplishment.

The least sustained of the three 19s. Short crux above the detached block.

Not led it for a while now.

Warmup? Across to the Critters anchor for a 1.5 hour effort getting the big midway flake off that and raining big chunks down. Aidan got the draws off just before rain arrived.

Straightforward enough once you burn it into non-volatile memory.

Never been on this. First bolt felt high, then just keep it going on smalL but not tiny stuff. A little overhung, good body position will help.

Side pull flake still present.

I think it's 19.

On the soft side of 19, unless the left arete isn't in.

Draws on. Straight up to first bolt, nice right hand jams around midway, then head left.

Some sharpish holds, need to keep moving.

Neat off balance traverse in the middle, and it's not all over after that. Would benefit from a scrub.

Claiming onsight for the slab (previously onsighted the top on gear out of Lolly Scramble), with no use of the LH crack. Balancy, mono stack fingers and tiny feet. I rather like it.

Bloody good, highly recommended. Much cleaner than I was expecting too. An easy warmup cruise up most of Raw Umber lulls you into a false sense of security, then get your runout trousers on for the tricky arete crack (or take a couple of finger size cams). Then it's time for the main game, up the black-streaked corner. You can step across left to a good rest, but getting back right will be tricky if that's where you want to go. Spent a good long while figuring out how to keep moving up on the left and didn't want to leave the rest, but it's all there at the grade. Easier to the top, then best rap down is to the Raw Umber anchor.

Also bloody good. Started in a post-lunch coma but woke up pretty fast. Great slabby moves, fairly sustained at 20+ most of the way. Possibly 3 stars if it was cleaner, though it's clean enough if you trust the occasional lichen smear. Should have led it dammit, will be back for that.

About bloody time.

Bottom felt a bit dicky, but as usual it's the small pockets that are good. Eases toward the top. Too short to be worth a star.

Hard to believe I've never done this, it's great. The name is all the beta you need. Pitch 2 is a wee ripper, dancing up the overhanging wall on decent jugs.

Or this. Fun past 1st bolt in overhang, then keeps you working for a bit.

Can't reach the finger lock at the crux directly from the stance, but a thumb press out left and right foot on the wee feature allows shoulder rotation to do the job.

In theory just providing a P1 top rope, but had never done pitch 2, which turns out to be quite balancy with a couple of committing moves until it eases after bolt 3. Nice top out, a smidge higher than Captain Caveman. A hurried rap off and walk back to camp in low light and spots of rain.

Surprised myself a bit by sailing up it without much thought. Lead might be different.

Reasonably grunty crux, nice airy arete. Thought possibly hard 18 but seems everyone disagrees with me on that, maybe just having a good day.

First 22 onsight, maybe it's a little soft? Fun climbing, just enough features to keep it all together.

Draws on. Dodging showers. Probably went a little far left at the crux, but that's what squeeze routes get you.

A bit squeezed at the top.

First draw pre clipped but shouldn't have. Crux pretty static, no trouble.

Draws on. A valiant near miss on the onsight by Grant. Crux is through the first 2-3 bolts, then it's all over.

Draws on. Felt a bit awkward, maybe not the best warmup. One star at most.

Pleased to get this, spent a lot of time balanced on my toes working out the moves on the top slab. Similar in feel and difficulty to the top crux of Great Scott.

Alzheimers crux but hung on.

Wasn't going to but did. Just another afternoon at the gym.

First draw pre-clipped. Managed to not bugger it up somehow for a change.

Lap #40 apparently.

Good short fun, some kind of slappy nonsense at the top arete.

Made a hash of the pull onto the slab. Some kind of weird heel scum.

Rock getting a bit warm, but probably the smoothest I've ever managed. The small crux sidepull flake is flexing, somebody will get a surprise soon.

May have used a feature or two from Fuggin’ Jet Skis, but if those aren't in it's a bit bloody contrived. Frankly these are squeeze routes anyway, just one would have been better, and this also arguably retrobolts the trad line. Meh.

A bit of a back injury test - seems I can't put my shoes on without difficulty, but can still climb OK. Probably starting too far right, a couple of sits on the slab (which is starting to polish), then a long sling on the anchor and first-time fun up top.

3 is enough, post cold, tweaked back. Pretty spoogy at top.

Got a bit too focused and didn't clip the lower of the 2 crux bolts. Oops too late. Then nearly repeated that with the final bolt.