Ascents as sport by DOT

#notsoweak Second go today, with the top half being mostly wet. Onwards. Thanks Ash, Timtam and Nirmal for the belays and inspiration.

Last session was a sick dog... this one was a sick send. Super stoked this went down - I kept a clear mind through a headache. Back in March when we tried to top-rope this route I thought I'd never be able to climb it, much less lead it. The progress continues..

Fuck the beta-sprayers!

Great temps, great conditions, good preparation.. High gravity day? Torqued my finger in a slot down low on my best go leaving my nail bloodied.. but that's no excuse. Here begins my dog recordings. Hopefully there isn't shitloads of 'em.

**EDIT: Turns out I was fighting a virus. Should feel better next time.

Fucking hell.....

Time to get back on the boards.

First send for the season.

Fun, bouldery, lip traversing through the roof. Sent this in just a few goes. No clear crux, just fun monkey'ing.

First repeat for this season.

Dogged it, then sent next go.

First send for this season. Second shot.

My plan was to do another route as a warm up, then fire this first go. Things went according to plan. Onwards.

My first sport lead in a long time! Took me a few goes to fire up to it, but got there in the end. Even took some falls....

Excellent!!

Fuck this route is good!! Maybe next visit..

First repeat for 2018

This route is well worth doing: great position, great rock, great moves!

Totally onsightable route for me but just did too much climbing beforehand.. Next visit for sure.

Clean first go. Could do all the moves - haven't given myself enough credit for my technical ability. The route has some fantastic, absorbing moves. Breathing was fairly relaxed however some moves were could have been more controlled with better balance.

I'm soft, this should've been a redpoint!! Bouldery but very doable for me..

Hips pulled in and a focus on my foot-work made this lap almost effortless. Some wonderful moves. Very balancy but with good foot-work the small in-cut crimps and tip-pockets were sufficient. Very pleased with style.

Through the sea of beginner chalk I did rise.....

Excellent route!

Quite pumpy, couldn't get in the zone for the pinkpoint.. It'll go next time for sure!

So rattled from ealier routes that I couldn't make this happen. Climbing felt easy but my head wasn't in it at all.

Got pumped. Good fun.

Aaaaaaah! Fell from the last move! What a route!!

Blew the onsite.... Every bit as good as the hype suggests!

Excellent climbing.

My tips were very sore due to the cold. Couldn't focus properly on the climbing at hand. Forgot to enjoy the route and stay in the moment.

Relaxed, efficient climbing. Very pleased with style.

Quite a bouldery & commiting crux.

Second go. First go my fingers were ice. I enjoyed this. Thought it climbs quite well. Good Spurt warmup for me.

2nd shot. Retro-onsight attempt for warm-up went poorly - found the route pretty pumpy and hard to read. Fun climbing once I knew I wasn't going to pump off and hit a ledge.

This is way under-rated!

If you're sick of waiting for your burn on Gotham City, put your draws on this. It's ace!

Draws were already on the climb. Lead 1st go.

Climbed in one pitch. Wasn't there today.

I'm embarrassed! I'm so unfit at the moment!

As much as I reckon I can warm-up on Grade 22, onsight, my head says no.. Good route but!

Not sure what was going on here... or even if I was on this particular route... Seemed hard for 20, which is what I thought I was climbing.

Relaxed breathing. Hips pulled in. Flowing movements. No negative self-talk. Some balance and foot-placements could have been more precise.

The small tree at the start gets in the way a bit, hey?

Nirmal put the draws on. Stick-clipped the first.

Fun!

One move wonder.

Lacked focus and concentration. Fell just before second hanger, lowered to ground and climbed again clean. Balance/body position was very off! Used way too much energy!

Maintained breathing. Didn't act on negative self-talk. Observed that my hips could be pulled in closer to the rock - this moved my weight onto my feet more and conserved energy. Ascent was dogged due to cold fingers and falling just after first hanger. Didn't bother starting again cos I'd done the route previously.

Felt easy, even as an onsight. Good climb tho..

So scared of falling off and breaking myself I could barely commit. A proud moment for me in not giving up.

Weird fun! Easy climbing after the third runner.

The rock's not shit, so the route is better than some, and it climbs OK.. but it's not mind blowing.