Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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20 | ★ State of Shock | 25m, 3 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Tue 13th Dec 2005 | |||
Man, I'm stoked I could keep my head together for this one! More run-out than I'm used to. Did the left-hand variant start which was good.
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19 | ★★ Muesli Direct Finish - with Nat | 18m | Morialta | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jun 2017 | |||
So fucking confused about what's what on this route. Feel like the direct finish is what I lead and the obvious easier line trends slightly left, contiuing up crack feature..?
Anyway, this seemed harder than 16 and provided an exciting finish to the route. Quality gear and climbing, with a little spice when you're getting pumped.
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18 | ★★ Golden Fleece (The Golden Fleece) | 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Nov 2004 | |||
18 | ★★ The Stoat Steps Out - with Nat | 8m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jun 2018 | |||
A fun route with heaps of great gear.
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18 | ★ The Nose Macho Variant - with Luke Grindrod | 13m | Morialta | ★ Good | Thu 8th Nov 2018 | |||
17 | ★ Mt Olive | 17m | Morialta | ★ Good | Sat 20th Mar 2004 | |||
17 | ★ Scorpion Direct Start | 14m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Nov 2004 | |||
This is a bloody difficult 17!
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17 | ★★ Surface To Air | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Wed 17th Nov 2004 | |||
Found this very soft for the grade...
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17 | ★ Curved Air (Curved Air (Wall & Roof)) | 15m | Morialta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Oct 2004 | |||
First piece placed with a MAD heel-hook!
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15 16 | ★ Big Ears | 14m | Werribee Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Apr 2004 | |||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 25th Nov 2004 | |||
Sensational! ..and the gear is good enough. Fantastic route!
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16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack (The Watchtower Crack) | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 2nd Dec 2004 | |||
Fucken sensational!!
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16 16 R | ★★ Marmot's Mall | 12m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Sep 2004 | |||
16 | ★ Golgotha | 15m | Morialta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Aug 2004 | |||
16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ★ Good | Thu 8th Jul 2004 | |||
18 16 | ★ Split Images | 20m, 2 | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Nov 2005 | |||
Lead the 1st pitch, Chris lead 2nd. 1st pitch was really good!
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16 | ★ Busting for Relief | 12m, 1 | The You Yangs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Jun 2009 | |||
17 16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Fri 2nd Dec 2005 | |||
16 | Elsie | 7m | Mt Alexander | ★ Good | Sun 10th May 2009 | |||
16 | ★★ Plexas | 18m | Morialta | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Mar 2004 | |||
16 | ★ Kamikaze - with Nat | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Sep 2018 | |||
I think, without the complication of numb fingers and frozen stumps for feet, this route would've felt pretty cruisey.
Good gear, good fun.
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16 | ★ The Shaman - with JD | 12m | Morialta | ★★★ Classic | Wed 14th Nov 2018 | |||
In retrospect the gear was good and plentiful..
But I, good sir, was neither today.
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15 | ★ Marcus Schaevola | 25m | Werribee Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 14th May 2005 | |||
Pretty goey for me.. seeing as I can't jam for shit!
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14 15 | ★★ Toccata | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jul 2004 | |||
15 | ★★ Sundance | 140m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 29th Dec 2004 | |||
Worthwhile tick for the grade. Consistent and fun slabbing.
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15 | Sporran | 10m | Mt Alexander | ★ Good | Sun 3rd May 2009 | |||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Jul 2004 | |||
9 15 | ★ Odlid Baggins (Variant) | 25m | Summerday Valley | ★★ Very Good | 2002 | |||
15 | ★ Clea Direct Finish | 16m | Morialta | ★ Good | Sat 14th Aug 2004 | |||
15 | ★★★ Resignation | 96m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Sep 2003 | |||
16 15 | ★ Bozo | 12m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Jul 2004 | |||
15 | ★ Mickey Finn | 16m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Dec 2005 | |||
This route's a must do, I reckon!
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15 | ★ The Ghost of Melville | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Dec 2005 | |||
Fantastic jams! Loved this!!
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15 | ★★ Agent Orange | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Sep 2004 | |||
Fantastic climb! Variety and sustained.
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14 15 | ★ Deacons Dilemma - with Nat | 16m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sat 4th Nov 2017 | |||
Great climb, solid gear, exciting crux.
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14 | ★★ Mantle | 90m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Sep 2004 | |||
Found the 1st pitch more concerning than the crux due to run-outs on less than exciting gear..
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14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Jul 2004 | |||
14 | ★★ Mantis | 33m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Dec 2005 | |||
14 | ★★ C.S. Concerto | 50m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Tue 27th Jul 2004 | |||
14 | ★★ Loyalty | 18m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Jul 2004 | |||
15 14 | ★ Nero | 13m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Jan 2005 | |||
My intro to jamming... god, I loved this climb!!
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14 | ★ Sweet Surrender | 15m | Morialta | ★★ Very Good | Sun 31st Oct 2004 | |||
Almost no gear 'til the rooflet... but great climbing!
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14 | ★ Squeaker | 41m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Apr 2005 | |||
Great route, especially the second pitch!
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14 14 R | ★★ Hot Flap | 170m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | 2005 | |||
Great fun! Pioneered alternative fifth pitch (heading straight up to roof and traversing R) by accident - got belay ledge wrong. Great way to finish but the gear was pretty worthless where it was needed!!
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14 | ★ Hangman | 25m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Dec 2005 | |||
Really cool route with its bouldery crux.
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14 | ★★ D Minor | 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Sep 2003 | |||
14 | ★ Ben Hur | 18m | Werribee Gorge | Average | Sun 9th May 2004 | |||
14 | Hakea | 18m | Morialta | Crap | Mon 20th Dec 2004 | |||
Piece of shit!
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14 | ★★ Salamander | 120m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Jan 2005 | |||
I wasn't in the mood but it's still a great route..
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14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 24th Nov 2004 | |||
Lead pitches 2 & 3. I now see where it gets the three stars from..!
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14 | ★ Fido | 10m | Mt Alexander | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd May 2009 | |||
14 | Dead Punk In the Middle of the Road - with Nat | 12m | Summerday Valley | ★ Good | Sat 15th Apr 2017 | |||
Surprisingly good gear..
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13 14 | ★ When Kim Was a Girl's Name - with Nat | 12m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Nov 2017 | |||
This would be a classic route if it wasn't escapable off left. Gear looks a bit thin from the ground but it's all there and super-bomber! Consistent, fun climbing on lead.
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14 | ★ Minimus - with WogBoy | 12m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 11th Jun 2018 | |||
One bouldery move then easy to the top.
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13 | ★★★ Muldoon | 42m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | 2003 | |||
16 13 | ★★ Hell For Leather | 30m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 25th Apr 2005 | |||
Fun. Similar in consistency to Surface To Air.
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14 13 | ★ Cunrack | 16m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 6th Dec 2004 | |||
13 | ★ Andy Pandy | 19m, 1 | The You Yangs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Apr 2009 | |||
13 | ★★ Junglescope | 140m, 2 | The Cathedral Range | ★ Good | Tue 27th Jan 2004 | |||
13 | ★ Bedbug | 16m | Mt Alexander | ★ Good | Sun 17th May 2009 | |||
13 | ★ The Buttress | 20m, 1 | Morialta | ★ Good | 2002 | |||
13 | ★ Trooper Two - with WogBoy | 10m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Aug 2017 | |||
This is actually a great route. Can't believe I haven't been on it before..
Exciting climbing for a short route, with solid gear.
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13 | ★ Sexless Sue | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 10th Sep 2017 | |||
Fun, easy climbing with lots of good pro.
The crux "roof" is much easier than it looks. A bomber #3 Friend protects the excitment.
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13 | ★ Gettin' Hungry - with WogBoy | 25m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★ Good | Tue 20th Nov 2018 | |||
12 | ★ Ask Uncle Max | 24m, 2 | The You Yangs | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Sep 2006 | |||
Behaved quite nervously til about half height, then remembered to enjoy the climing. Good climb with a little exposure for added excitement!
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12 | ★ Plumb Jamb | 12m | Ben Cairn | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Mar 2007 | |||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | 2003 | |||
12 | Black Pudding | 6m | Mt Alexander | Average | Sun 3rd May 2009 | |||
12 | ★ Rover | 10m | Mt Alexander | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd May 2009 | |||
12 | ★ De Blanc | 20m | Summerday Valley | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Mar 2003 | |||
12 | ★ Cracker Barrel | 22m | Ben Cairn | ★ Good | Mon 13th Apr 2009 | |||
A bit mossy, but good footwork and not being focused on the frequency of gear will get you through. A fun climb!
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12 | ★ Balthazar | 13m | Morialta | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Mar 2004 | |||
A fantastic little climb!
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12 | Prudity | 18m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Sep 2017 | |||
A great route at the grade and probably not a gimme for someone just leading 12.
Up the chimney until you can climb right into a L facing corner, then follow this to an exciting conclusion. |
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12 | ★ Iago - with Nat | 45m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jun 2018 | |||
Climbed a variation of this, splitting off R through the steepness to belay L of rap anchors...
Nat lead our second pitch to the top.
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11 | ★★ Trapeze | 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | 2003 | |||
11 | ★★ Didgeridoo | 35m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Dec 2003 | |||
11 | ★ Big Sham | 14m | Morialta | ★ Good | 2001 | |||
11 | ★ Sweet Chariot | 16m | Werribee Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Apr 2004 | |||
11 | ★★ Dracula | 40m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 30th Dec 2004 | |||
11 | ★★ Waxman | 25m | Summerday Valley | ★★ Very Good | 2002 | |||
11 | ★ Clea - with WogBoy | 18m | Morialta | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jun 2017 | |||
Sandy as fuck. Great for putting beginners on on lead (if you don't like them). Gear gets interesting up high.
Make sure you kick heaps of gravel off onto your belayer as you top out.
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10 11 | ★ Armageddon - with Nat | 13m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Dec 2017 | |||
11 | ★ Sexy Love Slot - with JD | 8m | Mitcham Quarries | ★ Good | Thu 9th Aug 2018 | |||
10 | ★ Hard Drain | 26m | Summerday Valley | ★ Good | Sat 1st Mar 2003 | |||
10 | ★★★ Speigal's Overhang | 120m | The Cathedral Range | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Dec 2003 | |||
10 10 R | ★ Rasberry Ripple | 12m | Ben Cairn | ★ Good | Tue 13th Mar 2007 | |||
10 | ★★ The Shroud | 120m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Apr 2005 | |||
The whole climb is worth it just for the third pitch!
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10 | ★ Fig Leaf | 26m | The You Yangs | ★★ Very Good | Tue 12th Sep 2006 | |||
Great climb: good gear, mixed styles; including slabbing, jamming, and bridging.
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8 10 | The Minstrel | 20m | Arapiles | Don't Bother | Thu 30th Dec 2004 | |||
If you're looking for a good route at this grade, this climb ISN'T it! Absurdly inconsistent crux.
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10 | ★★ D Major | 50m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 26th Jul 2004 | |||
10 | ★★ Grey Arete | 32m | Camels Hump | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Dec 2005 | |||
This is a great route! Send your beginners up it!! The most bomber nut placements you will find!
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10 | ★ Toasting Fork - with WogBoy | 20m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★ Good | Tue 20th Nov 2018 | |||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack | 80m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 1st Sep 2003 | |||
10 9 | ★★ Beau Geste | 140m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Thu 1st Apr 2004 | |||
9 9 R | ★★★ Arachnus Variant (Minerva) | 110m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Apr 2004 | |||
9 | ★ Holdup Line | 20m | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 16th Aug 2004 | |||
9 | ★★★ Arachnus | 110m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Mar 2004 | |||
9 | ★ Casper - with Nat | 10m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ★ Good | Sat 17th Feb 2018 | |||
Deserves two stars..
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9 8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase | 100m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Dec 2004 | |||
8 | Lobbail - with WogBoy | Arapiles | ★ Good | Mon 11th Jun 2018 | ||||
Escapable almost everywhere, with enough good gear to entice your beginner leaders to dip their toes in. Fun climbing.
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