Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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V16 | |||||||||
V16 | Nayuta | Gifu / Toyama / Ishikawa | Tue 4th Apr 2017 | ||||||
V15 | FA Babel | Shiobara Boulder | Sun 13th Oct 2019 | ||||||
V16 | FA Nexus | Shiobara Boulder | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | ||||||
V16 | United | Mizugaki Yama | Thu 11th Jul 2019 | ||||||
V16 | Floatin | Mizugaki Yama | Sat 11th Dec 2021 | ||||||
V15/16 | |||||||||
8C V15/16 | Ochimizu | Gifu / Toyama / Ishikawa | Nov 2020 | ||||||
FA
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V15 | |||||||||
V15 | Horizon | Miyazaki | Tue 22nd Mar 2016 | ||||||
V15 | Asagi Madara | 12m | Mizugaki Yama | Wed 16th Mar 2016 | |||||
V15 | Asagi Madara | 12m | Mizugaki Yama | Wed 16th Mar 2016 | |||||
V15 | Hydrangea | Shiobara Boulder | Thu 14th Feb 2013 | ||||||
2nd ascent, tried last year, but was unable to complete it. This year it went down! 5 moves of powerful v12 climbing lead into the stand (Hydra) which is v13. The finish involves tenuous double toe hooks while compressing two flat crimps that lead into the final move to the jug... I fell here 4 times from the start. Thanks to Dai for establishing this test piece!
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V15 | Nehanna | Gifu / Toyama / Ishikawa | Sat 4th Jun 2016 | ||||||
FA
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V15 | FA Horizon | Miyazaki | Fri 8th May 2015 | ||||||
V15 | FA Eternal | Miyazaki | Wed 1st May 2013 | ||||||
V15 | FA Hydrangea | Shiobara Boulder | Sun 22nd May 2005 | ||||||
V15 | FA Byaku-dou | Horai | Tue 11th Nov 2003 | ||||||
V15 | FA Epitaph - エピタフ | Horai | Tue 20th Jan 2009 | ||||||
V15 | FA Hull Shea Nation - ハルシネーション | Horai | Wed 29th Mar 2017 | ||||||
V15 | FA Vanitas - ヴァニタス | Horai | Thu 6th Feb 2014 | ||||||
V15 | FA Idea - イデア | Horai | Mon 8th Feb 2010 | ||||||
8C | |||||||||
8C | FA arobayo | yakushima | Thu 25th Jan 2018 | ||||||
8C | FA ★★★ Gekirin - 逆鱗 | Ryutosen | Mon 1st Jan 2018 | ||||||
8C | ★★★ Gekirin - 逆鱗 | Ryutosen | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 11th Feb 2021 | |||||
V15 | |||||||||
V15 | Event Horizon | Miyazaki | Mar 2022 | ||||||
V15 | Loca | Shiobara Boulder | Wed 19th Oct 2022 | ||||||
V15 | Mugen | Miyazaki | Mar 2023 | ||||||
5.15b | |||||||||
5.15b | Soul Mate | Gozen Iwa | Sun 25th Mar 2018 | ||||||
8B+ | |||||||||
8B+ | Bacteria | Jammu & Kashmir | Thu 1st Oct 2015 | ||||||
4000m bis zum Rande des Nirgendwo
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V14 | |||||||||
V14 | Phenomena | Miyazaki | Fri 25th Dec 2015 | ||||||
V14 | FA Catharsis | Shiobara Boulder | Sat 1st Jan 2005 | ||||||
V14 | Gakido | Chigomaidai | Wed 2nd Nov 2022 | ||||||
V14 | Yokuto | Gifu / Toyama / Ishikawa | Sun 23rd Oct 2022 | ||||||
9a+ | |||||||||
9a+ | Tinipi | Mount Kinabalu | Tue 2nd Jun 2015 | ||||||
9a+ | Rise | Futagoyama | Tue 20th Nov 2018 | ||||||
5.15a | |||||||||
5.15a | Maturity | Gozen Iwa | Sat 23rd Dec 2017 | ||||||
5.15a | ★★ Sho- | Futagoyama | Thu 15th Nov 2018 | ||||||
9a+ | |||||||||
9a+ | Tinipi | Mount Kinabalu | Jun 2012 | ||||||
9a+ | The Clinic 诊所 - with 黄小龙 | 两头洞 U Cave | Mon 4th Dec 2023 | ||||||
5.14+ | |||||||||
5.14+ | Open project | 28m, 14 | 分宜洞村乡 | Sun 22nd May 2022 | |||||
5.14d/15a | |||||||||
9a 5.14d/15a | ★★ Flat mountain | 33m | Futagoyama | Sun 1st Mar 2015 | |||||
9a 5.14d/15a | ★★ Flat mountain | 33m | Futagoyama | 2016 | |||||
5.14d | |||||||||
5.14d | Sorachi | Chuugoku | Sun 2nd Dec 2012 | ||||||
5.14d | Spectator | Horai | Thu 13th Jun 2013 | ||||||
5.14d | 辣饺子 Spicy Dumpling (Spicy Dumpling) | 42m, 16 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Wed 14th Nov 2018 | |||||
Fickle boulder problem to an amazing endurance finish without good rest. Finding acceptable conditions is still the crux!
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V12 | |||||||||
V12 | 长亭外 | 宝石山 Precious Stone Hill | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||||
介绍一下线路和定级:
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8c+ | |||||||||
8c+ | ★★ Nix fuer Lutscher | 30m, 12 | Bukit Keteri, Perlis | Mon 23rd Sep 2019 | |||||
5.14c | |||||||||
5.14c | Metaforce Extension | Horai | Jun 2013 | ||||||
5.14c | ★★ Mare | 25m, 8 | Futagoyama | Thu 3rd Jan 2019 | |||||
8c+ | |||||||||
8c+ | Excalibur | Mount Kinabalu | 2012 | ||||||
5.14c | |||||||||
5.14c | Power power | 10m | Seonun-san | Apr 2021 | |||||
3rd go
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5.14c | 辣椒 (Lajiao) | 38m, 22 | 马山 MaShan | Sat 14th Dec 2019 | |||||
#FA Unique tension crux to some beautifully simple crimp moves up high. Such an awesome route! Left finish to Nahan.
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5.14c | ★★★ 红点饭 Red Point Dinner - with 飞狼 | 40m, 19 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Wed 15th Feb 2023 | |||||
红完中国攀后去摸了一把,最难单步接近完成,但其实可能还差很多。臂展长一点会有优势。
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8c+ | |||||||||
8c+ Easy | ★★★ Greed | 30m, 10 | Ton Sai | Mon 3rd Jan 2022 | |||||
First Thai Ascent... 😃
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5.14c | |||||||||
5.14c Hard | ★★★ 红点饭 Red Point Dinner | 40m, 19 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 11th Dec 2019 | ||||
Weeks of hard work. Definitely my hardest sent so far.
Long. Lower part 12c has a full rest on the tufa before entering another 25m of very sustain climbing on mostly very small and sharp holds. Crux is a dynamic move from smallest crimp possible and supper high left foot.
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V11/12 | |||||||||
V11/12 ~V12 | ★★★ project - with 超然 | 南高峰 Nan Gao Peak | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 9th Jan 2023 | |||||
动作丰富,攀爬了两个session,还差3个动作分掉,分掉的每个动作都很极限。难点小pinch很割手,一天最多尝试5把,对肩背,核心,脚法,指力,爆发力,都是极大的考验,应该是目前国内开发出来的最难线路之一,
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8A/A+ | |||||||||
8A/A+ | Superstitious Wildboy - with first ascent | Ton Sai | Tue 19th Feb 2013 | ||||||
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8A/A+ ~8A+ | Mental Hospital - with first ascent | Ton Sai | Tue 19th Feb 2013 | ||||||
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8A/A+ | Submission - with first ascent | Ton Sai | Fri 17th Jan 2014 | ||||||
5.14b/c | |||||||||
5.14c 5.14b/c | Logical Progression | 8 | Jo-yama | Mon 22nd Nov 2004 | |||||
5.14c 5.14b/c | Logical Progression | 8 | Jo-yama | Tue 27th Nov 2001 | |||||
V11 | |||||||||
V11 | ★★★ 董小姐直上 Miss Dong Direct (董小姐) - with 阿瑶 | 5m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Fri 12th Oct 2018 | ||||
右起~ 线路很漂亮很刺激 秋天是绝佳的攀爬季
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V11 | ★★★ 董小姐直上 Miss Dong Direct - with 浩浩 | 5m | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 15th Oct 2021 | ||||
有点吃臂展和能力...
起步手点感觉微妙,脚点极限,发力动作不平衡有随时开门的感觉。要在不平衡的状态下利用摆荡和下肢发力,出去之后左手不能脱,右手很大。后面就简单了。
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8A | |||||||||
8A | ★★★ Machine Gun | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Feb 2023 | |||||
8A | ★★★ Fai Faa - with first ascenting | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Feb 2012 | |||||
8A | ★★★ Mud Monster - with first ascenting | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 10th Jan 2013 | |||||
This one won a public video competition in Ötztal back in 2013 - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wEgLu3pigzM&t=2s
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8A | ★★★ Roof Rocker - with first ascent | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Jan 2013 | |||||
Start the classic ten commandments and cross all the roof, finish in the Aurochs. Roof-traversing at it's best
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8A | Thai Machine - with first ascent | Ton Sai | Wed 19th Feb 2014 | ||||||
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8A | ★★★ Gaeng Tai Pla - with Paul, Jakob | Ton Sai | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 15th Jan 2014 | |||||
Second ascent ever, many reps since |
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8A | ★★★ Machine Gun | Ton Sai | Wed 15th Jan 2014 | ||||||
5.14b | |||||||||
5.14c | FA ★★★ Spicy Noodle | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | 2009 | |||||
FFA.
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5.14b | ★★★ 法国流氓 French Gangster (French Gangster 法国流氓) | 47m, 25 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Apr 2009 | |||||
8c | |||||||||
8c | Corazón de Ensueño - with Chris Sharma | 240m | 安顺市 | Oct 2011 | |||||
5.14b | |||||||||
5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 (Tank) - with 谭啸非 | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th Mar 2020 | ||||
小角度的线路 脚的动作很多 对耐力有一定要求
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5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 - with 二大爷 | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★ Good | Sat 2nd May 2020 | ||||
呵呵,吊死狗~
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8c | |||||||||
8c | Corazón de Ensueño - with Alex Honnold | 240m | 安顺市 | Sat 23rd Apr 2016 | |||||
5.14b | |||||||||
5.14b | 三只小蜜蜂 Three Little Bees (Three Little Bees) | 42m, 18 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Mon 19th Nov 2018 | |||||
Gnarly boulder problem at the very top of Lei Pi. Felt impossible in the heat and only slightly easier in perfect conditions. Stoked!
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5.14c 5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle (Spicy Noodle) | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Sat 17th Nov 2018 | |||||
5.14b | ★★★ 世外桃源 Hidden Paradise - with 自然 | 25m, 8 | 淄博 Zi Bo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 17th Sep 2021 | ||||
花了很多时间,终于分到了第五把快挂的位置。爬的时候岩壁很潮湿,无法捏着钟乳去挂第五把快挂,后面的线路并没有尝试。第1-5把快挂大概是5.13bc的难度。
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5.13c 5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 - with Gillian 炭喵 | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | ||||
难点几乎一步一take,分的好艰辛,难点的扣扣、侧拉、pinch 都是左手,左手力量又好差😭
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5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 - with Mengdi | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Dec 2019 | ||||
人生第一条5.14b, 这种比较偏向于抱石线的短线还是比较难订级的;不过感觉上难度和Tricky Tracy比要稍难,比Space Jump简单
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with 77,子龙 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 24th Feb 2022 | ||||
16把
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with 子龙 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 4th Feb 2022 | ||||
2022年2月:
2/1攀爬 90分钟挂绳器捅上米粉第一个难点未能分步
2/4攀爬 3把攀爬 阳朔旅馆热身 分了2次米粉 第一个难点未能分步~
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5.14b | ★★★ 世外桃源 Hidden Paradise - with Eileen X Li | 25m, 8 | 淄博 Zi Bo | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | |||||
超出能力范围,起步至少v6,对手指压力很大。
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5.14b | 三只小蜜蜂 Three Little Bees - with 萧** | 42m, 18 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Wed 12th Oct 2022 | |||||
5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 7th Mar 2022 | ||||
5.14b | ★★★ 狮子王 - with Zhengzheng, 西元 | 35m, 19 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 8th Dec 2022 | ||||
临安又一条精彩的线路,30度均匀仰角直上15m的难点部分,动作极富张力与想象力,需要极强的力量耐力,绝对的梦幻线路。
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with 自由的半瓶水 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 25th Feb 2023 | ||||
5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with 你大K | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Mon 13th Mar 2023 | |||||
摸摸下半段感受一下
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle — 5 attempts - with 大坝 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Thu 16th Mar 2023 | ||||
难点分部完成,难点右手pinch比较吃摩擦力
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle — 9 attempts - with 任狐, 飞狼 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 20th Mar 2023 | ||||
第一次尝试就分布完成,以为是一条能力范围内的线,可惜爬了接近10把依然没有办法完整得将两个难点一起连起来,加上阳朔雨季的来临,只能把完攀计划放到冬季赛季。
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5.14b | ★★★ 狮子王 - with 任狐 | 35m, 19 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | Sat 22nd Jan 2022 | |||||
分了一把没分完,project。
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5.14b ~5.14a | ★★★ 法国流氓 French Gangster - with 阿爪 | 47m, 25 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Apr 2023 | ||||
是喜欢的直壁指力线 但是难点从左走挂脚韧带不行。。用人工点可以分步 也不算容易 算是分了一条美国黑帮吧 期待天气好再试
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5.14b | ★★★ 世外桃源 Hidden Paradise — 3 attempts | 25m, 8 | 淄博 Zi Bo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 27th Mar 2023 | ||||
已经分步完,线路很综合,扣,捏,屋檐都有,值得尝试
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5.14b ~5.14a | ★★ 右7 / Right 7 - with 君宝 | 40m, 12 | 马山 MaShan | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Dec 2019 | ||||
5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle - with 君宝 | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | Wed 25th Dec 2019 | |||||
5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle — 80 attempts | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 18th Mar 2023 | ||||
Working hard for 2 years.Ascent last moment to bite the bullet.
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5.14b | ★★★ 狮子王 | 35m, 19 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | ||||
慕名来尝试爬了一把 非常好的线路 中间15米的难点部分 大仰角 没有可以休息的地方 对耐力要求非常高。这条线路非常吃升高臂展 有两个动作没有分出来 172cm身高/170cm的臂展表示 这两个吃身高臂展动作几乎没戏。这条线路让我体会到矮个子的绝望 身高臂展被无情的碾压😂
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5.14b | ★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle | 38m, 14 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th May 2023 | ||||
基本分完,看看接下来还有没有天气窗口把难点连起来,再试试红线
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5.14b | FA ★★★ 虎寐 Sleepy Tiger — 16 attempts - with Comolanieve77 | 10m, 5 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 5th Jun 2023 | ||||
5.14b ~5.13d | ★★ Tank 坦克 — 9 attempts - with Comolanieve77, 非囧 | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | ||||
5.14b | ★★ Tank 坦克 | 9 | 昆明 Kunming | ★ Good | Tue 12th Sep 2023 | ||||
害,怎么说呢?就是感觉自己又行了……然而线路又抽了我俩耳光
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