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Summary

A strange mix of old-school trad routes on the walls around the falls and modern bouldering in the creek bed. Fine grained granite, large boulders

Description

Deep gorge not far from Armidale, off Waterfall Way. Old neglected trad climbs with bouldering at their base. Perhaps 20 boulder problems established so far, with scope for more, and potential for bolted and naturally protected climbs as well. Access is steep and difficult, straight off the lookout.

Access issues

From Armidale head east on the waterfall way for 20kms, then right at the sign post, onto dirt for a couple kms.

Approach

From the lookout, jump the fence on the right and follow a faint track down to the right. Caution must be taken walking in as the decent is very steep. As you approach there is a promising looking boulder that you soon realize is the size of a house. Most established boulder problems are downstream of this (problem 'High times and down beats' is upstream of the giant block and 'One too many' sits against it), but future problems exist right through the gorge from the waterfall downstream.

History

Bob Harden and Doug McLean formed a climbing group called the Delta Club, a breakaway group from the University Of New England Mountaineering Club (UNEMC). Starts of climbs were marked with a Delta instead of the usual square. Some of these markings were still visible at Bakers Creek in the early seventies but have since been worn away. Two climbs were put up in 1964 by Harden and McLean. They are Bakercide (6) and Nitrocide(8).1967 produced only two new ones, Hardicide (14) by Thomas and the tricky Speleocide (12) by B.Douglas. Mills pioneered two new ones in 1969, the best being Klettercide (12). 1971 produced five, the best being Pissed Psychedelic Peanut (15) by A.Suters and Cornelius Corners (15) by Rob Dixon. In 1980, Austin Legler with Greg (Dulux) Pritchard did Basilisk (16). 1981 saw Al Stephens climb White Man’s Burden (20) with Clark and in 1985, Stephens made another brief visit to establish Cheesy Gland (20), a variant finish to Cornelius Corners. In 1986 Stephens with Larry Dixon eliminated all aid on ADP, now 21.

This history was documented in 'Waterfalls-A Rock climbers guide to the waterfalls of New England' by Al Stephens (1996).

After years of neglect, the area received a second wind after Artie Schultz heard from Rick Curtis that a few trad lines had been done there but no record of them existed (oh yes they did and now they are in this guide...). The new generation was after quality bouldering and it seems they found some.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
11 Ammon Trad 15m

The climbs are described in an anti-clockwise direction when facing the falls.

Start: A crack on a wall in the watercourse below the pool. 15m. Up the crack

FA: R.Dixon, D.Gallimore, 1961

2
22 Klettercide Trad 20m

Start: The right-hand side of the large pool. A short face.

20m. Up and slightly left to the top of the short face.

FA: D.Mills, D.Jones, 1969

3
16 Basilisk Trad 20m

Start: Just left of Klettercide (?) , the middle of the wall.

20m. Up fine line in wall to top and then right to tree belay.

FA: A.Legler, G.Pritchard, 1980

4
21 ADP Trad 10m

Start: An old water-level aid line, M1 from Right to Left. It has been freed from Left to Right at grade 21.

10m. Aid from right to left M1, or free from left to right, either way its good fun.

FA: B.Harden, (R. to L.), 1965

FFA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, (L. to R.) Jan. 86, 1986

5

At the end of ADP is a ledge near the water-level. From this ledge White Man’s Burden goes up and around to the right, while Davicide goes straight up to the left.

Start: On the ledge. Step out and around right then up.

20m. A slightly overhanging and diagonal crack. Strenuous layaways lead to a slight rest at half height. More layaways and delicate moves lead to easier ground and a tree belay.

FA: A.Stephens, R.Clark, 1981

6
13 Davicide Trad 60m

Start: As for W.M.B. The major crack on the right-hand side of the falls.

  1. 45m. Up the crack and traverse left across the slabs.

  2. 15m. Up the upper falls chimney, (crux) then out onto the face to the top.

FA: J.Davis, B.Harden, 1965

7
M1 Bryocide Trad 10m

Start: Upper falls, on the right of the water. 10m. Climb up underneath overhanging tree, then aid up and over the right-hand end of the overhang, and continue up the crack, the right hand one.

FA: B.Harden, M.Thomas, 1965

8

Start: A classic. Nice moves on beautiful rock. Excellent.

  1. Follow the slightly diagonal groove, then up over a short wall and delicately up a smooth thin crack to the left of the smooth slabs, to a large ledge

FA: A.Suters, S.Ashton, R.Dixon, 1971

9
13 Punjacide. Trad 25m

Start: On the platform above water level, 2m to the right of the main water chute.

25m. Up and slightly left to a ledge, traverse left, then up slabs.

FA: I.Logan, D.McLean, 1965

10
11 Can’t Decide Trad 30m

Start: 1m. right of the main water course. The smooth slabs.

30m. Straight up the smooth slabs.

FA: D.Mills, J.Street, 1969

11
10 Fungicide Trad 40m

Start: Possible only during drought. At the base of the main water chute.

  1. 30m. Straight up the water chute.

  2. 10m. On the upper falls, the finish goes directly up the face slightly to the right of the water chute.

FA: B.Harden, M.Thomas, 1965

12
6 Bakercide Trad 30m

Start: About 6m. right of the corner,at the left end of the waterfall face.

30m. Climb up to the ledge, walk right, across to the water chute, then up to top.

FA: B.Harden, D.McLean, 1964

13
11 Normacide Trad 60m

Start: About 6m right of the corner, as for Bakercide.

  1. 45m.Up to a large block, over this and up a ramp to the bottom of the wall.

  2. 15m. Up the wall and the obvious crack (crux).

FA: D.Mills, D.McLean, 1966

14
9 Hydrocide Trad 40m

Start: In the corner/gully to the left of the falls. 40m. Up the right wall and wander up below Nitrocide to just below a smooth slab. Up the crack to the left to finish as for Nitrocide.

FA: B.Douglas, E.Cantrill, 1967

15
8 Nitrocide. Trad 40m

Start: As for Hydrocide.

40m. Straight up the orner/gully.

FA: B.Harden, G.Hindmarsh, D.McLean, 1964

16
12 Speleocide Trad 35m

Start: At the slightly overhanging wall at the Right-hand end of the major rock platform. A real mystery climb.

  1. Up the corner to a triangular ledge. From here traverse right, through a "cave" to a ramp, and then a groove to the top.

FA: B.Douglas and party, 1967

17
14 Hardicide Trad 50m

Start: As for Speleocide. An excellent steep start.

    1. Up the corner (crux) to the large triangular ledge. Step left around bulge and up to grassy ledge.
  1. 30m. Straight up then slightly right to overhang. Step up slabs on the left and straight to top. Tree belay.

FA: M.Thomas, E.Cantrill, A.Gallagher, 1967

18

Start: Just left of Hardicide is a harder crack start

FA: B.Douglas, 1968

19

Start: A corner just around from Hardicide. At one time it was disputed whether this was 'The Great White Father' (12), by D.Gallimore, C.Hansen, C.Cowled, Mar. 71. One seems to be a slight variant of the other.

40m. Directly up to crack, hand traverse right and mantle to belay. Up the V-groove, or the wall beside and continue to top

FA: B.Killip, N.Hughes, 1971

20
15 Cornelius Corner Trad 40m

Start: 15m. left of G.D. The line of triangular corners. A nice climb, a little loose in parts.

  1. 25m. Up the line of triangular corners directly to belay ledge.

  2. 15m. Move right and up to top.

FA: R.Dixon, N.Hughes, 1971

21
20 Cheesy Gland Trad 50m

Start: As for C.C. pitch 1, then move out left and straight up the steep buttress.

  1. 30m. Cornelius Corners to the belay.

  2. 20m. (crux) Continue straight up to the overlap, move out left (poor pro) and clip BR, then pull over the overlap and up open corner/wall past 2nd BR to top. (#4 Rock very useful).

FA: A.Stephens and party, 1985

22
9 Sunnicide Trad 40m

Start: At the left-hand end of the buttress, left of Cornelius Corners opposite the falls. Variant starts and finishes have been done.

  1. 25m. Up the slab in the corner, then up right in a crack to a fig-tree ledge.

  2. 15m. Up into “cave”, traverse right to finish up corner.

FA: M.Thomas, E.Cantrill, D.Fisher, 1966

23
6 Frigid Air Trad 27m

Start: On the slabs 30m. Downstream of Sunnicide.

  1. 15m. Up slabs to tree belay.

  2. 12m. Continue up slabs to top.

FA: P.Prior and party, 1974

24
12 Cams Corner Trad 20m

Start: From Sunnicide, down the creek for about 50m. to a small face on the left side. The climb is a corner at the right-hand end of this face. Rarely climbed, it may be very dirty.

20m. Up the corner.

FA: C.Cowled, M.Davies, 1971

25
V0 * Water traverse Boulder

Easy fun traverse

26

Great move over a little creek

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

27
V6 Cave project Boulder Project

Start on jug under roof, move out and left and up

28
V4 ** Arete Boulder Project

Awkward start up arete, directly below 'Wet bottom disease'

29

'sitstart, into undercling and long moves to jugs higher up, traverse right along rail to finish

30
V3 One Too Many Boulder

sitstart in crevice between boulders, big move to gain jug, then move left on slopers to mantle

31
Project near nice arete Boulder Project

Just above the nice arete

32
V1 *** Nice arete Boulder 6m

SDS Great fun arete with committing top out

FA: Sam Van Gastel and Allan Ezzy

33
V0 * Easy crack Boulder 5m

3m right of nice arete

34
V4 Seam project Boulder Project

Low start, with small holds welded into the seam

35
V0 Thin fin Boulder 4m

Easy moves

36
V15 Steep project Boulder Project 5m
37
V2 ** 3 inch pinch Boulder 3m

Stand on boulder to start, technical pinch then easy jugs

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

38
Stream project Boulder Project 4m

Step over stream, with high left start, throw right, then big move to top

39

Start back on jugs, traverse lip then top out

FA: Artie Schultz

40
V5 *** Roof extension Boulder 5m

Keep traversing then hard mantle on angular slopers

41
V5 *** Baked Black Dick Boulder

incut edge for left hand, poor pinch for right hand, slap to sloping rail and campus moves to cool mantle

42

Mad dyno or heel hook first move from the obvious rail to good hold, traverse left to tricky topout

43
V3 * Paranoid Direct' Boulder

right heel hook start, follow arete to same topout as 'Pack...

44
Project Boulder Project

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