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Summary

Fine grained granite, large boulders

Description

Deep gorge not far from Armidale, off Waterfall way. I heard from Rick Curtis that a few trad lines had been done there but no record of them exists. Perhaps 20 boulder problems established so far, with scope for more, and potential for bolted and naturally protected climbs as well. Access is steep and difficult, straight off the lookout.

Access issues

From Armidale head east on the waterfall way for 20kms, then right at the sign post, onto dirt for a couple kms.

Approach

From the lookout, jump the fence on the right and follow a faint track down to the right. Caution must be taken walking in as the decent is very steep. As you approach there is a promising looking boulder that you soon realize is the size of a house. Most established boulder problems are downstream of this (problem 'High times and down beats' is upstream of the giant block and 'One too many' sits against it), but future problems exist right through the gorge from the waterfall downstream.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V0 * Water traverse Boulder

Easy fun traverse

2

Great move over a little creek

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

3
V6 Cave project Boulder Project

Start on jug under roof, move out and left and up

4
V4 ** Arete Boulder Project

Awkward start up arete, directly below 'Wet bottom disease'

5

'sitstart, into undercling and long moves to jugs higher up, traverse right along rail to finish

6
V3 One Too Many Boulder

sitstart in crevice between boulders, big move to gain jug, then move left on slopers to mantle

7
Project near nice arete Boulder Project

Just above the nice arete

8
V1 *** Nice arete Boulder 6m

SDS Great fun arete with committing top out

FA: Sam Van Gastel and Allan Ezzy

9
V0 * Easy crack Boulder 5m

3m right of nice arete

10
V4 Seam project Boulder Project

Low start, with small holds welded into the seam

11
V0 Thin fin Boulder 4m

Easy moves

12
V15 Steep project Boulder Project 5m
13
V2 ** 3 inch pinch Boulder 3m

Stand on boulder to start, technical pinch then easy jugs

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2010

14
Stream project Boulder Project 4m

Step over stream, with high left start, throw right, then big move to top

15

Start back on jugs, traverse lip then top out

FA: Artie Schultz

16
V5 *** Roof extension Boulder 5m

Keep traversing then hard mantle on angular slopers

17
V5 *** Baked Black Dick Boulder

incut edge for left hand, poor pinch for right hand, slap to sloping rail and campus moves to cool mantle

18

Mad dyno or heel hook first move from the obvious rail to good hold, traverse left to tricky topout

19
V3 * Paranoid Direct' Boulder

right heel hook start, follow arete to same topout as 'Pack...

20
Project Boulder Project

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