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Description

A cave that has some great steep climbing, with a couple of less steep routes on the left. An excellent destination in its own right, in particular for the 27 Mr Redeemer, an absolute must do!

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 * PHM3 Sport 10m, 6

Short, ugly looking route on the left end of the cave. Actually climbs quite well. Very well bolted!

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

2

Megan has sent this after a long term siege. 27/28? Still waiting for the name and grade.

FFA: Megan Turnbull.

Set by Megan Turnbull.

3
26 ** New Climb?? Sport 10

A new line that finishes as for circle of doom, no details known??

FA: steve grkovic

4
26 ** Circle of Doom Sport 15m, 8

Awesome climb of mixed styles.Can seep after long periods of rain.

FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2009

5
27 ** The Dark Hour of Reason Sport 15m, 8

R of COD. A sustained and crimpy start then easier head wall on amazing rock. Soft tick at the grade but good climbing.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2009

6
27 * Cavern Fever Sport 18m

Right of TDHOR. Hard start if you are short but nice after that. Grade 26 if you are tall?

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

7
28 ** Gods Forgotten Brother Sport 20m, 8

Unfortunately a very difficult start has to be contended with before you can enjoy the fun and sustained climbing through the roof and up the attractive headwall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2010

8
28 * Perch, Search and Lurch Sport 18m, 11

Starts from the stone pyramid at the back of the cave. Generally steep and pumpy climbing, but with a very hard sequence off the halfway ledge, aptly named.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

9
31 Fast Forward the Future Sport 17m, 8

Shares the same first bolt as Perch, Search, Lurch, then right to underclings in the ceiling and a crux sequence that has repelled many. Great steep climbing to the anchors. May be an easy tick if you are adept at toe-hooks or unusually tall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2011

10
Victim of Imagination Sport Project 17m, 8

The direct start to FFTF. The twin underclings in the roof look V11...

Set by Steve Grkovic

11

A link of the Mr Redeemer start to the 5th? bolt then traverse a rad ironstone break into the upper crux of Fast Forward The Future.

FA:

12
27 *** Mr Redeemer Sport 18m, 10

Steep and ultra sustained roof climbing with long moves. One of the most immaculate roof climbs in the Blueys.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

13
27 ** Epsilon Asylum Sport 18m, 10

The hard and confusing start has deterred many but stick with it as good value climbing is the reward above. The sustained top headwall crux will have your arms screaming but your face smiling.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

14
29 ** Zodiac Youth Sport 18m

Good all the way, with a hard start and finish. Once you have a draw on the last bolt, most people find it easier to skip the awkwardly placed 2nd to last bolt. Can be linked into the top of SBA to give an easier finish (about 27-if you can get off the ground).

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

15
30 *** Space Between Atoms Sport 16m, 8

A popular and sustained climb and considered soft if you have the right beta. Low first crux and sustained top half, a little slice of nowra.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

16
29 ** La Nina Sport 15m, 7

A long move at the second bolt, then superb climbing to a bouldery crux. Be prepared to get frustrated if you are trying this one during a La Niña weather pattern.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

17
26 * Justifiable Actions Sport 10m, 6

Short, with a bouldery mid-height crux and potential to fall off the finish.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

18

Shares the same anchor as JA. A sustained and fun route: yes, you can get pumped in just 10m!

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

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