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Summary

The big bad hard man super roof cave at the far end of the sunny side of the gorge. Home of the mega classic roof climb Mr Redeemer.

Description

See http://bmtopos.com for more.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 * PHM3 Sport 10m, 6

Short, ugly looking route on the left end of the cave. Actually climbs quite well. Very well bolted!

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

2

Set by Megan Turnbull.

3
26 *** Circle of Doom Sport 15m, 8

Awesome climb of mixed styles.Can seep after long periods of rain.

FFA: Megan Turnbull

4

Good crimpy start then easier head wall on amazing rock. Next climb right from C.O.D.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2009

5
27 * Cavern fever Sport 18m

right of T.D.H.O.R. hard start if you are short but nice after that. grade 26 if you are tall?

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

6

Really hard first move then out roof flakes/breaks

7

start at cairn and go left to ledge and burst a vein trying to leave. cruxy

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

9
Victim of Imagination Sport Project 17m, 8

The direct start to fast forward the future. The twin underclings in the roof look V11...

Set by Steve Grkovic

10
27 *** Mr Redeemer Sport 18m, 10

One of the most immaculate roof climbs in the Blueys

11
27 Epsilon Asylum Sport 18m, 10
12
29 ** Zodiac Youth Sport 18m

start right of E.A.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

13
30 *** Space between atoms Sport 18m

Twin side pulls in the top half, popular 30 in the area.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

14
29 ** La Nina Sport 16m

big move at the start then head up and left for the crux

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

15
26 * Justifiable actions Sport 12m

short route but you need to work hard to finish

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

16

enjoyable moves all the way

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

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