Ajuda

The Devils Circus

  • Contexto da graduação: AU
  • Fotos: 5
  • Ascensões: 317

Access: Bell is located inside of the Blue Mountains National Park. Dogs are strictly prohibited!

Do not, under any circumstance, bring dogs into the Bell climbing area - this includes the carpark and approach track. Smoking and campfires are also prohibited within this area all year.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 years ago - Edited 3 years ago
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Descrição

A cave that has some great steep climbing, with a couple of less steep routes on the left. An excellent destination in its own right.

As always, keep packs, belayers and spectators clear of rockfall. Even the most well trafficked routes at this crag still have loose, fragile or hollow rock.

Questões de acesso herdado de Bell Supercrag

Any rescues at this area are going to be problematic due to the steep access via rungs. Make an effort to stick clip first bolts and watch for loose rock and skulls. The popularity of this area means we all must do our best to reduce our environmental impact. Stick to established tracks, don't leave rock cairns or other track markings (it's already obvious!). Shit at home or at the servo on the way to the crag - not in the canyon. This is a National Park so absolutely no dogs, no smoking and no camp fires. Even if it's winter. NO FIRES. NO DOGS. Our ongoing access to this area is not guaranteed and depends on us looking after the place.

Ética herdado de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Etiquetas

Vias

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Grade Via

Short, ugly looking route on the left end of the cave. Actually climbs quite well. Very well bolted!

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

Megan has sent this after a long term siege. 27/28? Still waiting for the name and grade.

FFA: Megan Turnbull.

Set: Megan Turnbull.

Boulder start in the cave immediately left of Circle of Doom. Heads right at top to share last bolt and anchors with its neighbour.

FA: steve grkovic

Awesome climb of mixed styles. Can seep after long periods of rain.

FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2009

R of COD. A sustained and crimpy start then easier head wall on amazing rock. Good climbing.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2009

Right of TDHOR. Hard start if you are short but nice after that.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

Unfortunately a very difficult start has to be contended with before you can enjoy the fun and sustained climbing through the roof and up the attractive headwall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2010

Starts from the stone pyramid at the back of the cave. Generally steep and pumpy climbing, but with a very hard sequence off the halfway ledge, aptly named.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

Shares the same first bolt as Perch, Search, Lurch, then right to underclings in the ceiling and a crux sequence that has repelled many. Great steep climbing to the anchors. May be an easy tick if you are adept at toe-hooks or unusually tall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2011

The direct start to FFTF. The twin underclings in the roof look V11...

Set: Steve Grkovic

A link of the Mr Redeemer start to the 5th? bolt then traverse a rad ironstone break into the upper crux of Fast Forward The Future.

FA:

Steep and ultra sustained roof climbing with long moves. One of the most immaculate roof climbs in the Blueys. Has permadraws for bolts 2-6 (Oct 2021).

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

The hard and confusing start has deterred many but stick with it as good value climbing is the reward above. The sustained top headwall crux will have your arms screaming but your face smiling.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

Good all the way, with a hard start and finish. Once you have a draw on the last bolt, most people find it easier to skip the awkwardly placed 2nd to last bolt. Can be linked into the top of SBA to give an easier finish (about 27-if you can get off the ground).

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

A popular and sustained climb. Low first crux and sustained top half, a little slice of Nowra.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

A long move at the second bolt, then superb climbing to a bouldery crux. Be prepared to get frustrated if you are trying this one during a La Niña weather pattern.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

Short, with a bouldery mid-height crux and potential to fall off the finish.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

Shares the same anchor as JA. A sustained and fun route: yes, you can get pumped in just 10m!

As of 27/8/17 the large shale jug at the second bolt ripped off and the pinned edge is moving. Please don't climb until fix.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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