★★★ Hermes 16

A classic. The intimidating roof section is easier than it look. Start at the left-hand side of the pillar four metres left of 'Little Hermes'. A large cam is required to safely protect both pitches (#5 is ideal, but a #4 will suffice if you're happy to wriggle in to place it).

1. 24 metres - Climb the chimney and corner crack to the top, step right and climb a short wall to a good ledge. Climb the slab, using a thin crack, to a tree belay (originally done in two pitches).

2. 26 metres - Up the magnificent corner crack (#5 protects potential ledge fall) and out right under the overhang. Belay on the ledge above or eight metres right.

The ethic at Booroomba is generally staunchly traditional. Most climbing goes either entirely on gear or gear with bolts for those walls where there is insufficient gear to protect climbs. Climbs are occasionally rebolted, but retro-bolting would be considered vandalism of the lowest order.