Routes in The Gorge - North Side

Takes the crack facing out into the gorge, with a steep start.

Brushed streak (not so brushed any more) on left end of upper part of North Wall. Starts at bottom of second abseil on Comet Ramp at a small flake corner.

P.1... semi hanging belay on 1 carrot, 1 FH and 1 chain loop

P.2. 2 carrot bolts, 5FH's plus natural gear. This pitch was brushed 12/01/2022, but could do with more.

Quality, clean all-free route up the 'North Wall'. Equipped to rap down/climb out. Finishes in the same spot as Yellow Moon.

Start: Rap off gum to chains at top of wall 50m right (looking out)of Defender rap, where Yellow Moon finishes. Yellow moon rap chains are on steep part of the slab a few metres down from the obvious ledge. 45m rap to DBB (2 carrots on small stance on left side of the big arch), then 50m rap to deck. DBB at base of route, 10 metres downhill from where you land on rap.

1. 25m (20) step right off belay then follow crack up and left to sickle. Belay at DBB. Cams and wires to Camalot#2

2. 25m (24) Step left (bolt)and gingerly into pod below bleached crack of Zeus. Up crack (crux) to stance (bolt). Continue straight up crack past another bolt to belay on stance left of arching roof. 'Small' and medium wires, cams to Camalot#2

3. 45m (23) Up past 4 bolts,left onto large dyke. Up dyke (2 bolts)to re-gain crack. Up (bolt)to left leading ramp. up this past 2 bolts to DBB with chain. Med Wires and Cams to Camalot #2

Fantastic climbing in an awesome position. Although it was given zero stars in the '06 guidebook, this route is gaining the popularity it deserves.

A 55m abseil from the two large snowgums atop Defender of the Faith Variant Finish lands you at a 2BB.

Challenging moves from the belay lead to a series of vertical cracks and flakes. Clip a BR and move left into the corner system and follow this to a ledge (joining Defender of the Faith Variant Finish). Belay possible here, or simply finish up the corner system.

A great climb to do as an Aid warm up for Ozymandias Direct, A great free climb too I am sure! https://vimeo.com/57035617

P1 (40m - M3): starting on ledge, move up chimney and then easy free moves up ramp. Up thin corner and either: (a) reach around arete to bolt and traverse via flake to crack on left, or (b) continue up corner to carrot bolt near arete and tension traverse to crack system. Up to belay at manky carrot and piton (supplement with good gear at level of piton).

P2 (40m - M2): Up crack and through roof. Follow crack line to a one person stance below a rooflet (2 new bolts and one carrot).

P3 (40m - M2): up to carrot and through roof. Follow crack until it peters out, switching to crack system on left, then back to the right towards the top of the pitch. Up awkwardly to ledge (a short fixed line from ledge belay may be present to help).

P4&5 (14). Easiest way to the top - "an excellent mountaineering challenge" i.e. can be wet and slimy. Alternatively a fixed line can be left from the top abseil station of the DotF descent - padding the edge with a rope protector is recommended.

This variant of 'Defender of the Faith' offers more sustained climbing than the other free variant.

Abseil as for 'Banisters Rush' to a small stance with large hollow flake on left (about 8m higher than the 'Banisters Rush' belay), trad belay. Straight up flakes and cracks to join 'Defender of the Faith'. Finish as for 'Defender of the Faith Variant Finish' (or choose the harder direct finish if you wish).

Start: Start as for Emperor, down and right of the obvious amazing Emperor chimney above.

1. 24m (15) As for Emperor.

2. 30m (21)

3. 40m (- M5)

4. 43m (- M5)

5. 12m (-)

6. 46m (-)

Start: Start by rapping in 65m to the top of p3 of Il Duce.

1. 45m (28)

2. 25m (19)

Start: Start atop p2 of Il Duce.

1. 45m (25)

2. 25m (23)

3. 34m (21) As for Führer p4.

1. 24m (15) As for Il Duce p1.

2. 30m (21) As for Il Duce p2.

3. 45m (25) As for 'El Supremo' p1.

4. 25m (23) As for 'El Supremo' p2.

5. 30m (25) As for 'Lebensraum' p2.

The Variant Start (described below) is possibly a better and cleaner way to do this.

Start: Start as for Emperor.

1. 34m (15)

2. 42m (21)

3. 40m (17) As for Führer p3.

4. 34m (21) As for Führer p4.

Little is known about this but it looks like a nice clean way to start Führer Eliminate.

Start: Start as for Führer.

1. 34m (25)

2. 34m (25) M3 if aided.

3. 40m (17)

4. 34m (21)

Start: Start as for Führer.

1. 30m (25) - 4 bolts

2. 43m (25) - 1 bolts

3. 35m (24) - 3 bolts

4. 32m (25)

Start: 'Access' by 2 abseils down the route: 40m to bolted anchor (which is the 3rd belay of Mein Kampf), then another 25m to a trad belay alcove just L of the 2nd belay of 'Lord of the Flies'.

1. 25m (23) - 7 bolts

2. 30m (25)

Start: Stat as for Führer.

1. 34m (25) As for Führer p1.

2. 27m (23)

3. 24m (19)

4. 35m (23)

5. 18m (-)

1. 35m (21 M1)

2. 40m (21 M1)

1. 40m (21)

2. 27m (- M5)

3. 24m (-)

4. 21m (-)

5. 43m (-)

1. 46m (23)

2. 21m (-)

3. 24m (- M4)

4. 21m (-)

5. 43m (-)

1. 46m (23)

2. 27m (- M1)

3. 43m (-)

4. 43m (-)

1. 46m (23)

2. 27m (- M1)

3. 57m (- M5)

4. 24m (-)

5. 21m (16) As for 'Ozymandias' p9.

6. 24m (14) As for 'Ozymandias' p10.

Start: Start as for She.

1. 36m (18 M4)

2. 24m (- M5) The M5 grade probably comes from this pitch.

3. 30m (-)

What a way to spend Xmas.

Start: Start as for 'Usurper'.

1. 35m (18 M4) Same as 'Usurper'.

2. 40m (- M4)

3. 20m (- M4) 3? bolts.

4. 29m (- M4)

5. 25m (- M4)

6. 21m (16) As for 'Ozymandias' 2nd last pitch.

7. 24m (14) As for 'Ozymandias' last pitch.

Start: Start at the 4th belay of Magic and Loss (or one pitch higher at the 3rd last belay of Ozymandias).

1. 10m (-)

2. 25m (- M4)

3. 15m (- M4)

4. 20m (- M4)

Start: Start at thin crack 27m R of 'Tyrant', a few metres L of the original's aid bolts.

1. 40m (21)

2. 25m (21)

3. 33m (-)

4. 27m (- M6)

5. 25m (-)

6. 21m (16) As for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'

7. 24m (14) As for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'

Start: A Link up from the 3rd belay of She into the roof section of 'Ozymandias'.

Apart from the pendule from Magic & Loss into She, it's hard to see how this differs from p1 of 'Strange Ritual'.

Start: Start at the 4th belay of She.

Start: Start as for She.

1. 40m (21) As for She.

2. 40m (21 M1)

3. 35m (22)

4. 30m (22) As for the 5th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

5. 35m (22) As for the 4th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

6. 15m (19) Traverse L as for the 3rd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

7. 21m (16) Chimneys as for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

8. 24m (14) Chimneys as for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

Start: Abseil 50m down R from 'Fuhrer' Ledge to a shallow corner with grass tree and ledge at 12m.

1. 40m (-)

2. 27m (- M5)

3. 35m (20)

4. 8m (-) R to join 'Ozymandias' about 15m above Big Grassy. Finish up the last 5 and a half pitches of 'Ozymandias', or up 'Ozymandias Direct' or whatever else takes your fancy in the vicinity.

An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.

1. 27, 35m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door and Free Reign in right facing corner. Continue up this for roughly 8m then move slightly left and over bulge. Continue up the right facing features above the initial corner until it becomes possible to climb rightward across a sequence of underclings toward more sustained climbing and a mix of bolts and natural gear placements.

2. 27, 50m. Follow the obvious right facing sickle-shaped tips layback until it peters out and leaves you in apparent blankness. Solve the puzzle then continue for 30+ meters up the shallow open scoop with many block holds and carrot bolts.

3. 27, 40m. As for pitch 5 of Free Reign up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up slab and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots.

4. 22, 35m. As for pitch 6 of Ozymandias Original. Follow obvious crack to the left and up through steepness to the sloping ledge and triple bolt belay.

5. 27, 50m. Follow the traverse pitch of Ozymandias Original pitch 7 for approximately 5 meters until it becomes possible to climb straight up a series of positive cracks toward the large, steep right facing corner above. Continue up corner until it becomes a roof and it is possible to clip a fixed hanger straight out the roof. Climb past this and over the headwall for the last of the routes' difficult climbing. Enjoy the wild position and hard climbing beneath your feet! Once a large ledge is reached either belay from here to break pitch into two or pick your way through the wide climbing to the top of the cliff.

An exceptional free route that follows a logical line up several different aid lines. This route crosses some amazing terrain from wicked slabs to gymnastic steep slapping and some typical granite corner climbing. All pitches have a mix of bolts and natural gear with the occasional piton or aid mank here and there. Take a standard rack up to 3 Camalot and some small wires.

1. 22, 30m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door at small right facing corner 30 meters below the second abseil down ‘Comet ramp’. Beautiful laybacking for 8 meters then follow feature rightward under yellow roof. Belay at 4BB. (small-mid wires, small to large cams).

2. 28, 30m. Powerful dynamic climbing past 3 fixed hangers out to and up hanging arête, then step right into next crack system at height of roof, follow this for about 10m until a finger crack leads left to belay stance 1BB and #3 Camalot. (small – mid cams).

3. 23, 25m. Step left into twin seams following a few mashies, continue up for about 6 meters until it becomes possible to reach left to good holds leading directly leftward 5 meters to big left facing flakes. Continue up flakes to several fixed hangers and thinner moves. Belay at stance to the right with small – mid cams. (mid – large cams and some fixed bits and bobs).

4. 28, 30m. Follow easy crack for about 5 meters then step left into seam with fixed RP and small wire placement, continue straight up to two consecutive left leading flakes (fixed hanger). Delicate moves left into crack, up a few meters then left again to fixed hanger. Left again to crack then up to a 2BB at small stance. (small wires and small cams)

5. 27, 40m. Head right and up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots. (Small – mid cams).

6. 28, 30m. ‘Piton Roof ‘ Insecure climbing straight up small yellow right facing corner to roof past small wires and cams. Two novel pitons protect thin moves rightward under roof to powerful crack and layback over the lip. Continue 7m to 4BB. (micro wires and small - mid cams)

7. 22, 30m. As for Rats in Paradise. Follow crack as it transition to offwidth then back to flake. Reach left as flake ends to belay on small ledge at 2BB. (mid – large cams)

8. 20, 40m. Elegant offwidthing up and left past 2 fixed hangers then straight up more offwidth to topout at Wilkinsons Lookout.

Start: Start 6m R of KoHD.

1. 35m (-)

2. 40m (-)

3. 35m (-)

4. 40m (-)

5. 25m (-)

6. 55m (- M8) M9 but the ACA scale ends at M8!

7. 20m (-) As for 'Lord Gumtree'

Start: Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

1. 25m (- M2) Two bolts off the deck to L-trending slab (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack.

2. 35m (- M4) Sustained aiding up the thin corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. Cam hooks are useful, but far from necessary. Take plenty of RPs and wires regardless.

3. 40m (- M4) Continue up the corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Move left to ledge with tree to belay.

4. 8m (10) This last bit to Big Grassy is best kept as a separate pitch to avoid ridiculous rope drag. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

5. 35m (- M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the L line after 20?m (R line is Ozy Direct), then up to DBB at start of amazing corner.

6. 30m (- M2) Up the corner. Belay off to the L.

7. 35m (- M3) Some awkward times lie ahead. Up through the dirty cracks and bulges. Finish at semi-hanging TBB.

8. 15m (- M2) Traverse L to ledge.

9. 20m (14) Chimneys. Have fun with the haul sack if you brought one.

10. 25m (10) More chimneys. You will be loving your pig even more by the end!

If you start at Big Grassy, pitches 4-9 make a great outing at 24 (and after the first 5m it's 22). You can abseil to Big Grassy direct with a single 150m rope (or via multiple abseils with 2 50m ropes if you know what you're doing).

Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

1. 25m (23) Bouldery moves past 2 bolts, then L up slabby ramp to crack. Up to flake/ledge (DBB).

2. 52m (28) The amazing thin corner, which gets a bit funky in places. Climb straight past the aid belay at 30m and finish on a ledge off to the R just after 50m (DBB).

3. 30m (25) Up the thin corner (you might need to dig out dirt from some holds), then hand traverse L to ledge. Up crack to Big Grassy (FHs).

4. 35m (24) Thin gear and moves up the corner above Big Grassy (technically a couple grades easier on top rope, but the gear fills up the holds and running it out above a ledge fall is not much of an option). The pitch then gets a bit easier, up the grassy face crack slightly R of the corner, then over yellow rooflet and up THE corner a little way to an uncomfortable hanging belay (DFH). It's a major shame that these bolts weren't placed lower at a natural stance; this corner would be even more of a mega pitch otherwise.

5. 30m (22) Probably the best grade 22 pitch at Buffalo, despite the artificial hanging stance where it starts. The searing L-trending corner is quality all the way. Quite sustained. Just before the top of the corner follow the traverse line 5m L to a trad belay on the arete.

6. 35m (22) Interesting cracks through the bulges around to the L. Sustained, wide at times, and grungy; but good value. Triple FH belay.

7. 15m (19) Traverse L along vigorous crack to ledge.

8. 20m (14) A tricky start, then head up the labyrinth of chimneys.

9. 25m (10) Up the chimneys and big blocks to freedom, salvation and glory.

Start beneath the massive corner blasting up the start of the highest part of the wall.

Bivy options: There are a few decent spots around the base. Big Grassy (which is not flat by any means) and the small flattish ledge 8m below are the most luxurious bivvy options on the route. The fixed hangers at the end of pitch 6 and The Gledhill Bivvy at the end of pitch 8 offer waterproof spots for a portaledge. Gledhill and Big Grassy also have hammock anchors.

1. 25m (M2) Slime Corner. Two bolts off the deck (Deck potential, often stick-clipped) to L-trending slab with slime-filled corner (might have to dig out some placements!) then up the crack. To DBB on a flake. It's possible to link 1 and 2.

2. 35m (M4) Big Corner part 1. Sustained aiding on thin pin scars up the corner to a hanging belay on the R wall. If you're struggling, imagine freeing it!

3. 40m (M4) Big Corner part 2. More pin scars up the same corner, using a mixture of thin and fixed gear. Swing left to small tree and ledge to trad belay in corner on the left. Typically linked with pitch 4 (better for hauling) by back-cleaning most of pitch 4, otherwise rope drag will be ludicrous.

4. 8m (10) Corner hand crack and tricky flop onto Big Grassy. Alternatively, finish pitch 3 at the belay at the end of pitch 2 of free version (ledge off to the R with DBB), then take the fourth pitch all the way to Big Grassy.

5. 35m (M3) More thin gear up the corner above Big Grassy. Take the left corner line after the roof at 25m to hanging DBB for the "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version) or the less popular right line which is part of the original Ozymandias Direct line.

6. -Option A 30m (M2) "Ozymandias Variant M2"/"Ozymandias direct(free version)" Up the beautiful corner (finger crack layback goes free at 22), at double carrots head right past two fixed hangers to a hanging triple bolt belay on the arete under the Great Roof. Option B. 25m (M4) Ozymandias Direct - follow corner on RPs, wires, tie offs to hanging triple bolt belay. Unpopular and vegetated.

7. 37m (M4) The Roof. New and old carrots lead to the roof and then up the pretty orange corner, which gets thinner as you go up. Hanging belay. (the Gledhill Bivvy).

8. 30m (M3) The Fang. Head R on decaying carrots then up steep crack past the Fang and beyond. Lots of steep awkward caving up to a final hand and fist crack. Take the big gear (up to #5) and watch out for the sharp edge at the start.

9. 40m (10 M2) Continue up crack to an ugly carrot and a slab move leading right to the base of an easy chimney (optional DBB) make sure to move the haul line left of the trees before entering the chimney. Then head up to big terrace with plaque. DBB is way around left.

10. 15m (M3) Steep offwidth (BD C4 #4 and #5s) with an initial seam on the left wall and a few dodgy carrots higher up. Finish on lookout.

HB

Wow.

1. 25m (23) As for Ozymandias.

2. 52m (28) As for Ozymandias.

3. 30m (25) As for Ozymandias. You are now on Big Grassy.

4. 35m (24) As for Ozymandias.

5. 30m (22) As for Ozymandias.

6. 40m (28) The roof and orange corner pitch. Follows bolts R to rejoin the line of Direct below the first big roof. Swing out through the roof and up gorgeous orange corner, then move R below Gledhill bivvy to belay on arete (as for Lord Gumtree).

7. 35m (22) Follow crack L and behind the Pontooth, then up more cracks (passing aid belay) to DBB at base of chimney.

8. 15m (10) Up the chimney to ledge with plaque. Can be linked with the next (or previous) pitch.

9. 20m (24) The offwidth corner. Take some big cams and go for it. Belay off a tourist (or use the handrail if there are no tourists about).

M9 but the ACA scale doesn't go that far.

Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.

Start: Start as for Ozy.

1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

2. 40m (- M5)

3. 40m (- M3)

4. 40m (- M4)

5. 25m (- M6) The puny flake out the massive roof. M7 if done clean.

6. 20m (- M5)

7. 30m (- M3) 27 if done as the finish to 'Lord Gumtree' free.

8. 15m (-) As for 'Lord Gumtree'.

Start: Start 6m below Big Grassy.

1. 30m (22)

2. 35m (22) Finish up Ozy or 'Free Blast'.

Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.

1. 22m (12 M3)

2. 25m (22)

3. 12m (20)

4. 12m (20) Then finish up 'Strange Ritual' or 'Lord Gumtree'.

Start: Start at the 7th belay of Ozy. This can be done as a rap-in-climb-out exercise, reached by a 55m abseil from the platform just W of Wilkinson's 'Lookout' (a tree anchor is well back and needs to be extended close to the edge if a 60m rope is to reach).

Start: Start at the top of p1 of Ozy.

1. 35m (- M7) As for 'Lord Gumtree' for 10m then the crack on the R.

2. 50m (- M7) Crack to rejoin 'Lord Gumtree'. 'Escape' off R up the long death scramble between Ozy Buttress and Mother Buttress, or finish up pitches 5-10 of 'Lord Gumtree'.

Start as for Ozy.

1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

2. 27m (- M3)

3. 18m (- M4)

4. 30m (- M6)

5. 40m (- M7)

6. 40m (- M5)

7. 40m (- M4)

8. 30m (- M3)

9. 40m (18) There is a bolted belay (not shown in topo) at the bush about 12m below the plaque, if you wish to split this pitch in two.

10. 15m (- M3) The obvious offwidth corner above the plaque.

HB

1. 24m 23

2. 52m 28

3. 25m 15

4. 40m 28

5. 30m 27

6. 35m 28

7. 40m 27

8. 40m 24

Brilliant hand jamming! Start 60 m below Wilkinsons Lookout on grassy ledge. Curving hand crack ....

Start: Start as for She.

1. 40m (21) As for She.

2. 25m (21) As for She.

3. 45m (23 M3)

4. 35m (22) As for the 4th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

5. 35m (23) As for 'Free Blast'.

6. 12m (20)

7. 15m (-) Finish up 'Strange Ritual' or Ozy Direct.

M9 but the ACA scale doesn't go that far. From the R side of Big Grassy head up the flake/seam/crack to join 'Lord Gumtree'.

Start: Start at Big Grassy.

1. 27m (-)

2. 18m (-)

3. 21m (-)

4. 40m (17) As for Führer p3.

5. 34m (21) As for Führer p4.

If and when the 2nd pitch gets added this will be a pretty amazing line, for those so inclined. In the meantime, presumably you instead exit L into 'Mussolini' or Il Duce.

Start: Start at the top of Führer Eliminate.

An excellent route on exquisite rock, following a finger crack in a corner.

From the intersection of the Manfield's and Reed's Lookout tracks (at the Young Galaxians boulder) head towards Wilkinson's Lookout. Continue past the two signs "Chalet" and "Wilkinson's Lookout" for 20m, looking for a faint track on the left. Follow this track down, via several cairns, until you arrive at a large cairn atop a flat buttress. Silk and Satin climbs the right side of this buttress (looking out), finishing on the sloping ledge.

Rap off the two large trees behind the cairn, or build your own anchor (keeping in mind that if you set an anchor high you'll need to rap far further than the length of the route).

Starts a few metres right of Silk and Satin. Climb the hand-crack, L at the ti-tree and up.

Technical stemming up obvious corner on the SW arete. Quite good, until it blanks out at the bolt ladder (easily aided).

Amazing, thin face climbing up the middle of the North face of the pinnacle. 7 FH's, 1 BR. Rap down the South face.

Start as for Heaven on a Stick.

1. The hand crack to sling a pinnacle to belay.

2. (crux). Slab past 2BRs

Fix a rope from the top of the first abseil in order to exit the route. From the chain at the top of the slab immediately behind (west) of the top of Queen Victoria pinnacle, abseil 40m to reach the notch behind the pinnacle. From the outer edge of the ledge on the north side of the pinnacle, abseil from the chain, down the route to a grassy ledge. Up the finger crack and seam, past a peg runner (not in situ) to the base of a corner. Up this and slab to the chain (belay).

The prominent right-leaning crack-line with an orange right wall. 15m down L of the original (corner) start of Gaia.

1. 35m (crux). The crack.

2. 50m. The slab on the left.

Start from a small ledge (single bolt plus wire belay) below the small corner just up L from the original (corner) start of Gaia. Approach via a 50m abseil from gums close to the edge at the top of the buttress. Alternatively, abseil as per the access to Gaia.

1. 25m (crux). Up the elegant thin corner then the little roof to tea-tree.

2. 25m. Up with increasing ease.

Access via a 75-80m abseil from chains. This rap station is located beside a huge gum tree that leans out precariously (and no doubt is destined to fall into the depths of the gorge under its own weight), on the rim of the gorge around about 50m (?) around northward and down a little from the north edge of the top of the Queen Victoria buttress. This rap station can be used to access Wall to Wall, Send out for More Pizza, Gaia, White Knuckle Days and Statute of Limitations. The abseil can be broken into two, utilising the double bolt belay at the top of the first pitch of Gaia and WKD. There is now a bolted, independent, direct start to the original version of Gaia, as well as an extra bolt in the top of the first pitch, and two bolts in the top pitch. This new reincarnation provides a more even, sustained, but less death-defying route than the original. The first pitch, in particular, is one to savour. Start at the double hangers, mid-way between the original start of Gaia (in the corner) and White Knuckle Days.

1. 40m. 24. Up via 3 fixed hangers to the steepening. Continue on via 3 more fixed hangers through the crux section, then a high carrot and a more recently added higher fixed hanger to reach the new belay station up right on a blunt nose (the original belay was a further 8m or so up at the base of a short overhanging corner).

2. 35m. 21. Up to and up the overhanging corner crack (takes a few medium cams), then straight up via two bolt-protected bulges to the rap chains.

An exceptional first pitch - sustained, varied and continuously engaging. Access via 80m of abseiling from the top of Gaia (there is a new set of rap chains at the top showing the way. The 80m can be broken into two abseils by using the new belay station 40m down on Gaia, though a single 100m static rope makes life easier and provides a retreat option if required). Starts from the double carrot bolt belay between Gaia and Statute of Limitations (see p112 of the 2006 comprehensive Mt Buffalo guidebook).

1. 45m (24) Follow the bolt runners up the shallow closed corner, trending a little leftward at a couple of overlaps, to join into the top section of the first pitch of Gaia. A carrot bolt then another FH as for Gaia lead to a 2FH belay (up right from the last FH runner, on a blunt nose).

2. 35m (21) Step right and easily up to the base of a slightly overhanging open-book corner (the original belay spot for the top of Gaia’s first pitch). Up this (a few medium cams – gold, red, green and purple Camelots or equivalent - can be placed). Continue straight up via 2 FHs – one at each of two short, steep bulges - to belay at the abseil chains.

Access as for Gaia and White Knuckle Days or by using a sizeable gumtree a little further northward along the gorge rim. Best to leave an abseil rope in place in case retreat needs to be sounded. Start approx 20m right of Gaia (and a few metres around right from the start of White Knuckle days) at a 2BB.

1. 15m (21). Step right into thin crack and up to the belay ledge.

2. 35m (24). Out L (BR), then slab up following 4 more BRs, tending slightly rightward on some beautiful, if disconcertingly polished, rock. Belay off abseil tree.

The longest hard-ish route on the plateau, with pitch grades of 16, 23, 25 M1, 20, 21, 19, easy, 24, 22, 21, 22, ?, 13. Warning!!! Pitches 2 and 3 have a few dangerous (brittle) screw-in ring bolts which need to be replaced! Access: either scramble down, down, down Queen Vic Gully to the foot of the buttress, or make the many abseils required down the route (it the latter option is chosen, realise that a bit further than half way down there is notch behind the lower of the two pinnacles that are major features of this buttress. A short roped scramble/climb up the back of tis lower pinnacle is required before the abseiling can be continued down the route to the bottom). Route is best described and seen by the route description and photo-topo on pp112 and 113 respectively of the 2006 guidebook