Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 21st Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V4 | ★ Right side of history | 3m | |||||
V3 | ★ The east face | 3m | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Evan Stone | 4m | |||||
V2 | ★★ Lava lamp | 4m | |||||
V2 | ★ Lefty rock on | 2m | |||||
V2 | ★ Side pull | 3m | |||||
V1 | Ben's crack | 4m | |||||
Mon 21st Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Yoda's cave | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Dyno or do not dyno | 2m | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Swingers Club | 5m | |||||
V3 | ★★ Pan sweater | 5m | |||||
V1 | ★★ Yoda's mantle | 3m | |||||
Mon 21st Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Above the private sector | |||||||
V2 | ★★ No big deal | 4m | |||||
V2 | ★★ Wreath | 2m | |||||
V1 | ★★ Remembrance | 2m | |||||
V3 | ★★ Chock blocks | 3m | |||||
V2 | ★★ Remembrance Traverse | 3m | |||||
V2 | ★★ Stale Pringles | 4m | |||||
Tue 15th Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
18 | ★★ Death roof - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V2 | ★ Side pull - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | Average | ||||
V3 | ★★ Chicken Cacciatore - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 1m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
short but fun
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V2 | ★ The jug tunnel - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | Don't Bother | ||||
...if your're here anyway
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V1 | ★ The Hammer - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
V3 | ★ The Sickle - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
V4 | ★★ Tumble Jumble - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis, Volodymyr K | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
a few options down here and a bit too dark/pumped to complete any of them.
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V5 | ★★★ Blokus - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another splendid Gara surprise
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V3 | ★★ Three Ways - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
a little contrived but a fun challenge with a little bit of commitment for the top out
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V4 | ★★ Tumble Jumble (Cave problem) - with Ben Vincent, Volodymyr K | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It was dark and I thought I was already done but the psyche was high and the single shared headlight kept us going. I mostly did the very torquey crux moves through the roof a few times and fell off chopping the hand jam in on the right. Somewhat contrived but a really awesome cave roof problem.
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V3 | ★★ Three Ways - with Ben Vincent, Volodymyr K | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did the traverse a few times, first using foot looks at arm bars, second with crimps and third with underclings. Was pretty gassed generally by this stage and just couldn't pull onto the mantle.
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V5 | ★★★ Blokus - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis, Volodymyr K | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took a bit of figuring out but such a great problem. This thing is such a cool find despite us looking at this block before and dismissing it. Maybe 10 attempts and was close to leaving it for next time.
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Mon 14th Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders The holy land | |||||||
V1 | ★★ The western wall | 2m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did this thinking it was The Landing Zone because I didn’t have service and couldn’t remember what it looked like or where it was hahaha. Still a nice problem though
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Mon 14th Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Moonscape area | |||||||
V5 | ★★ The Landing Zone | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 14th Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Blokus | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Coupla goes, another gem for this area 🤙
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Sun 13th Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V3 | ★ The Sickle - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard start move and then balancy stand up and done
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V2 | ★ The jug tunnel - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | |||||
V2 V1 | ★ The Hammer - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
More or less a nice extension
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V2 | ★ Side pull - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I thought this would be really spicy but the left side is too close. A wild hard sit start could be possible off a little crystal pocket
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18 | ★★ Death roof - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This cleaned up fairly nicely into a pure crack problem without the features to the left which we thought would be needed. Could be a couple variants. All over in 2-3 moves but still good fun. Still not sure I'd want to solo boulder it.
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V3 | ★★ Chicken Cacciatore - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 1m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pure finger licking good chicken wings. Left side in, tried right side with no luck
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Tue 8th Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flashed to the last move, then couldn't figure that out. At. All
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Sun 30th Jan 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - with Michael Moore, Benji Dutaillis, Matt | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had 4 attempts and super happy to tick this again. Got through the offwidth part all 4 burns. Need to remember to take the fan during summer, still hot underground
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V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - with Brendan Heywood | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally got on the infamous fight club. Twas a lot of fun, managed to get the moves sorted.
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Mon 17th Jan 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Licorice allsorts | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
God that pinch is amazing. Had a few whirls but needs better condis. Will be back.
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V5 | ★★★ Evan Stone | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat
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Mon 17th Jan 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
How’s the fuaaken serenity!
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Sat 15th Jan 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Sleight of hand | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice
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V7 | ★★★ The West Face | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Yeeew
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V5 | ★★★ Evan Stone | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Repeat 🤙
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V0 | ★ Rubik's cube | 3m | |||||
Jimmy Jam
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Tue 4th Jan 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ The West Face | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crimps better than I pictured, feet worse than I pictured.
10/10 would punt again. Latched the last sloper a few times but not quite the good bit so no send today. |
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Thu 30th Dec 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections - with carol lee | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had a couple goes, hot and weak and my pads were fairly shredded and my left toe nail was whinging. Got to the first crux
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Sun 24th Oct 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V4 V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - with carol lee, Volodymyr K, Dom, Sophia | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First go didn't get off the ground. Second go did it static. Third go did it the smoothest I've even done it and eliminated the side pull in the middle for a really wide gaston power move probably V5. Classic
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V2 | ★★ Barbie Twist n Turn - with carol lee, Volodymyr K, Dom, Sophia | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Every single time I've jumped on Shawarma I've meant to jump on this and we just always get too frothy and forget. A nice little route and now a good warmup.
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Mon 4th Oct 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V1 | ★ Harry Potter's Scar - with carol lee | 3m | |||||
V4 | ★★ Red licorice - with carol lee | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I first tried this 11 years ago! We intended to just have a look at this and then chase some underground shade at FC, but then we thrashed ourselves for 4 hours straight, maybe 20 attempts? I was done numerous times: left hand was swollen from the jam and right tips were shredded, but psyche kept regrowing. In the end some new subtle beta eliminated the jam altogether. Super stoked and quite unexpected. Now it just needs a proper start on the underclings, the two moves into where I started will likely bump it up to around V6-7
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the stairs | |||||||
V1 | ★ Toppled tombstone - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 1m | ★ Good | ||||
V3 | Gritstone tombstone - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 3m | Don't Bother | ||||
nope ;-)
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V2 | ★ Dr Nefario - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 2m | ★ Good | ||||
V1 | ★★ Turbot St Exit - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V3 | ★ Riverside rejections - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 2m | ★ Good | ||||
V4 V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One of Gara's best! Sick send train arvo ;-)
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V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A sweet find, creek side in the shade complete with a couple of alternate finishes!
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V1 | ★★ Turbot St Exit - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V4 V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - with carol lee, Ben Vincent | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I was pretty smashed by this stage but nothing like a bit of peer pressure and some send-train to spike the psyche enough to forget how much your fingers hurt.
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the stairs | |||||||
V1 | ★ Toppled tombstone - with carol lee, Ben Vincent | 1m | |||||
In my walking shoes
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V3 | ★ Riverside rejections - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 2m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
It's funny that this was the first thing we imagined on this rock, but then got so obsessed with the traverse we only did this today, and still only as an afterthought. But it is an obvious warmup for the full traverse, and is still a worthy problem in its own right.
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V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had a great session working this and got the start really dialed and was consistently doing all the traverse. Have also done the Benji finish but was just too juiced to link it all together. Lost a bit of skin. Felt just smashed afterwards.
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Sun 12th Sep 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections (Riverside project) - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A good find and quality problem!
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V3 | ★ Botanic gardens - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
V3 | ★ Botanic gardens - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 4m | |||||
V3 | ★★ Lost Lamington - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 4m | |||||
So I thought I'd done this before but it wasn't in the guide, so maybe a FA. I think its a better quality route than the thrutch fest
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V5 | ★★ Riverside reflections (Riverside project) - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is a sick little find, a hard gritty traverse / compression with sting in the tail
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Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - with Benji Dutaillis | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had a couple burns between Benji sorting it the 3rd ascent. Happy to get to the crux again twice but my tips were feeling a bit abused after the time off
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Sat 4th Sep 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the stairs | |||||||
V3 | Gritstone tombstone - with Benji Dutaillis | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
It's a quite cool problem but bordering on type 2 fun as its very gritty. The sit start will be exponentially harder.
A family of 9 stopped to watch and all the little kids yelled psych as I topped out |
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Thu 17th Jun 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Evan Stone | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Bruh, rad problem.
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Evan Stone - with Todd Free, Volodymyr K, Sophia, Adhna | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
V0 | ★ Rail - with Todd Free, Volodymyr K, Sophia, Adhna | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 1st May 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders The holy land | |||||||
VB | ★ Round rail - with Todd Free, Volodymyr K, Adhna, Sophia | 2m | ★ Good | ||||
V0 | ★ Prayer note crack - with Todd Free, Volodymyr K, Adhna, Sophia | 2m | |||||
V1 | ★★ The western wall - with Todd Free, Volodymyr K, Adhna, Sophia | 2m | |||||
V0 | ★ Ostrovsky - with Todd Free, Volodymyr K, Adhna, Sophia | 2m | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Pilgrimage - with Todd Free, Volodymyr K, Adhna, Sophia | 7m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis, Katrina | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
I surprised myself by remembering the beta! Plenty of psych from the crew and even the mighty Gara chipped in with some post-flood froth of it's own for the occassion.
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V7 | FA ★★★ 7th Rule of Fight Club - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis, Katrina | 7m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A high quality burly number! Had gotten close on previous attempts but managed to hang in there long enough this time, think more about my foot placements and push through it. Plenty of send-train psych and action out here today!
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V7 | ★★★ 7th Rule of Fight Club (Fight Club Extension) - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis, Katrina | 7m | |||||
Had one tired burn coming out of the crack, have some weird ideas about cutting sick and doing an inverted foot lock and topping out in reverse
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V0 | Warmup - with Katrina | 2m | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis, Katrina | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last session we wanted to scout this, but the bridge was 40cm under so we never got here. Now 2 days later the water had receded but we assumed it would be wet as the flood a week ago peaked roughly 4m above fight club! It's been almost 3 months since I've tried this, or anything at all over the rainy period. I pulled on, and could barely move and then grunted and sagged off feeling very weak.
Everyone else had a go, then I silently pulled on for the second go, and all the muscle memory returned and I flowed smoothly through the first crux, got the double inverted feet, plugged the next couple hands, then ended up doing a different sequence through the crimp to touched the nose to finish ... And then just like that it was done Almost anti-climatic and it's easy to forget how much of a battle it's been unlocking this, around 40-50 goes over 8 sessions but it feels like longer. New shoes really show how utterly trashed my old ones are, they are at least 16 years old, unsure how many resoles, and have served me faithfully. The Scarpas are dead! Long live the Scarpas! Later on I worked the extension a little, which Ben put up today as well |
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Fri 15th Jan 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Above the private sector | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ 50 calories in 50 seconds | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
I love this thing. It's such a grovel-fest every time and gives nothing. I had a bunch of attempts from the inverted sit start but no joy. I got the top clean on one attempt from the stand start. look forward to linking these
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Fri 8th Jan 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - with Brendan Heywood | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First proper session on this unique and burly piece. For much of the 3 hours we were here it was sprinkly mist above yet FC remained dry. Worked the start thanks to Skippy's hard earned beta and got myself into the jams which felt way more comfortable than the more marginal crux sequence. Elated to get the send but dampened a little given Skippy was all but on the send train before pulling up just short after a very solid session.
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V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - with Ben Vincent | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another misty drizzly day, early start with 5 pads and a rope not sure what we'd do and FC was in good condition. A wicked super session, after only one or two attempts and I was back to my furthest point again - and for all the other attempts I don't think I ever didn't get back to this point, the first crux is now dialed. After Ben showed the way I got on just after the first crux and linked all the remaining moves to the nose-twiddle finish on my first go, and after that I thought I had it in the bag as I could now do every move. Tried linking it from the start, and then again and again, with longer breaks and more prep between them slowly mangling my fists and ankles and draining the energy reserves. After one really long rest refuel and complete re-tape I had one last burn and gave it everything, and got further than ever, only 3 moves from the finish, but was totally spanked. Got some wild toe and shin cramps afterward. Heaps of hand, wrist and ankle bruises, right wrist is quite swollen now. Masochism as its finest
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Tue 29th Dec 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Solo mission with 3 pads and a portable fan. It started sprinkling as I packed the car and I drove through a couple showers. The rock was still good and had a great sess with more than a dozen burns and another foot of progress. Past the crux (first?) and into decent fist jam rest and inverted. Another 2 foot of slightly flaring hands and fists remains. The sky opened as I packed up and I walked out in drenching rain.
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Sat 26th Dec 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Evan Stone - with Benji Dutaillis, Jonny | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A lot of debris at the moment, needs another good excavation. Got it second go but the stand start takes out the hardest move.
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V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - with Benji Dutaillis, Jonny | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another scout just to see how spoogy it was, totally mint so shoe'd up and ended up progressing to a new hight point all the way to the fist jam and then tenuously matched. Was right on the index knuckle, if I'd sunk it just an inch deeper I think it would have been done!?
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Sat 26th Dec 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||||
V4 V5 | ★★★ Shawarma - with Benji Dutaillis, Jonny | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
After the uninspired start to the day, I was stoked to jump on and statically move through the crux first go and essentially fell of the top in surprise. Got it very smoothly on 3rd go
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Sun 20th Dec 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club (Flight club) - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 5m | |||||
Finally got a tickle on this thing before the trickles got intense and the rock soaked.
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Sun 20th Dec 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Above the private sector | |||||||
24 | ★★★ The Elver Escape - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Had one go at this as it started spitting and slowly fell away in no-mans land. Good to see Benji get oh so close.
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V5 | ★★★ 50 calories in 50 seconds - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
You get your moneys worth on this one. This grovel fest is an instant classic. Best attempt was my first go. Knee bars, stacked hands, shoulder jams, balancy feet, inverted moves and it's only 3m tall!
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V2 | ★★ Stale Pringles - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 20th Dec 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Yoda's cave | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Dagobah - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 10m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Such a good number to bring on the burn. I find this a pretty hard route to flash as a warm-up cause of the intense flash pump. Got it on my 4th attempt and again on the 5th
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V1 | ★★ Yoda's mantle - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A little mantle practice in-between Dagobah runs.
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Sun 20th Dec 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | |||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Fight Club - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
An optimistic scouting missing turned into an attempt. It started sprinkling again by the time we got setup and only 1 proper burn, carefully stepping on the dry bits, but after a couple goes we were just sitting in the drizzle with soggy pads.
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