Routes in Glasshouse Mountains

Start: Just left of previous climb.

ACCESS: The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of TA. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb. Go past the small tree and under the potential crack climb containing a precarious fridge sized block.

The climb starts towards the far left and heads up to the arete. There are several places where you will need to avoid potential loose rock, finding a mix of reasonable and good placements. This pitch will clean up well eventually but be careful as there is potential for pulling rocks onto your belayer. Work your way over the top to a double bolt anchor. Rap from here or continue up Oppression Obsession. A 70m rope will just reach the ground or you can rap down the ramp to the right to the first achors of oppression obsession.

From Lego Pillar scramble directly up low angle bushy rock to a ledge. The real climb starts here. Few slightly overhanging moves will take you to easier terrain. Scary semi-detached blocks abound on this route making gear placing a real gamble. This climb is currently top-rope only. Anchors on the summit are made from a collection of many small trees.

Start 20m right of Adventure Gardeners

Scramble up to right hand side of vegetated ledge, then scramble left to slab with lots of peeled flakes.

Named in honor of Mr Ousbys massive bruised buttocks obtained from a 8 meter fall on the first attempt at the route. Lovely purple blue and yellow. A fantastic effort by Hamish in establishing this route ground up on sight, placing bolts whilst hanging on for life. Destined to be a mega classic test route. Can be a bit run out in places.

1.55m Start is a very tenuous slab so it may be best to stick clip the first bolt.

Smear and edge up slab always trending slightly left. Passing 5 bolts to DB belay.

2 40m

Continue up and left of vegetation to steepening buttress above, move diagonally left past bolt then up crack and corner till able to step left to DB belay

3 55m

Climb right over crack to gain slab on steep buttress. Place a cam blindly in crack on left. Get your belayer to confirm that it is placed well.(this will let you know if you are good friends.) Up wards passing 4 bolts and gear till able to pull into cave at end of pitch. Room for 2 to bivy if your belayer proved there friendship earlier!

4 10m

Its all over. (Well sort of )

Out of cave hand traverse left for a few moves. Then up easily on loose shattered blocks.

Bush bash up hill till tourist track is met at right side of organ pipes then down the horror of the tourist track fielding questions all the way back to car

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 32m 13 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge. Ascend diagonally up & to the right for 4m on the leftside of crevice/crack, cross over the crack, then ascend on small holds & ledges immediately to the right of the crack (to right of overhang). Straight up trending right. Up front of nose until level with large Ironwood tree (?) in gully to the left of nose.

From here, exit up & right, across vegetated ledges above Carborundum Chimney to access the Caves Route below Trojan.

Start as for Satan Spawn. Up wall, diagonally R past FH to scoop. Up wall above (SLCDs/wires) to a stance and BR. A reach move to small crack (SLCD) and slab up to the L to chain belay of SS.

Start 2m L of 'Bourgeois Bullshitter'. A stonking line which is being loved to death. Pretty soon the holds will be worn off. Boulder to a high RB, then a hard move follows. Once on the small ledge, clip an RB then fire up the demanding face past another 2 RBs. Bridge above the last RB for 5m (natural pro) to ledge and anchors. Rap off.

Original carrot bolts replaced with ring bolts December 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start: 2m left of Super Size Me (carroted route), below the right facing corner. Nice, well protected face climbing. Up face, to first u-bolt out left, the up corner crack, passing 2 more u-bolts, chains up left, above Shanny.

Climb Maponus' first pitch but instead of heading left to The Court Jester's anchor continue directly up past three FH's to the anchor. Adds a lot more pump and air.

Start: about 275m right of hiker's track. Possibly still marked with "GI" after 55 years?

Climb up to 2 small ledges, then delicate moves up to a ledge at the base of a corner. Up using potholes, then thin wall and layback flake lead to easy slab & tree belay (still there 55yrs later?)

Lhotse Flake (grade 15) - 10 pitches to summit South West Shoulder of Beerwah starting at the bottom of No Honk at Waynes World. Good protection, trad route, solid rock, getting steeper towards top, set of cams, larger hexs, nuts, rap from anywhere on a single 60, knotted ends a must, rope stretch required rapping lower 35m pitches.

1. 35m (14/15 ) Start at the initials NH, bottom of No Honk, some trad placements to join Extreme Close Up, half a dozen bolts (plates needed), rusty rap chains at 35m

2. 35m (14/15) 2nd pitch of No Honk, mixed trad with 3 or 4 bolts (plates needed) to chains at 35m

3. 30m (10) Up to terrace then left through small roof, easy going low angle straight up to DBB, dodgey shrubs for pro if required.

4. 30m (10) Easy going straight up to DBB, more dodgey shrubs for pro if required.

5. 30m (10) Out of the shrubbery on cleaner rock now, slightly left trending crackline, very grippy slab to DBB.

6. 30m (12) Straight up past left facing corner with some vegetation to DBB alcove at the base of the obvious 30m high flake (right facing corner)

7. 30m (14) Up into the right facing corner of the big flake, cams in the crackline all the way, smaller cams towards top, DBB beyond top of crackline

8. 30m (15) Getting steeper now, up through alcove/chimney then ledges and slightly left past a lone hanger (handy if wet) then DBB above on face, small ledge stance.

9. 30m (15) Cruxy move right off belay onto block 0.1 cam possible, up a bit to mid size bomber cams in crack, continue up obvious crack/runnel, then a satisfying hex placement (big one), up under headwall, a hanger on the face out left protects committing overhanging mantle move, then easy thru alcove and face to DBB, a few meters below solid little gum at the lip of the terrace, good ledge/lookout here right on the top of the main wall. Pack up the rope, scramble diagonally up left 50m heading for Shell Rock via chimney/gully to Shell Rock.

10. 25m (14) Rope up on the final pitch above Shell Rock, cams, nuts, to chains on the hollow lava tube at 25m.

Pack up gear, follow the well worn track about 50m to the western shoulder along the ridge towards the knob, then over slabs to hook up with the tourist track.

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the dead tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 35m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber. You can rap off with one 80m rope, otherwise join two ropes, or scramble another 5 meters to the summit and walk off.

1. 28m (5 bolts). As for Sunburnt Buttress.

2. 26m (6 bolts). Step right from DBB and up past several bolts and optional small cam and hidden wire out left (extend). Step right to clip another bolt then up trending slightly to the left to finish on ledge next to bush. DBB.

3. 45m (12 bolts). Step right from belay and head straight up past 3 FH's, stepping left around the arete at the third. Continue up arete passing assorted trad placements and bolts, finishing at "The Perch" belay.

Pitch 3 can be abseiled on a single 80m rope, otherwise you'll need to join two 50 or 60m ropes to abseil pitch 3.

The far left route on the pillar on left edge of crag. Boulder start to crack, up this to stance. Climb the face above past FH to juggy top. Tree belay. Dirty at the start.

Start 15m L of 'Srama'. The cracky weakness up the middle of the left most piece of climbable wall. Meow!

Marked 'STB'. Start at the thin corner 2m L of 'Feargrounds For Insanity'. Up corner with suspect pro. Needs cleaning in the crack. Hard for the grade.

Start: 3m Left of Gambier I - possibly still initialled "GII" after 55yrs?

Up 3-4m to base of crack, delicate moves up to potholes, follow crack up 6m to easy slab & tree belay (still there, 55yrs later?).

Look for the prominent jug on ITOS, about 6-7m up, and start 4m right of this. Or, alternatively, look for a prominent block, sticking out 15cm, about 10-12m up, the route starts below & right of this and heads up through an inverted "v" & much welcome gear. From the inverted "v", head left, towards the block (more gear), then keep trending slightly left, to ITOS anchors at the grass tuft above.

Start 3m L of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "CS".

Easy climbing with trad protection following the crack until it runs out about halfway up. More difficult climbing in the second half protected by 2 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start 1m R of 'Sticky Fingers'. Up slab to shaft. Up this with awkward placements to ledge. Clip FH and blast through bulge. Continue up shaft on RP's, small wires and a FH to ledge. Finish directly up 'Hex Heaven's flared corner.

A direct second pitch to OOTBAITB.

1. 35m (22) Climb OOTBAITB's first pitch onto bird shit ledge watch the drag (natural belay #2 C4 handy).

2. 15m (25) The line then goes straight through the improbable V of the main roof and obvious slots in second half of roof (4 FH in roof). A well protected but airy lead which finishes with the leader 10m+ out from the belay. Very technical moves with stretchy bridging, steep roof moves and a few funky jams bring you to the exposed traverse out right to finish the pitch (#2 C3 handy in roof) (C4 set .3-3 for whole route. Some doubles handy). A bolted rap station on the ledge allows you to rap off here (2x 60m ropes)

3. 25m (23) Complete the third pitch of OOTBITB, the obvious crack a few metres right of the belay.

Start 1m right of 'Sticky Fingers'. Climb this to its belay tree or chains. Sling this and traverse 2m R onto arete. Up left side of this on good holds up limited protection to pillar. Finish up the namesake flaring corner to tree belay. A somewhat contrived offering since the addition of 'Six Sided Hell'.

This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of Tibros East Face and is a test piece of the mountain. This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split.

1. 30m (22) Climb rightwards across the diagonal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance, then up vertical crack to belay stance, parallel with the ear.

2. 25m (24) This pitch traverses right with little pro. To make things safer, place a high runner (5m) above pitch two's belay. The pitch moves rightward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner (#.5 with long sling so the second can practice the crux before unclipping ) in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Thread the pierced ear with a long sling (5m). Up the corner formed by the ear with small RP's, then into the roof with small cams and wires. Steep technical and wild climbing. DBB over lip.

3. 25m (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl on excellent rock to the summit.

Start: 6m L of Lancelot, at the "G".

A solid multipitch undertaking. Experienced Tibro climbers will enjoy the challenges Guenevere offers.

1. 15m (14) Nice wall climbing direct to Lancelot's DBB. Runout in the top half. Sling the jug at half height.

2. 30m (17) A double rack of aliens would reduce anxiety. L off DBB and up nice wall above for 10m to stance. Up R-trending ramp to bulgy steepening. Place gear in R-leaning crack, then up and L with some steep moves to the L side of a spiky bush ledge (which is 20m below the landmark bright orange corner). From ledge, go diagonally R up easy ramp (bad rope drag) for 10m to belay at base of 10m high, black scooped groove.

3. 45m (17) Carefully up the runout groove. Step L above groove and up slab to exciting chimney. Up this to TB on Clemency Terrace. Walk L 5m and rap from Clemency's tree-anchor (2x 50m raps). Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by the last three pitches of Clemency.

Marked 'SF'. A very hard start up the thin twin cracks leads to an easier top half. Pro is sparse in the lower section so careful placements are needed.

Scramble up rough terrain at far right of cliff. Probably shares top with chossmaster. Soloed, 2012

Start: Prometheus I.

There are a plethora of variants to Prometheus I, this one is an easy stroll up the mountain, to Cave 4. A tad thin on gear on p2.

1. 53m 4 - Same as Prometheus pitch 1,but continue left, following the natural weakness & gully, to a small dirt ledge & bushes. Trad belay.

2. 30m 4 - Continue left, following the line of weakness, then trend up & right, around the Steelwood trees, to a tree belay.

3. 40m 4 - From the belay, head for the right side of Cave 4, into the fern gully, then up the left side of this into Cave 4. Belay from Cave 4.

Now the second route at the crag; look for the prominent jug, about 6-7m up, up the double cracks, till they merge, straight up to grass tuft & anchors.

Start: about 5m left of ITOS, at a vague line of weakness, below the start of the overhanging blocks at the top. Easy climbing with spaced gear. Up to DBB & rap.

Up the small slab 4m left of Icehouse to the crack with good protection to the tree ledge with belay chains.

Same start as for Raptures first pitch then following the prominent crack rightwards to Trojans belay. Great pro and jams.

Tough little unit. Starts 2m right of Kitch. Thin and technical climbing past two FHs to stance. #1 Friend or yellow Alien to chains.

Start 6m R of Guenevere. Marked 'L'. Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next.

1. 20m (14) - Up for 10m to first vegetated ledge. If you want to belay here, walk to far left of this ledge to find a good DBB, otherwise link this pitch with the next (better).

2. 30m (16) - Walk all the way back to the right end of the belay ledge. Up with some difficulty to a bowl. Keep climbing up and right aiming for the diagonal vegetated ledge above. Clip peg before last headwall and climb up this to base of ledge. Good DBB.

3. 25m (18) - Climb up onto block on far right of ledge and climb straight up slab to a nice, very slabby right-facing corner. Clip peg and traverse right under blocks to another peg. Climb straight up the wall above (crux) with scant protection to slab. Up and right to easy slab which ends in an easy corner and peg belay.

4. 15m (15) - Straight up corner with good pro to belay at base of pitch 7 of Dreadnought (left-facing corner crack). To reach the Halfway House area and the rap tree on Clemency Terrace, traverse 30-40m left on slabby ground. Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by continuing up Dreadnought.

Marked 'UVC'. Sunscreen optional. The obvious angled off-width on the right side of the leaning pillar. Good pro and sustained climbing all the way to a tree belay.

Start: 3m right of the original start. Up the low angled arete, passing 2 BRs to a solid horizontal move back left, into the original line, then up to chains.

An adventurous route through unique and interesting terrain. Gets a star for the standout position of the line but loses some for rock quality. Start from the spooky ledge & climb inside the arching crack, the Belly of the Beast.

1. 20m (13) Climb up to the base of a arching crack and chimney up into the cave past a cluster of bail tat. Belay in cave near purple sling.

2. 30m (16) Up wall/crack then keep moving up the ramp along the cave. Carefully up corner crack and belay after topping corner.

3. 30m (15) Climb into next lip, boulder out the right side of the cave onto Tibro juggy slab, proceed up and left to the orange rock cave as for Overexposed.

4. 40m (16) Up corner in cave passing 2 PRs, on ledge continue up and left diagonally following broken crack system. Finish the pitch at the grassy gully. Typical tibro slab trad, small broken microcracks. Deserves an R .

Option to continue up overexposed by going right after the corner in cave on pitch 4. Highly recommended due to the free solo headspace provided by the lack of gear during the fourth pitch

First route done here and was bolted on lead. Carrots. Up line of pockets to overhang with small cam and wire then on to chains.

ACCESS: To locate the base of this climb head left of Slider gully for approx 50m till you hit the obvious inlet in rock. Solo up rock and scrub for 20m till you hit the base of the wall . An obvious belay stance can be found to the LHS of this position. Look for the first hanger about 5m up.

RACK:

• Set of BD Camalot C3’s

• Set of Camalot .3 – 3

• 6 extender draws (1 x 120mm sling recommended)

• 4 normal draws

• Set of stoppers and RP’s

About: The route is a mixed adventure climb that was inspired by 2 mates craving some good old fashioned Tibro adventure. It was started in 2012 and finished in 2014 with 5 hangers and 4 single bolt belays. The climb was completed after the wild fires that swept through Tibro in 2014.

This is not a sport climb and should only be attempted by experienced climbers who climb solid at the grade, as there are long run-outs between hangers. Some placements are obvious and others are hard to find but they are there. Retreat will be difficult albeit doable after pitch 3 but you will have to leave gear behind. 2 x 60m ropes are recommended for retreat. The climb is now equipped with 14 Hangers and 4 DBB’s

Pitch 1 – 17R – (45m Mixed) Up for 2 hangers to awkward mantle then keep trending right chasing 2 more hangers. Look for gear past the last hanger then follow the left trending gully to bomber belay. Extenders are a must. Leader should be confident at the grade. First 30m originally led with bomber RP’s and flaring cam placements by Mark. A truly inspired lead!

Pitch 2 – 14R (25m Trad) Step right off the belay and look for cam placement on your right. Move up and sling block, then head right around the arete. Committing moves to establish yourself in the obvious groove. Up another 15m on interesting ground to DBB at bottom of headwall.

Pitch 3 – 17 – (30m Mixed) Straight up off the belay, clip 2 hangers to stance under bulge. Place red C3 and .4 around corner. Funky moves for 4m to the right, clip bolt then straight up on great moves and exposure to DBB.

Pitch 4 12 (30m Trad) A bush bashers delight! Take a scramble amongst Queensland's native flora straight up from belay on easy ground. Take care of how your rope runs and carefully negotiate your way to the wall. Fantastic moves up rock for another 10 meters to natural belay.

Pitch 5 - 14R (40m Mixed) Absolute class! Great rock and excellent climbing. Aiming for the prominent buttress near the summit, follow the line of weakness off the belay trending right. Find 2 hangers. Bust right through tree line and climb arete being mindful of choss. Climb as high as you can then move left off the arete avoiding obvious loose rock above. Up another 10m. DBB found here.

Pitch 6 – 17R (36m Mixed) Up easy ground and left on to vegetated ledge. Climb LHS of ledge placing small stopper, then committing moves to distant hanger (Original 7th pitch Belay). A C3 Yellow can be found a couple of meters above hanger then daunting moves from whipperville to top of bulge where you will find another hanger. Chase 2 more hangers on runout ground to DBB.

Pitch 7 – (15 - 25m Trad) Choose your own adventure! Bomber .4 2m up from belay then tricky moves to ledge. Original line goes to the left hand side of buttress whilst variant goes to the right. Choose either way and finish on top of the buttress. Beware the choss on top!

Direct Finish (19 Trad): Straight up the middle of the buttress on hand jams! WARNING: There is an obvious block at the start of the buttress that looks disconnected and has not been fully tested. Be extremely careful if you choose to go this way.

Walk left for 20m to meet tourist track near the summit.

FFA: Jay MacGechan, Mark Kingston 2014.

RHS Variant: Matt Hunter, Jay MacGechan 2017

Direct Finish: Jay MacGechan, Matt Hunter 2017

Marked 'A'. Just L of 'Sticky Fingers' at the obvious flared chimney. Bridge smooth chimney with good (albeit small) pro in the R crack to the ledge with tree and bolted anchor or continue up 'Hex Heaven'.

The first route bolted at Shadow Glen and named after the housing estate that was bulldozed into the base of Ngungun that year. Starts 2m right of Sweet Flower Girl. A technical wake-up call. Jug up to FH. Hard moves lead to 2nd FH. Traverse left and up to big jug. Slam in #2 Friend behind jug and climb up to crack (cam). Traverse right and up to chains.

Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.

Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.

1. 50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.

2. 20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.

3. 10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).

4. 40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.

5. 35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.

6. 20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.

7. 50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.

8. 30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.

9. 30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.

10. 20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.

11. 40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.

12. 30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit

Start 5m left of 'Prehistoric Dog Hueco Variant'. Weave up the slab on big jugs finding the least line of resistance to ledge then finish directly up to DBB. Bold with only minimal pro.

Marked 'A'. The enjoyable scramble on small broken pillars and bush at the far left of the main wall. Follows the exposed crest trending right across the tops of the other climbs for an exposed finish to the summit of Ngungun.

Start: 7m left (down the slope) from Two And A Half Squirts, the trad line LHS of the bulge. Good moves on solid, but small trad gear, passing one BR near top, to chains.

The easy climb up the slabby back of 'Owl Pillar' starting off the ledge just left of Midnight Makeout.

Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires.

This is an old school grade 10, runout, with poor gear in the lower half, treat it as a 12. Start:

1. 35m 10 Roughly 10m left of WAD, at the shallow, right facing corner & cracked block. Up to this, offering some gear, then up slab above on scant gear, to blocks & vegetation, through this, up slab to headwall & continue through the roof, then trend right to a small ledge & tree belay (still there? 52yrs later?).

2. 45m 10 Up through roof & onto slab above & easier territory (no indication given as to belay options here).

1. 25m (14) Also bolted on lead. Carrots. Same first bolt as 'Megga Happy Ending' then head left to hidden bolt, sling horn and place gear (small cams and wires) under overhang, pass this obstacle to good (medium) cam and on to chains. 2 bolts + trad.

2. -m (-) project...

From the ledge above Neil's Access Route, aim for the huge boulder, then up rh side of this.

Marked 'B'.

1. 15m (10) Climb the easy twin grooves to the L of 'Angie' to tree belay.

2. 30m (18) Up onto top of short pillar, then fire directly up the face above with minimal protection until the juggy face crack is reached. Climb this great crack line to the top and tree belay.

First two bolts of Suburban Sprawl then head right to finish up Domestos. First lead ascent is unknown - but has been done several times.

Starts at the base of Dreadnought's eighth pitch.

1. 55m (18 crux) - Instead of climbing left into the groove, veer right and climb low-angle slab to stance (poor gear - green Alien, #3 Peenut). Hard layaway rock over to good crimp. More committing moves with danger of a ledge fall, then good jug. Crack above takes med cams. Moderately up good slab to a peg in pocket. Hard pulls on good holds through bulge to crack (med-large cams). Follow easing line up intermittent crack to belay on ledge (peg, cam, wires).

2. 20m (10) - Veer left up slab to join original.

Marked 'RS'. Well named. Easy groove at far R of crag.

Start: Right of Just Juice, below the crack/slab. Tricky move up to a jug, then gear up to a stance & BR, past this, with good gear following, then take the easiest route to the top.

Start directly opposite 'Midnight Makeout' on 'Owl Pillar'.

Up juggy groove then slab to finish at ledge.

A varied steep adventure on classic Tibro features.

1. 20m Climb the initial 8 to 10 meters of Out of the Blue... but stop before it traverses right. Instead go left for a few meters and clip a FH (long sling). Climb out roof past 3 more FHs to lip, from lip follow FHs up steep wall to the right eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. DBB.

2. (Project) Heading out left and up. Bolting unfinished.

The Martian Multipitch. 320m grade 17 50m or so east from right end of Wayne's World, a few metres past a very large burned tree stump at a low point adjacent to the rock apron, as the track gradient starts to rise but before the big left facing corner. This is a clean and safe route to the top of the western shoulder ideal for beginners but long enough to engage the experience climber for a relaxing day out, with terrific top out pitches, all with bolted belays. Rock is great all the way. A set of cams up to #4, nuts and hexes. 10 draws. Slings and extenders. FA: R. Denny and C. Brazzelli

1. 48m (15) 5 m east from the burned tree base before the corner end of the wall. Up on easy ramp for 20m then trending left around a steep section. A steeper move around a block and up to a shady ledge.

2. 28m (13) Walk left and up to another nearby ledge. Climb the rampy shallow corner trending slightly left to a tree beside a detached big block. Belay behind tree.

3. 30m (14) Step right and up from belay and climb up to lip on featured slab. ( The 90 degree left traversing line is for The Martian Moon Flake Variant ). Trend slight left with some bold sections to belay on ledge behind gum trees.

4. 31m (13) Thin moves up slab, sling small trees on the left and gear, above small terrace, great featured rock straight up.

5. 30m (11) Climb straight up on grippy and featured low angle slab, follow small crack line with pro to belay. Good rock, typical Beerwah volcanic features. The next 2 pitches weave through the timbered middle slabs, take care to stay on route.

6. 30m (13) From belay, up and trending right on low angle slabs (grade 4), sling trees and find the way above to ledge/alcove behind shrubs. Up the chimney to belay above.

7. 30m (13) Up right facing corner from belay. Pitch is trending slightly left and stays on clean rock. Scramble to belay above.

8. 30m (15) Up to bushy terrace and walk 10m left to base of chimney. Climb chimney with pro options (or arete on the left) to left of rooflet. Up past shrubbery contouring left, jam fingers behind a polished detached cruxy block. Straight up good pro, final approach to belay from below left, has hidden pro. Beware of some minor rope drag on this pitch, use long extenders. NOTE: if rapping this pitch, it is necessary to stay right (east) of the climbing line on the rib and keep the rope well away from the corner to avoid getting it stuck in the flakes and cracks.

9. 30m (15) A slab pitch getting steeper, up left at first to meet the faint right trending crack system with small placements. Moss and lichen covering on this pitch, small holds, engaging, last section up past a small tree to a hanging belay. Terrific slab pitch.

10. Olympus Mons (crux) 30m (17) Climb the vertical crack system trending right, a few cruxy and thought provoking sections, good rock, to top out belay. Mind the stacked blocks at the top. Final 6m use right ramp to escape the overhanging chimney or climb directly.

1x60m rope sufficient to climb the route.

From top belay, scramble up the wide gully between the west shoulder and the knob. The arch is visible on the RHS. Once on the saddle ridge, descend and traverse contours towards the north-east to meet the tourist track. Try to stay on existing foot pad to avoid erosion.

Up onto broad ledge (FH) then go R to arête. Up passing many good stances and four more FH's. Finish as for MSTU with wires in obvious seam to chain.

Start: 5m down R of MSTU.

This route links up a combination of routes to form an exciting multi in it's own right.

1. 20m Climb Divergence then choose one of the following.

2. 35m Climb Tested Twistical (Left) 17 or Tested Twisticle (Right) 18

3. 18m Climb Caritas.

Exit: A 70m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps or scramble roped up from Caritas anchor to Halfway House and Rap down Clemency.

Start: About 4m left of Avenger, below the shallow right facing corner. No gear for 10m, then small gear in corner, up this to shallow roof, step onto slab, up slab to a stance & trad belay below the main roofs about 15m up. From here, traverse 15m left to small tree & rap station.

The obvious crack 5m left of Classic Gas where the track meets the rock, just above the "rings of shame". Up the crack with good pro to the ledge. Sling the pillar on the far left with care and belay. Rap from the sling.

Dangerous and dirty. Start 2m right of Suburban Sprawl. Up very thin crack (RPs) to slabby face above. Up this boldly with no pro to toilet-bowl stance then slab up to tree belay.

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill.

Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to anchor on steep wall.

From 'Slow Motion Grass Smoker' 's second BR, step 1m R and climb onto slab. Climb this for 6m then traverse R and up to 'Purple Pack' 's DBB. Very runout at top.

Marked 'DD'. Pocketed corner that gets progressively easier, with one small cam placement halfway up.

Start: 60m left, down the hill from Chocolates, near some large blocks on the ground.

1. 45m - 14 Take the thin line, towards a right facing corner, above a roof. Up steep twin seams on scant gear, to a grassy pocket, continue up on improving gear, then trend right as the angle eases, to a bolted belay below the prominent roof.

2. 50 19 - Crux move right off the belay, into the corner above, following 3 FHs, to a good stance, then gear placements (left), up slab over loose flakes, trending left, to DBB.

3. 50m - Straight up the slab, look for a thin crack & the only gear on this pitch, up the comparatively easy slab to a large terrace & TB. NB: the rap slings are probably worn: take one or two with & abseil back down the route.

Start 5m R of 'Breakaway'.

Up wide crack then trend L up slab to finish as per 'Breakaway'.

This is the easy alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney, which, minus the original log, is pretty stiff. Most rock climbers & seasoned bush walkers will choose to climb this unroped, whilst this description is aimed at those roped ascents.

1. 17m 4 Start at the "CR" painted on the rock: climb trending right past the vegetation, then directly up to the DBB belay. A short pitch which provides the opportunity to track anyone you are belaying, or abseil back down & belay them on TR.

   ★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route Pitch 1

2. 37m 4 Continue up the ledges, mounting trees, up to the big shoulder & DBB.

3. 36m 4 Head up right from the belay, then left up the concave scoop, to a small ledge with a tree on it, from here, head up the steep, exposed section right to a natural belay ledge & a single clip biner on chains.

4. 48m Unroped scramble up through Cave 1, then left (facing the cliff), to the lh side & belay tree.

5. 49m 4 Scramble carefully over the rock & along the narrow precipitous ledge to the end, then right up the rock slab to the anchors (2 sets of anchors, the higher set being the better for roped parties.)

6. 60m 1 Unroped scramble up the rock terrace, and follow the well beaten path through the scrub to the base of the slab.

7. 55m 4 Climb the slab, directly in front of where the path meets it, to a concave scoop in the rock, from here, head out left delicately on the 45° slab & angle up right to a natural belay ledge

   ★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route alternative

   & DBB.

8. 37m 2 Scamble across the sloping ledge, then up the small cliff face at the end to the shoulder & rejoin the original Caves Route.

9. 155m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, through bush & up rock ledges to meet the West Track.

The obvious right trending line, to the right of Out Of The Blue. Follow shallow crack system and boulder to the ledge aka The Morgue.