Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
24 | ★★ Double Shot Espresso | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Aug 2017 | ||||
The first half is really good face climbing. Second half and crux is pinch city. Loose rock galore keeps you on track and stops you venturing too far left around the arete.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★ Totemic Arete
- with
Liz
1
lead by
Liz
2
lead by
Anthony
| 65m, 21 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Aug 2017 | ||||
The slab on the first pitch was pretty nice. Pitch 2 had awesome exposure and some tricky moves.
|
|||||||||
24 | ★★ Double Shot Espresso | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Aug 2017 | ||||
Pumpy moves after the dicky traverse. Took 1 fall and pulled off a brick sized hold near the top that got the heart pumping. All in a days work at Dreamtime,
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Anthony Pattison "The Birthday Barrista" Closed Project (Anthony Pattison ) - with Liz | 23m, 16 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Aug 2017 | ||||
Difficult start, had to have a take at the first bolt. Some pretty cool moves and side clings all the way to the anchor.
|
|||||||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy - with Liz | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2017 | ||||
19 | ★★ Not Drowning Waving - with Liz | 26m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2017 | ||||
21 | Man Overboard - with Liz | 24m, 12 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2017 | ||||
Easy after climbing past the roof
|
|||||||||
24 | ★★ Double Shot Espresso | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2017 | ||||
After a couple of false starts and a good rest in the middle made it clean.
|
|||||||||
22 | ★★ Werpil - with Liz | 25m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | ||||
1st bolt a bit high but otherwise a great climb, sustained.
|
|||||||||
25 | Thor | 25m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | Don't Bother | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | ||||
It looked loose from the ground and I was right. Took 2 falls due to pulling off holds. Bailed out.
|
|||||||||
19 | ★★ Archies Arete - with Liz | 35m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | ||||
25 | ★★ Ring of Fire Dawn | 28m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | ||||
Dogged my way up to the 3rd draw. Skipped a bit I couldn't do then bailed when it rained.
|
|||||||||
18 | ★ 234 Duck! - with Liz | 14m, 7 | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | ||||
21 20 | ★★ Wha Wha Knee - with Liz | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | ||||
Challenging.
|
|||||||||
22 | ★★ Werpil - with nick | 25m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Aug 2017 | ||||
Great position good rock for the area. Technical climbing with a pump which just keeps on giving.
|
|||||||||
17 | Jardwadjali - with nick | 130m | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Sun 13th Aug 2017 | ||||
The quickest way to get to the squash court thats all lm going to say !
|
|||||||||
17 | ★ Short Memory | 25m, 13 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Tue 20th Aug 2013 | ||||
18 | ★★ The Perfect Extraction | 40m, 18 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sun 20th Aug 2017 | ||||
16 | ★★ Songline | 32m, 10 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sun 20th Aug 2017 | ||||
16 | ★★ Songline - with Mike Rockell | 32m, 10 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2017 | ||||
19 | ★★ Into the Badlands - with greg | 30m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Jul 2018 | ||||
Great climbing at the grade .
|
|||||||||
18 | ★★ The Perfect Extraction | 40m, 18 | South-Eastern Grampians | Sun 30th Aug 2015 | |||||
16 | ★★ White Woman - with Lewis | 35m | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th May 2015 | ||||
7 | ★ Prince Albert - with Lewis | 12m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy - with Lewis | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||||
15 | ★ The Big Easy - with Lewis | 42m, 17 | South-Eastern Grampians | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||||
7 | ★ Prince Albert - with Tom Carson, evans33 | 12m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | Don't Bother | Sun 24th Feb 2019 | ||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy - with Tom Carson, evans33 | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sun 24th Feb 2019 | ||||
20 | ★★ Fractured Baculum - with evans33 | 17m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Feb 2019 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Red Chilli Nights - with Tom Carson | 28m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Feb 2019 | ||||
21 | ★★ Gulgurn Manja | 40m, 20 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th Feb 2016 | ||||
The guidebook states 13 ring bolts but I think it was 18. Hopefully that is amended in the new guidebook.
|
|||||||||
24 | ★★ Double Shot Espresso - with Bodin Pollard | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st May 2016 | ||||
End of the day shot just to feel the holds. Nearly got it on sight and frankly, this is the best route around here. Solid rock the entire way, genuine gymnastic climbing movement down low, then pump and arm management for the next 20m on good quality rock. Loved it. 3 stars.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★ The Perfect Extraction - with Bodin Pollard | 40m, 18 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st May 2016 | ||||
Pretty soft for the grade ... felt more like 16 or 17 but enjoyable climbing nonetheless
|
|||||||||
23 | ★★ Anthony Pattison "The Birthday Barrista" Closed Project (Anthony Pattison) - with Bodin Pollard | 23m, 16 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st May 2016 | ||||
Sat on the first bolt so not strictly a legitimate ascent, but otherwise onsight. This is a really good route as well - not quite as good as Double Shot Espresso to its right, but nonetheless a great excursion.
All about pump management up high, just don't go too far left because the grey rock around the corner is very loose and life-threateningly dangerous for inattentive belayers / spectators. Thank-you to the developers of this area for a fantastic day. 23 is the right grade for this area |
|||||||||
22 | ★★ Dreaming of Reconciliation - with Bodin Pollard | 39m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st May 2016 | ||||
Literally one hard move from the 2nd to 3rd bolt - and it isn't actually that hard. This feels about 2-3 grades easier than the Birthday Barrista, so not sure why they are given the same grade (here at least), but still fun !
Did this in the rain which made things a bit exciting. Stay low on the traverse near the roof at the top to avoid some very dodgy rock. Bo cleaned up a few hundred kilograms of loose rock near the top when he followed me up it so it continues to get cleaner and cleaner. |
|||||||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jun 2018 | ||||
7 | ★ Prince Albert | 12m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sun 24th Jun 2018 | ||||
21 | Man Overboard | 24m, 12 | South-Eastern Grampians | Fri 4th Oct 2013 | |||||
18 | ★★ The Perfect Extraction | 40m, 18 | South-Eastern Grampians | Fri 4th Oct 2013 | |||||
Finishes with a lot of loose rocks/holds. Bring Helmet for belayer!
|
|||||||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | Fri 4th Oct 2013 | |||||
18 17 | ★ Short Memory | 25m, 13 | South-Eastern Grampians | Fri 4th Oct 2013 | |||||
Not a Sport but mixed after the 12FH! Otherwise 10m run-out to the last bolt....
|
|||||||||
7 | ★ Prince Albert | 12m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | Fri 4th Oct 2013 | |||||
20 | ★★ Wha Wha Knee | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | Fri 4th Oct 2013 | |||||
19 | ★★ Not Drowning Waving | 26m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | |||||
20 18 | ★ 234 Duck! | 14m, 7 | South-Eastern Grampians | Mon 7th Oct 2013 | |||||
21 | R.E.M. | 40m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||||
22 | ★★ Dreaming of Reconciliation | 39m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||||
19 | ★★ The Apology | 50m | South-Eastern Grampians | Sun 3rd Aug 2014 | |||||
18 | ★ The Tubster | 30m, 6 | South-Eastern Grampians | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||||
19 | ★★ Archies Arete | 35m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | Mon 14th Oct 2013 | |||||
21 | ★★ Gulgurn Manja | 40m, 20 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th Oct 2014 | ||||
Pretty fun!
|
|||||||||
15 | ★ The Big Easy | 42m, 17 | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Sat 18th Oct 2014 | ||||
21 | Princess Slayer | 60m | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Sat 18th Oct 2014 | ||||
You need 19draws for first pitch. Top part of first pitch is a bit dirty and wet...
|
|||||||||
22 | ★★★ Pot of Gold | 62m, 10 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th May 2015 | ||||
Did the first pitch:
My new favorite at Dreamtime. Nice move into rest into nice move...
|
|||||||||
17 | ★ Tellumis Dreaming | 20m, 6 | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Sun 1st Feb 2015 | ||||
Rope got stuck after abseil...
|
|||||||||
19 | ★ Psychedelic Zucchini | 28m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Tue 26th Apr 2016 | ||||
18 | ★★ Totemic Arete | 65m, 21 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Apr 2016 | ||||
Nice climbing, but it's really a head game if you trust those footholds...
There is another anchor on the first ledge in P2 which is situated on a nice belay ledge so we finished P1 there.
|
|||||||||
17 | ★ Sorry | 15m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Tue 26th Apr 2016 | ||||
Nice and balancy
|
|||||||||
19 | ★ Back In Black | 50m | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Tue 26th Apr 2016 | ||||
DO NOT try to abseil from the top to the anchor of P1 with a 60m rope, it's not long enough!
|
|||||||||
20 19 | ★★ Namarron | 30m, 16 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Apr 2016 | ||||
Super climbing with some funky moves.
Would give this a 20 though....
|
|||||||||
17 | ★★ Underhanded Tactics | 25m, 6 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Apr 2016 | ||||
7 | ★ Prince Albert - with Michael Salt, Hannah Pearce | 12m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | ||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy - with Michael Salt | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Jul 2013 | ||||
Nice, fun little route, easy for the grade.
|
|||||||||
18 | ★★ The Perfect Extraction - with Michael Salt | 40m, 18 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jul 2014 | ||||
long and sustained....fun from start to finish.
|
|||||||||
19 | ★★ Not Drowning Waving - with Michael Salt | 26m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jul 2014 | ||||
Looks very hard, is very, very easy...
|
|||||||||
19 | ★★ The Apology - with Michael Salt | 50m | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Sep 2014 | ||||
Awesome! Long, sustained fun from start to finish.
|
|||||||||
20 | ★★ Wha Wha Knee | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Sep 2014 | ||||
15 | ★ The Big Easy - with Michael Salt | 42m, 17 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sat 27th Sep 2014 | ||||
Nice, fun warm up
|
|||||||||
20 | ★★ Wha Wha Knee - with Christina | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th May 2015 | ||||
20 18 | ★ 234 Duck! - with Christina | 14m, 7 | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Sat 16th May 2015 | ||||
18 17 | ★ Short Memory - with Christina | 25m, 13 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sat 16th May 2015 | ||||
Easy for the grade. Run out at the top if done as a sports route...
|
|||||||||
18 | ★★ The Perfect Extraction - with ConanBurch | 40m, 18 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Jun 2015 | ||||
19 | ★★ The Apology - with ConanBurch | 50m | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Jun 2015 | ||||
17 | ★ Sorry - with ConanBurch | 15m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Jun 2015 | ||||
20 | ★★ Wha Wha Knee - with ConanBurch | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Jun 2015 | ||||
Awesome
|
|||||||||
17 | ★ Tellumis Dreaming - with ConanBurch | 20m, 6 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sat 27th Jun 2015 | ||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy - with ConanBurch | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Jun 2015 | ||||
Nice little route. More like grade 17 or 16 though.
|
|||||||||
19 | ★★ Archies Arete - with Liam McGuinness | 35m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Fri 31st Dec 2010 | ||||
7 | ★ Prince Albert - with Henk | 12m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Yeah! Did the easiest sportclimb in the Grampians!
|
|||||||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy - with Henk | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Fun, yet a bit loose on some holds.
|
|||||||||
20 18 | ★ 234 Duck! - with Henk | 14m, 7 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Good holds are just out of my reach on this one.
|
|||||||||
19 | ★★ Not Drowning Waving - with Henk | 26m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Great climbing! Good variety of moves, fun exposure stepping on.
|
|||||||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy - with Sarunas Jurgilas | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Sun 12th Apr 2015 | ||||
19 | ★★ Not Drowning Waving - with Sarunas Jurgilas | 26m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Apr 2015 | ||||
Still a nice climb, marred only by the top section being quite a bit easier.
|
|||||||||
21 22 | ★★★ Pot of Gold - with Sarunas Jurgilas | 62m, 10 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Apr 2015 | ||||
Sweet, sweet honey pot of Gold!
Great climbing indeed, consistently at the grade (21).
We did extract about 30 kg of handhold-gold from this climb from about 15-20 meters up!
|
|||||||||
20 | ★★ Wha Wha Knee - with Sarunas Jurgilas | 23m, 11 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Apr 2015 | ||||
Cool start and nice delicate slab climbing. Watch out for loose blocks at the top!
|
|||||||||
21 | Man Overboard - with Sarunas Jurgilas | 24m, 12 | South-Eastern Grampians | Don't Bother | Mon 13th Apr 2015 | ||||
Great start! Horror show for the rest!
Heaps of loose blocks and rocks and even some loose blocks with bolts on it!!! (someone is going to die one of these days!)
Glad I made it down without disturbing any of it.
Climb delicate people, better yet avoid this one!
|
|||||||||
18 | ★★ The Perfect Extraction - with Sarunas Jurgilas | 40m, 18 | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Mon 13th Apr 2015 | ||||
Fun long climbing marred again by loose blocks and loose sections of cliff (with bolts!!!) that are accordion-ing out of the wall!
Someone needs to go in with a hammer & crowbar and clean it up. Probably will have to rebolt some of it. |
|||||||||
19 | ★★ Archies Arete - with Sarunas Jurgilas | 35m, 8 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Apr 2015 | ||||
Great climbing again! Enjoyed it more this time around in the cooler weather.
A refreshing change not having to pull on loose rocks & blocks!
|
|||||||||
20 18 | ★ 234 Duck! - with Sarunas Jurgilas | 14m, 7 | South-Eastern Grampians | Average | Mon 13th Apr 2015 | ||||
Still a bit weird and punchy! Would be more flowing if I didn't have to avoid the loose holds.
|
|||||||||
15 | ★ The Big Easy | 42m, 17 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Sun 12th Jan 2020 | ||||
18 |
★★ Totemic Arete
2
18
| 65m, 21 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jan 2020 | ||||
7 | ★ Prince Albert | 12m, 3 | South-Eastern Grampians | Sat 18th Nov 2017 | |||||
15 | ★ The Big Easy | 42m, 17 | South-Eastern Grampians | Sat 18th Nov 2017 | |||||
18 | ★★ Problem Solving Over .05 | 30m, 16 | South-Eastern Grampians | Sat 18th Nov 2017 | |||||
18 | ★ Wee Willy | 15m, 5 | South-Eastern Grampians | Sat 18th Nov 2017 | |||||
13 | ★ Sadie May | 50m, 10 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Wed 4th Apr 2018 | ||||
18 | ★★ The Perfect Extraction | 40m, 18 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Feb 2018 | ||||
23 22 | ★ Affagato | 25m, 12 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★ Good | Mon 12th Feb 2018 | ||||
Did the direct finish.
|
|||||||||
22 | ★★★ Pot of Gold | 62m, 10 | South-Eastern Grampians | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Feb 2018 | ||||
Very classy arete
|