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Description

Compact orange and grey wall on West side of Weirs Creek. Morning sun and afternoon shade.

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

New approach - As for Pocket Wall (Weirs Creek) - At end of Emus Foot (Jananginj Jawi) Track, turn right off the vehicle track (approx 200 metres down hill from gate after third 'speed' hump). Head diagonally left up towards the crag through open bush, crossing two creeks (second of which is normally running). At second creek, follow creek bed up to just below crags, then follow intermittent cairns up left to wall. Approximate walking time from gate at end of Emus Foot Track is 15 minutes

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 * Reload.......Now! Sport 18m, 8

Start off boulder at left end of wall. Up wall on great jugs to base of head wall where holds become significantly smaller (crux)! Up to lower off on very top of wall.

For another good warm up - go right at second last bolt to lower off above Revolver (Grade 17/18)

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, 9th Nov

2
21 Lapsed Pacifist Sport 15m, 7

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

3
21 * Revolver Sport 20m, 8

Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, 2014

4
22 ** Me and My Gun Sport 20m, 8

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. Start off rock step, THIN holds to start past first bolt (crux). Up right to undercling then straight up wall to dbl bolt lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 2014

5
22 *** Pump Action Sport 20m, 9

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start, up short corner for a few moves (as for 3 minute Rule), out left on small holds on horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, Anthony Pattison, 13th Sep

6
CLOSED Project A Sport Project 12

Closed Project - Link up between Pump Action and Me and My Gun

Set by Steve Holloway

7
21 * Right Caliber Sport 18m, 7

Same start as for Revolver. At third bolt (as for LP), rising traverse out right using bolts on Me and My Gun and Pump Action (use long draws) to lower off on right arete above 3 minute rule.

Another good variant is to continue up Me and My Gun from middle of traverse. (FA Steve and Amanda Holloway - 21/09/2014

FA: Steve Holloway, Anthony Pattison

8
19 * 3 minute rule Sport 15m, 7

Good warm up. Undercut start (as for Pump Action and Project A), up short corner and then up wall above to lower off on arete

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 21st Sep

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