West Side All sport climbing

7 routes in crag

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Description

Compact orange and grey wall on West side of Weirs Creek. Morning sun and afternoon shade

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

As for Weirs Creek. New approach - turn right off the vehicle track (Emus Foot Track) approx 200 metres down hill from locked gate. Head diagonally left up towards the crag through open bush, crossing two creeks (one of which is normally running). At second creek, follow creek bed up to just below crags, then follow intermittent cairns up left to wall. Approximate walking time from gate at end of Emus Foot Track is 15 - 20 minutes

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 Lapsed Pacifist Sport 15m, 7

East-facing, orange-streaked wall that is obvious from walking track and Disparate Housewives area. The first clip looks a bit daunting but is quite easy and safe if the belayer is organised properly. From the tree-fern gully continue steeply up the hillside below the cliffs. Continue past the large, rust-coloured slabby corner to the next gully and up a little to below the orange streaks. Step across gap to short diagonal past 2 bolts. Up on thin holds then thin moves before moving right and up.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, Norm Booth, 2012

2
21 * Revolver Sport 20m, 8

Starts at small hanging corner just down right of LP. Stick clip first bolt. Up corner (crux) to join LP at third bolt, step left then up keeping right of bolts to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, 2014

3
22 Me and My Gun Sport 20m, 8

Line in middle of wall, right of Revolver. Stick clip first bolt. THIN holds to start past first bolt (crux). Up to undercling then up wall to dbl bolt lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, 2014

4
22 Pump Action Sport 20m, 9

Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start, up short corner for a few moves, out left to small holds on horizontal break below 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha, Anthony Pattison, 13th Sep

5
Project A Sport Project 12

Link up between Pump Action and Me and My Gun

Set by Steve Holloway

6
21 Right Caliber Sport 18m, 8

Same start as for Revolver. At third bolt (as for LP), rising traverse out right past glue in bolt, then using bolts on Me and My Gun and Pump Action (use long draws) to lower off on right arete of wall (above Project B).

FA: Steve Holloway, Anthony Pattison

7
Project B Sport Project

Right most route on wall, shares same start as for Pump Action and Project A

Set by Steve Holloway

Open trips

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