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University Buttress

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Ethic inherited from Mount Wellington

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (kunyani@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Sustained pitch with some excellent moves.

FA: Dave H Jon N, 2017

Excellent face climbing. Access by climbing Well Actually.

Access pitch for Hold That Thought

Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB.

The clean hand crack. Either step left at the roof (grade 17) or continue direct up the crack (grade 19). Belay anchors at top.

FA: P. Robinson, K. Bischoff & Mar 1981., 1981

FA: R. Parkyn & O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015

FA: R Parkyn, Mar 2015

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

  1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

  2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

FA: I. Lewis & L. Closs, 1972

Takes the prominent corner line immediately right of Chancellor Direct about 8m up the left side of Avalanche Couloir. Start in the big broken right facing corner as for Vice Chancellor or start up the short wall just right of Chancellor Direct to meet the big corner after 8m. This second option doesn't add much other than the possibility of a painful ground fall.

  1. 30m. Follow the corner for 15m, traverse left and up to small square ledge. Climb the awkward crack to belay on an exposed ledge on the wall.

  2. 25m. Up the clean crack above. The move off the next ledge into the crack was originally aided. At the top traverse right to the rap anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.

FFA: Unknown

FA: M. Douglas & T. Terry, 1967

Starts as for Chancellor in the big right facing corner between Chancellor Direct and Carpe Diem.

  1. 14m. Up Chancellor to a stance.

  2. 24m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney directly via a 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chockstone.

  3. 18m. Climb out around the chockstones and up the final corner crack.

FA: G.Batten, M. Douglas & R. Mansfield, 1968

Brilliant face climbing. A double set of small/medium wires very useful. About 10m right of CD is a recessed column. Scramble up to the base with care. Up, till you can step right onto the column proper. Follow shallow r facing corner till the gear fizzles out, then reach righ to gain hidden flake. Follow this up to gain top of column. There is a DBB a few metres up and left.

Crack to right of carpet diem with roof at 20m.

Bolted arete up and right from Cape Diem. DBB.

This small buttress is in between University Buttress and Avalanche Gully, right next to the main path.

1a. A tasty morsel climbing the left-hand arete. Thoughtful moves past the bolts, then over the small roof, with a trad hand crack to the DBB (17m).

1b. Extra Nibbles. (17) If you want a little more trad action, climb the alternative start up the crack just around to the left of Canapes, joining the original route above the roof.

FA: B. Bull, T. McKenny & I. Crossland, Dec 2016

The arete directly off the walking track. Good but spaced protection.

FA: Tony McKenny & Bob Bull, 2016

Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals.

Wall climbing immediatly left of Sun Stealer.

FA: Mar 2015

Up black streak immediatly left of 19 Shades. Shares last bolt and DBB with that route.

Located on small buttress next to track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress, at the base of Avalanche Couloir. Climb the right side of short black streaked wall to DBB.

2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux

FA: T. McKenny, O. Gervasoni & D. Stephenson

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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