Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
28 | |||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Unleash ya Willy | 25m, 4 | |||
The Lighthouse Peristalsis Area | |||||
28 | ★★★ Mako's Legacy
Rap of double rings at top. Recommend pre clipping 1st bolt. Start at ledge and up steep over hang. Up and up to crux on small pockets and moving right across the shield to arete. Good no hands rest and spicy slab finisher! Epic climbing and lasting memory for the faithful hound FA: Tim Booth, 28 Nov 2022 | 25m, 12 | |||
28 | ★★★ High Society
Impressive steep arete, overhung on both sides. Bolts still good as at 2020. Fantastic easier climbing to a stout final section. FA: Zac Vertress, 2006 | 25m | |||
27/28 | |||||
The Lighthouse Peristalsis Area | |||||
27/28 | ★★★ Lawson, git the Dawg
FA: Tim Booth | 10 | |||
27 | |||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Da Omen
The one bolt extension of The Omen to enable the link into the top of Permissability. Super small pockets, just like 80s French limestone! Set: Matt Brooks FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013 | 30m | |||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
27 | ★★ Rani
Abseil off double rings to ledge. Double ring belay. Pre clip 1st ring as little spicy move down low. Cruise to mid height for punchy crux then go for ze sumeet FA: Tim Booth, 11 Jun 2018 | 10m, 8 | |||
The Mild West Rainbird Wall | |||||
27 | Blue Eyed Lizard
The line of bolts up the arching wall left of 'Scurvy'. FFA: Johan Sylvain & Kyle Dunshire FA: Glenn Jones | 7 | |||
26 | |||||
Thunder Head Tequilla Sunrise | |||||
26 | ★★ I Smell Something Fishy
Awesome, long and pumpy, a little sandy in spots. Abseil from the DUB anchors directly above the Fishos hut 30 L of the Tempest. Up the wall , over the roof the R and up the wall. The last 5m is a little sandy but are well protected. FA: Matt Brooks, 2013 | 40m, 15 | |||
Seaside The Poop Deck | |||||
26 | ★★ Tattood Beat Messiah
Line of rings up wall to the left of the diagonal crack. Follow the reddish streaks via some big funky moves to a last move crux. FA: WillWatkins, 2013 | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★★ The Doo Doo Rock
Follow Nice orange rock with long moves between pockets. Spicy move at top. FA: Tim Booth, 2014 | 15m | |||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Shooting The Breeze Extension
Some nice holds on this one following the attractive seam. Up and R from the anchors past two more ringbolts and a cam. | 25m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★★ Settle Down Damo
Two bolt extension of Blowing In The Wind to the top. FA: Tim Booth, 2014 | 30m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Halfway House Extension
The one bolt extension to Not All There. Thin and techy. | 22m, 7 | |||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
26 | ★ Kalani
Rap in off ring and carrot. Down to double ring belay. Moderate move past 1st ring and punchy crux near top. Enjoy FA: Tim Booth, 20 May 2018 | 13m, 8 | |||
Bayside Bluebeard Area | |||||
26 | ★★ Things that go Pop
Straight up from the belay. FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig & Andy, 1992 | 25m | |||
26 | ★★★ Sticky Moments
| 20m | |||
25 | |||||
Thunder Head Tequilla Sunrise | |||||
25 | ★★ Sushi with a View
Start as for ISSF. Abseil 40m from DUB directly above the Fishos cave 20 L of the Tempest. Climb ISSF for the first few bolts then head and up the wall past 9 FH to a single UB lower off. Soon to be doubled. FA: Matt Brooks, 2013 | 35m, 13 | |||
Seaside Heavy Weather - Bon Voyage | |||||
25 | ★★ Zodiac Mindwarp
Start off the corner ledge as for Terra Nullius. Clip first carrot of this and traverse the breaks past two ring bolts. Continue straight up through fantastic climbing and rock to a crux past the last bolt. FA: Will Watkins, 2013 | 20m, 7 | |||
Seaside The Poop Deck | |||||
25 | ★ Wide Awakening
The line of ringbolts starting up large R-facing flake. Good moderate climbing through solid rock to the sandy finale which will have you cursing. FA: Jake Noblett, 2013 | 22m, 6 | |||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ I Have A Dream
Start 3m L of Walk The Plank. Hard start with awkward second clip - care! Steel yourself for the top moves on the rounded flake. If Martin Luther King could dream I guess we all can... FA: Set: Rick Phillips, 2012 FFA: Will Watkins, 2012 | 20m, 8 | |||
25 | ★★★ Vertical Romance
Great route, shady all day, overhanging, and crazy cool moves. The line of ringbolts that starts up the flake 5m R of Montezuma and 5m L of Turning Of The Tide. Belay off mid-sized cams 6-8m back, or carrots 20m back. FA: Duncan Hunter | 30m, 11 | |||
The Lighthouse Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Seahawk
Big, steep and on excellent rock for most of the way. The lower pitches start at sea level and feature amazing orange smooth rock. The upper easy pitch is a great single pitch in its own right with a variety of rock types (from smooth, to pocketed to slightly chossy). You can link pitch 1 & 2 together for one massive 50m pitch (as was done on the first ascent).
FA: Matt Brooks (p 1, 2) & Neil Monteith (p3), 2013 | 84m, 3, 14 | |||
The Lighthouse Peristalsis Area | |||||
25 | Zaks piker
FFA: Tim Booth | ||||
Bayside Bluebeard Area | |||||
25 | ★★ Emotional Hooligan
Up to the horizontal break, then traverse diagonally right to the arete and up. FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992 | 25m | |||
25 | ★★ Itchy and Scratchy
| 25m | |||
Bayside Flotsam Area | |||||
25 | ★★★ Superstylin
Underneath the big cave before you hit 'T-shirt Gully'. Not obvious at first, scramble down from the right (looking out). Dodgy 3rd bolt has been replaced 20/8/23 | 12m, 4 | |||
24 | |||||
The Town Cliffs Tumbledown | |||||
24 | ★ Sober
Harder than it should be... or much easier if you take the blinkers off. 2m right of Rosetta Stoned. Loads of bolts at the crux to keep you safe. Climb direct at 24+ - or use the obvious holds on the right for a nice grade 21. FA: Alec Landstra, 2 Oct 2020 | 9m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Pocket Lottery
Lovely technical climbing up great orange rock. The shallow crux pockets seem unlikely - but the low angle of this wall makes it feasible. Set: Rick Phillips FA: Alec Landstra | 10m, 5 | |||
Thunder Head Tequilla Sunrise | |||||
24 | ★★ Dom Perignon
Starts 4m right of Tequila Sunrise. Wall to overhung arete. Set: Will Watkins, 2016 | 25m | |||
Thunder Head Fisho's Descent Area | |||||
24 | ★★ New power generation
Jump or pull up for jug in roof. Pull up and left on amazing jugs and edges. Two big moves up before heading right to pull the lip/arete and up to lower offs Set: will FA: will watkins, 8 May 2016 | 12m, 6 | |||
Seaside The Poop Deck | |||||
24 | ★★★ The Throne
Starts 3m right of the crack. This climb is basically two boulder problems divided by a sit down rest in the middle. Ideal for strong climbers with no endurance. FA: Jake Noblett, 2013 | 20m, 8 | |||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ The Omen
Great sport climbing on lovely orange rock. This is the ringbolted line right of Hungry Eyes. If you stay where the bolts are and don't sneak off right where it is easier then you don't share any climbing with Permissability. Either way the last few metres are the crux! To get the full tick, climb past the double bolt anchors for one more move to the large pocket and back-jump to the anchors. FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013 Set: Simon Vaughan, 2013 | 22m, 13 | |||
24 | ★ Sunset Boulevard
Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves. Start up the corner as for Montezuma, then follow the rings on the right wall and through a small roof up high. Belay off mid-sized cams 6-8m back, or carrots 20m back. | 30m, 10 | |||
The Lighthouse Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall | |||||
24 | ★★★ Atmosfear
Continous steep climbing on mostly big holds. Currently the right most line of bolts on the lower wall. Easy start up jugs then the angle starts to steepen and the holds get smaller. Keep fighting through a pumpy section to jugs. Finish up superb polished rock heading slightly left to double rings on ledge below top pitch of All Guns Blazing. FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 50m, 18 | |||
24 | ★★ All Guns Blazing
Multipitch sport route straight up the guts of the biggest and steepest section of Point Perp. Very sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The first pitch especially is an absolute stunner. It's 90m direct to sea level via free hanging abseil - a 100m rope, or two 50m tied together makes rap access easy (knot change required if using two 50m). Otherwise - fix a 50m rap rope and clip into bolts on the way down to the belay ledge at end of pitch 1. Then use a 70m rope doubled to make it to sea level. Don't attempt the lower pitches if the surf is up!
Set: Neil Monteith FA: Neil Monteith (p1, 3) & Matt Brooks (p2), 2013 | 86m, 3 | |||
The Lighthouse Peristalsis Area | |||||
24 | Ivan's Milat
Bolted seam. | ||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
24 | ★★ Wifey's cookin one
Rap in off double rings to double rings at ledge. Up then punchy second half with a big chuck to a pocket to finish FA: Tim Booth, 12 Nov 2017 | 10m, 8 | |||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | |||||
24 | ★★★ Mister Bean
Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... . FA: Greg James, 1992 | 30m, 10 | |||
Bayside Hello Dolly Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Snickers Ahoy
Up to thin, hard finish at top. FA: Rod Young | 30m | |||
The Mild West Raptures Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Squid lips
Either start off the main ledge near the corner "Puffin" or rap as per Tinder Surprise to independent belay anchors.. Small to medium cams at start and then bolts to the top. Crux at mid height.. Highly polished rock will make this climb harder with humidity. FA: Rick Phillips | 20m | |||
23 | |||||
Thunder Head Tequilla Sunrise | |||||
23 | ★★ Passion Pop
Short, powerful and steep mini route bordering the left end of VB Slab. A good pumper when you get tired of the slabs! Lower-offs before the top of the cliff, so exit out via Slippery Nipples Set: Rick Phillips FFA: Heath Black & Vanessa Wills, 10 Apr 2016 | 10m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Tequila Slammer
Sweet orange and grey wall directly under the mega choss roofs. Lucky there is lower-offs before this roof! FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers Set: Rick Phillips, 2016 | 15m | |||
Thunder Head Fisho's Descent Area | |||||
23 | ★ Pufferfish
Old school crimpfest. Very thin and technical in the lower half then cruisy fun pockets. Start at seam crack 1m left of major corner (as for Sharkies) then diagonally left onto orange face. Belay off ubolts at edge of cave. FA: Heath Black, Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers, 1 May 2016 | 20m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★ Fifty Seven
Pull up or Jump for jug in roof and crimp up to slot. Trend right to arete and pull round and up to lower offs. Set: will FA: Will watkins, 8 May 2016 | 5 | |||
23 | ★★ The Get Down
Mini route on steep pocketed wall with ringbolts. Belay off single FH under roof. Two bouldery sections down low then pumper pockets to finish. Double U bolts on top ledge for belay and rap-in. FA: Heath Black & adam demmert, 17 Sep 2016 | 10m, 4 | |||
Seaside The Poop Deck | |||||
23 | ★★ I Once Was A Cyborg
Climb the chossy rooflet to good solid rock for the rest of the climb. Nice sustained climbing past plenty of bolts. Respect the small pebbles as you pass them as they will help you out. FA: Jake Noblett, 2013 | 22m, 8 | |||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Happy Go Lucky
Start 3m L of the Man Overboard corner under the line of fixed hangers. Routefinding skills required at second bolt (!) Sustained climbing on fiddly, often sharp little holds finishing at lower-off 4m below the clifftop. Has been linked into the top flake of Walk The Plank to top out. FA: Rick Phillips & Seb Sakowicz, 2012 | 22m, 10 | |||
23 | ★ Beef in Cider
The arête direct, starting on left side (just right of Vertical Romance). 5 U-bolts, optional 2&3 camalot, one U-bolt and then join into last three carrot bolts of Turning of the Tide. Pumpy! Use long runners on the carrots to avoid ropedrag. FA: Heath Black, 18 Apr 2016 | 30m, 9 | |||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
23 | ★★ Two Minute Hate
Short punchy face. This is NOT a three star route. Maybe one star. | 12m, 5 | |||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | |||||
23 | ★★ Unorthodox Liasons
Climb direct up the wall to the left of the arete past 5 ring bolts. Challenging moves low down leads to pleasant upper section. FA: Will Watkins & Rick fatty fillips, 2012 | 15m, 5 | |||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
23 | ★ Sieze The Day
Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this FA: Rick Phillips & Paul Devine, 2012 | 28m | |||
23 | ★ Big Bad Wolf
Starts under the line of rings, 3m left of "When the Levee Breaks". The crux is just above the halfway ledge, and it will be desperate if you are a little short. And considering that you'll land on the ledge, this isn't the place for soft catches. FA: Will Watkins, 2012 | 20m | |||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | |||||
23 | ★★ All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only)
Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts. FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 36m, 13 | |||
Bayside Bluebeard Area | |||||
23 | ★★ Wallace & Grommet
Rap down the corner to the double rings and traverse right to the orange wall and up some of the best rock at the point FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012 | 18m | |||
22 | |||||
The Town Cliffs Tumbledown | |||||
22 | ★★ Rosetta Stoned
Starts 2m right of Glen 20. Climbs up through the lovely rock. Stay on the face at the end for an exciting finish! FA: Alec Landstra, 2 Oct 2020 | 10m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Talk the Talk
King sport line of the crag. Up the stunning face on the left side of Cry Freedom's corner. The very last move is three stars on its own. Stick clip high first bolt. Hold on tight! Some of the bolt positions are right of where you actually climb - grade very much depends on how contrived/direct you want to make it. FA: Alec Landstra & Match, 26 Sep 2020 | 30m, 12 | |||
Thunder Head Orange wall | |||||
22 | ★★ Game of Thrones
Right hand line of bolts. Great rock and moves up to lower off. Shares first bolt with Breaking Bad. Set: Will FA: Will Wat Rick phillips, 21 May 2016 | 10m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Breaking Bad
Second bolted route from the right. Up from ledge on amazing rock and some sweet moves. Dont be fooled by the size of the holds. This will make you work hard. Up to lower off. Set: will FA: will & Rick Phillips, 21 May 2016 | 10m, 5 | |||
Thunder Head Fisho's Descent Area | |||||
22 | ★★ Sharkies
Really great sustained face climbing. Starts 1m left of major corner. Up seam and then wall above, finishing slightly left under hanging boulder at FH and belay at double Ubolts in cave. FA: Heath Black, 1 May 2016 | 20m, 10 | |||
22 | ★★ Footloose and Fancy Free
Start in the middle of wall. Stick clip first bolt in ceiling and batman up to it. Super airy excursion leftwards to the arete and then up to double rings at top FA: Rick Phillips, May 2016 | 12m | |||
22 | ★ Rocky Horror Picture Show
Walk south thru cave to belay off two carrots. Straight up and slightly right thru the stepped roofs... The crux isn't the steep stuff FA: Rick Phillips & will Set: Rick | 25m, 10 | |||
22 | ★ Limber Up
Rap from double BRs on small ledge to semi-hanging belay off single ringbolt (back it up with rap rope or clip 2nd bolt with long sling). Start with 5m of easy slab to diabolical roof move then easy jugs and finally a short compact section of pumpy steep pockets just left of easy crack. FA: Heath Black, 22 May 2016 | 18m, 7 | |||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | |||||
22 | ★ PaddleRock
Climb between Drunk and Disorderly and Feeding Frenzy, tuff move at 3rd bolt then make your way up to double rings. Last 6 meters is an open project. Enjoy:) FA: Tim Booth, 10 Nov 2017 | 25m, 12 | |||
22 | ★★ Shooting The Breeze
The middle of the trio. Fantastic climb; very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top. Ringbolts. FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012 | 23m, 10 | |||
22 | ★★ Hot to Trot
Line of bolts left of the Montezuma corner, gaining in difficulty the higher you go, to lower-offs (doesn't top out). FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 2012 | 23m, 11 | |||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | |||||
22 | ★★ We Are Amphibious
Ring-bolted arete with awesome pockets. FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Trengove, 2007 | 10m | |||
22 | ★★ Just Technical
| 15m | |||
22 | ★★ Fight or Flight
Line of carrot bolts to the right of Liquid Daze. Great moves on great rock. Starts off the vegitated block ledge. FA: R.Dunn & Matt Scoles, 2006 | 15m | |||
22 | ★ Grandmas ta Flash
Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune. FFA: Mike Garben | 15m | |||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | |||||
22 | ★★ Captagon
A long pumper on pockets. A touch overhung. It's the ringbolted route squeezed between Destroyer and Voyager, but starting much lower on tiny 'ledge' with ring bolts. Set: Neil Monteith, 26 Oct 2014 FA: Heath Black & ben lane, 19 Mar 2016 | 28m, 11 | |||
Bayside Gushing Blood Area | |||||
22 | ★ Sandblaster
| 12m | |||
Bayside Werner Burner Area | |||||
22 | ★ Boat People
The bolt line right of Werner Berner. Absail in to the recessed ledge off two carrot bolts clipping the last two draws to get to the ledge. Two ring bolt belay. Climb powerfully on good holds off the ledge onto a pumpy overhanging face. Overcome a couple of tricky sections to finish with the crux passing the last bolt. FA: Will Watkins & Rick fillips, 2012 | 20m, 8 | |||
22 | ★★ Welcome to the Asylum
Start off ledge and climb steeply up jugs and some realy cool moves. Top out and belay from two carrot bolts. FA: Will Watkins & Tom Benefer, 2012 | 20m, 9 | |||
Bayside Flotsam Area | |||||
22 | ★ Desparete
The short arête between Lemon Sorbet and Face De Rat. Good for a photo. Rap down to a 2 carrot bolt belay on foot ledge. Climb the balancy arête passing 3 ring bolts. There is a belay carrot bolt at the top. FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta | 10m | |||
21 | |||||
The Town Cliffs Chippendale | |||||
21 | ★★★ Normality
Up the featured wall 4 metres left of Anthrax Ripple. Beautiful rock and quite tricky and sustained to DRB LO. Great climbing. FA: Simon Vaughan, 21 Oct 2020 | 15m, 6 | |||
Thunder Head Orange wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Ying Yang
About 30 mtrs past Orange wall locate the 2 rap bolts above a short orange wall about 10 mtrs high with bolts..(this is pitch 2) Continue rapping down clipping the bolts otherwise you WILL be in outta space... The hanging belay is fairly out there so be confident with exposure.. Climb up and out over the roof (crux).. Falling here, it's best to be lowered down to start again.. Maybe carry prussics FA: Rick Phillips & Sabine | 35m, 2 | |||
Thunder Head Solstice Wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Solstice Pich One
Start directltly 20m below Solstice off the big ledge. A big move off the ground where the rock is a little sandy leads up L into the corner before going diagonally R to the DBB belay. FA: Matthew Brooks, 2013 | 20m, 8 | |||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | |||||
21 | ★★ Blowing In The Wind
The leftmost of a trio of easier sport routes in the center of Windjammer Wall which puts 6 retrobolts onto The Sublime and the Ridiculous. FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012 | 20m, 10 | |||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
21 | ★★★ Rex Hunt's Love Child
A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it! Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts if you are not confident at the grade. That said, hanging around to place gear might mean you miss the tick! Falls are safe from the crux. Warning: As of 4/1/18, the fixed hanger at the anchor is loose and needs replacing. FA: Paul Greenland, 1992 | 30m, 10 | |||
Bayside Gushing Blood Area | |||||
21 | ★★ Bandit Boy
Pleasant bolted wall and arete . Start off the left hand end of the split membranes ledge. Airy and exposed moves up the wall and arete past 6 ring bolts. Belay bolts at top. FA: Will Watkins & Jake Noblet, 2013 | 12m, 6 | |||
Bayside Werner Burner Area | |||||
21 | ★★ Werner Burner
Ascends the face right of Horn Blown. There is a diagonal crack on the cliff top right of a small bush. This is Horn Blown. Locate 2 carrot bolts at the top and rap down Horn Blown to a ledge. The wall is overhanging so clip a couple of the bolts on the way down to avoid being stranded in space. There is a 2 carrot bolt belay at the ledge. Left and up past 7 ring bolts. The bolts can be supplemented with cams. FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun | 25m, 7 | |||
21 | ★ Whistle Blower
The face left of Blown Horn. Locate the bolts at the top and rap down to the big belay ledge at the start of Hornblower's second pitch. Either clip the first bolt on the way down, or set up a belay in the horizontal break using cams (around size ½-2). Left and up past 4 ring bolts. FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta | 10m | |||
Bayside The Deeps Area | |||||
21 | ★★ Ricks route
Lower cliff, rap of hex bolts to small ledge. Up middle of wall following ring bolts | 25m | |||
Bayside Bluebeard Area | |||||
21 | ★★ E=Mc2
Rap to a hanging belay off bolts, comfy harness required... Climb back up on the holds you can see but actually are not there!! Stella position to overcome any exposure problems FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012 | 18m | |||
The Mild West Raptures Wall | |||||
21 | ★★★ Dream Weaver
Start off the main ledge, just before it narrows. Climb steeply through and around the bulges... Take small wires and small to medium cams for the middle.. FA: Rick Phillips, Doug Bell & Aleasha Way | 28m | |||
21 | ★★ Sleeping Serpent
First three bolts of Dream Weaver then head left over the lip of the roof. Then the crux is on the immaculate orange rock of the head wall.. Wires and small cams protect the easing top section to the anchors.. The name is originated from the Diamond Python i used to rap over daily we became good friends☺ FA: Rick Phillips | 25m | |||
20 | |||||
The Town Cliffs Tumbledown | |||||
20 | ★★ 17 My Arse
Bolted face just left of Mombassa's corner crack. Rick says its 20 but Alec is not convinced. Fun moves on great rock. Stick-clip first bolt or break a leg - you decide. FA: Rick Phillips & Shifty Clifty, 5 Oct 2020 | 15m, 7 | |||
20 | ★★ Glen 20
Just right of the corner of Cry Freedom pitch 2. Great sustained climbing between breaks and sidepulls. FA: Fill this in! | 10m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Walk the Walk
From anchors above Cry Freedom trend left and upwards to exciting shared finish with Talk the Talk. FA: Troy Clifton, 26 Sep 2020 | 10m, 4 | |||
Thunder Head Orange wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Double Dutch
Second climb in from the left... Straight up wall on good holds until they run out... FA: Rick Phillips & will | 10m | |||
Thunder Head Tequilla Sunrise | |||||
20 | ★ Tequilla Sunrise
Long route starting way down on the big vegetated ledge. Starts on far left edge of orange face. Not really a sport route as you need two medium cams for the easy middle. No bolt plates required. FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins Aleasha Way, 2016 | 30m | |||
Thunder Head Fisho's Descent Area | |||||
20 | ★★ Rainbows in a Rainstorm
Quality fun sport route starting at right end of undercut cave on large vegetated ledge. Swing through short roof to start then up yummy sustained face with ringbolts. Mistakenly marked in the recent print guide topo as 'Blue Stocking". FA: Rick Phillips & Aleasha Way, 2016 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Whurple
Starts 10m (climbers) left of The Get Down. Rap off RBs to ledge. Use 1st RB as belay anchor. Head up & left finishing up right side of arete. The lower start is a closed project (Murple Whurple). FA: Ramon Francis & Jonah Bellet, 20 Jan | 12m, 6 | |||
Shellfish Area Popeye Wall | |||||
20 | ★★★ Popeye
FFA: 2011 | 25m, 9 | |||
Seaside The Poop Deck | |||||
20 | ★★ Drifting Ashore
As for previous route but break right at 2nd bolt and climb past another 5-6 bolts on cool rock to an awesome, spicy finish on the arete. FA: Jake Noblett, 2013 | 22m, 8 | |||
The Lighthouse Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Wedding Party
Easier variant to Seahawk's second pitch. From belay ledge climb right clipping first two bolts of Seahawk, then keep traversin right and up white polished wall past two expansion bolts to ledge. Climbed on Neil's wedding day! FA: Neil Monteith & Jono 'Bestman' Schmidt, 2013 | 15m, 4 | |||
The Lighthouse Lighthouse Lower Whalesong Buttress | |||||
20 | ★ Repulse
The face left of Whalesong with squillions of carrots - that are very hard to spot from below. Start on the left side of blunt arete at the foot of the buttress. Although generally the rock is excellent on this route, there are many large detached flakes that should have been removed with a hammer by the first ascent team. Be warned - get your belayer to wear a helmet. Don't believe the print guide topo - there is NO lower-off anchor at the top of this climb - just two carrots. You will need to finish up Superliner to get off. FA: Robert Dunn & Werner Steyer, 2004 | 30m, 12 | |||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | |||||
20 | ★★ Seahawk (Top Pitch only)
The top pitch of Seahawk from DBB. Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way. FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 35m, 13 | |||
Bayside Gushing Blood Area | |||||
20 | ★ Mermaid
| 15m | |||
20 | ★ Medusa
| 15m |