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New Zealand Buttress

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Castle Hill

No access issues

Ethic inherited from Castle Hill

Be careful of loose rock and of people walking on the trails below the climbs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Marked 'S'. Starts down near the first railing on the path. Walk up from the track through some grass to start. The line of four manky, horrid, rusty bolts leading to a natural seam. Some silly attempts have been made to free the route, but the bottom section is sharp and difficult.

Apparently better than it looks. Marked 'O', this route starts ~4m right of S and 3m L of GIT. A bouldery start with a thin, rusty bolt, then up the natural line of flared pockets up a seam passing another non-essential bolt enroute to the top. Take big cams.

Starts at the L hand side of the wall with the arch, at the big trail arrow painted on the rock, 3m R of O. Watch out for a loose hold at the 2nd bolt. Up jugs to below overhung scoop then up through scoop (don't pike-off left onto slab!) and directly up to mantle sloping ledge. Step R, up face, and over little block to good holds. Jug-haul runout up face and then up L to small ledge and double rings. Save your rope and rap off the rings rather than lower. 5 FHs.

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

A fun undercling climb that tests your smear skills and endurance.

Start far right of obvious long, large, horizontal crack. Work your way up and onto the face of the cliff. Smear and undercling your way to the left until you hit a small cave section. Tricky section after a undercling pump, but look for holds and you will be rewarded.

Finish by climbing down at the end of the underclinging crack.

Reverse works too but it has a tricky start.

Gets full sun from 8am - 2pm

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2011

Same as Klingon Death Rays but continue along the dusty crack above you (do not use - or finish - at the concreted rocks)

Really good and solid for the grade. Starts at the R hand end of the arch. A bouldery start then up and R to the roof. The nut on the bolt above the roof maybe loose. Diagonally L to the massive chains.

FA: Scott Bewley & Anthony Timms, 1997

Burly and a bit loose just like the dog himself. Climb up HANDIOTNZ to the third FH then up 1.5m R over roof (#2 cam and small sling where there is a small plant) to a pocket and good small wires - use a long sling. A neat dynamic crux up R of these past the FHs on MC and finish at the rings.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 1998

Start 4m R of HANDIOTNZ at the closed seam. Good holds lead up the face to a hard move at the overlap. Over this and steeply up the face above to the rings.

Set: Matt Brooks, Mar 2018

FA: Steven Ioannou & Chris Beric, 15 May 2020

Starts behind the boulder at the end of the bouldering wall, to the R of "Mr Krinkle". Ascend the corner with grass growing out of it. 15+m?

As you keep walking past the bouldering wall, you'll encounter the 10m high Pyramid Pinnacle on your L. This climb (that is actually marked with what looks like an upside down "U") starts behind this pinnacle. Up the face to some gear in the diagonal crack and then up from there possibly. 20+m?

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Wed 26 Apr
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