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Seth Zawn

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 41
  • Ascents: 61
  • Aka: Slanted Slab

Fixed Gear: No More Fixed Protection Please

No More Fixed Protection Please

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Created about two years ago
33

Seasonality

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Description

THERE IS VERY LITTLE GENUINE ADVENTURE TO BE FOUND ON THE MORNINGTON PENINSULA AND YOU WOULD HAVE TO TRAVEL FOR MANY MILES BEFORE YOU COULD CONSIDER YOURSELF TO BE IN ADVENTUROUS TERRAIN. ADVENTURE IS MEDICINE FOR THE SOUL FOR SOME PEOPLE AND SO IT WOULD BE NICE TO KEEP A LITTLE SENSE OF THAT HERE IN SETH ZAWN. THE ORIGINAL DEVELOPERS OF THE CLIMBING HERE RESPECTFULLY ASK THAT VISITORS REFRAIN FROM TURNING THE VENUE INTO A CONVENIENCE CRAG. FIXED GEAR ENORMOUSLY DETRACTS FROM THE VIBE OF THE PLACE AND REALLY HAS NO PLACE ON THESE DIMINUTIVE EDGES. IF YOU ARE NOT KEEN TO LEAD A ROUTE ON TRAD PROTECTION OR SOLO THEN USE SOME TRADITIONAL SKILLS TO ARRANGE A TOP ROPE. THIS IS NOT A SPORT CRAG BY ANY STRETCH OF THE IMAGINATION. PLEASE DO NOT BOLT WHAT LITTLE ROCK WE HAVE HERE.

This particular point on the coastline below Mount Martha's Esplanade has the tallest and best quality granite in the area allowing reasonably reliable gear to be placed although caution should still be exercised. "Discovered" during an exploratory day by 9 year old Kai Seth Robertson, it is a lot of fun but it is not Yosemite.

Access issues inherited from Mornington Peninsula

All documented areas have free access.

Approach

Park in the second pull off north of Stanley Crescent (Old Quarry). Follow the gritty fisherman's track down to the water's edge and head south. Passing some small bouldering areas along the way, Seth Zawn is reached in just a few minutes (about 200m).

There are alternative approaches from the south but take care walking along the road. It is not suitable for pedestrians. Best to drop straight down fisho's tracks from larger parking areas and enjoy meandering around the coast.

Ethic inherited from Mount Martha

NO BOLTS PLEASE.

History

History timeline chart

Although noticed by Martin Lama, back in the day, and traversed to some degree, this area was first recorded in 2016 by Kai Seth Robertson, 9 years old, and his dad. Kai spotted it first while they were out exploring climbing potential. Subsequent development has aimed at retaining the adventurous nature of these diminutive granite sea cliffs. Please leave the rock and it's surrounds for others to explore as though discovering it for themselves, and allowing them to develop traditional skills that they may take to places of greater grandeur.

Routes

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Grade Route

Another shortarse boulder. SS both hands on mini ramp. Do as thou wilt with feet. Pull on and reach for the top.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 14 Dec

Left Wall centre from SS of rift on way to Seth Zawn. See photo.

FA: 12 Jan 2020

Up arete without using the large 'ledge' below.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson & Karl Bromelow

FA: 2017

FA: Grant, 2022

2m left of "Diaphoresis". Direct up wall.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson & Karl Bromelow, 2017

FA: Grant, 2022

Contrived but fun. Left to right traverse then up. Careful of loose blocks. See photo.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 31 Jul 2023

A sit start extension to Carat. Starting very low to the left of the Carat corner on turnip coloured rock. Either use the leftmost sharp crack or the (harder and better) slightly closer shallow flake crack for the left hand and crimp close to the arete for the right hand. Feet vey low, pull on and traverse right into and finishing up Carat. As with most things around here, rules apply to add difficulty and interest. No big jugs on the top till the end, no big foot holds slightly out from the bottom, no flat top of the Carat layback ramp and no feet on the ramp at all. I know it's contrived but so is much of human endeavour and Turnip is fun! Long description, tiny problem.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 17 Jun 2021

Beautiful orange wall in the shallow corner north of the zawn. Rules are, sit start, no obvious ledge for feet and no flat top of ramp. Layback and crimp to the top.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 2016

The crack on it's right side from a sit start, right of Carat.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 30 Jan 2023

From down the hole behind the Volcom Stone. Climb it from low hands and feet as low as possible. Squeezing lemons now.

FA: Karl Bromelow

FA: 14 Dec

Diamond shaped slabby boulder before the Zawn. Tricky shin scraper of a sit start. Easier once established on the slab.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 2016

Walk up the Volcom Stone, no hands. Start bottom left and straight up the middle.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 4 Jul 2022

The right wall, looking in, of the rift/ derelict shelter right of The Volcom Stone. Climbed many times over many years and left unrecorded like many things around here.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, Karl Bromelow, mandy robertson & andrew johnson seb johnson mikayla, 2016

This is the low level traverse, not possible at very high tide or if the sea is too choppy without wetsuit boots. A delightful way into Seth Zawn from the North West end traversing left to right through a series of awkward overhangs and corners. The water is just deep enough to drop carefully into on a warm day.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 2016

One of the more entertaining ways to escape up from the Diamonds traverse. Takes the lovely hanging arete on the right side of the obvious V niche just after the start of the traverse.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 2017

A left to right girdle traverse of Seth Zawn starting as for Diamonds but climbing higher terrain and continuing around the corner to finish at the top of Pigface.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson & Karl Bromelow

FA: 31 Dec 2020

Reverse the traverse of Diamonds but escape up the right bulging overhang/arete of the V notch before the end.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 28 Dec 2017

The main wall of the Zawn. Ledge area on the right of the cliffline beneath "Falling Rock" and water on the left.

Just left of Obi1 through the small overhangs near the top on good holds.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 2016

FA: 2016

Obvious crack 2 or so meters left of Falling Rock

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 2016

The landward end of the south facing wall of the zawn has a scooped out overhanging section on less than perfect rock. Falling Rock takes the flake/crack system just left of this area. Take care with hollow sounding flakes and loose top.

FFA: Karl Bromelow, Kai Robertson & Mandy Robertson, 28 Jan 2017

FA: Karl Bromelow, Kai Robertson & Mandy Robertson, 28 Jan 2017

As for "Fault Line" until the big grotty jug, then straight up wall to top. Be vigilant of loose rock in places.

FA: Luke Baxter & Grant, 2022

Starts as for "Falling Rock". Follows the diagonal line across the rock, just above overhang past grotty jug, and continuing right, finishing up near "Waterfall Route". Be vigilant of loose rock in places.

FA: Luke Baxter & Grant, 2022

Starts 3m right of “Falling Rock”. Up blocky arête staying right of the dark water marks. Avoid bridging.

FA: Grant, 2022

Into the back of the slot right of “Waterfall Route”. Chimney and up

FA: Grant, 2022

Starts 1m right and perpendicular to “Waterfall Route”. Easily up textured wall to highest point.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 2019

FA: Grant, 2022

The arête 3m right of “Boater Boy”. Easily up the delicate corner. Finishes up high as for “Boater Boy”.

FA: Grant, 2022

The front of the narrow buttress at the back of Seth Zawn via the short overhang/niche. Slightly easier variations exist moving just left or right at the crux.

FFA: Karl Bromelow, 31 Dec 2016

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, Mandy Robertson & Karl Bromelow, 31 Dec 2016

FA: Karl Bromelow, Kai Seth Robertson & Amanda Robertson

FFA: Kai Robertson, 26 Nov 2016

A direct start and finish through Pigface tackling the centre of the overhanging bulge/ledge.

FFA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: Kai Seth Robertsonn, 10 Jun 2018

The line immediately right of and avoiding the bulge/ledge of New Balance.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 10 Jun 2018

Up “Spider Arête” for 1.5m then left. Up wall tending left and not using arête.

FA: Luke Baxter & Grant, 2022

The edge of a thin arête at the back of seth zawn, using the edge and north face.

FA: Phil Vaudrey, 24 Jun 2017

FFA: Phil Vaudrey, 24 Jun 2017

Starts 3m right and uphill from the arête through steep terrain. Delicately up past small missing block and spiders nest.

FA: Luke Baxter, 2022

The south wall of the Zawn.

The attractive narrow pillar by it's left arete, opposite New Balance.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson

FA: 24 Nov 2020

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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Tue 2 May
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