Ascents in Cantons d l'Est

Look for some good holds hidden inside the crack. Cams #0.75 - #5, with double #1 and #2. Was relieved to install the purple #5 on top after a few sketchy moves. #6 fits nowhere so don't bring it. No nuts but a #0.4 cam in the beginning. The definition of a sandbag for a 5.6.

Crux is in the beginning in the diagonal crack with a hard right hand. Looks like a slab for a few meters after with no opportunities for a protection. First protection is about 5m off the ground, and it's very easy to deck on this route. Past 5m, it feels like a 5.4.

Fairly easy, turn left after the crack at mid height. Standard rack with one #0.3, double #2, one #5, some nuts, and alpine carabiniers. Use long 120cm slings for the relay.

Fun and easy. In the lower part, stayed in the cracks to the right and which caused a fair amount of rope drag. I would stick to the crack from bottom to finish next time. At the mid point, you can head up right to a tougher 5.7R climb, or stick in the crack between the slab and the right wall for an easy finish.

Easy start, easy finish, with a defined crux in the center. Stick to the left of the rope at mid height for the 5.8. Didn't noticed much places to install protections: a trad climb would be very exposed to ground falls.

Did the first half as it is shared with K-Tre. First half contains a slightly underhanging crack which is clearly not 5.5.

Nice crack, but the harder part is in the first half, which is shared with a 5.5 (?!?). #0.2 to #4, doubled on #1. Second half has a giant flake spiking out of the wall which is fun to grab onto.

Certainement la plus "old school" 5.6 que j'ai fait! (Pour ne pas dire sandbag)

Plus beau que je pensais, belle sortie!

Trouver la bonne ligne à grimper c'était vraiment un quiz.

That shit is pretty runout! It's about 35m so rappel is possible with a 70m rope. Only 6 bolts + anchor on the entire climb. Delicate and fun climbing. Took a 8-10m fall on the first go. Stickclip is better since the fall could take you and your belayed straight to the lake below. Expect to deck if you blow it on the second clip because its 7m from the first.