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Description
A very nice spot, both for climbing and for chilling (under a tree or on the big rocks behind for a sunbath). This area includes the hardest routes of the crag (and the only Sport route too). The rock is solid, the belay positions are great, and the climbs are nice. Mostly face climbing, some crack climbing, and some small roofs. You will find the very classics Liberté and Conscience; you have to try them!
Access issues inherited from Lac Larouche
45.473637, -72.176758 Take route 222 from Sherbrooke (from route 249, if you come from Montreal and exit the highway right after Magog). Once you've passed the campground near Lac Brompton, you're almost there; Pass chemin Bombardier on your left, then go up a small hill. The entrance is on the other side of the hill; As soon as the road starts to go left, slow down, and look for a green "P" (parking) sign on the right. Seriously slow down before, as the entrance appears at the last moment, and it's a 90 degrees right turn on a dirt road.
Approach
From the trail (from the parking lot), reach the beginning of the crag. Walk pass the routes you'll find there on your left, until you reach a steep, small hill. Climb it; you're there.
Ethic inherited from Lac Larouche
The history of the site reveals that the access has been a bit precarious, so simply don't bolt anything without asking first. There is a strong reluctance to bolting from the climbers who opened the area ... it is probably meant to remain mostly a trad/toprope area, even though some routes would be better off bolted.
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Mon 1 May
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