Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Smoke Bluffs Ronin's Corner Central | ||||||||
5.10c | ★ Sky Dancing | 22m | Wed 5th May 2021 | |||||
made it through the fantastic lower slab and through the fun crack, but backed off of the upper slab after a few attempts.
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5.11b | ★★ Dreams of Passion | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th May 2004 | ||||
dreams of FRICTION!
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5.11b | ★★ Dreams of Passion | 22m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 31st Aug 2009 | ||||
hard slab. standing on one crystal. would be an impressive lead. Half was in shade, half sun. as i crossed into sun my shoes lost all grip.
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5.8 | ★ Magical Child | 22m | Mon 10th Jul 2006 | |||||
second time, layback only!
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5.8 | ★ Magical Child | 22m | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Aug 2014 | ||||
Another nice corner crack
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5.8 | ★ Magical Child | 22m | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||||
Ok. Sloppy footwork.
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5.8 | ★ Magical Child | 22m | Wed 29th Jun 2016 | |||||
Throwing the rope up on DofP
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5.8 | ★ Magical Child | 22m | Sun 23rd Jul 2017 | |||||
very consistent 5.8
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5.10c | ★ Desperado | 28m | Average | Sat 15th May 2004 | ||||
Strenuous to place pro, and pro a little trickier than it appears from below, still worthwhile.
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5.10c | ★ Desperado | 28m | Average | Thu 3rd Aug 2017 | ||||
Took a ground fall. All 3 cams pulled. WEAR A HELMET DUMBASS.
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5.10c | ★ Desperado | 28m | Average | Sat 3rd Jun 2017 | ||||
Made it, with a rest on gear partway. Should go though!
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5.10b | ★ Wobbler | 28m | ★ Good | Sat 15th May 2004 | ||||
if the pin is good then it's pretty safe, but well named
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5.10b | ★ Wobbler | 28m | ★ Good | Mon 31st Aug 2009 | ||||
fun bits. young mick belayed
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5.10c 5.10b | ★ Wobbler | 28m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th May 2015 | ||||
Guidebook has .10c and I'd agree (Ewbank 20). Has some very tricky moves past the manky piton. Worth coming to this area just for this route!
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5.10b | ★ Wobbler | 28m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 5th May 2017 | ||||
Hot, wet and thoroughly unpleasant today.
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5.10b | ★ Wobbler | 28m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Aug 2022 | ||||
A really cool route, with a boulder start and an interesting double shallow crack. Difficult to protect IMO.
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5.10b | ★ Wobbler | 28m | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||||
10c in guidebook, but easier than Desperado
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5.9 | ★★ Ridge Runner | 25m | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Aug 2014 | ||||
Frock in desperate at the grade. On edge was easier
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5.9 | ★★ Ridge Runner | 25m | Sun 23rd Jul 2017 | |||||
nice climb too long of a run to the first bolt to make it leadable for my taste, fun top rope
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5.9 | ★★ Ridge Runner | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2017 | ||||
Very good - airy climbing with a big runout to start.
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5.9 | ★★ Ridge Runner | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Aug 2021 | ||||
Runout and demands focus
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5.10d | ★ The in between | 20m | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Aug 2014 | ||||
More desperate smearing
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5.10b | ★★ French Toast | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 22nd Sep 2017 | ||||
Trad
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Smoke Bluffs Ronin's Corner Left Side | ||||||||
5.10d | OAM - Open Air Mission | 25m | Average | Sun 26th Aug 2018 | ||||
Interesting routefinding, but a tad overgrown!
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5.8 | Skyhook Logging | 28m | Sat 16th May 2015 | |||||
Rubbish.
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5.10a | ★ Free Spirit | 30m | ★ Good | Tue 1st Sep 1998 | ||||
Scary!!
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Smoke Bluffs Octopus' Garden | ||||||||
5.10a | ★★★ When Mulhern Was Young | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th May 2018 | ||||
super fun 10a...painfull foot jams at the start and super fun roof and offwitdh endind, leadable
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5.8 | ★★ Harry's Crack | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | ||||
I think this climb is fun,I was just way to freaked out to appreciate it! Definitely overprotected the main crack 😅
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5.9 | ★ Vegiemite | 25m | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||||
Awesome route! Fun crack, a fun move over the roof, you can avoid the wide section (offwidth?) If you use footholds at the outer edge of the crack. Maybe it will bey first 5.9 lead?
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5.8 | ★ Call Any Vegetable | 20m | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2017 | ||||
A #3 size crack, fortunately a slabby one
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5.8 | ★ Call Any Vegetable | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Aug 2022 | ||||
Génial
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5.7 | ★ Edible Panties | 20m | Sat 30th May 2009 | |||||
start is a little tricky. use right hand to stem
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5.7 | ★ Edible Panties | 20m | Thu 14th May 2015 | |||||
Ok
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5.9 5.7 | ★ Edible Panties - with Sara | 20m | ★ Good | Fri 28th Aug 2015 | ||||
If a climb starts with a 5.9 boulder move, is it not a 5.9 climb??
I'm regrading it.
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5.7 | ★ Edible Panties | 20m | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2017 | ||||
All over after the start
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5.7 | ★ Edible Panties - with BCMC | 20m | ★ Good | Thu 10th Aug 2017 | ||||
Fun start
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5.7 | ★ Edible Panties | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th May 2018 | ||||
Great 5.7 with 5.9 bouldery start with super solid gear...early on the season so needs some cleaning in the crack but otherwise amazing hand crack
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5.7 | ★ Edible Panties | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 24th May 2018 | ||||
5.9 start of the ground but with good pro throughout
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5.12a | ★★ Leonissisation | 25m, 10 | Sat 18th Jun 2016 | |||||
Absolutely stunning climbing. Probably the best slab route I've ever tried. Nice and safe too! Mega proj!
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5.12a | ★★ Leonissisation | 25m, 10 | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | |||||
Got on the slab project again. So freakin' rad! Can't wait to get on her for realsies!
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5.12a | ★★ Leonissisation | 25m, 10 | Wed 10th May 2017 | |||||
One-hang and after having forgotten the entire climb! Such nice features. I'm just stoked to be climbing this thing again!
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5.12a | ★★ Leonissisation | 25m, 10 | Fri 19th May 2017 | |||||
Gave it a burn today but no joy.
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5.12a | ★★ Leonissisation | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | Fri 28th Apr 2023 | ||||
I did better than I expected
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5.12a | ★★ Leonissisation | 25m, 10 | Fri 8th Mar 2024 | |||||
2 goes. Worth projecting this one again at some point in the future as I never sent it.
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
most excellent
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | Sat 30th May 2009 | |||||
don't like hand jamming
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade - with Mac | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Feb 2015 | ||||
Really nice crack, hard lead for me, not the easiest protection
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade - with Mac | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Feb 2015 | ||||
funner on top rope
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | Thu 14th May 2015 | |||||
Great line! I really loved the cruisage up the flake at the start.
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade - with Lachlan Pearson | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 22nd Jun 2015 | ||||
Another solid lead by Locky. The bulges are fun
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | Sat 18th Jun 2016 | |||||
Warm-up for the heinous slabbing to come!
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Jun 2017 | ||||
Survived the walk up on jelly legs, the climb seemed ok
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th May 2018 | ||||
lots of yellow red and green cams, solid gear
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Jul 2021 | ||||
Fantastic splitter crack. With Bec
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade - with Jess C | 20m | Fri 5th Aug 2022 | |||||
Bit stiff for a 5.8
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 9th Aug 2022 | ||||
Awesome, one tricky move where the crack gets thinner
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade - with Carleigh Burns | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 21st Aug 2023 | ||||
Lovely hand jams
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5.8 | ★★★ Octopus' Garden in the Shade - with Harley Mills | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 21st Aug 2023 | ||||
Not technically hard, but learning to jam is scary
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5.8 | ★★ Pipe Dream | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2021 | ||||
Some nice OW sections
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5.8 | ★ Root Canal | 20m | Thu 14th May 2015 | |||||
Worth doing for some enjoyable fist jams.
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5.8 | ★ Root Canal - with Sara | 20m | ★ Good | Fri 28th Aug 2015 | ||||
Ugh, I don't know if this is an offwidth or simply a fist crack, but I hated it. I also bled all over it. Sooo much harder than the 5.9 next to it. Or maybe I just can't climb.
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5.9 | ★ Root Canal | 20m | Tue 9th Aug 2022 | |||||
Awesome, cruxy, slightly offwithd
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5.9 | ★★ Unearthly Delights | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
great climb, feels burly
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5.9 | ★★ Unearthly Delights - with Sara | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Aug 2015 | ||||
Put up a toprope for this, such a neat climb, but I'd probably never lead it.
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5.9 | ★★ Unearthly Delights | 20m | Sat 18th Jun 2016 | |||||
Climbed in the rain.
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5.9 | ★★ Unearthly Delights | 20m | ★ Good | Wed 7th Jun 2017 | ||||
Giving the new shoes a burn. I need a new body though
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5.9 | ★★ Unearthly Delights | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Jul 2021 | ||||
With Bec
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5.11b | ★★ Electric Ball | 18m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Jul 2016 | ||||
extremely fun climb, although beyond my leading ability as the last few moves are very diff to protect
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5.11b | ★★ Electric Ball | 18m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th May 2018 | ||||
still a bit wet
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5.11b | ★★ Electric Ball | 18m | Tue 9th Aug 2022 | |||||
Super hard. Also, if you lead you kind of do a big part on free solo since you can't protect some crucial parts of the route. To finish, you have something like 5.10b slab, long, not protected and non protectable.
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5.11b | ★★ Electric Ball - with David...? | 18m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Aug 2022 | ||||
Great sequencing, and definitely beta intensive. Stoked to get it on gear one day!
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Smoke Bluffs Tunnel Rock | ||||||||
5.10b | ★★ Noonday Ridge | 25m, 4 | Mon 9th Nov 2020 | |||||
Underrated. Thought this was a lot of fun. A lot of variety
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5.10c | ★★ Three Shot Face | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | Wed 9th May 2018 | ||||
Very good route but needs a bit of traffic as some moss on the crux move
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5.10d 5.10c | ★★ Easy Skankin' (10c) | 23m, 2 | Fri 19th May 2017 | |||||
Quite tricky slabbing off the deck (failed on the onsight actually) then mellow.
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5.10c | ★★ Easy Skankin' (10c) - with D-Lit | 23m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | ||||
Tricky moves on thin holds at the start. Leads into nice crack climbing above.
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5.9 | ★★ Easy Skankin' | 23m | Fri 19th May 2017 | |||||
Downclimb.
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5.9 Easy | ★★ Easy Skankin' - with Neha | 23m | ★ Good | Fri 15th Sep 2023 | ||||
5.8 in the guidebook
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5.8 | ★★ The Constant Gardener | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Apr 2023 | ||||
Fell twice - first on the first move when I slipped on a wet hand crack and then again at the crux nearer the top when I couldn’t get my position right and my foot slipped
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Smoke Bluffs Skunk Hollow | ||||||||
5.11a | Meet the Clampetts | 12m, 2 | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | |||||
The fact that this route was soaking wet made it a total grovel show!
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Smoke Bluffs Funarama | ||||||||
5.5 | ★ Crouching Squirrel - with Sophia Krstin | 15m | Tue 12th Apr 2022 | |||||
Walk/downclimb off climbers left, no rap rings
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5.5 | ★ Crouching Squirrel - with Sophia Krstin | 15m | Tue 12th Apr 2022 | |||||
Walk/downclimb off climbers left, no rap rings
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5.10a | ★ Skidmark Slab - with Sophia Krstin | 15m, 4 | Tue 12th Apr 2022 | |||||
Walk/downclimb off climbers left, no rap rings
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5.4 | The French Maid - with Sophia Krstin | 12m | Don't Bother | Tue 12th Apr 2022 | ||||
Walk/downclimb off climbers left, no rap rings. Went early season, April, hadn't received enough traffic and was full of wet needles.
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5.9 | ★★ Funarama - with Deano | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Jul 2018 | ||||
Was hot in the sun, so Deano just moved the anchor across from Point Blank. Would be good to have a small wire for the last move.
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5.11b | Hands Off, Harry! | 16m, 6 | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | |||||
Tronsight. Nice climb!
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5.9 | ★★ Point Blank | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 24th Apr 2018 | ||||
fun crack with spicy slab move between cracks
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5.9 | ★★ Point Blank - with Deano | 18m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th Jul 2018 | ||||
Super fun mantle to get the horizontal, then rattly fingers with hand jam pods to top
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5.10d | ★ Sweet Songster | 20m, 3 | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | |||||
A good first .10d slab climb for the trainee slab master.
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5.10d | ★ Smallpox | 20m, 2 | Mon 20th Jun 2016 | |||||
Really nice climbing
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5.10d | ★ Smallpox | 20m, 2 | Tue 24th Apr 2018 | |||||
hard moves between first and second bolt, very well protected
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5.9 | ★★ First Class | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 24th Apr 2018 | ||||
Very good 5.9 with cruxy start and cruxy end, found hard to protect last move to chains but plenty of gear until that point
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5.9 | ★★ First Class | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th Sep 2019 | ||||
Little seepy down low but fun overall!
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5.9 | ★★ First Class - with Marketa Hajkova | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 5th Jul 2021 | ||||
Nice one 🤟
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5.9 | ★★ First Class - with Jess C | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th Aug 2022 | ||||
Only gets the grade because of the start, otherwise juggy the whole way up. Didn't even have to jam for a crack!
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5.10b | ★ Monkey Song | 22m, 2 | ★ Good | Tue 24th Apr 2018 | ||||
A bit tricky to protect before last bolt, lots of pine needles on easy slab start
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Smoke Bluffs Respiration Rock | ||||||||
5.10d | ★ Thorax Complaint | 20m | Tue 23rd Jun 2015 | |||||
Stiffest .10c in the known universe and difficult even for .10d which is what it probably is. But it's a fucking rock not a number.
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5.10d ~5.10c | ★ Thorax Complaint | 20m | ★ Good | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | ||||
5.10c in the guidebook.
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5.10a | ★★ Coronary Bypass | 17m | Mon 29th Oct 2018 | |||||
Pretty powerful!
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5.10a | ★★ Coronary Bypass | 17m | Don't Bother | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | ||||
One move wonder, not nice
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5.10a | ★★ Coronary Bypass - with Alex Battaglia | 17m | Thu 13th Jun 2024 | |||||
A 5.10a roof crack?! Hmmmm. Cool sequence establishing in the roof, then burly jams over the lip. Fell trying to turn it.
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