Ascents in Smoke Bluffs having Beta

That squishy start though

Fun stemming up and around the roof! Bring your small gear as there is some groundfall potential when passing the roof.

Pumpy! Wouldn't want to do this more than once in a day. Must go back for this one as a warmup for Spiderfly projecting.

Sent after burning off Spiderfly.

And a same day re-point for fitness laps.

And another re-point just for good measure.

Felt hard today. I mean, it is hard.

Hard start. Took a fall after the small finger bit.

Got it second go. One of the shorter pitches I’ve done but definitely packs a punch. Pumpy. 11a?

11a in guidebook

11a in the guidebook and Mountain Project. For someone like who is working my wap up to this grade, it definitely felt harder than a 10d. But for people who warm up on this route before getting on Spiderfly (12a), I can see why it might feel like a 10d.

3 attempts. First, aided a couple of sections. Second TR sent the route. 3rd lead attempt whipped about 2 moves from the anchor.

This climb is a technical test piece for off-vertical finger crack. Probably the hardest crack I've worked yet in Squamish. Late summer project.

I tried this a year ago with Andrew and it felt way off for both of us. This time I went back with Andrew (who boulders like a madman in that forest) and he went for it ground up, failed, then walked around and rigged the TR. We both gave it to burns each and got it down to one or two hangs. I think this will go for me this season and it will go for Andrew sooner.

I've been dialing the moves in after work quite a bit this week, also experimenting with solo TR setups for those partnerless days when I'm back in Oz. Burned off on lead today but I am witnessing progress. Shoe rubber seemed to be a limiting factor so I went and bought new kicks for my next attempt.

Couplea hangs with the new kicks. They did, indeed, make all the difference. I'm close.

Gave this two good lead burns today. A 2-hang and then a 1-hang, the latter being more of a "hey lets just fall off the 5.10 top out locks after you've pulled the cruxes and shaken out for a bit. I've never fallen off the top till today. Lawwwwl. Anyway, shit happens. Even though the sending is scarce, all the training value I'm getting from repeatedly climbing 5.12 finger cracks is turning me into a machine since a one-hang as far as your body is concerned is basically like finding a mid-route no hands rest. So it's nice to know that I'm getting better!

Oh fuck yer bud (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-glHAzXi_M). My third trad 25. And the same week to boot! Best climb in the Bluffs.

Sustained and beautiful rock. Low angle face crystal picking yikes!

Absolutely mint slab action. Yet another great slab project.

Should have led this today after dialing in all the moves but it began raining a smidge.

Climbing with Eleanor and getting the rope up on the slab.

Stout.

Mock Lead

with Grand & Cara

Awesome, continuous hand, fingers and feet jams!

So freaking fun!! I didn't know my feet could stick to those crystals!

Can confirm this thing is hard. Has less to do with the dexterity of your digits and more to do with recyclability of your rubber. I don't think I can afford to project this one...

Heinously horribly hard. Would like to get this one day tho

short and easy for grade

So fun until the slab. Took a mini whip there

Balancey. I’ll get that top move next time.

Had a second chance made it up with advice of friends Felt great! Witnessed by Clayton Willms and Greg Emery

Witnessed - Greg Emery, Craig Marsh.

A fun climb with a small roof. Witnessed - Greg Emery, Craig Marsh.

Top-rope anchor course. Witnessed - Greg Emery.

Second ascent for top-rope anchor course. Witnessed - Greg Emery.

Nice intro to crack climbing technique for me!

Witnessed - Greg Emery, Craig Marsh.

fun climb

previously 2nded

My favourite! Almost like a chimney

Ok route, fun bulge but too short.

First Squamish crack!!

First climb in 15 years powered up, didn't think about what I was doing.

5.8, Clean

Great fun, but all over too quick

Our local crag, about 400m walk