The Malamute Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. The Malamute 66 routes in Crag

1 3 2 10 4 6 5 7

1 The Cage 2 Jacob's Wall 3 Quagmire Area 4 Starr Wall 5 Stooges Slab 6 Grub Street 7 Overly Hanging Out 10 Closed Routes

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.682883, -123.154398

access issues

All climbs on the Malamute must be treated as Rap in, Climb out. This is due to Canadian Nationals (CN) rail line right of way at the base of the cliff. There have been quite a few incidents involving Search and Rescue, and rather embarrassingly, each time CN has contacted to shut down the rail line while the rescue is underway.

ALL CLIMBS THAT START WITHIN 8 METERS OF THE TRACK ARE CLOSED.

1.1. The Cage 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.683451, -123.155410

description

The top far North part of the Malamute.

1.2. Jacob's Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.682897, -123.155823

description

Jacob's Wall

1.3. Quagmire Area 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.683081, -123.156187

description

The large face in the central part of the Malamute, many excellent crack climbs can be found here.

access issues

From the Squamish Access Society website: District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”

From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.

approach

The area can be accessed by either rappeling down The Clearing on the right side, or Quagmire Crack dividing the smooth wall on the left

1.4. Starr Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.682228, -123.156017

1.5. Stooges Slab 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.681946, -123.156028

1.6. Grub Street 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.682039, -123.156367

summary

The area under Stooges Slab, Stating below the first ledge and continuing to the ground.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Old Style Starts at the pond where planks and bolted belay platform exist. 100 m below stooges slabs. Right-facing corner. Part of the Grub Street Linkup	5.9	Trad 30m
2		★★★ Agonal a 3-pitch dyke traverse starting at the bottom of Old Style and continuing right across a quartz dyke.	5.11c	Trad 61m, 3
3		★★ Grub Street The tips crack starting to the right of cider crack and ending below sodbuster FFA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight, 1978 FA: Robin Barley & Peter Croft, 1978	5.11a	Trad 30m, 2
4		★★ Cider crack Starts one ledge up from train tracks, above top of Old Style, sharing same ledge system as Grub st direct and cling peaches start. Arching crack under roof to left then through roof into finger crack. Can continue up Grub St or move right to Sodbusters	5.10a	Trad 25m
5		★★★ Cling Peaches	5.10c	Trad 30m
6		★★ Sodbuster Pitch 3 of The Grub Street Complex. From the middle set of anchors on Midway Ledge. Climb a crack to a rest, then head left past bolts to a balancey thin crack. Often confused with Rosebud, which continues rightward after the first crack of Sodbuster.	5.10b	Mixed trad 25m, 3
7		★★ Rosebud The end of the original 1978 ascent of the Grub Street complex. Starting from Midway Ledge climb Sodbuster, but instead of breaking out left up the slab, continue along the crack until its end, then break up the slab. to the anchors below Stooges Slab (10b) Climb the rightmost line on Stooges Slab to finish (5.8) FA: Peter Croft, Tami Knight & R. Barley, 1978	5.10b	Trad 2

1.7. Overly Hanging Out 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.681678, -123.156361

description

This small crag is on the far southern end of the Malamute. The routes start on a small ledge called "Meares island".

approach

Hike down past Stooges Slab to find a rap station on top of a smooth slab. Rappel down and be careful not to go to far and end up on the ground.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Overly Hanging Out	5.11b 5.11-	Mixed trad 55m, 3, 3
2		Underly Hanging out	5.10c	Trad
3		Loggers are People Too	5.10d	Trad

1.8. rest of Upper Malamute 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.9. Closed Routes 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.682364, -123.156008

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
5.6		★	No Need But a Little Parsley	Trad 8m		1.2. Jacob's Wall
5.7		★	Pinky Locks	Trad 15m		1.1. The Cage
5.8		★	Jacob's Other Ladder	Trad 27m		1.2. Jacob's Wall
		★	With Friends Like That Who Needs Enemies	Trad 9m		1.2. Jacob's Wall
			Moe	Sport 15m		1.5. Stooges Slab
		★	Rosebud	Trad 18m, 2		1.5. Stooges Slab
			With Friends Like That, Who Needs Enemas	Unknown 10m		1.8. rest of Upper Malamute
5.9		★★	Gonch Pull	Unknown 22m		1.4. Starr Wall
		★★★	High Mountain Woody	Trad 45m		1.4. Starr Wall
		★★★	High Mountain Woody (alternative)	Trad 50m		1.4. Starr Wall
		★★	Stefanie's Tears	Trad 45m		1.4. Starr Wall
		★	Under the Mercy	Trad 20m		1.4. Starr Wall
		★	Curly	Sport 18m, 5		1.5. Stooges Slab
		★	Larry	Sport 18m, 5		1.5. Stooges Slab
		★★	Old Style	Trad 30m		1.6. Grub Street
		★	Franz's Son	Unknown 10m		1.8. rest of Upper Malamute
		★★★	Brown Ale	Unknown		1.9. Closed Routes
5.10a		★	Pacing the Cage	Sport 12m		1.1. The Cage
		★★	Sparky	Sport 14m		1.1. The Cage
		★	I Love the Smell of Nuprin in the Mornin	Trad 9m		1.2. Jacob's Wall
		★	Ya Gonna Do Something Or Just Stand There And Bleed?	Sport 10m		1.2. Jacob's Wall
		★★	Canadian Compromise	Trad 27m		1.3. Quagmire Area
		★★	Paul's Crack	Trad 26m		1.4. Starr Wall
		★★	Cider crack	Trad 25m		1.6. Grub Street
		★	I Love The Smell Of Nuprin In The Morning	Unknown 10m		1.8. rest of Upper Malamute
		★	Exhitbition Flake	Unknown		1.9. Closed Routes
5.10b		★	Stone Cold	Sport 22m, 7		1.2. Jacob's Wall
		★	Id	Trad		1.3. Quagmire Area
			Lemming Condition	Unknown 18m		1.4. Starr Wall
		★★★	Slap and Tickle	Trad 50m		1.4. Starr Wall
		★★	Rosebud	Trad 2		1.6. Grub Street
		★★	Sodbuster	Mixed trad 25m, 3		1.6. Grub Street
		★	The Shallow End	Unknown 10m		1.8. rest of Upper Malamute
		★★★	Caboose	Trad 25m		1.9. Closed Routes
		★★★	Hand Jive	Trad 20m		1.9. Closed Routes
		★	The Big Eve	Unknown		1.9. Closed Routes
5.10c		★★	Consolation	Unknown 20m, 5		1.2. Jacob's Wall
		★	Train Boy	Unknown 18m		1.2. Jacob's Wall
		★★	Quagmire crack	Trad 40m		1.3. Quagmire Area
		★★★	Cling Peaches	Trad 30m		1.6. Grub Street
			Underly Hanging out	Trad		1.7. Overly Hanging Out
5.10d		★★	Chasing Rainbows	Mixed trad 30m, 4		1.1. The Cage
		★	NPCC	Unknown 10m		1.2. Jacob's Wall
		★	Whip Cream Boy	Unknown 18m		1.2. Jacob's Wall
		★	Sodfancier's Delight	Trad 61m, 2		1.3. Quagmire Area
			Loggers are People Too	Trad		1.7. Overly Hanging Out
		★★	Besot And Flushed	Unknown 35m		1.8. rest of Upper Malamute
		★	Featureless Face	Unknown 12m		1.8. rest of Upper Malamute
		★★★	Crescent Crack	Trad 28m		1.9. Closed Routes
5.11a		★★	Pooshwityorfout	Unknown 20m		1.2. Jacob's Wall
		★★★	Neighbourhood Bully	Unknown 25m		1.4. Starr Wall
		★★	Grub Street	Trad 30m, 2		1.6. Grub Street
		★★★	Penguins in Bondage	Trad 15m		1.9. Closed Routes
			To Gibly Grab	Unknown 15m		1.9. Closed Routes
5.11b		★★★	Overly Hanging Out	Mixed trad 55m, 3, 3		1.7. Overly Hanging Out
		★★★	Clean Crack	Trad 25m		1.9. Closed Routes
5.11b A0		★★	Renaissance Man	Unknown 4		1.3. Quagmire Area
5.11c		★★★	Agonal	Trad 61m, 3		1.6. Grub Street
		★	Shockload	Unknown 10m		1.8. rest of Upper Malamute
5.11d		★★★	Science Friction	Unknown 18m		1.4. Starr Wall
5.12a			Crack Be Nimble	Unknown		1.8. rest of Upper Malamute
		★★	Remembrance Day	Unknown 8m		1.8. rest of Upper Malamute
5.12b		★★★	Arm Yourself	Unknown 18m		1.1. The Cage
		★★★	Fungus Razor	Trad 30m		1.3. Quagmire Area
5.14a			Travis Foster	Sport		1. The Malamute
?		★★	Id, The Wizard of	Trad 30m		1.3. Quagmire Area