Showing all 36 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Los Dinamos | ||||||
Segundo Dinamo El perro muerto | ||||||
5.10b/c | ★★ Solovino - with Esau, Alex Esau's Friend | 11m | Average | |||
Cleaning the route for Esau and Alex. Pretty average route on not that great rock, but fun outing!
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Los Dinamos | ||||||
Primer Dinamo | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Aves de rapiña - with Esau | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Non-trivial movement near the start, as the left hand is on sidepulls and your right is pulling the wrong way on a crack. Incites pensiveness. Then the second half are straightforward moves on really good holds through the overhang. Really fun!
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5.9 | ★ Pancho en vacaciones - with Esau | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough for 5.9! Easiest if done without resting at all, as there is no stance that won't eventually tire you. Interesting movement through good holds and a sloping crack.
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Pilar | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Niño Chillón - with Esau | 7m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Set this for my cousin. Nice flowy climbing on good holds!
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Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Jilotepec | ||||||
Sal de mí | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Estrella de Pétalos - with Esau | 21m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tensiony movement on good crimps and edges. Pumpy but beautiful and fun. Going past the trees and seeing the beautiful sunset with light drops of rain falling on us was amazing! Satisfied with the OS.
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5.7 | ★ Unknown - with Esau | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty straightforward, well-protected climb on positive terrain and good holds. Good for a beginning leader!
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.10 ~5.10+ | ★★ Insecto Palo - with Cousins | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great warm-up for other routes. Felt like 5.11- because of endurance, but maybe I have none.
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Sun 7th Jun 2015 - La UNAM | ||||||
La Escuelita | ||||||
5.11b 5.10d | ★★★ Cíclope (Ciclope) - with Esau, Juan, Pablo, Marisol, Mariana | 8m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
They told me this was a 5.10... Didn't feel like it at all! Really fun, hard with all the humidity.
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5.10a | ★★ Desconocido 3 - with Esau, Juan, Pablo, Marisol, Mariana | 9m | ||||
Easy techy climb.
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Sat 16th May 2015 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Variant Fructaliser - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Esau, JuanMa | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent line that starts with a small traverse to a roof with compression on a big tufa, super cool tea-drinking rest, after which comes a megaclassic traverse on good holds. Reminded me of QLD climbing, not because of the style, but because of the hot weather! Long time since I wore shorts on a climb for sure. El Chonta was insectville this weekend.
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Sun 8th Mar 2015 - Peña de Bernal | ||||||
Rancho Chichi'Dho El Capitan Calzon El Capitan Calzon | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ La Lechuga - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Techfest. These routes all feel harder than 5.9, but they're hella enjoyable.
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5.9 | ★★ Your Sister - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another sandbag, but an enjoyable one.
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5.9 | ★★ Time to Fly - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Aaand another sandbag.
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5.9 | ★★ Free your Spirit - with Maria Jose Tamayo, Juan, Mariana | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Man, it's not great to sandbag the easiest routes in this sector, especially considering there are so many people bringing beginners with no technique here!
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Tue 17th Dec 2013 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Mala Fama (primer largo) - with Igor | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A mega proud onsight! Since there were no draws on this, route-finding was a pump factor for sure, on this maze of stalactites and tufas! Very pumpy and bouldery at spots, but the holds are all good! Last send of the Mexico 2013/2014 trip? Felt awesome! Great rests...
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Mon 16th Dec 2013 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Seres Inorganicos - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
You know what? This here is my favorite climb EVER so far. The movement is just so fun, it's about the only climb I enjoyed a lot repeating, even though I typically never do.
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5.12b | ★★★ Mantis - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 35m, 15 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Absolutely, positively, outstanding route. It's like every route I try here is better than the previous one. I got lucky and hit everything right on this one and got one of my best OS's! Very sweet sequences through the roof cruxes XD
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Sun 15th Dec 2013 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.11b | ★★★ El Aliado - with Maria, Kimberley, Jin, Steve, and Igor | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing through the tufas. First Chonta climb this trip! A great way to start! Sure beats the left of the cave, that's for sure. This became Maria's, Kimberley's, Jin's, and Steve's working project while there.
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Thu 12th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Wonder Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mr. Hanky - with Maria, Steve, and Igor | 27m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice, sometimes runout climbing. Better as a warm-up for a climber for whom 5.8 is not that hard, otherwise psychological! Lots of "faithy" reaches and steps on not-that-great footholds
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Wed 11th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Cactus Pile - with Maria and Steve | 94m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only did the first two pitches today, Steve's first multi-pitch! Party was Maria, Steve, and myself. Very enjoyable first pitch which was lead by Maria and I lead the second, which felt scary, thin, runout and hard! Definitely feels like more than 10b (guide says 5.10?), and by the end, we all were feeling a bit wrecked, Steve's feet hurt, Maria had a migraine, and I felt like I was coming down with something... All in all, pretty good!
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Mon 9th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
The Spires North Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Crack Test Dummies - with Maria and Kimberley | 75m | ★ Good | |||
In one word: SCARY! Very runout and overgrown on the first pitch (easy), and very off-widthy and also very runout on the second. We wanted to get to the top of the spires, but we had to bail after I got to the top of the second (lead both), as it was getting dark and Maria had the pack on which would've made the offwidth pretty hard for her. Lots of plantlife with lots of thorns, and a tricky rap down. One to come back to go to the top!
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Mon 9th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
5.9 5.11+ | ★★ La Vaca - with Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only did the first pitch. Very enjoyable climbing with fun moves for a slab. As usual, technical on the feet, typical of limestone!
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5.8 | ★★ Abuelito Dime Tu - with Maria, Igor, Steve, Kimberley and Jin | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very very nice hueco features! Also, some funky body positioning makes for very enjoyable climbing. A must-do of this wall
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Sun 8th Dec 2013 - El Potrero Chico | ||||||
Lower Sense of Religion | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Motavation - with Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
After trying Team Hilti, Opi recommended us to try this route, and a good recommendation it was! After some bulgy-mantly climbing you get to a clean, gently overhanging pocketed face with excellent pumpy cross over and matching moves all the way to the anchor. Proud OS for sure! Guide says 10d, but feels more like a hard 21, so probably 11a as it says here.
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5.10d | ★★ Team Hilti - with Maria, Igor, Jin and Kimberley | 33m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The day before, tried doing a climb in zero temps and a cloud over Potrero! Everything was wet and cold, on the wrong wall and I went to some anchors to clean via three different climbs, scary! We bailed and Maria arrived after then we went to El Buho and then to Monterrey to get some very nice Norteno BBQ and shopping. Later that night Jin and Kimberley arrived Next day it cleared up and we went here, and this tricky, thin-in the feet slab was our warm-up, felt like a good OS to me
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Sat 12th Jan 2013 - Peña de Bernal | ||||||
La Peña (single & multipitch) South Wall (Bernalina Wall) | ||||||
5.8 5.9 | ★★★ La Bernalina - with Barry and Webb | 220m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Lead pitches 1, 3, 5, 6. A really EPIC journey that started at 11 am and finished at about 8-9 pm! Froze 'cause I decided it was going to be a quickie in the sun and did it all shirtless... On the first belay station Webb was kind enough to embrace me between his legs, thus also solving the space issue for those anchors! VERY run out, so if you're doing this, you should be confident enough at the grade that you could be soloing it! I fell asleep at the top of pitch 6, really really EPIC!!!!
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Fri 11th Jan 2013 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Pilar | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Tin-Tán (Tin-Tan) - with Maria and "the gang" | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Meh...
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Fri 11th Jan 2013 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Circo | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Titerotes - with Maria and "the gang" | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great solid cobbly crimpness! Awesome climbs and views
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Thu 10th Jan 2013 - Jilotepec | ||||||
Comité de Bienvenida | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Nancy - with Maria and "the gang" | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good I guess...
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Thu 10th Jan 2013 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Huevo Ay Nanita | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ El Hombre del Costal - with Maria, Jin, Miguel, Paul, Webb, Carina, Barry, Steve, and Loz | 17m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great, chilly, pumpy climbing at altitude, happy about this OS
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Wed 9th Jan 2013 - El Chico | ||||||
Las Ventanas La Botella | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ruta Noreste - with Maria and "the gang" | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great, great climbing, in a great, great location, with phenomenal views
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Thu 3rd Jan 2013 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Katman (Unknown name 1) - with "the gang" | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great scary start climbing on quality limestone! First climb in el Chonta!!!
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Fri 13th Jan 2012 - Jilotepec | ||||||
El Poste | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ A Prueba de Tontos | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Fri 13th Jan 2012 - Jilotepec | ||||||
Comité de Bienvenida | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ La Prima de Nancy | 14m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 12th Jan 2012 - La UNAM | ||||||
La Escuelita | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ El Techito | 8m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 6th Jan 2012 - La UNAM | ||||||
La Escuelita | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Luna Llena | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good |
Showing all 36 ascents.